Posts from — February 2009

I live in a shelter, alone in a cage
With food, and a towel on which to sleep
I’m small, with spiky fur, and of kitten age
Folks come here looking for a friend to keep

Some days others and myself are taken to a home
A place where strangers live, but each is alone
Once an old man caressed me gently, murmured and sighed
As his tears spilled to my shoulder from tightly closed eyes

We also went where there are machines and bright lights
A big place for babies and children who are ill
As each child checked us over it was hard to stay still
To each patient was given the choice of us to pick
A time for a while to forget they were sick

I was brought to a girl, with hair the color of night
With her hands she explored my body and face
And her touch as fragile and intricate as lace
She lifted me up so she could smell my fur
I mewed and she smiled, then stroked me, and I purred
She said, “I am blind, but you have made this moment bright.”

During the week many come to the pound
Down each aisle they make the rounds
Sometimes a kitten is chosen and homeward bound
And even rarer, a lost loved one is found

The last of summer passed, then gone, too, was fall
No longer a kitten, I’d grown lanky and tall
In the wintry months fewer folks came to call
So the kittens were gone on a visit, but not us all
Lonely, I watched shadows move at the end of the hall

I fell asleep, dreaming of the visits I did make
When my fur was spiky and my pads pink and small
Then hands tenderly shook me and stirred me awake
As a man carried me, he took my picture from the wall

When he stepped outside, he wrapped a blanket ’round me
Put me in the backseat of a car and drove away
I sat up, wondering where we were — trying to see
But the windows were frosty, so back down I lay

The car came to a stop and the man turned around
His expression gentle, he took me out of the car
He climbed some stairs, knocked, then opened a door
He strode in and laid me in another man’s arms

I was hugged, caressed tenderly, and the old man sighed
As his tears spilled to my shoulder from tightly closed eyes
“Thank you, my son! It is he, the one I had held before.
“Hey, fella! I’ll bet you wondered where you were bound?
“Well, my furry friend, you need worry no more…
“For you are here, and — homeward found!”

Copyright 2005 Kathy Pippig Harris

~~*~~

Kathy lives in California’s San Joaquin Valley with her husband and furry family. She is a weekly columnist for the publication “Frank Talk” and a published author of five novels. She states, “Were it not for her need, desire, and love of writing — she would surely go mad!”

History

This breed is the only draft breed to originate in the United States. The granddam of the line was a draft mare (Old Granny) who was the first registered American Cream. She was purchased at an auction in Iowa in 1911. Her foaling date was estimated between 1900 and 1905. After her purchase she went on to foal numerous cream colored colts, which invariably sold for above average prices.

Nelson’s Buck, owned by the Nelson Bros. of Jewell, Iowa, is considered the progenitor of the breed. His only registered offspring was a cream colt named Yancy, whose dam was a black Percheron. Yancy would sire Knox 1st in 1926 and Knox 1st would sire Silver Lace.

Silver Lace is listed as the most influential stallion to the American Cream breed. He was born of a light sorrel Belgian mare in 1931. His owner hired him out for stud services from early spring until the end of November. His fee was $15 and was not due until the colt stood and nursed for the first time. He sired many colts during his seven years as a stud. He died, mysteriously, in 1939.

Another Iowa resident became interested in the breed and bought as many of Silver Lace’s progeny as he could find for sale. With the help of the horses’ owners, he began to carefully record the ancestry of each horse.

C.T. Rierson, that Iowa resident, is responsible for the name of the breed, and for being the driving force behind the breed being recognized by the state of Iowa as having originated there.

Description and Conformation

The ideal characteristics for the American Cream Draft is the distinct medium cream color, a solid white mane and tail, amber eyes, and pink skin. The modern mare weighs between 1600 and 1800 pounds (113.6 to 127.8 stones). Stallions may weigh in at 2000 pounds (142 stones) or more. The heights range from 15.1 to 16.3 hands (a hand is four inches. This means the height, at the shoulder, is 60.4 to 65.2 inches or 153.4 to 165.6 centimeters), making them of average height for a draft horse.

One very outstanding characteristic of the American Cream is its good disposition. This is an important trait if one desires to team a pair of them for pulling and showing. It’s also very trustworthy. And because there is uniformity in color and conformation it’s very easy to match teams which look great, and work together very well.

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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to horse-guides.com/ Horses
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A very big concern with owning a dog, especially a large one, is having one infested with fleas, ticks, or other parasitic hosts.  They cause a large variety of health issues and problems with your canine companion. These hosts are often tough to get rid of.  Once infested, these parasitic creatures can often spawn hundreds of new eggs a day. With the correct dog flea medicine and prevention methods, these harmful little creatures can be eradicated and stunted from spreading forever.

Comprehending the Flea’s Life Cycle
Before you start your treatment of flea medicine, its best to understand how these little beasts live.  There are four life cycles of a flea: egg, larva, pupa and adult flea.  Fleas locate a host, like your dog or any other animal, and feed upon their blood, therefore being able to produce eggs.  Once these eggs have been laid, they will fall from the pet and hatch wherever they tend to land. These places consist of your carpet, dog bedding, couch, clothes, or wherever your dog tends to relax. They hatch as larvae and later transform into pupae and finally adult fleas where they once again find a food source such as your dog.  With suitable dog flea and tick medicine, it is evident that the fleas life cycle will come to a hault , therefore ending any further spread of eggs throughout your home.

Different Categories of Dog Flea Medicine
Not all dog flea medications are created equal nor do they handle your problem in the same manner. Some flea medications destroy egg larvae or adult fleas while others will disrupt their entire life cycle.  Not all dog flea medications are dispensed in the same manner.  There are oral pills versus a liquid medicine that is applied topically.  Regardless of the flea medication, you need to choose which one will best apply to the situation you have at hand or you may find yourself using all of them.  As you may be able to notice by now, prevention is the easiest and most effective tool you can use to avoid any flea problem.  There are several types of dog flea medications you can select from, we recommend a company called jdoqocy.com/click-2114936-10439311?sid=articlesub Petcraze .

How to use Flea Medication Accurately
Posted below are some great tips and hints as to how to administer the proper flea medicine correctly:

Remember that some flea medications kill the flea while others work to interrupt the life cycle. Use whichever one works best for your situation or use both when in doubt.

Start prevention treatments early, as to stop the fleas from spreading. The earlier you start the easier it will be to eliminate or stop an infestation.

Buy a flea collar that will prevent eggs from hatching.

If you find that your dog is scratching herself profusely, take action now before the situation gets out of control.

Consider a liquid medicine if your dog has trouble with oral medications. You can mix this in their water if necessary.

Vacuum areas where your pet rests regularly and discard the bag or vacuum some flea powder into the bag immediately.

Consult your vet if you have concerns or questions regarding details of this infestation.

Follow instructions properly. Seems very simple, but many people seem to skip a few steps as they may consider them unimportant. Do not fall victim to this mistake.

Fleas can be a nuisance and ultimately a health risk for you and your canine companion, but with the proper dog flea medicination treatment, you can dismiss this pest from your home for good.

For more information regarding largedogbreedz.com/your-large-dogs-health/dog-parasites/ dog flea and tick prevention, largedogbreedz.com/your-large-dogs-health/large-dog-nutrition/ dog nutrition and health, please visit at largedogbreedz.com largedogbreedz.com

Dog body language is very simple to translate when you take a few minutes to observe basic actions. Let’s start with how Sam uses his dog behavior body language to tell you when he is unsure, insecure, and scared.

If Sam is insecure, his tail will be between his legs, and his head will be down, as he tries to avoid eye contact. His ears will be slightly back and down.

If he is unsure, he may crouch with a slightly wagging tail. Sam is neither trying to be friendly at this moment, nor is he making a threat. He is trying to decide what action is appropriate to take – fight or flight. You cannot pamper him at this moment, or he will stay in the half-way mode. He has to figure it out on his own.

Sam’s fur may also be up as he is sniffing you. Fur up with no teeth displayed just means that Sam is uneasy. Let him relax on his own. You cannot do that for Sam. He must do it. If you pet him at that time, he WILL react – with either a snap, or moving away (avoidance).

If Sam approaches you with his ears back and tail wagging, he is happy and eager to greet you. Ears back means the dog is submissive and presents no threat.

If Sam is terrified, his ears and head will both go down. His tail will curve slightly under with the tip touching his belly.

Okay, is Sam going to bite?

If Sam is going to do a warning bite, he will stare you down then do a sudden nip. He may bite suddenly if touched when nervous. If you see his lips twitch with a display of one canine, he is giving you a warning of his insecurity, or he is saying that he does not trust you. Do not touch!

If Sam is going to do an aggressive attack, his ears will go forward and he will lunge with all canine teeth bared. Trust me – That is clear!

One other way dogs bite is when they are claiming something. That is a dog dominance aggression situation. They are using their teeth to control. For example, you reach for the bone, and he bites you because of it.

If you receive a dog bite, let the dog complete his bite action. Then you will usually only have a puncture wound. If you pull your hand back in the middle of the bite, though, you can have a deep, jagged rip that leaves an ugly scar.

The most common way dogs share affection with one another is eye contact. Those quiet times when Sam is lying at your feet and suddenly stares intently into your eyes … that is one of the deepest ways dogs display love for one another. He truly loves you.

Spend special time each day watching your Sam. Learn his language. Then when confronted with another dog, remember the importance of reading dog body language. Determine from the dog’s body language behavior if the he is insecure, frightened, aggressive, or invitingly friendly before you pet him, and avoid unnecessary dog bites!

GET HELP from Rena Murray at the PawPersuasion.com Dog Obedience Training website. An accomplished Dog Behavior Modification expert, Dog Obedience Trainer, and Platinum Expert Author, Rena provides self-help Articles and free “Best Ezines”-recognized newsletter: PAW PERSUASION POINTERS to help you better understand communication and control of your dogs, debunk dog training myths, explore right and wrong dog training techniques for specific situations, address destructive dog behavior, excessive and obsessive dog behavior, and other canine issues, from new puppy to old dog. Subscribe for free at PawPersuasion.com, visit Rena’s BLOG – pawpersuasion.com/blog/ pawpersuasion.com/blog/ , find the dog products, crates, and gifts you need at PawPersuasion.com, and Contact Rena for mailto:rena@pawpersuasion.com Coaching

Westie dogs’ owners delight in the companionship their dogs give them during long and leisurely walks. But this activity should be one that brings pleasure to both.

How can you ensure that your dog also enjoys these activities?

First, you’ll need to get your dog accustomed to having his paws handled and manipulated.

These are important Westie health issues that come under the grooming umbrealla.

When your dog is tolerant of such treatment it would be easier for both you and the veterinarian to carefully scrutinize your dog if there are cuts or bruises on, in and around his paws.

Where should these foot exams take place? Pick a spot that’s comfortable for both of you, and is at the same time well-lit. Here’s how to do it. Put the dog’s paw in your hand. Run your finger around every pad. If you feel lumps, examine it closely to find out what it is.

Keep a pair of tweezers handy, to pull out bits of twig that may be stuck.

If the skin is broken, put anti-bacterial ointment or powder on the sore. Check the next day to ensure it heals completely.Refrain from taking a walk with your dog in the next couple of days, until the healing is completed.

Here’s what you should do if you find a lump in one foot that’s not present in the other foot. Get your dog to the vet. He or she may have an abscess or an interdigital cyst.

Examine and trim the paws regularly.

Regularly trim all the hair that’s out from between the pads. Don’t trim it too tight. If you see a matt of hair sticking out, cut it. Don’t strip or pull the hairs. It’s painful for your dog.

Here’s what to do if your pet’s paws are itchy. Look for these symptoms; the hairs and even the nails are a reddish brown. The pads are swollen. This means yeast and bacteria already be developing in the crevices between the pads and around the nails. Visit your vet so he or she can recommend medication to reduce the swelling and alleviate the itching.

Doing regular examinations on your crazyaboutwesties.com” target=”_blank Westies (Scottish in origin) dog’s paw prior to and after your walks, will make your dog eagerly await each sojourn.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

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Jeff Cuckson is Author of “Mad About Westies” Find out more on how
you can have the Healthiest and Happiest madaboutwesties.com/westie_dogs.html Westie Dogs

You’ve Always Dreamed Of by going NOW to madaboutwesties.com/ Mad About Westies
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Is you dog constantly scratching at its ears, shaking its head or rubbing its head against the furniture?

If so! Chances are your poor dog has a common ear disorder that can be promptly taken care of.

Ear infections are common in dogs and can cause everything from painful constant scratching to “stinky ears.”

There are several things that can cause these problems such as allergies, parasites, bacteria, microorganisms, heredity disorders and foreign objects.

Many of the “long eared” dogs are prone to many types of infection such as the Cocker Spaniel and the Basset Hound. Hairy eared dogs such as poodles and schnauzers are prone to ear wax build up and other ear problems.

These dogs are known to have what is called heredity disorders and need to have their ears checked and cleaned on a regular basis in order to prevent serious problems.

Some dogs have allergy problems and this can cause the ears to itch and become inflamed. If your dog has a tendency toward allergies either from its food or pollen in the air and you notice an ear problem beginning, contact your vet at once.

Common ear problems such as ear mites (actually more common in cats than dogs) can be treated with over-the-counter products or a prescribed product from your vet.

If you are unfamiliar with ear mites, they are a parasite, hard to see by the human eye, but leave dark brown debris in the ear that resembles coffee grounds. Ear mites cause severe itching in the ear.

If your dog spends a great deal of time outdoors and has the opportunity to run through weeds and thick brush. Be on the lookout for things like “foxtails” which can cling to the fur, get between your dog’s toes and get into the ear canal.

If your dog gets some foreign debris in its ear and it is not lying on the surface of the ear and can easily be removed with tweezers, do not take a chance and try to remove it yourself.

Doing this may cause more harm than good and create a serious problem for your dog and a big vet bill for you.
Foxtails are extremely dangerous in the ear as they are thorny and if all of it is not removed can create an infection.

Due to the unique L-shape of a dog’s ear (a vertical canal meets a horizontal canal and goes into the eardrum) dogs can suffer from moisture problems. Poor ear drainage and changes in the humidity can cause bacteria and microorganisms to inflame the outer ear canal. Your vet can prescribe eardrops to solve these problems.

So what can you do to help prevent some of these problems?

Check your dog’s ears every time you bathe or brush your dog. A healthy ear is pink in color and should not smell or have any kind of build up in it.

A cotton ballsoaked in an ear cleaning solution and rubbed around the inner ear is a good way to clean out dirt, clean only as far as you can see into the ear. DO NOT probe deep into the ear canal either with the cotton ball or a Q-Tip.

Poking further than you can see is only asking for trouble as you may be packing earwax into the ear canal or pushing other debris into it. Leave the probing to your vet.

There are liquid ear cleaners in the market place that you can purchase. Pour into the ear until it fills up, gently rub the ear to break up any dirt or debris and then let your dog shake its head to get rid of the fluid. Do this for both ears and then give your pet a well-deserved treat.

By keeping a constant check on your dog’s ears and doing some maintenance yourself you can reduce the chances of possible infection and save your dog from a painful experience.

Keeping our pets healthy is very beneficial not only to the pet, but to our pocketbooks. If the only time you need to visit the veterinarian is for yearly check ups and necessary shots you are saving money. If you enjoyed this article and are interested in reading more please visit my web site at cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

First of all, you must understand that Pekingese are not dogs! They are a combination of part human, part aristocrat, perpetual child, and part cat. There is no other breed like them.

You must also understand that if your idea of a pet dog is one who will sit adoringly at your feet (or in your lap), wait to jump at any command, be available to your every beck and call, the Pekingese is not for you. In most cases, Pekingese will slowly work their way into your home and before you know it YOU will be at THEIR beck and call. They will be extremely obedient—not to please you but only because they CHOOSE to please you. They will come and go as they please because that is what pleases them. They are not being truly disobedient but do so because they can see no reason to do otherwise. After all, they are special, aren’t they?

The Pekingese originated in China over 2000 years ago. Their only function was to carry the robes of the Chinese Imperial Court . Ownership of this dog was prohibited to any except royalty. During the Great China War of 1860, Franco-British forces marched on Peking . The invaders looted the summer place, and the Western world made its first acquaintance with the little Lion Dog of Peking . Five of these little dogs were found in the apartment of the Emperor’s aunt, who had delayed her flight too long and committed suicide when the Palace gates were stormed.

These five little creatures endeared themselves to their captors, who carried them back to England . One was presented to Queen Victoria and was named “Looty”. She lived a life of luxury for ten years in Windsor Palace until her death in 1872. All modern day Pekingese have descended from these five dogs. All the others were slaughtered so that no one would lay eyes on them, for to do so in China brought immediate and unmerciful death.

This background give you some idea of why Pekingese think they are a little bit better than anyone or anything else! It has been so bred into them that they continue this attitude today. So, if you want a whimsical personality, take delight in their independence, accept the fact that they are the bosses, then a Pekingese is the dog for you.

You are no doubt enthralled by the abundance of coat. While very eye-catching, you will pay the price to keep the glamour. If you are not prepared to groom at least once or twice a week, or have it professionally done, then this breed is not for you. The good thing is that they require very little trimming. The hair on the bottom of the feet covering the pads should be kept short. Also, both the male and female should have the hair neatly trimmed around the sheath of the male and the vulva of the female. Scissoring is not necessary on any other part of the coat unless you decide the coat is just too much to handle.

There are several cute cuts that can be done by a professional and which will still leave the dog looking like a Pekingese. I do not recommend that it should be totally shaved. Of coarse, as in all coated breeds, the length and quality of the coat will vary. If you buy from a breeder who is primarily producing show quality puppies, your puppy will have a lot of coat. I certainly recommend that you buy from this type of breeder. Puppies purchased from a pet store are of questionable parentage and will not mature to look like the Pekingese you see in the show ring. By the age of nine or ten months you should have some indication of what the coat will be like.

Generally speaking, Pekingese are amiable creatures but will not take kindly to being badgered by children. They are not mean by nature but will eventually retaliate if someone continues to abuse them. If there are small children in the family the Pekingese should have a place of their own, such as a crate, to escape to. Cats and Pekingese seem to have an affinity for each other and will probably become very good friends. It is not recommended that you have an aggressive dog in the same household as Pekingese will not back down, so matter the size or strength of the other animal.

Pekingese make good house pets, whereby they will have a domain to rule. Their favorite spot will probably be where you don’t want them, but you will put up with their wishes because you love and admire them. They need daily exercise but you shouldn’t expect them to be boundary trained so you will need a dog proof fence for them. They are easily trained to the leash and enjoy daily walks. The Pekingese is quite muscular and solidly built with most of their weight concentrated in the front quarters. For this reason, stairs should be avoided, and they should not be allowed to jump from high places such as the couch or bed. Since they are a long-backed dog, landing from a height could cause grave problems.

Pekingese are very tolerant of cold and will often prefer to be outdoors when you think they should be indoors. However, they are intolerant of heat and you must guard against them becoming over-heated during hot weather. Be sure they have plenty of fresh water and a cool place to lie. A basement is ideal, but they do not want to be away from the family. They love to lie on a stone hearth, a cool linoleum floor, or in front of a large floor fan. If you have a pool or pond in your yard, guard your Pekingese carefully!! They are not good swimmers and once their coat becomes saturated with water they will surely sink and drown.

Pekingese are really quite free of hereditary problems and if you buy from a reputable breeder should live a long healthy life of from ten to eighteen years. However, since this is a flat-faced breed you must guard against injury to the eyes. Because they have no snout to protect the eyes, they can be more easily injured than the eyes of some other breeds. “Peke proof” your yard. That means no long grass, rose bushes, and low tree branches—anything sharp they could bump into. Clean the eyes daily with a cotton ball and look for anything out of the ordinary. The first sign of injury is often watering or blinking.

If not noticed immediately the eye will turn a light blue and you may see a small indentation called an ulcer on the eyeball. Prompt veterinary attention should be sought so you can properly medicate it. I recommend that you always have a tube of chloramphenicol eye ointment on hand—injuries have a habit of happening on Sundays and holidays! Remember, the best remedy is prevention.

Welcome to the PEKINGESE ADDICTION SOCIETY! I hope you are prepared for a long and enjoyable relationship of being owned by your new pet. Your Pekingese will offer you many hours and years of enjoyment. There is NO other dog like them! If you have any questions, or need further information, please call me at any time. I’m always available to talk Pekingese.

Joy Thoms is a Pekingese dog breeder and shower with many championship titles for her dogs. To read more from Joy or to learn about the Pekingese breed, please visit windemerepekingese.com windemerepekingese.com

One of the most common misconceptions people have is that their own dogs won’t bite. While everybody feels some level of respect for a big, growling dog we are becoming too nonchalant about our own dogs. How confident are you that your dog will never bite anyone?

Do the words – Wouldn’t hurt a fly come to mind? We all think that our own dogs are gentle natured until they prove us otherwise.
Dog owners often claim their dogs are completely comfortable with children. I myself was bitten as a child it happens often and even usually mild mannered dogs can snap. Children are a little more vulnerable and a little snap that wouldn’t injure an adult can have dire consequences for a well-meaning child.

Dogs can inflict potentially life threatening injuries. Luckily my injuries were only superficial. Some corrective surgery and a few years of healing and the physical evidence have all but gone. Many are not as fortunate.

Tragically for the most part, these kinds of bites are completely avoidable. Dogs don’t bite people without provocation right?
Not quite. It’s true it does take some provoking to get a usually mild mannered dog to bite the triggers aren’t as obvious as you would think.

So why do dogs bite?

Experts still disagree as to whether dogs bite because of human provocation or breeding. While it is indisputable that certain breeds of dogs do bite more than others it’s also hard to argue with thousands of year’s worth of domestication. People have been trying to breed the aggressive out of the dog for the most part anyway.

There are some human behaviors that can provoke even docile dogs:

-Fiddling with their food: don’t disturb your dog (or any dog) while they are eating.

-Sudden movements can upset dogs, if a strange dog is growling at you its best to back away slowly.

-The old saying let sleeping dogs lie is true. Don’t startle a dog that is sleeping.

-Dogs have a powerful sense of territory, and may become upset when someone unfamiliar threatens their space.

-Don’t try to disrupt a dog fight.

-Dogs have strong maternal instincts and if there are puppies you should be careful not to startle the mother (or any adult dog the area).

-Dogs can be confused about the cause of their own illness or pain; they might think it was the owner who caused the pain and bite.

-Dogs become afraid just like humans any dog can bite if it feels it is in danger.

-All dogs experience some form of possessiveness. Tread carefully if a dog is growling at you chances are you’re on his turf.

-Looking a dog in the eyes is seen as a challenging of dominance. If a dog is growling at you lower your eyes and back away slowly.

Preventing dog bites starts with the owner. If you have a dog you can reduce the risk that your dog might attack someone with some of these suggestions.

-Have your dog spayed or neutered. Not only does it prevent many kinds of health problems later in life, it drastically reduces the aggression levels in male and female dogs.

-Start socializing your puppy at a young age. Get your puppy used to being in a busy and unfamiliar environment as soon as he is vaccinated.

-Invest in some kind of formal training program. This will give you an immense faith in your dog and strengthen the relationship between you two.

-Take your dog to the vet regularly and make sure all his vaccinations are always up to date. Get your dog licensed and keep up to date on all his paperwork.

-Never let your dog wander freely. Your dog should be contained on your property and you should be able to control his access to the street.

By following these very few and common sense steps you can reduce an attack or bites by a wide margin. Be a responsible owner and start working with your puppy or dog today.

Steve Allison loves writing about dogs and manages the website

You have finally managed to breed your dog and now you have an expectant mother. So what exactly do you do now? Well, there are plenty of things that you should do in order to take care of the mother to be and it all takes a little time, money and patience!

Things That Need to Be Done

If you want to earn good money from top quality puppies, you really need to look after them, both before they are born and afterwards! Unfortunately for many owners, this does mean that they have to spend quite a lot of money in order to raise them and protect them. So just what can you do to care for your pregnant dog?

Changing The Diet

As soon as your dog becomes pregnant, you may want to think about updating the diet. A good quality food that is suitable for pregnant dogs is advisable, as this will give the dog all of the necessary vitamins and minerals needed to keep her healthy. Remember that if the mother gets ill, the puppies can suffer and that is definitely something that you do not want to happen!

Getting The Dog Checked Over by a Vet

The thing that will cost the most money in the breeding process is getting the dog checked over frequently by a vet. You will need to take your dog to the vet fairly frequently and once the puppies are born, they also need to be looked at regularly. It is not like you can skip this part as you need to make sure that the puppies are healthy and that they are growing right inside the mother. So, regular vet checkups are essential and they can be quite costly!

Having a Vet on Call

As well as getting the dog checked over by the vet, it is usually a good idea to have a vet present while your dog is actually giving birth. All kinds of complications can occur and the mother and her puppies could potentially die if things do not go to plan. So, having a vet on hand will ensure that the puppies are born healthy and if any problems do arise, your dog can be treated there and then.

You really do need to take good care of the mother and her unborn puppies. Changing the diet and giving regular vet check ups will ensure that your dog and her puppies stay happy and healthy. Also, remember to provide a good, safe and quiet place for the mother to give birth and if the father of the puppies lives with you, ensure that he cannot get to the mother or puppies after the birth.

If you decide to breed your animal and want help selling the resulting puppies the best way to do so would be with a site to help you Petwebdesigner.com Sell Your Pets Check out Petwebdesigner.com Petwebdesigner.com for assistance getting a great site online to help you get top dollar!

Teaching the down command can be a dawnting task if you don’t use the proper techniques. The method that I’ve used to quickly train my dog involves three steps. First you must make sure that your dog understands what it must do when it is given the “down” command. Second, you must be certain that you have practiced the down command 3X a day for 5min. each time for a period of 1 week.. The last step is to use a technique I learned from Winnifred Strickland to teach your dog the down command by signal rather than by a verbal command.

Without further adieu, here’s my three step plan. First find a secluded location where there are no distractions. Put your dog’s choke collar and leash on and use a little bit of kibble as enticement for the next three days. Now, take one kibble in you hand, bring it up close to your dogs mouth, move you hand down to the ground as you dog tries to nibble at it and say the command “down”. You will need to repeat this process 3x/day for 5min. for the next three days.

From day 4-7 repeat your training again in a secluded area where there are no distractions for your dog. Except, now, in step two, do not use food as an enticement. This time take the right front paw of you dog and stretch it forward. At the same time, grab the dog’s choke collar and gently push your dog over to its side as you say the command “down”.

Now, you’re ready for the third phase of your training session. As before, set up an environment where your dog won’t be distracted. Put the collar and leash back on, stand next to your dog, and say the command “down” and see if you dog will respond. If your dog responds, then great, you’re done. However, most dog’s won’t respond to your command because the down command is putting them in a submissive position and they prefer not to be told what to do. At this point you know that your dog understands what is expected of it and it is still refusing to obey.

In order to complete the third phase of your dog’s training, stand in front of your dog with your leash at hand and say the command “down”. When your dog refuses to obey, gently tap the tip of its nose with the palm of your fingers as your point to the ground. You dog must be able to see you point to the ground. ONLY repeat this procedure once or twice per session because you don’t want to give your dog the impression that you’re hitting it. Repeat this procedure for the next 3 days. On the 4th day, follow the same procedure except with one variation. This time simply hold the palm of your hand over your dog’s head, look into its eyes, and see if it obeys your command. If your dog does not respond, again tap its nose gently with the palm of your fingers and say the command “down”. The key to the last technique is to be GENTLE and not use a lot of force when tapping the tip of your dog’s nose. Within a matter of a few days, your dog will respond to you command and “down” with your signal rather than with your verbal command.

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice, information, and articles regarding many aspects of professional dog training for all those who are not professional dog trainers themselves. For more articles like this one, visit his website at newdogtrainingsecrets.com newdogtrainingsecrets.com .