The other day, I was invited to see my friend’s new horse. He had her for about a month before I got to see her. When I arrived at his house, he met me outside and said, “C’mon…let’s go see her.” We stood at the fence and marveled at how beautiful she was. Excited, he asked, “You wanna pet her?” “Sure!” I said. So my friend grabbed the halter and went after her.

As I watched him chase her I was reminded of those silent movies where everyone is moving comically fast with the music in the background. As I chuckled to myself I heard him ask aloud, “Why does she keep running from me?”

That was a good question. Lots of people have that trouble. There are lots of reasons horses run from their owners. One reason is fear. Horses are the epitome of fear. If they sense their life is in danger they’ll run.

If a horse is comfortable with their herd, even if its one or two other horses, it can be uncomfortable for him. His entire DNA speaks loud and clear to him that the herd is the safest place to be. Therefore, if he leaves the herd it could mean his life is threatened – at least…that’s his thinking.

One of the biggest mistakes I see are new horse owners that make their horse work almost every time they go to see them. Picture it. You’re a horse standing there with your buddies. It’s ninety-four degrees out side, the flies won’t leave you alone, and you were doing fine just standing there doing nothing – thank you very much. And because you are enormously alert due to your innate fear, you quickly spot your owner coming to you holding that weird looking, not-so-good-fitting rope thing that goes on your head.

The last 400 gazillion times your owner walked toward you with it in his hand, he accidentally jabbed your cheek while clumsily jerking it on your head. Then he made you leave your friends and go run in circles for thirty minutes. Boring!

Rather, the horse owner should alternate working and pleasure for his horse. In other words, one day walk to your horse with the halter in your hand and pet him. Talk to him. Tell him how beautiful he is. Take your halter and rub it on his body as if it were a brush. Get him thinking that the halter will give him pleasure so when he sees it he’ll feel good about it.

The next day, with halter in hand, go see your horse and pet him. Talk nice. Then put his halter on. Pet him again. Keep talking nice. After a few minutes, take the halter off and rub his body with it. Then walk away.

Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.” For a while, alternate when you ask your horse to work versus not work and take your halter with you each time to keep him guessing, “Is he gonna pet me and tell me I’m purty, or are we going to work a little? I’m guessing he’ll pet me so I’ll stay put.”

Other reasons horses run from their owners is they may lack good training. Another reason is maybe the horse is getting positive reinforcement at the wrong time. How can that be? A horse could learn to run from his owner – and if he does he gets a carrot or some kind of temptation AFTER he runs.

So how do you stop the running and catch your horse?

It depends why the horse runs. If your horse is fearful then you need to get his trust back. You do that by doing positive things with your horse. When you catch him, don’t ask him to work. Get out your brush and groom him. He’ll like that. You want him to think of being with you as a pleasant experience – one that he wants when he sees you. This is especially crucial if you’re going to take him away from his buddies in the herd.

Because the horse feels safe being with his buddies in the herd, you must make him feel safe being taken out of the herd. Thus, when you catch him you can groom him and give a good experience to make him feel safe.

A good practice is to put your horse in a small pen and go up to him. Teach him that it’s good to be with you. This will give you a good foundation to catch him later when he’s in an open field.

Another nifty trick you can do is use lunging to teach your horse to come you. Don’t simply run him in boring circles. Have him change directions, go over and through obstacles, etc. Make sure to praise him when he does well and give him rest. Don’t run him into the ground. If you do, he’ll go back to thinking you’re going to make him work real hard.

As you’re lunging him, use commands to get him to do what you want him to do. As you and he get good at this, he’ll respond much better to you in the open field.

A mistake many people make is chasing the horse to try and catch him. You simply can’t do it. They’re too fast and agile. Not only that, it tends to reinforce a horse’s instinct of being preyed upon and they need to get to safety…which means…get away from you.

Sometimes you can use another horse to help you catch a horse by being buddies with the horse you don’t want to catch. If you go to pet a horse it can sometimes draw the horse you want to catch. He may want petted too.

Be sure to never punish a horse once you catch him. First, he won’t know why he got in trouble. And second, it’s a great way to get him to NOT want to be with you. If he doesn’t want to be with you, he will evade you often.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at horsetrainingandtips.com” target=”_new www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training methods which can be seen at horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm” target=”_new www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

First what good is bird poop? Birds are masters at disguising illness. Budgies are notorious for keeling over out of the clear blue. Why? Parrots are “Prey” birds. Nature implanted the thought “lookout for animals that want to make me dinner.” Everything from a parasitic bird called the Horsfield’s hawk-cuckoo lays an egg in the nest of another bird species, such as the bushrobin to one mammal that may be an effective predator of parrots is the False Vampire Bat (Vampyrum spectrum). This is the largest bat in the New World with a wingspan of nearly 3 ft. It flies by night and locates birds as they sleep. It then carries its prey back to its roost where it feeds

An adult Green-winged Macaw has been seen captured by a Brown Capuchin Monkey as the macaw waited in the trees above a clay lick in Peru. It is much more common for parrots to fall prey to raptorial birds like an Ornate Hawk-Eagle (a bird with a 4 ft. wingspan). As a group, the falcons are effective predators of many birds and among the world’s best fliers. The Peregrine Falcon is the world’s fastest bird and can reach speeds of 200 mph in a dive. This bird is likely a threat to parrots wherever it occurs.

“Safety in numbers,” a defensive weapon natures implants in birds is their ability to disguise illness. The beak is an individual defensive weapon. But in nature Illness means weakness to a predator. Birds of an individual species all look the same. You can’t feel their beak like you can a dog’s nose. Forget about a rectal thermometer. (Rapid changes in weight are another indicator) But looking at poop may enable you to diagnose illness in a bird (that’s a whole article in itself) who is not displaying any noticeable symptoms of illness.

Bird poop is also a medium to cultivate nature. Think about it. You’re driving through the country and some folks are fishing at a small lake in the middle of nowhere. What are they fishing for? If there are fish, where did they come from? In many cases, bird poop! Birds are scavengers. People tell us our cockatiel will only eat THIS!. I say go to Australia and you’ll find cockatiels (and certain Cockatoos) are the pigeons of that continent. Birds will eat fish, dead or alive. some of those fish may be pregnant. The birds will eat the fish and the eggs, fly to another small area of water and poop out the fish eggs while looking for more food. Those fish eggs may become someone’s dinner when they grow up. So the next time you kneel down to clean the poop around your bird’s cage, think about all the good it can do-do.

Mitch Rezman

Mitch Rezman is the general manger of WindyCityParrot.com. He fields a large volume of calls and email daily regarding the health and well being of our beloved feathered companions

WindyCityParrot.com/ http”//www.windycityparrot.com/.

We humans are the caretakers of our pets. It is our responsibility, our duty to not march blindly to the veterinarian for yet another rabies vaccination without questioning whether it is in the best interests of the animal, or the doctor’s livelihood. Here are some facts you may not be aware of, and how you can play an active role in your pet’s welfare.

–Many of our pets are acquiring autoimmune diseases, behavioral problems like phobias and aggressive behavior, and some are dying—all from vaccinossis, being over-vaccinated by the very veterinarians we count on to keep them alive and disease-free. Often these diseases don’t show up for years, and we wonder how and why.


–Tumors can become a problem in the areas where most shots are given. Be safe. Feel around those areas frequently or when grooming, to be sure there are no lumps developing. If there are, have them examined.


– Veterinarians will argue the laws of their state require repeated annual rabies and other six-month vaccines. Rabies laws differ among the states, but any vet worth his license will tell you annual rabies shots are not necessary, and can be deadly. Every pet owner has a right to request a waiver of these shots. Some states will authorize it, others will not.

Advances In Medicine/Challenging Annual Rabies Shots

Doctors of Veterinary Medicine rely heavily on the income they receive from repeated animal visits for vaccinations; many still give multiple vaccines to every dog and cat that comes in the door. Thanks to organizations like The American Association of Feline Practitioners, the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) and extensive research by people like Dr. Ronald Schultz of the University of Wisconsin, a different rabies vaccine policy is emerging within the veterinary community to modify treatment by giving the least vaccines possible to maintain a healthy Garfield and Fido.

Here’s some encouraging news on changing vaccine protocols from Dr. Ronald Schultz, head of Pathobiology at the University of Wisconsin:

– “I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every three years to appease those who fear loss of income versus those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions, or the doctor’s economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decisions.”

In his clinical studies, Dr. W. Jean Dodds, DVM (938 Stanford Street, Santa Monica, CA 90403, (310) 828-4804; FAX (310) 828-8251) writes:

– “Puppies and kittens receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should not be vaccinated at less than 8 weeks.”

My own breeder waited 12 weeks. Does this make you think about whether pet stores and puppy mills consider this important protocol?

Caution–The Better Part of Valor

I do not write this to put fear in the hearts of pet owners. Fear causes us to make wrong decisions in a state of panic. But we should not trust someone simply because he/she has an MD or DVM next to their name. My personal experience is an example of what a rabies vaccine can do to a healthy dog or cat, when the shot is given too frequently. Keep in mind there are those who advocate not giving it at all after the initial puppy/kitty shots.

Too Close For Comfort

Two weeks ago my healthy, energetic, playful, bright-eyed little dog almost died after moving from one state, where the three-year rabies requirement prevails, to another state that requires annual rabies vaccination, regardless of the vaccine used (there are different manufacturers).

–Within four hours of receiving her second annual shot plus six-month boosters of other “required” shots, my dog would not eat or drink water; she could not walk. When we tried standing her up she stood like a glassy-eyed statue; she could not relieve herself; she was paralyzed.

–My vet admitted he’d seen this reaction before in various dog breeds (dachshunds, golden retrievers) and cats; that it depends not on size, breed, or species, but on how the manufacturer’s vaccine is tolerated by the animal. He then cavalierly gave her a cortisone shot and said she should be fine in a couple of days. Shots, Shots, Shots! “Next time we’ll add some Benedryl beforehand,” he added.

–It took four days for her to recover from a zombie to a normal dog. Others have not been that lucky, and have died days after receiving annual rabies vaccines. If your state will allow it, your vet can write a waiver of the annual shot.

In our society children and animals have no rights. And like toddlers, house pets depend on us for everything from health care to daily needs. Dogs and cats possess acute senses we do not. As a result, they have saved our lives and loved us unconditionally. In fact, in the case of the dog, migratory humans would never have made it through ice age and millennia without the adaptable dog. We owe canine and feline to not put them at risk, to never consciously fail them—to always question.

Read: Catherine O’Driscoll’s “Shock to the System” and “What Vets Don’t Tell You about Vaccines.”

As a freelance writer/editor I have the freedom to establish a friendly one-on-one relationship with each client. I focus on one manuscript or one new release or the text of one book jacket at a time, and I see them through to completion. Not only is this method cost effective, the client receives my full attention until completion of the project. Check out my website for further informatiion about how I can help you with your work. Beginner or seasoned writer, the process is the same. Signed copies of my novel The Sword & The Chrysanthemum, Journey of the Heart are available in paperback directly from me at reduced rates. Or, you can get unsigned copies at standard rates from Amazon.com and bn.com. The ebook is also available. susanscharfman.com susanscharfman.com

Few things can make one’s heart melt like a new puppy, and few breeds of puppies have the enduring charm and warmth like a Labrador puppy. It should come as no surprise that the Labrador puppy is the most popular breed of dog in the United States and United Kingdom. The Labrador puppy is more than cute though, they are also good natured, energetic, and one of the fastest learning breeds. However, despite all of their positive attributes, prospective Labrador puppy owners need to know that it takes some work and research to help them select the Labrador puppy that is best suited for them.

The first thing to remember when considering a Labrador puppy is that it is a pure bred dog, therefore it is incumbent on the potential owner to find a competent, responsible, and knowledgeable breeder. A good breeder of Labrador puppies will conduct health tests on the male and female adult Labradors before breeding. This will help ensure that your puppy is healthy and free of disease. Competent Labrador puppy breeders also consider genetics when breeding dogs, and they will only breed dogs that have excellent temperaments. Good breeding will help give you a Labrador puppy that possesses all the great traits that they are known for.

When it comes time to select a puppy from a litter, be careful and cautious in order to avoid the pitfalls that trap many Labrador puppy owners. It seems natural for someone to see the puppy that approaches them first, or the one that seems the most affectionate and friendly, to be the “pick of the litter.” However, this selection technique can often lead owners astray, and when they select a Labrador puppy with those traits they are often selecting the most forceful and domineering puppy in the litter. Remember that the calmer and gentler Labrador puppy that approaches you cautiously, or watches you from the background, is often the puppy that is most likely to be an obedient, enjoyable pet.

It is equally important to look for the Labrador puppy that seems very shy or even scared. While one should steer clear of the most outgoing and aggressive Labrador puppies, they should be equally concerned with Labrador puppies that are timid, nervous, or shy. The shy Labrador puppy often grows up to be a shy, scared dog that is quick to bark or snap at anything that scares it.

Once you have eliminated the most bold, and the most bashful, your best bet is to focus your attention on the Labrador puppy that possesses traits that are more “in the middle.” A well suited Labrador puppy should be curious, friendly, and cautiously interested in you and what you are doing. Move the puppy away from his littermates and see how he reacts to you. Once you find that puppy that acts well in a crowd, or alone, likes to wag his tail, and likes to be in your company, you may have found that special Labrador puppy that will become part of your family.

For easy to understand, in depth information about labrador puppy visit our ezGuide 2 labradors.ezguide2.com Labradors.