Posts from — May 2009
Wholesale Dog Toys
Your pet dog probably gets bored easily and needs dog toys to pass the time away. Instead of letting the “the little darling” rip the throw pillows you have on the couch or nibble on the furniture, buy lots of dog toys instead. The market provides a myriad of dog toy options to choose from. Wholesale dog toys vary in kinds, product line, shapes and sizes, and your dog will love them all!
Dogs are like children – they play a lot! They always expect you or your children to play with them as well. If you cannot fully attend to your pets all of the time, then give them quality dog toys.
Buying dog toys at wholesale prices gives huge discounts and a whole lot of toys. If you buy dog toys in bulk and stock your dog will never run out of playthings. Purchasing dog toys in large volumes will enable you to share some of the toys to the pets of your relatives and friends. They do make great gifts.
If your pet dog is an expert at destroying dog toys, keeping a stock will save you the worry of buying a toy every time you turn around. A dog with no toys will surely turn its attention back to your expensive shoes, slippers, bags, and furniture.
You should also buy wholesale dog toys if your pet is teething. Chewing and nipping is one of their unstoppable addictions. There are great, top-notch and durable dog toys that you can purchase at wholesale prices. If you want a breakdown of the wholesale price of dog toys, you can start your search online.
Take your pick from a line of hard and soft rubber balls, dental health toys, rope, fetch toys, talking toys, rubber rings, puffy and furry dog toys. Whether they are stuffed or made up of latex, vinyl, nylon, or rubber, what matters most is their durability and safety.
e-DogToys.com Dog Toys provides detailed information on Dog Toys, Wholesale Dog Toys, Dog Chew Toys, Plush Dog Toys and more. Dog Toys is affiliated with i-DogTreats.com Homemade Dog Treats.
May 31, 2009 No Comments
What Is The Nitogen Cycle?
We’ve all seen salt water aquariums in books and on the internet as well as in our homes. They come in all sorts of sizes and shapes, some being enormous, then all the way down in size to a nano aquarium. Whatever size they are and whether they are fish only or reef, they rely on nature’s life support system, the nitrogen cycle.
Any aquarist needs to basically understand the nitrogen cycle. There is no requirement to become a scientist, just know what is going on. Then the dangers of stressing the aquarium will be better realized (as an example overfeeding, perhaps the main problem with fledgling aquarists?).
All the aquarist needs to do is provide the correct environment for the nitrogen cycle to function. This can be done in several ways that will not be gone into here….except to point out that the nitrogen cycle can reach its full function with some filtration methods and only partially reach it with others. As an example, full function can be reached with ‘live’ rock and partial function can be reached with a canister filter.
So, how does it work? The following is very simplified.
As part of normal aquarium life, livestock put waste into the seawater. In addition there is breakdown of other items such as algae which has died and similar. On top of that the livestock need food which is provided in the main by the aquarist. All of these will produce ammonia which is toxic. Left unchecked, ammonia will kill our livestock.
Provided a proper environment has been provided, nature comes to the rescue. A colony of bacteria (Nitrosomas) develop and they transform the ammonia into nitrite. The toxic ammonia has been dealt with but it has been converted to another toxin which is nearly as detrimental to livestock. Again, another colony of bacteria (Nitrobacter) transform the nitrite into nitrate. Now we are getting somewhere, nitrate is nowhere near as toxic as nitrite. Depending what they are, generally livestock can stand fairly high but varying concentrations of nitrate.
It is at this point that the nitrogen cycle has gone as far as it can in the example given above, the canister filter. All the bacteria have required is a suitable environment with a good supply of oxygen. The bacteria mentioned above operate in an oxygen rich environment.
If an aquarist with our example, a canister filter, wants to continue and deal with the nitrate, then another filter needs to be set up for this.
The aquarist who has used the other example, ‘live’ rock, need just let nature continue.
It is in fact best to keep nitrate at low levels, particularly with corals but not exclusively so. The natural nitrate reduction process is known as denitrification. Bacteria once again form a colony, but the environment they need is one very low in oxygen. This is called an anaerobic environment. As oxygen is mainly absent, the bacteria utilize the nitrate. In the process the nitrate is transformed into nitrogen gas. The nitrogen gas is released from the aquarium at the water surface.
There are other ways to remove nitrates (for example algae) but if the full natural cycle can be achieved then this is the best.
As can be seen, our example the canister filter is unable to deal with nitrate as the environment is totally oxygen rich. To deal with nitrate, a further special nitrate filter will need to be employed. Or, if nitrates are not too high, water changes may be sufficient.
‘Live’ rock (in sufficient quantity, good condition, and with acceptable water circulation) can deal with ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The bacteria live on and within the rock.
There are filtration methods other than the two examples given. (’Live’ rock is however considered to be the best, and can be supplemented by a DSB (deep sand bed)). Whatever the filtration method employed, it must be pointed out that there are limits that any filter can deal with. So don’t overfeed. Don’t overstock (resist the “one more fish” temptation unless you are sure your stocking level will take it). Also be willing to carry out water quality tests. If the aquarium is new, allow time for the bacteria colonies to build, or for the ‘live’ rock to settle and ‘adjust’.
Next time you sit and view your seawater aquarium, think of the bacteria, nature’s engines, working for you.
Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium’s for nearly 35 years. Visit their site ‘Aquarists Online’ if you are interested in the aquaristsonline.com saltwater aquarium hobby.
May 31, 2009 No Comments
English Bulldog Info – The Essential Information For This Wonderful Breed
So you’re considering becoming the owner of the famed English bulldog breed of dog? GREAT! I’ve been a dog trainer and breed for over 20 years, and in all my years of experience I’ve come to one overall conclusion regarding this breed…it’s a fantastic breed that fits the profile of most owners. However, just like any other breed of dog, you must be well educated with all the up to date and accurate English bulldog info if you want a happy life for you’re future or current bulldog. English bulldogs can be very specific in the kind of training, grooming and care that they respond to.
While there’s no possible way that I can go through all the needed information in just one small article, I can go through the basics with you. I very strongly recommend as a dog trainer and breeder of a long time, that you seek out more information immediately after this article. So let’s get to it! Here are some essential guidelines to follow for you’re current of future English bulldog:
The first thing that needs to be noted about you’re bulldog it their character and personality. In the case of the English bulldog, they are very loving and compassionate animals, always seeking love and attention from their human owners. They get along great with children and because they are small but heavy set dogs, are very sturdy and can tough through the usual Child’s play. They also have a tendency to be rather lazy dogs, and this is not a bad thing for the right owner. They require very little exercise and physical stimulation, it is because of this trait that they make perfect pets for busy families or the owner who doesn’t brutalize themselves with 5 mile trail runs everyday.
The next set of English bulldog info that you as an owner should know and understand is the proper grooming and cleaning requirements of this breed. In the case of the English bulldog, they do not need to be bathed very often, in fact it’s highly recommended that you only bath an English bulldog when necessary to help protect the oils and integrity of his/her coat. The English bulldog needs to be brushed down however, on a daily basis, or at the least, once every two days to remove any dead hair, but this is a quick, easy 5 minute process. Also because of the bulldogs unique jaw structure, make sure that you wipe inside the folds of skin around the bulldogs mouth with a wet cloth once or twice a week.
When it comes to training an English bulldog, the right English bulldog info will go a long way. The English bulldog is a very bright animal that will learn very quickly, and because it’s very keen on direction from its master, will always aim to please. However, when it comes to training, this dog breed requires a firm hand and consistent training (never hit you’re dog!). If the English bulldog is to be well mannered, it needs an owner who has a dominating enough personality to put the breed in its place when needed.
Again, while I can’t go into every needed detail in this little article, these are the basics that you’ll need to know. The English bulldog makes for an excellent pet whether the owner is single or has a family already here or on the way. I can not stress to you enough however, how important it is that you soak up on all the needed English bulldog info so that you can enjoy a happy and healthy life with you English bulldog.
English bulldog’s are not the easiest dogs to investigate, good valuable and in depth information can be very scarce. I promise you, based on all my years of experience that if you don’t take the necessary steps to educate yourself on this or any breed, you’ll end up paying the price in the long run, you owe it to yourself and you’re future pet. squidoo.com/englishbulldoginfo/ squidoo.com/englishbulldoginfo/
May 31, 2009 No Comments
Learn How To Give Your Cat A bath
Have you ever considered giving your cat a bath? Your dog and cat both require a certain amount of maintenance to keep them happy and healthy. While most cats are self-sufficient, all cats could use a little boost in the bathing department.
When it comes to cat care, very few cat owners think to give their cat a bath. A bath can help get rid of excess fur during the shedding season.
You could take your cat to the veterinarian or a professional groomer and have them give your cat a bath, but giving your cat a bath on your own isn’t all that difficult. As long as you have patience and take things slowly, the two of you can get through the ordeal in one piece.
Before you think of bathing, give your cat a good brushing. Use a soft brush or grooming glove for short haired felines. For cats with longer fur, use a wide-toothed comb. Don’t brush too hard. Cats don’t have very thick skin like their wild cousins, the big cats.
Brush out any tangles and check the cat over for any sores or abscesses. Clean the cat’s ears and trim its nails. If your cat starts to get a little antsy, take everything in stages. Start with one task, then put the cat down and come back to the next task later.
While your cat is off wandering the house and working off stress, you can get the bath ready. Make sure you have a soft towel and shampoos made for your cat at hand. Remember that your cat will be licking himself after the wash, and some soaps might have a residue that could make your cat sick if ingested.
If you can, use your kitchen sink as a tub. The sink is much easier to work with than trying to bend over a tub. Place a towel in the bottom of the sink as a mat to keep your cat from slipping. The most important thing is to give your cat a bath in a warm room so that afterwards, he’ll have a warm place to dry off.
When you’re ready to bathe your cat, put cotton balls in its ears to help keep the water out. Run some lukewarm water into the sink, but don’t fill the sink all the way. You might want to fill the sink first, since the sound of the rushing water could make your cat nervous, especially if he knows what’s coming.
Try not to restrain your cat too much either. If the cat feels like it’s being trapped, you’ll have a harder time holding it through this cat care process.
Keep talking to the cat calmly and reassuringly. Don’t yell or try to scold him if he decides not to cooperate. If you’re nervous, your cat will be nervous, too. Hissing, flattened ears and yowling are all signs that you have a very stressed kitty on your hands.
To wet the coat, pour water over your cat. You can also take a thin towel, wrap it around your cat, and wet its fur through the towel. Once the fur is wet, apply shampoo, and then rinse well. When you rinse your cat, try to avoid using the spray nozzle. If your cat didn’t like the sound of running water, the hiss of the spray won’t be calming at all.
Make sure that you get all the shampoo out of its fur. When you’re done rinsing, dry your cat by blotting instead of scrubbing. Blotting long fur is far more effective than rubbing the towel over the cat’s body.
If your cat will tolerate the noise from this cat care routine, you can use a hair dryer on the lowest setting. If you can’t use the dryer, that’s okay. Dry your cat as much as you can and let it go find a warm place to dry off.
The best advice for bathing a cat is to start while the cat is young so that they become familiar with this form of cat care. If you get your cat used to bathing early in life and make the first experience as enjoyable as you can, your cat will be more cooperative in the future.
Mike Selvon owns a number of niche portal. Please visit our cats.trustprofitableniche.com/ cats portal for more great tips on cats.trustprofitableniche.com/cat-care-bath.php cat care, and leave a comment at our mynicheportal.com/pets-animals/the-first-step-to-cat-care-is-giving-a-good-bath cats blog.
May 31, 2009 No Comments
Help! My Puppy Won’t Stop Biting Me And It’s Starting To Hurt!
Dogs are not born with soft mouths, but they can learn to bite softly if taught properly, which means plenty of information and communication from you and from other dogs.
Interacting with other dogs is critical to teaching your puppy bite inhibition. When two dogs play together and one bites too hard, the other one cries and runs away. This behavior helps to teach the biter to play-bite softly.
Normal puppies can and should play-bite continually in social interactions, because biting and mouthing are normal canine behaviors. Puppies and young adolescent dogs have a physical and psychological need to use their mouths. Remember, dogs use their mouths the way humans use their hands.
Soft mouth exercises need to begin as soon as you get your new puppy. Puppy teeth are sharp, but their jaws are underdeveloped so these exercises should not be painful to you. When your puppy is mouthing your hand or fingers, monitor their bite pressure. If your puppy bites too hard, screech “OUCH” very loudly and look at your puppy as if she just ripped your hand off. Then leave the room and ignore your puppy for several minutes.
You need to make a strong impression on your puppy that if she bites too hard, she will end up playing all by herself. Being very social animals, most dogs and puppies will not opt to play by themselves. Be prepared to repeat this exercise over and over again so that a trend emerges…Bite too hard, play by yourself!
This exercise is even more effective if all the people that come into contact with your puppy implement it with one exception. Young children should never teach soft mouth exercises. When you puppy starts to get overexcited and begins to bite too hard, have your children leave the area so you can do the training.
When your puppy is consistently demonstrating better self-control, you can start to monitor even the moderate to light pressure bites. Now, if your puppy is putting her mouth on you with even moderate pressure, screech “OUCH,” leave, and ignore her for a few minutes. Then go back and try again.
Remember, you must give your puppy plenty of outlets for her mouth and jaws. Stuffed Kong toys, frozen wash cloths, chew toys soaked in broth or chicken stock, and tug-of-war games are just a few great ways for your puppy to use her mouth and jaws in an acceptable way. If you say no to one item (your hands or your clothes) you must say yes to another (her toys).
And always manage your puppy’s behavior. If she is biting and mouthing you excessively, this is a clear signal that she is bored and needs to release some energy. A good dose of aerobic exercise should remedy this.
On a final note, never reinforce your puppy’s biting or mouthy behavior. Your attention, be it scruff shaking, grabbing her snout, or smacking her nose is all reinforcement to your puppy and will make the problem worse.
Biting is a normal stage that puppies go through, and when properly managed, never needs to become a big issue down the road.
Eric Letendre, the author of The Amazing Dog Training Man, invites you to visit amazingdogtrainingman.com amazingdogtraining.com for leading edge dog training tips, instructional video clips and articles that will help you train and understand your dog. You can also get weekly dog training updates with a free Smart Dog Newsletter subscription, available at amazingdogtrainingman.com/newsletter1.htm amazingdogtrainingman
May 30, 2009 No Comments
Exotic Pets – Top 5
Often people look for a pet that is out of the ordinary. Sometimes a normal cat or dog just won’t do! Though, it is always wise to know what you’re getting into. Here, then, are the top five non-traditional pets:
5. Scorpions
There are many species of this particular creature, and the strength of their venom varies between species. The most commonly found pet species, the emperor scorpion, is not particularly dangerous. Its sting can be compared with that of a bee or wasp, though like bees, there is a chance of an allergic reaction.
Scorpions do not require a great amount of care, but are not an ideal pet. Handling a scorpion is not a good idea – Besides the risk of its sting, scorpions become very stressed when handled, a health risk to the creature itself. Also, the animals can live up to 8 years, making them a long-term commitment kind of pet.
4. Cockroaches
Hissing Cockroaches – These insects are great for beginner pet-owners! They are quite docile and require little maintenance. Though they’re not of the “cute and cuddly” variety of pet, they are quite interesting. They hiss when disturbed, and males will hiss while courting a female. Sometimes, for reasons unknown, the entire colony will hiss in unison.
Hissing Cockroaches are best kept in a large tank with wood shavings. Water and fresh fruit and vegetables are all they require. They are hardy creatures and can live up to five years.
3. Tarantulas
This fascinating creature has become a more popular pet in recent years. There still remains some fear in potential owners, though keeping a tarantula as a pet is often more harmful to the animal than to the pet owner. Tarantulas can die even from a short fall, if their abdomen ruptures.
Tarantulas are venomous, but in most species, the toxicity of their venom is akin to a bee or wasp sting. In some cases, a person can have an allergic reaction to spider bites, in much the same way that some react to bee stings.
There are hundreds of species of tarantula, and some are more aggressive than others, so potential owners really need to do research before purchasing one. Tarantulas are fascinating, quiet, and in most cases, need little space.
2. Ants
Purchasing an ant farm is the easiest and simplest way to keep and maintain this interesting pet. With an ant farm, you only need to feed your ants once per week, making them a very low-maintenance pet. A small crumb of bread soaked in sugar water is enough to feed your whole colony for a week!
1. Rats
Rats have a life-span of two to three years and are considered quite social and intelligent. They are also easy to tame and are very gentle. Though they are nocturnal, they tend to adapt to their owner’s schedule. Due to their social nature, they should also be kept with other rats.
Rat owners compare their care to that of a dog – they require a lot of attention and at least an hour of exercise per day. These curious and playful pets are easy to care for, but not necessarily low-maintenance.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with PetLovers.Com/ PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for PetLovers.Com/ Pet Forums.
Tonia Jordan is a freelance Journalist and a writer on writing.com Writing.com.
May 30, 2009 No Comments
A Little Bit about the Pomeranian
This is dog is occasionally referred to as the Miniature Spitz dog or European Spitz. In its native land of Germany it is the smallest member of the German Spitz group. The Pomeranian is also sometimes called the German Spitz in Germany.
In Germany the Pomeranian was bred to its present size in Pomeranian during the nineteenth century. Its ancestors were of the Spitz type and larger. Among the Pomeranian’s ancestors are the Samoyed, Norwegian Elkhound, Chow Chow and other northern European breeds. It is possible that the Pomeranian was reduced in size from the large white sled dog that originated in Iceland and Lapland. Exact time of origin is unknown. Queen Victoria of England took a great liking to the Pomeranian and helped to increase its popularity in her palace in 1888.
Other Spitz types were used as herding dogs and sled pullers. The Pomeranian, however, has always been a lapdog. It came to America in the late nineteenth century and was shown in the miscellaneous class in 1892 by the AKC. American Kennel Club recognized the Pomeranian officially in 1900. Since that time he has become quite popular as a pampered little pet.
Personality
The Pomeranian is sometimes a little too courageous for its own good. He serves well as an alarm dog, but its barking sometimes becomes a habit that needs to be discouraged. The Pomeranian has one primary purpose and that is to please its owners. It sometimes shies away from children that play too rough. The Pomeranian may not be a good choice for a household with children or as a child’s pet. They socialize easily with cats and other small family pets.
The Pomeranian is definitely one of those big dogs in a little package. They usually won’t back down from a much larger dog. This aggressiveness can be self-destructive as obviously a bigger dog could make mince meat of a tiny Pomeranian.
The Pomeranian is eager to learn and is devoted to its family. He is affectionate and has a very loving nature toward its own family. He is delightful and is always ready for a quick game with those he loves.
The Pomeranian responds to command if they are consistently given and he is rewarded with edible treats or kind words. The Pomeranian has a tendency to become somewhat of a “spoiled brat.” When his bad habits surface he may simply ignore commands to “act better.” He is rarely seen in agility trials; however, the Pomeranian does well in obedience trials.
Appearance
A Pomeranian stands about 7 to 8 inches tall and weighs from 3 to 7 pounds. The tiny Pomeranian has a short body, straight legs and well-balanced overall appearance. He has erect ears and a fox like expression that gives this little dog an alert expression. Pigmentation of the nose, lips and eyelids are always dark, usually black.
The Pomeranian’s coat is double and profuse. Acceptable colors are red, orange, cream and sable, black, brown and blue.
Grooming the Pomeranian
The coat of a Pomeranian is made up of an undercoat and an outer coat. The undercoat is soft and fluffy. The outer coat is fairly long, straight and harsh and covers the entire body.
There is an abundance of coat around the neck and the fore part of the shoulders and chest that forms a frill that extends over the shoulder. The forequarters are well feathered and the thighs and hind legs are well feathered to the hocks.
The Pomeranian requires regular attention to keep it clean and attractive. Thorough brushing once a week is required to keep the coat in good condition.
You will need a slicker/pin brush, medium-tooth metal comb, scissors and cotton buds.
Brush against the lie of the coat to give the Pomeranian its round pompom appearance. Brush first with the slicker/pin brush working from the top of the head, layering the hair as you go and be sure you reach the skin level. Then work through the coat with the comb to remove any tangles left behind from the brushing.
You might consider using a dry bath on your Pomeranian’s coat when in full coat. When the Pomeranian is in full coat, use a suitable pH-alkaline-balanced shampoo and rinse well.
This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.
Author: Connie Limon. Visit us at abouttoydogs.com abouttoydogs.com and sign up for our newsletters. About Toy Dogs is a guide to the selection and care of toy dog breeds. We feature articles, dog training resources, dog books, dog supplies and a toy dog breed directory. Purchase a full page ad with up to 3 pictures, a video of your dogs with up 12 pictures; ads are featured in our newsletters, all for the price of $25 per year
May 30, 2009 No Comments
Dog Training – Tips For Consistency
So, Santa brought a puppy for Christmas. As the holiday season winds to a close, it is time to start seriously considering dog training for that little, lovable bundle of fur. Without proper dog training, your lives are about to take a turn for the worse.
There are a few things you need to understand about dog training. Training your new puppy is going to take time, effort and lots of energy. Training a dog is not easy! It takes commitment. Just visit your local dog shelter to see how lacking that level of commitment is in today’s society. Many of the dogs who end up at the shelter have “behavioral problems” that are simply due to a lack of proper training.
Remember, when you decided to buy that puppy, you took on a responsibility. Yes, pets are fun, but above all, owning a dog is a responsibility, even if you bought the dog for your kids. You, as the adult in your home, are ultimately responsible for the well being of that dog. And proper dog training ensures a proper emotional and physical well being!
The fist step to dog training is patience. Your dog does not think like you do. You have to teach him what you expect him to do. Consistency goes hand in hand with patience. If you tell your dog to do something, follow through and make sure he does it.
Yelling is never a good dog training technique. Dogs have excellent hearing and yelling only works to heighten any strained energy in the situation. You need to speak in a clear, concise manner, but yelling will not help you.
Make it easy for your dog to do what you want him to do and difficult for him to do what you do not want him to do. For example, if you want him to drink from his water dish, but not from the toilet, keep the toilet lid closed and the water dish in plain site. This seems obvious, but owners often overlook it.
You must ensure that your dog gets daily exercise. This means you need to walk or play with your dog, every single day. This teaches your dog that you are fun and also that he needs to always obey you. Remember, the more time you spend with your dog in a leadership role, the more quickly your dog will realize that he is not the boss of your home.
Remember that dogs read body language faster than they read vocal language. In dog training, have a hand signal that shows your dog what to do, or shows your displeasure. Do not hit your dog, but use your body and hands to insist upon obedience. For example, a firm hold on your dog is a good training technique. It shows your dog that you are the dominant one in the home.
If you need help with dog training, get it! Remember, it is your responsibility and there are classes all over the country to help you train your dog to be the fun, loving companion you have always wanted in your home!
Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to dog-training-guideto.com/ Dog Training
May 30, 2009 No Comments
What’s in Your Pet’s Food: Is Buying a Top Premium Dog Food Worth the Money?
There is a lot of controversy with dog owners over which dog food is better. Some people have no idea what makes a good dog food. They buy the most expensive brand because they assume it must be a top quality dog food. Others feel that dog food is dog food and if their dog seems to be healthy then they see no reason to spend the extra money on a premium brand.
Before we look at dog food costs, let’s begin with what makes a good dog food. A top quality dog food depends on the quality of ingredients and the nutritional power of the food. It should offer a balanced diet and contain superior sources of protein as one of the first two ingredients. This can include whole fresh meats or single-source meat meal like chicken meal (rather than poultry meal). A top dog food would also contain whole, unprocessed grains plus vegetables and even fruits. It would have few fillers such as corn, soy, brewer’s rice and wheat bran. It would use natural preservatives instead of chemicals like propylene glycol and BHT or BHT.
Supermarket Dog Foods vs. Premium Brands: Which is a Better Value for the Money?
Some people experience sticker shock when they compare the price of a premium dog food with an economy brand. Many dog foods found in supermarkets are so-called economy brands, which, surprisingly, end up costing more to feed your dog than top rated premium dog foods. Why? Because “economy” dog foods tend to be lower in nutrients than premium foods and you have to feed your dog more to get the same nutritional punch of a more expensive premium brand. For example, the recommended feeding instructions for one supermarket brand say to feed approximately 6 cups a day for a 35-50 lb dog. The label on an ultra-premium dog food recommends about 1 ¾ to 2 cups per day. That’s around three times as much of the standard dog food vs. the premium food. So now which costs less? And just think about the extra poop you will have to scoop if you’re feeding your dog six cups a day! Some lower end dog food manufacturers have even reduced the recommended feeding amount to make their food look more economical.
Lower end dog foods usually contain corn meal as one of the main ingredients (an acceptable protein source, but may cause allergies in some dogs), plus chicken or animal byproducts or rendered meat/poultry. Byproducts are ground, rendered, pieces of the carcasses of slaughtered animals or poultry and can include heads, feet, necks, and viscera. These are less nutritious but are often used in lower-quality dog foods because they are much cheaper than whole turkey, chicken, or meat. Rendered is often referred to as “byproducts meal” and it means the cooked and processed remains of the leftovers in meat and poultry processing. Yuck!
What Should You Look for in a Dog Food?
Learn how to read the label. Better dog foods are made from whole product, such as chicken, turkey, and lamb. Also check the label to see if the protein source is free of hormones, antibiotics, and pesticides. Chicken fat is a very good source of linoleic acid, which helps makes dogs’ coats healthy and shiny. Also check the fiber content. Three to four percent fiber is recommended for solid stools. Avoid dog foods that have rendered meats, poultry or fats, animal byproducts, added growth hormones, brain or spinal tissue, artificial colors, artificial flavors, preservatives, and for dogs that may have allergies, avoid corn, soy, wheat, and eggs.
So what About the Cost?
There are many excellent dog foods on the market, and a variety of prices. Buying a top quality dog food doesn’t necessarily mean you will be paying the most; understanding the ingredients list and getting value for your money is what counts.
Valerie Goettsch is webmaster of
May 29, 2009 No Comments
Crate Training A Puppy- A Herculean Task?
Most of us think that crate training a puppy is a difficult task but we do not know is that later on, even the dog will like it. Are you amazing? Do you know that crate is a valuable and useful training tool?
The crate will become a comfortable and safe place for your puppy where it can sleep and relax just like its kennel. The main objective of crate is to offer your pup with protection, safety and security for short-term confinement.
More over your puppy won’t stay in its crate through out the day, as it will make use of the crate either at night or sometimes if you’re left your puppy alone. Although your puppy dislikes the crate initially, time and patience gains you fruitful result.
Although crate seems to be a jail cell, it will act as your dog’s natural den- a personal space where it feels safety, security and protection- it is nothing but the CRATE. Before starting the crate training, the crate should be placed in a proper place such as where it can see the family members and environment, smell and hear your presence and voice- the kitchen might be the good selection.
Practice the crate training at least 10 minutes initially that is followed by 30 minutes and finally up to two hours. Your dog may bark, moan and kick up a fuss while in the crate. If you notice these things, don’t give any attention to your dog. Yes! Don’t turn your head even at his direction.
Dogs are really intelligent enough to find out that he’ll catch your attention when your dog kicks up a fuss. Simply pay no attention to him! You can let your dog out only after she/he stops barking or when it wants to relieve herself/himself.
You should prepare the crate by covering the bottom with newspapers or even use a blanket or basket in the opposite end. Now you can invite your puppy to its new home. You can either tune a radio, some music or the television set to make your puppy to hear some noise and voice in the background.
Last but not least, control your puppy’s water intake by removing its bowl after its dinner or approximately two hours before your bedtime. This will help to prevent it from soiling his crate. (potty training)
In nutshell, the prerequisite for crate training are-
The crate should be large enough that your pup or dog can stand up and turn around.
When beginning crate training, start in intervals of 10 minutes
Never punish your dog with the crate or it will dread going back.
Senthil kumar is a writer for dog care tips and advice. His numerous articles provide a wonderfully researched resource of interesting and relevant information for all of your Pet interests.For more articles, tips and resources, please visit his site at edogadvice.com/” target=”_blank Free Dog Info & e-Dog Advice
May 29, 2009 No Comments