Posts from — September 2008

Before you bring a Staffordshire bull terrier puppy into your home, make sure you know what owning a ‘Staffy’ entails. Bear in mind that the cute little puppy you have set your heart on will grow into a powerful and muscular animal which will require firm handling and lots of time and energy. This breed of dog is very strong and requires firmness and consistency while training. You need to be sure that you wish to commit yourself to your dog’s welfare for the next 10 -12 years.

Of course, the Staffordshire bull terrier has many wonderful inherent characteristics – he is a dog with special intrinsic qualities, which makes him an endearing pet. The Stafford is renowned for its affinity with humans and is exceptionally good with children and infants. Adored and adoring within their own family circle, these dogs are more than happy to share your home with you rather than spending long periods on their own in a kennel. They really enjoy getting involved in family activities like car rides, going on hikes and walks, romping on the beach, and especially cuddling up with you when you settle down for an evening of TV watching or reading. Staffords will also often be boisterously welcoming with visitors and you and your friends have to be ready for this. These dogs are incredibly like humans in a furry form!

Although each dog will have its own individual personality traits, there are some personality characteristics common to all dogs of this breed. Staffords are tough, courageous, tenacious, and stubborn by temperament. They are also very protective, curious, active, quick and agile. The Staffordshire bull terrier is highly intelligent and being ever eager to please, he will give you and your family a lifetime of devotion.

As puppies, these dogs need to chew on anything they can set their teeth into and need a safe alternative to furniture, toys and clothing for their busy jaws. Stafford puppies love to play rough, but you must make it clear right from the start who is the boss. This is not a difficult task if you begin working with your Staffie when she or he is a puppy. Puppies require a lot of time and patience and to housebreak will require double the effort and twice the patience. Of course, these puppies love people and need to be comforted and loved in return.

When a Stafford shows its teeth in a snarl, it can be rather disconcerting. They look tough and strikingly menacing, but because of their natural fondness for people, DO NOT make good guard dogs. These dogs can be trained for agility and competitive obedience.

The Staffordshire bull terrier does everything with persistence, passion and intensity. Totally fearless and curious, these dogs love a challenge and variety. These energetic dogs are active from dawn to dusk, and are unable to be left for long periods without outside stimulation. Whilst they thrive on being with people, they react if challenged by another dog. Born fighters, these dogs possess the strength and tenacity of the Bulldog with the exceptional athletic ability of the Terrier. Staffords also have no fear of traffic and sadly often become road accident victims.

These trustworthy dogs with their sound temperament are faithful companions to humans all through their life.

Donal Keenan is editor and publisher of staffybullterriers.com/” target=”_blank Staffordshire Bull Terriers Website.

Visit his staffybullterriers.com/” target=”_blank Staffordshire Bull Terrier forum for more info on the dog breed and to meet with other Staffy lovers.

Once you have decided that a Labrador Retriever is the right dog for you and your family, you are now ready to begin the search for a puppy that will hopefully be an ideal pet for the entire household, one that will be fun training to retrieve and can be used as such during the hunting season.

Whether it would be a male or a female is something that you need to decide before buying a Labrador Retriever. For those who want to acquire a hunting dog, a male is preferable because a female may come in heat just when she is needed as a retriever. However, in other circumstances, there is really not much difference; each sex has advantages and disadvantages. Either will wander if enticed away by neighboring dogs, or stay at home to be
with their family.

For the prospective dog owner, a good way to find the right Lab is to go to dog shows. There are dog magazines that you can buy that list the shows with dates and where they are going to be held. At a dog show, talk with as many people as possible, especially with those who will put you in touch with active breeders. Unfortunately, many successful breeders are
“kennel blind,” believing so strongly in their own type of Labrador that they do not see the faults in their stock. However, breeders are flattered when a serious beginner asks their advice; and the more intelligent the questions asked, the more interest there is in helping the new breeder to get started. The successful breeder is the one with many satisfied customers, and it is important for the beginner to talk with owners of Labradors from some of these kennels before visiting the place.

This is a big country, and you may end up buying a high-priced puppy from a person you have never seen, so you have to make sure that you will get what you are paying for. This involves talking with a great many Labrador owners and breeders and eventually deciding
upon a breeder whose advice you believe to be trustworthy. No one is infallible; miracles rarely happen and we never get perfection, but with proper research and planning, mistakes can be minimized when buying a puppy which you hope will be a superior, all-purpose pet.

At first, the beginner can rarely see the difference between one puppy or dog within a breed and another, especially if they are all the same color. It takes constant training of the eye to distinguish various differences between the Labradors one has the opportunity to see. Also, there is more involved than visual appearance in selecting the ideal puppy. A beginner will be more capable in choosing the right breeder than the right puppy and should rely upon the breeder to make the selection.

About the author:

Melissa Glenney is the owner of three wonderful Labrador Retrievers. To get more info on Labradors or in dog breeders in general, go to ILoveLabradorRetrievers.com ILoveLabradorRetrievers.com

To find out “How to Pick the Perfect Dog Breeder”, go to ILoveLabradorRetrievers.com/PerfectBreeder ILoveLabradorRetrievers.com/PerfectBreeder

Taking care of your pets can be quite taxing. This is especially true if your pet is not housebroken. The first few weeks – or even months, if your pet takes some time to learn – of trying to train your pet can prove to be very frustrating. Aside from getting your pets to learn the rules of the house, every home owners fear is that their dogs – not knowing much about living in a home – could start wreaking havoc on the furnishings of the home.

Having pets at home can be quite hard on your furniture – especially your carpets and walls. Dogs scratch and claw and relieve themselves whenever and wherever they see fit. While training your dogs, you will have to deal with a lot of urine and fecal stains. And if you feel that you are over your head and already considering popping up your surrender flag, there is some good news for you. You can deal with these stains easily and effectively.

First of all, to avoid having to go through all this, you might want to ensure that your pets are trained so that they do not cause that much trouble. Make sure you make urinating on carpets and furniture as uncomfortable and as uninviting as possible. This involves consistently, yet gently, showing your dogs the permitted area for it to relieve itself.

Cleaning after them can be quite a fuss. Luckily there are means of cleaning your carpet that are efficient and practical.

1. Train you dog not to urinate at an area – make the right place for your pet to relieve itself inviting and easy to access. And make your living room a place they wouldn’t want to urinate on. This can be done by covering some of your furnishings with vinyl material.

Show your dog how you clean and soak up its urine form carpets and then show take the soiled towels and newspapers to the area you want your dog to relieve on.

2. Search and Destroy – The problem with some urine stains is that when they dry off, they become harder to spot. Some intrepid owners use their keen sense of smell – just like their dog’s – and sniff at the carpets to find the offending spot.

This technique does not work for all – especially those that are a little queasy at sniffing such stuff. You can also use a black light bulb. Most stains, even if they are dry and months old, will show when shone on by black light lamps.

3. Use appropriate cleansers – For rags and small materials that fit washing machines, use your usual detergent with some baking soda. This helps fight odor and stains. If it is your carpet that is stained use a commercial urine remover. There many of these available commercially. You can try to searching for them on the internet for one that fits your particular needs and material.

4. Soak up what is there – Before dumping a load of urine remover on a soiled carpet. Soak up what can be absorbed using paper towels and newspapers. Removing such will make cleaning the carpet much simpler and easier to manage.

5. Use wet vac – For deep and severely stained carpets, you might want to use a wet vac or even a steam vacuum. These vacuums are very effective at thoroughly cleaning your carpets. If you do not own one, you can rent one from any nearby housekeeping service in your locality.

8. Use odor neutralizers – To counter stubborn residue odors use a commercially available deodorizer. There are some products that specifically cater to pets and urine. They are the ones you will want to look at.

Michael Louis is a dog lover with a passion for knowledge who enjoys sharing his dog cleaning care secrets. Now that you know how to remove that

You cannot, not love, a pygmy goat. These highly intelligent beings appeal to all the biological imperatives that make babies and Webster beloved by all–despite their generally appalling behavior, excessive drinking and propensity to dirty diapers–well, Webster could be trained to change his own diapers, I guess, if it weren’t for the excessive drinking. Pygmy goats have the out-sized head and feet, stumpy bodies and incalculable cuteness that flips our inner switches into “protect the baby” mode.

Its reward enough to simply sit, for hours, with a pygmy goat in your lap and stare into their eyes while they regurgitate the ingesta from their rumen and ruminate on it. Sheep and goats produce 10-15 liters of saliva per day to assist in the digestive process; along with 5-10 liters of belched gas an hour. You laugh, but compare this to a cow–these excessively larger animals produce over 100 liters of saliva per day. The lovability spit limit is about 50 liters of saliva per day. Less than this and an animal is cuddly, more than fifty and an animal simply becomes too special to be hugged for extended periods. This saliva limit essentially divides the animal kingdom into pets and table gravy.

Still, these statistical invariants do define the limit of the pygmy’s inherent pet-ness. They consume prodigious quantities of cellulose to drive this belching, spitting engine at maximum efficiency and, somehow, the results of this digestion must come flying out somewhere. Imagine. Just don’t imagine the pygmy goat taking up residence next to you on the couch.

Fortunately their pellets are quite small and quite hard; little round objects that are easily swept off the back deck; not so easily plucked from the shag carpet. They cannot be housetrained because they are proud animals and proud of their output. Dogs will kick grass over their effluent and run away, goats will sleep on it. In fact, male goats urinate on themselves during the mating season as the smell drives the ladies crazy–in a good way.

Also, keep in mind that pygmy goats are prey animals; dogs and cats are predators. This distinction drives much of the goat’s behavior. Goats are Zen-like in their calm alertness, but stoic and controlled in their responses. Their tails wag when they’re happy, like dogs, but once they’ve signaled happiness they return to that state of quiet observation that defines much of their being. They don’t keep wagging the stupid tail for hours on end, constantly demanding that the whole world know they’re the happiest thing ever in the history of happiness and if you’re not quite as happy as they are because you don’t have a real job and your car needs new tires that you can’t really afford, well, they just don’t care. And the damn tail just keeps wagging even when you try to catch it under the rocking chair or stomp on it with your foot. Soooo.

Because goats are prey animals they always try to hide their feelings. Even when you love them so much it hurts and you just want to make a connection, any connection, but they just stare back at you. This prey psychology means that they will not tell you they’re sick until its almost too late. A goat that acts sick is on death’s door. If you’re not really experienced, get them to the vet immediately because you only have a few hours before this beloved pet, who just won’t share their emotions or acknowledge the depth of your feelings, is going to die any minute. Why are you waiting, get the car keys, grab the goat, run for the door, but know; it’s already too late. You tried, but you’ll always have that nagging doubt, did you try hard enough–just like your last marriage. You know it was her fault, but was it really?

Anyway, enjoy your pet. Pygmy goats, like babies, are wonderful.

Steven Grant is the co-author of Meet the Goat Kids and The Goat Kids Explore the Woods. After 25 years of comparatively successful work as a Fortune 500 corporate executive he is now making his living as a writer. “Living” being loosely defined as using up your savings while waiting for the application at 7/11 to be approved. A night job at 7/11 could provide a chance to establish a broad network of potentially lucrative future contacts amongst the working poor, many hours of zero activity (after carefully re-stacking the spoiled food among the unspoiled food) within which to write, perchance to dream, and next month’s rent. Please visit our website at goatkids.net goatkids.net and buy something or those incredibly cute pygmy goats are going to be schmoo pancakes once we run out of feed. Or visit the website and read something so compelling that you just have to sign me on to do your next screenplay or ghost write your next novel. After all you now have more money than time, just like I used to have, and dammit you know you’d like to stamp your imprimature on the arc of history.

Some people wonder if they can replace aquarium gravel. This is debatable for many reasons,
such as the fact that bacteria live on surfaces in the tank and anything will have an impact on the
life in your tank especially on the bacteria colonies. If you have your water testing kit and know
what to look for, you certainly can change your gravel, but keep in mind that your fish would
probably be happy with natural colors such as those found in nature. Try to stay away from the
bright blues and greens that are on the market.

The most important aspect of changing your gravel is planning ahead. Make a checklist and get
everything ready before you start. This can prove to be less stressful for you and your fish. The
main idea of changing this is to cause as little stress on your fish as possible. Changing gravel is
a big job and it means upsetting what they are used to in their tank. You have to find an
alternative holding tank, which can be a 10 gallon bucket. If you use a bucket from home, make
sure that no chemicals or detergents wherever used in it.

A few days before you want to clean top of your tank with water, you have to test your water to
make sure the ammonia and nitrite levers are zero. If they are not then you have to fix this
problem first before you attempt to change your gravel. Do not feed your fish the day of the
change. This will cut down on the waste in the bucket. It is very important now that you have
everything on your checklist in place.

Rinse the new gravel until you have clear water. Place your holding tank as close to the main
tank as possible. Turn off the filter to your main tank. This is temporary and you have to siphon
off the water from the main tank to the bucket very quickly. Place any decorations you may have
in the main tank in the holding tank. Quickly net the fish and transfer them to the holding tank.
Add enough aged water to the main tank to allow the filter to run. Then turn the filter back on.
Scoop out the old gravel and discard it. Vacuum the bottom of the tank and put in the new
gravel. Move your decorations back in and then move your fish back to the main tank. You will
need to feed them less than regularly on the day you change the gravel, but can continue on a
regular routine the next day.

For lots of information on

Whether he’s a puppy or an adult, playful or a lazybones, your dog needs good rest. Especially as your dog grows older and becomes more vulnerable to issues with his joints and bones, where and how he rests becomes increasingly important. In addition to that, a dog who was once able leap in and out of his bed can start become stressed and irrational if, due to health problems, he has lost some mobility. While there are several ways to deal with this issue, an orthopedic bed can take care of them and provide other benefits besides.

An orthopedic bed is simply one that has been made with some sort of “memory” material, that is, a soft cushioning substance that will cradle the joints and bones. The advantage is that as the weight of the dog’s body sinks into the cushion, it is kept still. On a firmer, less elastic surface, the dog merely rests on top of the bed and his legs and body are more prone to moving and, if the dog has had some healthy issues, prone to re-injury. Conversely, an orthopedic dog bed will hold hurting body parts still and provide a more stable environment for the dog to heal.

An orthopedic bed is not for all dogs. When you purchase a puppy, for instance, you will want to spend some time looking at his sleep and play habits before trying to find out what bed will suit him the best. Find out what spots comfort him. Does he prefer an enclosed space or an open top? Orthopedic beds are actually more suitable for older dogs and are especially ideal for dogs that suffer from issues with their legs and hips, and for dogs that have developed arthritis. The benefits of the orthopedic bed in making these dogs comfortable and more able to rest, so they can restore some of their precious energy.

When the time comes to purchase an orthopedic bed for your beloved pet, there are a number of things to keep in mind. One is to determine the sturdiness of the bed. If your dog is larger (and remember that larger dogs are extremely prone to the early onset of bone and joint problems) you will want to test the bed for a sturdy base and frame. Make sure that the pad itself is made out of a strong material, because your dog will probably end up being quite hard on it.

A pet store is where you want to begin your search for a good orthopedic dog bed. Your local vet might be able to give you an idea who sells the best ones, have a recommendation, or even sell them herself! If you do not mind shopping for something sight-unseen, you will be able to find plenty of options online. There are many sizes and styles, just keep in mind that your dog will most likely be comfortable in a larger bed than a smaller one.

To keep your canine companion in top shape and to make him as comfortable as possible, watch him and keep in mind that if he seem uncomfortable and unable to sleep, there is definitely something you can do about it!

For more information on or orthopedic dog bed be sure to check out dogkindercare.com/dogbed/orthopedicdogbed.html orthopedic dog bed site. Visit dogkindercare.com for all variety of dogkindercare.com/dogbed/ dog beds

The species of Real Canadian Ferrets are a hot topic among ferret lovers because they are rare to get your hands on. Real Canadian Ferrets are generally spayed or neutered when you are able to purchase them and are an excellent pet to have due to the genetic line that they display. The Real Canadian ferrets are the same as the popular Hagan ferrets and are bred by the same commercial breeders.

All About Real Canadian Ferrets

Real Canadian ferrets are not different from any other ferret with the exception that all of these Real Canadian Ferrets are supposed to be spayed or neutered before getting them from the breeder. These Real Canadian Ferrets are only available through the breeders and many have them however, they are expensive and can be identified by an ‘x’ tattoo in the left ear. They have the same mannerisms as well as the same disposition of other breeds and as far as one can tell, they call them Real Canadian Ferrets so that they can charge a bit more for something that sounds historical or that is holds some significant value in the ferret community. This isn’t true and all ferrets are really they same as they are not graded and sought after by pedigrees or grand champion lines like other small animal pets. Animal shows for dogs and cats are often judged and graded on a point system as well as purebred however the Real Canadian Ferrets can be seen in shows next to a ferret that was acquired privately and neither has more advantage for winning.

Real Canadian Ferrets and Feeding

Feeding Real Canadian Ferrets is the same as feeding any other ferret and it is essential that the ferrets get enough protein in the meals. This does not mean by any stretch of the imagination that you should feed your ferret raw meat because this is something you should never do. They cannot handle raw meat and it may have disastrous results for the Real Canadian Ferrets or chocolate however, a pet food that is high in quality and made specifically for the ferrets in an acceptable diet. In order to feed them treats, it must be fruits and vegetable only and not too many treats as it could make them sick. When selecting the food for the Real Canadian Ferrets or any other ferrets, be especially conscious not to purchase any fish based ferret foods as the ferrets don’t like it and it is not particularly good for them.

If you want to learn more

The 1964 musical “My Fair Lady” features a song entitled “Wouldn’t It Be Loverly?” with music by Frederick Loewe, lyrics by Alan Jay Lerner. In that song, Eliza sings: “All I want is a room somewhere, Far away from the cold night air, With one enormous chair. Oh, wouldn’t it be loverly?”

Parrots, were they able to verbalize, might sing a similar tune: “All I want is a cage somewhere, Strong and spacious, but not too bare, With tender, loving care. Oh, wouldn’t it be loverly?”

Parrot Cages

Just as parrots come in many sizes, parrot cages vary from small to large. They come in rectangles and cylinders, plain and fancy. Parrot cages can be difficult to purchase, and the savvy buyer will do research before attempting to do so. Four of the factors to be considered are given here, but you will want to discuss your final purchase with a knowledgeable dealer.

1. Parrot Breed and Size

The breed and size of your parrot figure strongly in the consideration of available parrot cages.

Large birds need sufficient space to stretch big wings, climb around, and enjoy healthy exercise. Large parrot cages are needed for parrots in the size range of African Grey Parrots, Amazons, Cockatoos, and Macaws. Large parrot cages should be made of steel or metal, and have a bar spacing of one or more inches. Any smaller spacing in large parrot cages will permit your parrot to get caught and injure itself.

Medium parrot cages are good for medium size parrots such as Caiques, Cockatiels, Conures, and Senegals. Medium parrot cages should have steel or metal bars spaced 1/2 to 5/8 inch apart. Parrot cages with larger or smaller bar spacing may allow your bird to be injured.

If you have a small parrot such as a Budgerigar (Budgie), Lovebird, or Parrotlet, you will need to look at small parrot cages. Small parrot cages also should be of steel or metal, since all parrots love to chew. Bar spacing should be 1/2 inch or less in small parrot cages.

2. Configuration

The configuration of parrot cages is the size and shape. Since parrots like to climb and fly, parrot cages need to be tall. Even the most basic, small parrot cages should be at least 7-8 inches taller than their width and depth. Dome tops are functional as well as attractive in parrot cages. The parrot will amuse itself climbing across the dome. Wide cages are important for larger parrots, as they will need to fly back and forth. While some parrot cages are built to resemble castles or Victorian homes, complete with turrets, one must be sure the décor does not involve sharp edges or small corners where a parrot can injure feet or beak.

3. Accessories

Accessories can go a long way toward making parrot cages “loverly” in the parrot’s thinking. Stands raise parrot cages to a higher level, allowing the bird to see more, and feel more a part of the “flock” in your home. Stands also give owners better access to their parrots. For parrots that crave more attention, parrot cages on wheeled stands can be moved from room to room.

Parrot cages can also be topped with exercise areas, providing entertainment and exercise when the parrot is out for play. Swings, ladders, toys, steps, and more can be included in playgrounds.

The feeder cups in parrot cages should be easily accessible, and should be made of steel, ceramic, or reinforced plastic. Parrots will chew on the cups as part of their exercise, and can readily destroy other materials.

Parrot cages require at least three different perches, each made of a different material. Rope, hardwood, and cement are three possibilities. Proper perches are important to the health of your parrot’s feet.

Cage covers are important additions to parrot cages, allowing your bird to get the right dark and light cycle to get sufficient rest.

4. Toys

Finally, all parrot cages will need convenient places to attach toys – and entertaining toys to be attached. Like parrot cages, parrot toys come in different sizes and materials to suit the breed of parrot. Parrot toys do not have to be elaborate. Toys may entertain, and may stimulate your bird intellectually, but their main purpose is to help parrots use the actions they would use in the wild. Toys help them “hunt” food, hide in the “leaves” of a tree, and exercise their beaks to keep them strong.

Toys in parrot cages can be for their feet, giving them foot exercise that helps them maintain dexterity. Toys may be filled with food that parrots must retrieve, chewing away obstacles as they would in the wild. Small mirrors in parrot cages allow the birds to converse with “friends” in the same tree.

Learn as much as you can about your parrot breed, and ask for appropriate toys that will meet the bird’s varied needs.

Conclusion: Parrot cages are a big investment. Be sure you shop carefully.

©2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores many parrot breeds and offers more information about parrots and their care at parrots-of-the-world.com parrots-of-the-world.com If you are interested in learning more about perches for parrot cages, you won’t want to miss the information Anna shares on her website.

What is Canine Bloat?

Bloat refers to the bloating of the stomach. Essentially it is a build up of gas in the stomach which is unable to be released. Bloat with Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (GDV) occurs when the stomach fills with gas and twists 180 to 360 degrees on it’s axis between the esophagus and duodenum or the entrance and exit parts of the stomach. Bloat is a very serious problem in large breed dogs. When combined with the complications of GDV, bloat is a leading cause of death of dogs, second only to cancer.

The exact cause of bloat is still unknown. Generally, it is believed that excessive eating and drinking of water followed by exercise can cause bloat. It is thought that exercise causes food or fluid in the stomach to cause a build up of gas. The severity of the conditions is more serious when the stomach twists upon itself within the abdomen in a clockwise rotation causing the inlet and outlet of the stomach as well as blood vessels which supply the stomach to become constricted at both ends. As a result, the constriction will cause the stomach tissue to die. In a very short time, the stomach becomes restricted of nutrients and oxygen. If not treated, the dog can die.

What Are the Symptoms of Canine Bloat?

- Anxious, restless

- Distended abdomen

- Attempting to vomit

- Excessive drooling

- Whining

- Pale gums

- Increase in heart rate.

- Difficult breathing

What Causes Bloat?

The stomach becomes filled with gas and because of several possible factors; the dog is unable to relieve the pressure. Bloat, with GDV, is when the stomach goes in to a Atwist.@ This closes both the esophagus and pylorus, preventing the dog from relieving the gas pressure which can quickly build up after a large meal. This condition is extremely fatal, causing shock, coma and eventually death. Like many other conditions which affect our dogs, the actual cause of bloat is still unknown. Several factor seem to contribute to a dogs chances of getting bloat

- Stress

- Eating or drinking too fast.

- Exercise before and immediately after eating

- Having a large deep chest

- Elevated food bowls

- Hereditary

- Disposition

Are All Dogs At Risk Cannine Bloat?

Canine bloat and GDV usually only effects large breed dogs, but smaller dogs are still susceptible.. It is thought that some lines of breeds are genetically at a higher risk. Though bloat can occur in puppies, it is a condition which usually occurs in adult dogs. Furthermore, male dogs are more likely to suffer from bloat than female dogs. Here is a list of some breeds that have a higher chance of being effected by bloat and GDV.

- German Shepherd

- Great Dane

- Standard Poodle

- Rottweiler

- Akita

- Bloodhound

- Great Pyrenees

- Irish Setter

- Old English Sheepdog

- Boxer

- Golden Retriever

- Irish Wolfhound

- St. Bernards

- Labrador Retriever

- Newfoundland

- Doberman

What Is the Treatment of Dog Bloat?

Canine bloat is a very serious problem. If you suspect your dog of having bloat, contact your vet immediately. Every second counts! If caught and diagnosed quick enough, initial treatment will involve inserting a tube or tochar in to the stomach wall to remove the gas. If necessary, the vet will then operate, attempting to untwist the stomach. Secondary treatment will involve treating shock, dehydration, fatigue, and other complications resulting from the distension of the stomach.

Is There Any Way To Prevent Dog Bloat?

Prevention of bloat can be difficult. Because there are so many possible causes for this condition, prevention must be examined on an individual basis. If you have a dog that is at risk there are a couple of things that you can do to decrease the chances of this fatal condition. Since bloat is believed to be connected with genetics and hereditary, these preventive measures can only decrease the chances of bloat.

- Do not overfeed. Feed 2-3 small meals a day.

- Do not use elevated food bowls

- Do not allow your dog to drink large amounts of water after eating.

- Add an enzyme product to your dogs food

- Keep emergency veterinary contact handy

- Gastropexy surgery

This website only provides BASIC information about canine bloat. Your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about Canine Bloat and GDV and its prevention.

For an worldfitness.ca Online Personal Trainer information visit worldfitness.ca worldfitness.ca or for information on cancer visit whatismesothelioma.ca/ mesothelioma lawsuits canada.

It’s a well-known fact that dogs have descended from wolves but began domestic living with humans for more than 5,000 years ago. As a result, a dog’s nature and personality has as much to do with his environment as it does his breed.

By understanding why your dog’s temperament and nature can go a long way towards understanding why your dog does what he does, when he does it.

However, some general traits still stand out regardless of the dog’s breeds and environment.

Dogs are Predators

Dogs are said to be a better predator as they process acute hearing, wide range of vision and strong sense of smell.

With their acute hearing and head muscles that allow precise orientation of their ears, dogs can pick up a range of sounds and locate the source quickly and with high accuracy.

Also his field of vision is higher than that of humans. It is estimated that a dog’s field view can be from 180-270 degrees, while in comparison, a human’s vision range is only 100-150 degrees. This allow them to track events better and hence a better predator.

A dog’s sense of smell is believed to have 25 times as many scent-receptor cells or being able to sense concentrations 100 million times smaller than humans.

Golden Retrievers, for example, can smell gophers through two feet of packed snow and a foot of frozen earth. And, they’ll dig through it to get to the gopher. That’s predatory behavior.

Dogs are Social Animals

As much as we acknowledge our dogs to be highly social in nature, very often this is being ignored. We find dog owners often lock a lone dog away in a garage or a crate or on a rope in the yard for long periods. This isolation from contact with humans and even other animals invariably leads to fear and/or aggression and other forms of maladjustment. Dogs need companionship in order to develop healthy behavior.

Isolating a dog for brief periods for purpose of training and behavior adjustment can be useful. Fear of expulsion from the pack can put overly assertive, alpha-status seeking dogs into alignment with the trainer’s goals. In any human-dog pair, the human must be the alpha (leader). Otherwise, the consequences might be property destruction, human frustration and unsafe conditions for people (both adults and children) and dogs.

But excessive time devoid of social interaction with another dog, the human, or even a friendly cat can harm a dog’s psychology and can lead to unwanted behavior.

Dogs are Exploratory

Dogs are like two-year-old humans, which learn by exploring their environment and may even engage in destructive behavior. Dogs are no respecters of property. Training and an appropriately selected set of objects and suitable area can channel that behavior into something acceptable to humans and healthy for the dog.

Providing toys with characteristics very distinct from human property, such as rawhide bones rather than rubber balls that are hard to tell from children’s, leads to less confusion and misbehavior.

Like their ancestors, wolf, it is within the dogs’ nature to dig as part of the dog’s exploration. Be prepared to patch holes in lawn if the dog is unsupervised for very long. Plants can usually be protected with cayenne pepper paste, bitter apple and other preparations.

Dogs are Scavengers

Have you ever noticed that your dog will eat deer droppings, even when he already has a sumptous meal? Dogs may even chew on dead rats, eat grass and ingest a wide variety of things – and they’ll repeat the behavior day after day, though such actions may eventually cause them stomach upsets.

This is because dogs do not understand the concept of cause and effect, especially when the two are separated in time. So as responsible owners, we have to minimise such happenings to keep our dogs healthy and safe.

Recognizing a dog’s nature, and working within in it rather than against it leads to less frustration for both human and dog. Enjoying the beneficial aspects, such as spontaneous dog hugs (leaning into a leg), paw offering and a head laid on the lap are just a few of the rewards.

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