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Posts from — October 2009

Getting to Know Your Shetland Sheepdog

Getting to know your dog starts by getting to know its breed, and that includes getting a better idea about its appearance, personality, and health requirements. Here’s what you need to know about Shetland Sheepdogs:

Also known as the “Sheltie,” the Shetland Sheepdog originally began life as a small herding dog for Shetland Island terrain. When you first look at this breed, you will notice a strong resemblance with the Collie although the Shetland Sheepdog is smaller. While the exact origin of this breed remains unknown, we do know that somewhere off the coast of Scotland the dog was bred down to what we know it to be today.

To give you an idea of the makeup of the Shetland Sheepdog, you have breeding from the Yakki, Icelandic Sheepdog, and Border Collie. Then, it is believed that in the 19th century, this breed could have been crossbred with other dogs to include the Prince Charles Spaniel, Pomeranian, and perhaps even the King Charles Spaniel. However, to add even more question to the mix is that in the early part of the 20th century, the coat of the Shetland Sheepdog came out brindle, which would indicate two other breeds to include the Corgi and Terrier.

What we do know is that the American Kennel Club first recognized the Shetland Sheepdog in 1911, which resulted from the first registration of a dog named Lord Scott. Although the Shetland Sheepdog was once a prominent breed in Shetland, today you rarely see it. Instead, the Border Collie has taken its place in importance and use.

This breed has an amazing ability to compete. As an agile dog, they are outstanding when it comes to showmanship, obedience, herding, tracking, and so on. Therefore, using the Shetland Sheepdog in competitions or show is a satisfying decision.

Physical Appearance

The Sheltie has a graceful and sweet appearance. As far as the breed’s coat, there is a double coat with the topcoat being long and straight and the undercoat being short and furry. In fact, the topcoat is water-repellant while the undercoat is extremely thick. To keep tangles at bay, it is important that the Shetland Sheepdog be brushed and groomed on a regular basis. Otherwise, you could be dealing with deeply matted hair in places such as the hind legs, under the elbows, and even behind the ears.

If you want to show your Sheltie through the American Kennel Club, there is a definite height requirement. For instance, the male and female dog would need to be between 13 and 16 inches at the withers. For weight, most males will fall somewhere around 14 to 18 pounds with the females averaging 12 to 16 pounds. Another requirement includes ears that are tipped or just slightly bent. Colors of this breed also vary to include:

Sable (light gold to mahogany)
Tri-color (white, black, and tan)
Blue Merle (gray, black, white, and tan)
Bi-blues (gray, black, and some white)
Merle (not often seen in show but acceptable)
Double Merle (brings risk of blindness and deafness)

Temperament and Personality

When looking for a good family dog and companion, the Sheltie is a great option to consider. This particular breed is exceptionally bright, loyal, affectionate, and loving. The one thing you need to be aware of is that the Sheltie can be wary of strangers. Socializing this breed at a young age can help overcome some of those types of unwanted behaviors. The Shetland Sheepdog is great with adults but wait until you see them with children. They are patient, protective, and extremely gentle even with the smallest of child. This breed also works well with other animals.

Some people believe that the Shetland Sheepdog barks too much and while some can be a little on the yappy side, but with proper training, this trait can be overcome. With most breeds, you would find either the male or female having a slightly better edge over the other. However, with the Sheltie, male and female are equally great dogs. When choosing this breed, just make sure you have adequate time for training and playing, as well as room for running around.

Health

Unfortunately, the Shetland Sheepdog is prone to certain health problems such as Epilepsy, Ophthalmologist, Hypothyroidism, and various types of skin allergies. As far as the eyes, this particular breed can inherit two problems. The first is called Sheltie Eye Syndrome or SES, which affects all three layers of the eye, resulting in a blind spot to full blindness. For this, special testing can be performed while a puppy to determine if the defect exists. The second is called Progressive Retinal Atrophy or PRA. In this case, the dog would begin to experience problems with night vision, which would eventually lead to daytime problems and then blindness.

Dermatomyositis is another health risk associated specific to the Sheltie. Unfortunately, this problem is often not diagnosed until after six months or is even misdiagnosed. What happens is that Dermatomyositis starts as Alopecia on the top of the head, which means losing hair. Sometimes, the problem can affect the dog’s tail as well. Sadly, while this appears as a skin problem, it is actually an autonomic nervous system disease, eventually leading to the animal being humanely euthanized.

Other possibilities although not as common, include Von Willebrand Disease, a hereditary defect, and Hypothyroidism, a condition in which the thyroid is not functioning as it should. Typically, good grooming, diet, and exercise will go a long way in keeping the Shetland Sheepdog healthy.

Daniel Stevens is the renowned dog trainer and author of SitStayFetch: Dog Training To Stop Your Dog’s Behavior Problems, one of the leading dog training guides on the market today selling over 21,000 copies (and counting). He currently heads the Kingdom of Pets ( kingdomofpets.com kingdomofpets.com) dog training team. See kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/dogbreeds/shetland-sheepdog.php kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/dogbreeds/shetland-sheepdog.php for more on dog breeds.


October 31, 2009   No Comments

Puppy Obedience Training – How to Start Lilly’s Day

A healthy routine is a good idea right from the day you are bringing new puppy home. You want Lilly on the right track with puppy obedience training from the start. It is best for Lilly to have each day go something like this …

You see, puppies have short attention spans. They are easily distracted and bored. However, their little minds are like sponges which soak in all they can. Your Lilly is just as eager as all the sponges out there. Be patient with her.

Let’s start. Take Lilly outside first thing in the morning. Have her go to the bathroom, and bring her right back in for a five minute training session.

Do not yell at Lilly if she stands up when you told her to stay. She is allowed to make a mistake. Bring her back to the spot and do it over. Mix up the commands and put an appropriate challenge with them to keep Lilly interested.

For example, when you tell Lilly to stay, change your place a bit. Do not change hers for the puppy training session. Use a different place for your own position each time. Move yourself back and fourth, away, in back of her, to the side . . . Be creative, but do not overwhelm her.

If Lilly has clearly had enough, end her puppy obedience training session with her obeying a command. You always want to end on a positive note. She will remember her pack position at the time you stopped — her submissive and compliant mode or her willfulness in doing what she wanted to do. She will come back to that the next time you start dog obedience training, so this does matter — and matters a lot! Do not cater to her or stop because she wants to stop.

After the puppy obedience training session, take Lilly outside and play with her for an equal amount of time that she worked. You may take off her leash for that time, but be sure the time is equal so Lilly sees that the leash being off does not mean for her to take off. As in raising your child, freedom must be given in doses.

After play, bring Lilly back inside and let her cool off for at least ten minutes. Only then give her water. Make Lilly wait a little bit before you let her eat, and feed her a piece or two out of your hand. This avoids dog food aggression and dog possessive behavior.

Work with Lilly four times a day, and you will be astounded at how quickly she masters the commands. (Some trainers suggest six times a day, but that is rarely necessary and is too much for many puppies and dogs.)

Puppy Training Tip: Never forget the playtime. It is special bonding time for you and her. It is natural for her. Even the oldest members of the wolf pack play with one another.

Keeping Lilly on a routine like this will bring you one awesome dog. By the time she is four months old, remember to walk her for forty five minutes each morning on a leash for her to expend excess energy and to be mentally and physically challenged. A dog who receives no challenge or just one of them is likely to have some bad dog behavior problems.

GET HELP from Rena Murray at the


October 31, 2009   No Comments

Dog Training To Solve Your Dog’s Problems With Biting Clothing

Suppose your dog loves to play and his playing consists of baring his teeth and growling, and biting at clothing. He has great time biting clothing while evading the person he is playing with.

Below are the techniques you can try to help solve your dog’s biting problems.

Technique No. 1
Take the focus away from your hands when you pet him. Do this by offering him a chew bone or similar when you go to pet him. Pet him behind the ears with one hand while offering the treat with the other. Pet him for short periods of time at the beginning as you do not want to overexcite him. This technique will help him form a positive association with petting.

Technique No. 2
Try wearing gloves coated with a foul tasting substance. You should be able to buy some specific dog “aversion” substances from your vet or pet store. The drawback with this method is that you must have the gloves on every time he tries to bite and he may form the negative association with the gloves rather than the hands.

Technique No. 3
If you are sure that he won’t bite you too hard then you can discourage the biting by loosely holding your dog’s lower jaw between your thumb and forefinger after he has taken your hand in him mouth. Don’t hurt him by squeezing too hard, just gently hang on so that wherever him mouth goes your hand goes to. Hopefully this will quickly become tiresome for him and he will try to pull away. After ten seconds of him trying to pull away, release his jaw and continue to offer your hand. If he licks it or ignores it then praise him immediately. If he tries to bite your hand again then repeat the exercise.

Technique No. 4
It is important to teach your dog that biting turns off any social interaction and attention that you may be giving him. When he nips you, look him in the eye and yell “Ouch” or “Arghh”, then ignore him. Leave him until he has calmed down.

General stuff
Make sure that you do not slap or hit your dog in the face for nipping as this action is almost guaranteed to backfire. He may think that you are playing and get more excited, he might respond in a defensive manner or he may just become afraid of you.

sitsstayfetch.blogspot.com/2007/04/sitstayfetch-consultation.html sitsstayfetch.blogspot.com/2007/04/sitstayfetch-consultation.html

Best regards,

Travis Liu


October 31, 2009   No Comments

What You Can Do About Your Dog’s Constant Scratching

Is your dog’s constant scratching driving him–and you–crazy? If your dog is continually licking, scratching, and gnawing at himself, dry skin may be the reason. But what causes dry, flaky skin in dogs? There can be a number of factors, including inadequate diet, allergies, and more. It may take a little detective work to figure out the root cause of your dog’s itchy skin, but once you find it, you’ll find the solution as well.

Start by Looking at Your Dog’s Diet

If you are feeding your dog a generic dog food or supermarket brand, he may not be getting enough nutrients and essential fatty acids to help keep his coat shiny and healthy. Many store brands don’t contain the optimum balance of protein, vitamins, minerals, and omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids which help keep your dog’s skin soft, moist, and healthy and his coat shiny.

Experiment with one of the many premium brand or ultra premium dog food brands available at pet supply stores. Premium dog foods usually contain supplements such as flax seed, salmon oil, or other fish oils, which contain essential fatty acids. These extra nutrients will benefit your dog’s skin and coat and relieve dry, itchy skin. Better dog foods are also made from whole product, such as chicken, turkey, and lamb, and do not contain by-products or fillers like the cheaper foods do. Some dogs are allergic to corn, soy, wheat and eggs. If you suspect food allergies look for a dog food without these ingredients.

Essential Fatty Acid Supplements

To give your dog an essential fatty acid boost, try giving him a vitamin- and fatty acid-rich supplement such as Linatone or Lipaderm. You can even put a regular flax seed oil, salmon oil or other fish oil capsule or liquid in his food. Many people find that this simple addition to their dog’s diet helps reduce shedding, improve a dull coat, and relieve scratchy, flaky dry skin. It has certainly helped my dog’s itchy skin.

Common Canine Allergies

In addition to food allergies, dust mites, fleas, and flea bites are common reasons for constant scratching. Typical signs of allergies include scratching, licking his paws, rubbing his face, or watery eyes. If your dog is allergic to dust mites, vets suggest putting a plastic cover over your dog’s bed, which will keep mites from getting in the bed. Wash your dog’s bed cover frequently in very hot water. Don’t let your dog on upholstered furniture and avoid letting him play with stuffed animals. Vacuum very frequently to keep the dust bunnies away.

If your dog is scratching miserably, check him for fleas. Some dogs are allergic to fleas and flea bites, leading, to extremely itchy, inflamed skin. Use a flea control product on him. There are several once-a-month topical flea control medications that work very well. Avoid flea shampoos, which can be very drying and can exacerbate dry skin and make the itching worse.

Avoiding the allergens is the first line of defense. But if your dog needs relief from scratching now, try giving him a bath with a gentle, soothing shampoo liked oatmeal shampoo. Hydrocortisone spray or shampoo may also help to relieve itching. If your pet doesn’t improve soon, check with your vet to see if your dog may have another underlying condition.

Valerie Goettsch is webmaster of my-favorite-dog.com My Favorite Dog featuring articles and information on my-favorite-dog.com/dog-health.htm canine health, dog allergies, pet supplies, puppy training, and more.


October 31, 2009   No Comments

The Pharaoh Hound, National Dog Of Malta

Many people believe that the Pharaoh Hound is called by that name because it is exclusively found in Egyptian history, but this is not in fact the case. The Pharaoh Hound was originally bred in Malta 3000 years before Christ and transported to Egypt by Phoenician tradesmen. In Malta the dog was used for hunting rabbits and only the most successful were used in the breeding program. It is still being used for its original purpose in its country of origin and in 1979 the breed was declared to be the “National Dog of Malta”. The Egyptians favored this breed for hunting gazelle.

Because it was selectively “culled” for breeding and only the hardiest and most successful hunters were used, the Pharaoh Hound is exceptionally healthy. There has not been a great deal of overbreeding which is also a great help in maintaining the health of the population of any dog breed.

The Pharaoh Hound may appear to be somewhat aloof because it is such an has such an elegant appearance. However unlike most of the sight hounds, the Pharaoh is demonstrative and affectionate and bonds closely with people, preferring to be with them in the household. Generally this is a quiet dog and makes a good companion for all ages of people. It is not as “biddable” as other breeds because of its instinctive desire to hunt but this is overcome if the hound is trained early in life to walk on a leash and behave appropriately when greeting people. Like most of the sight hounds, this is a dog bred for speed and endurance, with a lean , deep chested appearance and with long legs for bounding after prey. Since it is from the desert, it will suffer from the cold if not protected in the winter.

The Pharaoh’s appearance is marked by a pair of erect and very large ears which make it appear very attentive and amber eyes of a liquid gold color which give this dog a unique and rather haughty expression. The coat is always a rich tan or chestnut and may not deviate from this color. There can be a small snippet of white on the tail, the chest and the toes and on the face. No other white is permitted. The coat is sleek, very short and quite smooth. When the dog is in motion at a full gallop the tail should be held out behind it in a gentle upward curve.

The dog has a keen instinct to give chase and is quite adaptable to the sport of lure coursing, which has become a favorite pastime in the United States and Great Britain for folks who own sight hounds (many of whom are termed “coursing dogs” for their habit of running long distances and bringing down prey on the run.) Lure coursing is a sport in which a false “rabbit” of cloth or fur is attached to an electronic pulley arrangement so that it goes with great speed along the ground in a course laid out in a triangular shape. Lure Coursing is an event that is really great fun to see, as the dogs give a speedy chase and the exhibitors and spectators alike cheer them on.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to


October 30, 2009   No Comments

Home Made Dog Treats Recpies

Dogs are considered mans best friend. Sometimes we love our dogs
better than the people around us. Having home made dog treats recpies
on hand show others and your dog how much you love him, and just
how much a part of the family they really are. Making these home made
dog treats can be a fun family activity. Your children will get a kick out
of making these home made dog treats for their beloved pet. It is a great
way for them to bond together, and an excellent way to get the kids
involved while showing your dog that everyone in the family cares.

A good way to reward your dog of good behavior is by making them
treats derived from home made dog treats recpies. There are many easy
recipes available to make these dog treats. The types and flavors of these
home made dog treats can seem endless. Flavors range from chicken
flavored treats to chicken and rice treats to beef treat, just to name a few.

Your dog will be sure to love these treats, and love you for even more for
taking the time to find these home made dog treats recpies.

Determining the best home made dog treat recpies for your dog can like a
daunting task, but don’t get overwhelmed. It true, not all dogs like the same
flavors of treats and knowing your dog’s personality traits can help, but we found the best way to find the best recipes was to research the best selling
flavors of store bought treats and structuring your recipes around that information. And making these home made dog treats are not difficult at all.

After you have whipped up an initial batch see what your dog thinks and play
with the recipe, the final result will please both you and your dog. Finding
home made dog treats recpies is not difficult at all thanks to the internet
finding quality or even all natural home made dog treats respies is another issue
all together. While the sources are endless start your search at 1dogbehaviortraining.com www.1dogbehaviortraining.com their information is excellent and they offer a monthly natural free recipe for dog treats.

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October 30, 2009   No Comments

Finding the Right Veterinarian for Your Labrador Retrievers

One of the most difficult things the owner of a Labrador Retriever must do is chose the right veterinarian. With a little work upfront, you will be able to find a veterinarian that you will be comfortable with, and one that will be able to serve all of your Labradors long term needs.

One of the best ways to find a good veterinarian is to start by asking your family members and friends whom themselves own pets. Neighbors, groomers, and your fellow co-workers are other good sources. You can also search your local yellow pages under dog hospitals, veterinarians, and animal clinics. An excellent online source is located at www.pets911.com (punch in your zip code and it will locate veterinarians in your area).

Now that you have a potential list of vets, your selection process can begin.

Give each veterinarian a call and explain that you are looking for a new veterinarian for your Labrador Retriever, and you would like to meet with them to ask a few questions and to see their facility.

Typical questions and what to look for:

Fee and Services – some veterinarians are higher priced then others. Don’t be hesitant to ask about prices.

* What methods of payment do they take?

* Do they accept a pet insurance plan?

* Is full payment expected on the day of visit?

* Are there discounts for multi-pet households?

* What is the range of services that the veterinarian provides (x-rays, blood test, heartworm test, etc)?

Office Hours

* What are regular office hours?

* Who will take over if the veterinarian is on vacation or out sick?

Emergency Care for your Labrador

* What should I do if the veterinarian is closed and my Labrador Retriever gets hurt or is sick?

* In case of an accident that requires an overnight stay, will someone be with my Labrador Retriever non-stop?

Observe the Staff

Observe the interaction with the veterinarian and with the other staff. Are they courteous and caring?

Facility

* Is the facility clean and well kept?

* How many veterinarians are in the practice?

* Are appointments required?

* Are the animals in separate cages?

The last thing you might want to do is to check with the Veterinarian Medical Board to check if any complaints have been filed against the practice.

Once you have finished making your visits with the veterinarians on your list, you should have a clear picture on what veterinarian you would like to use. If for some reason your first choice doesn’t work out, you can always switch veterinarians to your next choice on your list.

By utilizing the above guidelines, you will be able to match the right veterinarian to what you are looking for, and to serving all of your Labrador Retrievers needs.

Fay Fernandez is an experienced pet owner and creator of


October 30, 2009   No Comments

Dog Intestinal Problems

Upset tummies are common problem in dogs.

The effects of over-processed foods, stress and environmental conditions can affect dogs just like it will humans.

Vomiting, diarrhea, grumbling stomach and bloat though common, can have a variety of causes, some of which are easy to solve with a change in diet, others with some serious medical treatment.

What I will try to do is cover some of the more common causes and what can be done to avoid or treat the cause.

Intestinal upsets and diarrhea can be caused by numerous things such as stress, allergy to a new food, viruses, bacteria, parasites, and change in diet or by your pet eating something that was not meant to be digested.

Bacteria caused diarrhea includes the Salmonella varieties, e-coli, and food poisoning, most of which last a short time and can be treated by over-the-counter medication recommended by your veterinarian.

Viral causes of diarrhea include distemper and parvovirus. These two usually attack puppies and young dogs and can be prevented by having your pet vaccinated.

Parasitic causes of diarrhea include worms (hookworm and whipworms) and Giardia (a form of protozoa) all can be treated with medication from your vet.

Food-related causes of diarrhea can be caused by a change in diet, an enzyme deficiency, allergy to a certain food ingredient or by eating something that is foreign to the body. Food related causes may take some searching, but usually can be isolated within a short period of time.

While diarrhea is caused by the irritation of the small or large intestine, vomiting is caused by an irritation of the stomach.

If a dog throws up after a meal or after eating something distasteful that is commonly known as regurgitation and is not considered serious.

Vomiting on the other hand is retching, a forceful stomach contraction that forces the food out of the stomach. Vomiting can be retching without food being forced out and you will see bile or saliva instead.

After vomiting a dog will appear restless and may even drool (salivate.) Any sign of vomiting with out producing a sign of food or other substance is serious. As it could mean the stomach has flipped (a sign of bloating) and demands immediate attention of your vet.

Vomiting as a general rule is not a sign of a serious illness. Some dogs eat too fast, some dog’s vomit after eating grass and some dogs vomit a fluffy yellow mixture shortly after waking up in the morning, neither of which is a sign of concern.

This is known as “reflux gastritis” and can be corrected by feeding your dog small meals throughout the day or by feeding a meal shortly before going to bed for the night. There are also some drugs that are available to help this problem (see your Vet.)

However, chronic retching, blood in the vomit, and projectile vomiting are signs that a visit to the vet should be taken at once. These are signs that something maybe awry in the area of the kidneys, liver, or pancreas.

Intermittent vomiting and diarrhea can be an expected part of living with a pet, just as it is in our own lives, we all experience those problems a time or two ourselves. Granted cleaning up their accident leaves much to be desired, but vomiting is not life threatening unless it persists.

What are some of the things you can do to help your dog?

Your vet may suggest some Pepto Bismal or other over-the-counter treatment. It is best to withhold food for a while, but not water, however do not let your dog gulp down a large quantity of water at one time. A bland diet of chicken and rice will help soothe the stomach and can be fed once the stomach has settled down.

Make certain you pet does not exercise an hour before he/she eats and waits at least another hour or two afterward before heavy exercising.

Control water consumption before eating. Too much water can upset the stomach.

Feed high quality food and do not overfeed. Avoid rich people food.

When in doubt about any unusual pet behavior, please do not hesitate to call your vet or other pet health care provider.

Keeping our pets healthy is very beneficial not only for the pet, but for our pocketbooks, also. If the only time you need to visit the veterinarian is for yearly check ups and necessary shots you are saving money. Nutrition is very important in keeping a dog healthy, proper quality food that contains all the necessary vitamins and minerals is a good way to start. If this article has been of benefit, please visit my web site and blog at cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com


October 30, 2009   No Comments

Training Dogs Not To Bite

Training Your Dog Not To Bite

According to the statistics, dogs bite more than 4.7 million people per year. This unwanted, and often avoidable, behaviour, results in law suits, medical bills and sometimes dog euthanasia.

As with any dog training issue, how easy or difficult it is to train a dog to not bite will vary according to the breed, age and individual temperament of the dog. But there are some common techniques that will usually help suppress the biting behaviour.

Wherever possible, start young. Puppies have a natural inclination to mouth and nip. Though it’s often encouraged by owners who understandably see the behaviour as cute, human restraint is a prerequisite to dog restraint. Good, and bad, habits start young, and need to be controlled at this early stage.

Beyond about the age of four weeks, puppies can begin to learn simple commands. When the puppy moves his mouth to bite, a gentle, but firm ‘No!’ followed by a slight squeeze of the muzzle can help.

Be careful not to cause the puppy to bite its tongue, though. Be especially careful not to squeeze hard or too high up on the muzzle. Dogs have sensitive and delicate odour receptors high up inside the nose. You never want to damage a dog’s ability to smell.

The squeeze isn’t to punish, but to inform. The goal is to help the young dog associate the verbal command with something it can understand at that age, namely discomfort. Most dogs naturally dislike having their muzzles squeezed at any age.

Along with verbal discouragement and gentle physical restraint or reminders, socializing your dog – as young and often as possible – can help develop calm and confident dogs. Fearful dogs, not used to strangers (whether human or animal), are much more prone to biting behaviour.

Expose the dog to other (non-aggressive) dogs. Differences in smell and looks are triggers that can cause dogs to become wary. Introducing them to a variety at a young age can help discourage this territorial response.

Most dogs will naturally inhibit biting when playing with litter mates. They nip, but learn early not to press hard. Take advantage of this by ‘widening’ the pack to include family members, other pets and frequent visitors.

Restrain your pet at first when introducing animals from other households. Restrain the other animal as well. Let them approach slowly and sniff or carry out other natural behaviour.

Look for body tension, snarling, erect ears and other indicators of oncoming aggression. Make the dog sit, stroke its back and put out your hand to the other animal then convey the smell to your pet. Then allow them to interact.

Dogs normally learn bite inhibition by four and a half months, but don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t happen that quickly. Breeds vary and so do individuals. Older dogs, especially ones not trained early to suppress biting, or not socialized, will naturally be harder to train.

Some dogs will never be fully trained not to want to bite. Part of training involves training people, too. Make sure any such dog is unable to reach other people or animals. And, make sure that people are informed not to try to interact with the dog.

If you have an older dog that has a tendency to bite then have a small garden spray with water in it. And spray it in the dogs face at the appropriate moment. He will soon learn that it is unacceptable behaviour.

Gradual, persistent, patient training will usually pay off in a calmer, more playful pet. Which, despite the effort involved, is better than paying off lawsuits.

For more information on training dogs please visit dogtrainingproblems.biz dogtrainingproblems.biz


October 29, 2009   No Comments

Five Tips For Caring For Your Older Horse

He’s been your equine partner for years now. You’ve perhaps ridden in
shows, through trails or even relocated across the country with your
horse. You’ve been friends a long time, and it may be hard to admit, but
you’ve noticed your horse is slowing down.

Don’t lose heart. Just like with people, advances in health care and
nutrition are helping horses live longer, more productive lives, well into
their senior years. But older horses do take a little extra care. Here’s a
few ways to keep your aging buddy doing his best.

1. Give him light, consistent work. Your horse may not be able to keep
up a workout routine for competitions, but he’s probably not ready to
retire either. Keep him at a reasonable fitness level and he’ll feel and
perform like a younger horse. The worst thing to do is let him get out of
shape and then ride him hard some weekend when he hasn’t been
ridden for months. That’s not fair to him and may spell trouble for you
later.

2. Make sure your horse has regular vet check-ups. Don’t neglect the vet
check-up even if your horse isn’t around many other horses anymore.
Keep him up-to-date on vaccinations, like any horse, and make sure
your vet begins looking for signs of arthritis or soundness issues.
Sometimes cortisone shots given early can not only provide relief for
aching joints, but can prevent further inflammation and stiffness later on.

Continued deworming is also important for the older horse. Horses more
than 20 years old may have intestinal scarring from worm damage that
occurred before modern larvicidal dewormers were available.

Have your veterinarian check your horse’s teeth at least once a year.
The older a horse gets, the more likely his teeth will be worn into sharp
points. They may even be wearing out completely.

3. Consider a senior feed. Older horses do not absorb as many
nutrients from their food as younger horses. Couple that with worn-out,
missing or damaged teeth, and many older horses have difficulty
keeping weight on, especially through the winter months. Several senior
feeds on the market today offer alfalfa-based pellets that are easy for
older horses to chew, swallow and digest.

Many times older horses choose to eat very little hay. The senior feed is
designed to cover all roughage requirements for the horse as well as
provide the ideal vitamin and mineral balance for the older horse. Also,
don’t feed your senior buddy with a younger, more aggressive horse.
You want to make sure he doesn’t have to fight for his fair share.

4. Consider feed supplements. If you’ve never used a feed supplement,
now may be the time. Talk to your veterinarian about what kind of
supplement might be best for your horse. Biotin is great for hooves and
coat. Other supplements can help with energy. Of course, glucosiamine
is the standard supplement to keep joints healthy and lubricated.

5. Give him attention. It’s easy to forget about a horse you can’t use as
much anymore, but if you can’t use him, maybe you should loan his
services to someone who can. Many older, experienced show horses
are great lesson horses. He could give a neighbor’s child a few lessons
a week or stand still while you teach children how to properly groom a
horse. He might be a great mount for a beginner rider, or an adult who
doesn’t want any surprises. You could still take him on the occasional
leisurely ride. Just don’t leave him untouched in a stall for days. At the
very least, give him a buddy and plenty of turnout time.

It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but
when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree
he’s worth it. With the proper care, many horses are living sound,
productive lives well into their 20s.

Diane Samson is a writer with The Lieurance Group, a
freelance writers cooperative in Kansas City, Missouri. Samson can
provide writing, reporting and editing services for magazines,
newspapers, corporate communications and especially animal
publications. Find out more about her writing services at lieurancegroup.blogspot.com lieurancegroup.blogspot.com. or email her at: mailto:dianesamson@birch.net dianesamson@birch.net


October 29, 2009   No Comments