Posts from — August 2008

No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?

Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren’t aware that it’s not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can’t tell you it still hurts.

This doesn’t mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.

1. Give them what they want.

Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it’s a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It’s instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.

If that’s what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.

Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.

Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic – they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat’s favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.

2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.

Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no’s. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!

Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.

As long as we’re on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won’t be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.

3. Trim the claws.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.

4. Claw caps.

These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I’ve never tried them myself, but many people report good results.

Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.

Copyright 2005

Kathie Freeman is the author of home.att.net/~kathfreeman/book.html Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey.
For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie’s Stories and Tails at home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/ home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/

This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.

The act of offering. Christmas gifts is always enhanced if you take some trouble in matching the gift with the recipient.

Sometimes, though, it is not as easy as it may seem, especially if the gift is for someone you have not seen very often throughout the year; or someone whose tastes you do not know that well.

If that person is a cat lover, though, it is something you are probably aware of however often you may see them. There is every chance that choosing a cat related gift of some sort will be well received.

Cat gifts fall into two categories. The first is something the cat itself (or themselves) can use; the second is something for the cat owner which is adorned by something feline.

Cat Lover Gifts For The Cat Itself

The range of possible cat lover gifts that a cat can actually make use of is quite small, but nevertheless offer an opportunity to buy something both the cat and the owner appreciate. The cat, of course, would probably be happiest with a brown paper bag; at least, I have had cats in the past who would spend much of an evening hiding in such a cheap and cheerful toy.

Assuming brown paper bags are out, what other cat lover gifts can you consider? It will most likely be something the cat can utilise in the home, as when they are off on their travels they like, and need, to be unfettered. An exception, though, is a cat collar. If you know the cat does not have a collar already, then that is an option, but bear in mind that some cats just hate collars and find them uncomfortable. Also, if they are not a good fit, they can become a hazard.

It is probably better to opt for a gift that belongs and stays in the home. For example:

Cat Blanket

There are some very warm, comfortable and attractive cat blankets around, and they make nice cat gifts. We all know how cats love to curl up in front of a fire in the winter; with a warm fleecy blanket to lie on, they will be in heaven. You can add a personal touch to this gift by having the blanket personalized with the cat’s name. The cat won’t care about that, but it’s a nice touch for the owner’s pleasure.

Cat Basket

Something a little bit more elaborate as a cat lover gift is a cat basket. I am referring here to a basket to sleep in, not something that is simply for carrying a cat to the vet. Remember, though, that cat’s can be very choosy. It would not be surprising if the cat turned it’s nose up at a new basket, at least initially. If you spend a lot of money on the basket, then that can be a disappointment, even if the cat owner is very appreciative.

Cats, though, have moods. One day it may take to the basket, especially if you tell it not to get inside!

There are, of course, other things you can buy for the cat itself. Small toys, food treats (fresh salmon may go down quite well), but what is it in the home that cats enjoy most? Sleeping. That means that a cat blanket or type of bed could be a popular gift. We all know, however, that the cat will be the one to decide if they want to use it or not. Never mind, the cat lover recipient will appreciate your gift.

Gifts For The Cat Owner

The choice of gifts that are cat related, and may be suitable for the cat owner, is much greater than for the cat itself. If you think about it, just about anything in the home could have a cat theme to it. Many of these gift items have cat pictures on, or are cat shaped.

Some examples of what you can buy include plates, place mats, coasters, clocks, fridge magnets, ironing board covers, doorstops and a whole lot more. Many of these types of items will be appreciated by a cat lover as a gift.

One good idea is to find a gift that you can personalise, with a picture of the owner’s cat. If you have a digital camera, it should not be difficult to get a picture of the cat while visiting before Christmas, without arousing too much suspicion of what you are up to. Once you have the picture, then you can probable find somewhere to add that picture to mugs, place mats and other household items, and end up with the perfect gifts-for-xmas.com Christmas gift for the cat owner.

Really, the choice of cat lover gifts is wide. That is not surprising, given the huge popularity of cats. So, enjoy looking, and try to find something just that little bit different for your cat lover friends and relatives.

This gifts-for-xmas.com cat lover gift article was written by Roy Thomsitt, owner author of the Gifts For Xmas website.

Relax, get in the Christmas spirit, and read Roy’s gifts-for-xmas.com/Santa.htm new Christmas Story, for adults or children, about Santa Claus and a little girl living on the edge of a tropical rainforest.

Even if you haven’t had a run-in involving your pet of late, pet insurance has probably crossed your mind. And if you have, the bill for any non-routine care may have cost you anywhere from a cool couple hundred to nearly a grand.

You might have wondered why people have health insurance and most pets don’t, when the medical costs seem practically the same! And yet, navigating through the underbrush of fine print involved in pet insurance may have put you off. Is it worth the money? What do insurers really cover? And why do some plans cost the moon while others seem much more affordable? We’ll try to clear a path through the paper jungle.

Tip #1: Get Them in Young

Ideally, you’ll want to identify right pet insurance plan for you, and get your pet in young while she’s still quite healthy. The reason is, should your pet develop a long-term health issue such as a thyroid problem, she won’t be eligible for many programs, having a “pre-existing condition.” If you stick with one quality program, though, you’ll probably be fine.

Tip #2: You Get What You Pay For

This may stick in the craw a bit, when you start looking at insurance premiums. Some of them cost an awful lot! Be sure to look ahead too, at estimated increases down the road. The older your pet grows, the more the premiums will cost. They will get quite stiff for an older pet, even a healthy one.

So why should you pay out a mint for plan A, when plan B offers coverage for half the price? The answer is: lack of nasty surprises.

Let’s face it, no one but an insurance adjuster can tell what the fine print means when it comes to covering your pet. But we do know this: on the cheaper plans, unhappy things happen. Let’s give an example – let’s say you have two pugs, both covered by an inexpensive plan. One sadly breaks his leg and needs several surgeries, costing two thousand altogether.

You may think your inexpensive plan – which happily, covers 2K of expenses – will handle it all. But when you submit your claim, you discover that 2K is the maximum coverage for both dogs, and your pug is only eligible for half. Even worse, but very common, is a lower limit per incident. In this case, Low Cost Pet Plan will respond that it only covers $500 for this “incident,” but if your poor pug breaks his leg three more times this year, they’ll be happy to help.

Tip #3: You Get What You Pay For

Yes, we know we said that already – but we didn’t say it enough.

Here’s a horror story that happens often on a low-cost plan: you have an insurer. You pay your premiums. But one day, your aging pet develops diabetes. That year, when it comes time to renew the plan and update the premiums, your insurer sticks in an exclusion. As of that moment, they no longer cover diabetes in your pet. Yes, they can do that – and you’re out in the cold.

No less common — and no more pleasant — is the limited payout per condition problem. Your low-cost insurer may cover the first three years of your diabetic pet’s vet bills, but after that, you’ve run through her lifetime allowance for diabetes. Now in her golden years, all her medical costs come straight from your pocket.

What you want is a reputable company that agrees to insure your pet for life, period. No tricks, no last-minute exclusions, no lifetime condition limits. But to have these things, you’ll need to pay for them.

Tip #4: Follow the Wagging Tails

Pet insurance costs too much to be throwing darts in the dark. You need to know which plans will come through for you down the road after you’ve paid their premiums for years. So do your research – look for good word of mouth. You can learn a lot with some smart surfing and Googling.

Although we haven’t used either, we found many satisfied buyers with PetPlan and Marks & Spencer. There are other good plans as well, and plans that are best avoided. The tip we like most is to ask your vet what she uses. Yes! – many vets insure their beloved animals, and are scrupulous in who they choose.

Tip #5: Do You Even Need Insurance?

There’s an argument – and it’s a good one – that pet insurance really serves no purpose. You can see the force of this line of thought when you check out the premiums of quality, reliable plans – they’re high. So why should you pay out all that cash for what *might* happen, instead of stashing it each month in your own high-interest savings account and simply withdrawing what you need?

The answer is simple: discipline. Some people have the discipline to pay their premiums, but not to establish a separate account they won’t touch except for emergency pet expenses. Other than discipline, there’s probably no real reason why you shouldn’t self-insure.

With one exception – liability. Some plans offer extra coverage if your dog injures someone and you get sued. These aren’t the kinds of things you can effectively save up for on your own, so if you think it might be a problem, pet insurance might truly be the route for you.

Tip #6: One More For the Road

Is your pet a prize purebred, with a pedigree reaching back before William of Orange? Expect more vet costs over its lifetime – it’s just a statistical fact. Perhaps this subtle factor will help you decide whether you should self-insure or go for a plan.

Peace of Mind: Priceless

We’re animal lovers. And in the back of our minds lurks the fear that Fido will someday come down with something we can’t afford to treat – simultaneous renal failure and diabetes, for example (to cite a sad chapter from my own pet annals). The peace of mind in knowing you can afford to care for your furry companion, no matter what the future brings, is profound. That’s why insurance was developed, and that’s why pet insurance might be the right choice for you.

Blake Kritzberg is editor of FavorIdeas. Stop by for continually-updated celebrity
wedding news, remarkable

Does your dog bark when you have a knock at the door? Follow this simple plan to end excessive barking at the door.

Many dogs will bark when they hear a knock at the door. This is probably to announce the arrival of a new person to their territory. They learn pretty quickly that a knock on the door is quickly followed by a visitor.

But what if a knock at the door was only occassionally followed by a visitor?

Some dog owners have quick success at reducing barking by simply knocking on the door repeatedly throughout the day. With no visitor appearing at the door, the knock sound soon stops being associated with the visitor. At first, the barking will probably get worse. After a few repetitions, it should start to reduce. Don’t lose heart if it doesn’t appear to work for a little while.

When your dog gets really good at not barking when he hears a knock on the door, invite someone around to help out. Just have them knock on the door every minute and not come in unless your dog hasn’t barked. Do this for about 5 or 6 repetitions, no need to overdo it.

You can speed things up by rewarding your dog for being quiet when he hears a knock at the door. A further refinement is to make the knock a cue to lay down on a mat, or to sit quietly by the front door. This is a very polite greeting indeed!

If you have a doorbell, the same procedure applies. If your doorbell has different ring tones, try to set it to use only one ring tone.

This is certainly not the only approach to ending barking at the door, but for the majority of dogs it is the easiest and most effective approach. Try it and see!

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of positivepetzine.com PositivePetzine.com, a free resource for people training their own dog. Each edition is packed with helpful tips for training your dog using the latest pet-friendly methods that work fast and don’t require a degree in animal behavior to use. PLUS, check out the huge archive of useful articles on just about every dog training topic you can think of!

bestezines.com/?id=1737 As Featured On Best Ezines

Recent reports of wheat gluten tainted with aminopterin in commercial dog food manufactured by Menu Foods has spurred a nationwide recall of at least 95 private label and major dog food brands.

Aminopterin is a rat poison that has been used to induce abortions in the past and is prohibited for use in the United States. The aminopterin apparently found its way into the dog food via wheat gluten produced in China by a new supplier of the ingredient to Menu Foods.

As a result more than 16 pets have died to date. Reports of Kidney failure in dogs who have eaten the contaminated dog food is spreading in news flashes around the globe.

Now a new potentially fatal dog killer has been discovered in the recalled food by the FDA. Government tests have uncovered a chemical used in the manufacture of plastics in the recalled dog food.

Melamine has been discovered in tested samples of recalled dog food from Menu Foods and in the previously suspect wheat gluten. This chemical which is also utilized as a fertilizer has been discovered in the urine of sick pets and in the kidney of a pet that died.

If you buy any of the commercial dog food manufactured by menu Foods and listed at menufoods.com/recall/product_dog.html

Then you have been feeding rat poison, and now a chemical that is used to make plastics to your dog.

It should be no surprise that dogs live shorter lives than possible. In fact, dogs have a potential life expectancy of close to 25 years but most dogs live only an average of 10 years.

We stopped buying commercial dog food such as those listed in the recall years ago after we discovered skin conditions and other ailments in our dogs.

The change for the better was evident in a few short weeks as the junk in their system was replaced by healthy and nutritious foods.

Take the initiative now. Stop buying toxic poison and killing your dogs with junk that in our view is not suitable as food.

Your dog will give you a hug and be healthier for it.

Our dogs were sickly and we couldn’t figure out why. We took them off commercial dog food and are we ever glad we did. See what is in your dog food at dogs-4life.com/dog-food-that-kills.html dogs-4life.com/dog-food-that-kills.html
This article may be reproduced unedited with the author’s link displayed

One of the best ways to keep your German Shepherd healthy is by training them. This breed is well-known for its intelligence and hard work so it is easier to train them unlike poodles or pugs. Not only does training your German shepherd keep it healthy but it also allows your dog to attain its full potential as a great companion and family member. This article will give some ideas what you should train your German shepherd.

Train them as early as you can

You can not teach an old dog new tricks, that is why it is best to train your dog as early as possible. The recommended age for a German shepherd to start training is around four months onwards. As young puppies, these dogs are usually rowdy and may easily create a mess in your home. So it is always a good idea to enroll your pet in a dog club where professional trainers can train your dog not to make a huge mess in your home. Not only do these clubs discipline your dogs, they also make them socialize with other dogs.

Keep them tidy and neat

Training your dog to be regularly groomed is also important. German shepherds usually shed huge amounts of hair. Getting your dog used to being groomed can relieve you of the stress of chasing him all around the house or yard to simply get him cleaned up. Though you may get to groom your dog at a regular basis, it is also best to keep a good vacuum cleaner in order to get rid of scattered hair.

Training your dog can be very fun and exciting and it should be done everyday. This will lead to a better companionship between you and your dog.

e-germanshepherds.com German Shepherds provides detailed information on German Shepherds, German Shepherd Breeders, German Shepherd Kennels, German Shepherd Puppies and more. German Shepherds is affiliated with e-goldenretrievers.com Golden Retriever Training.

A house rabbit may seem like the perfect companion for your child, but this is not always the case. Many children are too young to handle a rabbit appropriately. Bunnies may look cute and cuddly, but they do not behave in ways typified in children’s stories or cartoons.

Many rabbits do not enjoy being held and will kick and claw when picked up. Your child may end up with some painful scratches. Your rabbit may end up far worse. Rabbits are delicate creatures and struggling to get out of the grasp of a child (or adult) can leave them with broken bones or other injuries.

Rabbits are timid creatures. Loud noises or children running around can scare them. Your child may be disappointed that bunny does not want to come and play when called. Bunny will be more inclined to come play with your child if he/she is sitting quietly on the floor. Rabbits sometimes want to be left alone to eat or nap, and children need to be reminded of that.

Adopting a rabbit is a very big commitment. Rabbits have a life span of over ten years. If you adopt a baby bunny for your ten year old, be prepared to care for the rabbit when your child has gone off to college. Many shelters have older rabbits that would love a caring forever home.

Children may lose interest in a rabbit when the novelty has worn off or find it burdensome to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are easily litter box trained, but their litter needs to be changed regularly. They require fresh food and water daily. They also require regular grooming and nail clipping. Rabbits are social animals that require a lot of individual attention. They need daily exercise and playtime, and when they are not in a pen or cage, you will have to ensure that your home is bunny proofed. All of these factors need to be taken into consideration when determining if a rabbit is right for your family.

Remember that rabbits are family pets, not children’s pets. It takes a family level of commitment to care for and provide a good life for a rabbit.

P. Smith is an editor for myhouserabbit.com My House Rabbit, an online resource dedicated to educating the public on myhouserabbit.com/care.php house rabbit care and myhouserabbit.com/behavior.php bunny behavior If you are a first-time bunny owner, this site will provide all the necessary information about creating a safe, welcoming environment for your new pet. It will also give you some insight into rabbit behavior, so you will better understand your rabbit’s needs.

If you will not be hiring a professional Shih Tzu handler for the show ring, there are a few things you should know about how to protect yourself and your Shih Tzu so that neither of you are too discouraged right at the start.

Try to remember a judge’s first and lasting impression of your Shih Tzu’s temperament will be made the moment it walks into the ring. Do not carry your Shih Tzu into the ring to avoid getting its hair messed up. Let the judge see the Shih Tzu’s gait as it walks into the ring. Do not drag the Shih Tzu behind you. It invariably will be a stressful 48 hour period for your Shih Tzu before the show. This time period will either be too hot, too cold or too rainy. A few hours before the show will involve your Shih Tzu having to stand rigidly on a crate, having its face and body sprayed with grooming substance that does not smell or taste very good. Your Shih Tzu may have to endure a session of sneezing while you brush their hair out to perfection.

Then remember all the hours your Shih Tzu was in the bathtub and the grooming session the day before the show. What about the ride to the show? Was it over bumpy, uncomfortable roads? The 48 hours just before the show can be a drooling, torturous time for your precious Shih Tzu, soon to become a Show Dog Shih Tzu. Experienced judges know just what a Shih Tzu has to endure the 48 hours before showtime. If your Shih Tzu can still strut into the ring after all this, the judge will have to know your Shih Tzu has an excellent disposition. This will be the judge’s first impression. It will also be a very lasting impression.

Do not try to be first to enter the ring if you are a novice. It will be much more educational for you to get behind a more experienced exhibitor or professional handler where you can observe and learn ring behavior and procedures. When you do enter the ring with your Shih Tzu, do so quickly and calmly. Have your Shih Tzu on a loose lead. Watch for the first opportunity to show your arm band to the judge for check in purposes. Then get in the line-up already forming in the ring. This is usually at the opposite side of the judge’s table. This move will give the judge a good opportunity to the second look at your Shih Tzu. Now, set your Shih Tzu up in a show pose.

As the judge goes up and down the line of Shih Tzu, maintain your Shih Tzu in a show stance. Do not brush the Shih Tzu’s hair at this time. Do not be adjusting the Shih Tzu’s feet, or tilting the head, or positioning the Shih Tzu’s tail. By the time the judge reaches your Shih Tzu, the Shih Tzu should be standing as still as a statue with your hands off of it. If you show a lot of fussing over the Shih Tzu at this time it only calls attention to the fact that you are probably an amateur at this and you will be seen as nervously mishandling the Shih Tzu. A free, natural stance will be more appealing to the judge.

People play games in anything that is competitive to try and discourage a newcomer especially if the newcomer really has a good dog. This poses a threat to others who are competing with you and people do play games to try and make you or your Shih Tzu look bad.

These same kind of games are played in other arenas of the purebred dog sport such as what we have today on the internet with so many Shih Tzu dog websites springing up. People get jealous and feel threatened by what they see their competitors doing that may take away “something” from them. So they try and set up little games to make their competitors look bad or seem unworthy in the hopes that “the consumer” will pass up their competitors when it comes time to purchase Shih Tzu puppies.

I suppose if it works in the world of politics to bad-mouth your competitor and opponents, it should work in all other situations is the thinking of individuals who stoop to this type of a tactic. And you definitely will meet up with this type in the show ring as well.

Simply label these behaviors for what they truly are, which is “unprofessional.” Don’t be “unprofessional.” Hold your head up high and always work as a true professional in anything you attempt to do in life. Do not join in with any kind of childish game playing. How you play your game is what will be remembered most.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: stainglassshihtzus.com stainglassshihtzus.com

Aquatic snails can be a charming and interesting addition to any home aquarium. However, they do have a tendency to multiply at incredible rates. Left untreated, snails can cause a severe problem. They will damage plants, eat food destined for your fish, and become an all too visible intrusion to the beauty of your tank’s more expensive inhabitants.

Snails are available to purchase from most pet shops, and there are a few common varieties. However, you may not have to buy one to end up with them in your tank. Live aquarium plants may be infested with either live snails or eggs, and they will hitchhike right into your tank. The eggs are especially difficult to spot, and so any new addition to your tank needs thorough cleansing. To avoid possible infestation, always completely wash plants you buy for the aquarium. Running water alone will not dislodge the eggs laid on a plant, so run a finger gently along each leaf and stem.

Our own tank ended up heavily occupied by snails when we added unwashed plants to our tank. At first only a few snails appeared, and we rather enjoyed the cute little invertebrates roaming at will. Within just a month the population exploded and we faced a major nuisance.

One of the biggest causes of an invertebrate population explosion is left-over food in the tank. Overfeeding your fish and not removing uneaten particles results in a smorgasbord for the smaller creatures. The first step is to reduce the amount of food the fish are being fed.

Obtaining a snail-eating fish is a common method of eradicating snails; however this is not always possible. The tank might already contain the maximum fish population, making this option unworkable. The breeds available may grow too big for your tank, or have aggressive personalities unsuitable to match with your passive breeds.

Another method to remove snails comes in the form of chemical products. Introducing any chemical into your tank requires caution. The product may be harmful to some types of fish, or decaying snails left in the tank can cause water quality problems. Always read labels carefully before applying any chemical to your tank. Consulting your fish salesperson is advisable.

There are other, less risky methods to manage an invertebrate population. They are time-consuming and fiddly, but they are also safe.

One treatment is to place a lettuce leaf, slice of cucumber or piece of fish food – such as a spirulina tablet – on the bottom of the tank overnight. The snails congregate on the food during the dark hours, and in the morning the cluster of feasting snails is removed along with the bait. A lettuce leaf needs weight on top to keep it down, and fish food placed where the fish can not eat it. My own trials with this produced the removal of some snails, but not enough to warrant the exercise of getting the food to stay on the pebble floor.

I found the easiest and most successful method for removal of the pests was to use a pair of aquarium tweezers to pick up snails from plants and scrape them from the glass. This is not quite as painstaking as it sounds. Placing the long flat edge of the tweezers against the glass and raising it carefully will remove dozens of snails in one go. Simply have a paper towel or newspaper available to flick the snails onto before dipping again. The long handles mean the intrusion upon the fish is minimal.

Along with this, removing all live plant material eliminates multitudes of snails. This also helps reduce their food source and areas where they can lay eggs undisturbed. Periodically removing and washing tank ornaments also helps to control the population.

Using natural methods of snail removal drastically reduces the size of the problem. The need for intensive removal with tweezers becomes unnecessary, and cleaning of the ornaments is all that is required for maintenance. For complete snail eradication, the entire tank would need cleaning and new pebbles provided.

Belinda Osgood works as a full-time writer from her home in North Canterbury, New Zealand. Since first coming to know the joys of owning tropical fish, her experience has extended to breeding. This article has been submitted in affiliation with PetLovers.Com/ PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for PetLovers.Com/ Pet Forums.

Are you looking for some excellent food for your bird feeder? Did you know that bugs are delicious bits of food for birds, and that there are very few birds that don’t eat insects? Even birds that are classified as seed-eating or nectar-sipping will gobble up insects in a minute. Technically speaking though, spiders and earthworms are not considered to be insects but are on the main menu of many birds. When it comes to wild birds such as starlings or grackles, they eat tremendous numbers of wasps, spiders, ants and many others including grubs. So every time you set your bird feeder out or fill it up, you can rest assured that when a huge flock descends on your yard you’ll be certain to have fewer insects when the birds are gone. During the nesting season, insects are hatching all over the place, eating your flowers, fruits, and vegetables and everything else in sight, and they grow very quickly. This is the best time of the year for all of your local birds.

To balance a bird’s see diet, these young bugs and their parents provide your feathered friends with a quick, protein-filled meal for their young nestlings. After all, in addition to a bird feeder that is full of seeds, growing baby birds need soft squishy insects full of energy.

Did you know that humming birds eat small spiders and then use their webs to build their tiny nests and lay their eggs? There are so many fascinating things that we don’t know about the bird world, even those right in our own local neighborhood. If you watch birds in your yard around bird feeders or just on the ground, you will soon see that different birds find insects in various ways. Using the Internet for all of your birdseed and bird supply requirements is one way to save money.

By Terry Price- Remember to visit pet-supply-discount.com/bird-feeders.html pet-supply-discount.com/bird-feeders.html for a great resource on all kinds of bird feeders and bird supplies.