Posts from — February 2008

The cutest dog you must have seen is not of any certain breed and if you think hard enough you’ll find that the cutest and prettiest of dogs are not actually dogs; they are puppies.

There is nothing quite as cut as a little doggy. He jumps around like a furry tennis ball. Energetic, bubbly and happy, it ever seems so pleased, so unbothered and so unperturbed by the worries of life and living. A ball of happy innocence. What else do you need to relax after a hectic day of work. No massage in the world can relax you as completely as the very sight of little doggy. And if you have kids, nothing like it. They make the best picture together- little ones playing together.

So far as training is concerned, puppies are best pupils because they learn quickly and without their personal prejudices. Now if you are ready to get a puppy for yourself you may rush to the nearby pet store to check if they have anything that catches your fancy. It is best to bring in a puppy in the morning so that it gets enough time to get used to its surroundings before it’s bedtime.

Do not leave the puppy alone for long durations immediately after having brought him home. The little one should not be left alone at home from day two because it is likely to sadden him a lot. The fellow would miss its companions a lot after being separated from them. So, make sure that someone is there to take care of it when you are not around.

These little things have a simple life, especially those who have just weaned. All they do is eat-sleep-play, eat-sleep-play. Nothing else. Take care that you have his little sleeping bed ready when he feels tired because the fellow is likely to stretch right there where it feels tired. Cuddle it and take it to his bed and lay him there. Eventually, he will get into the habit of coming around to sleep where he wakes up regularly.

Feeding is important too because they are frequent eaters in the beginning. A 12 week old puppy eats four times a day. When it is 12 weeks to 6 months old, you may reduce it to 3 times a day. Between six months and one year of age, it would be happy with one meal a day, of course depending upon the overall size and weight of it.

And don’t forget the puppies are much like children. Scold them gently and praise them profusely. That’s the best way to train them.

To get more information on pet dogs, thepetdogs.com/dog-breeds/ dog breeds and thepetdogs.com/dogs/ dogs visit thepetdogs.com/ thepetdogs.com/

Some things to know that not everyone will tell you . . .

. . . about buying Shipped Hatching Eggs

Here are some “everybody knows” type of information in regards to hatching egg auctions and/or shipped hatching eggs. I’m listing these things because everybody does NOT know, and anyone interested in buying/selling eggs this way SHOULD be more in the know. I hope this is helpful, whether you are interested in buying eggs from me or just happen across this in a search.

First, let me state that if you are interested in starting to raise chickens or any other bird, having hatching eggs verses day-old chicks or older birds shipped, is the least expensive and safest way to get the job done. By shipping hatching eggs you will no way endanger a chick that could hatch along the way, the eggs will have to be incubated first before a chick can hatch.

It is typically assumed that a seller has no responsibility for shipped eggs after it leaves their hands. It is also typically assumed that the you are buying the arrival of intact eggs, NOT the guarantee or implied guarantee of any hatch rate.

Some egg terms:
FERTILE – An egg that could develop an embryo is fertile. This does NOT mean it is necessarily an egg that will hatch. Also, it is NOT a safe assumption that because it did not hatch, that it was not fertile.

VIABLE – An egg that is capable of surviving (hatching). Not all fertile eggs are necessarily viable. Some eggs may develop, but the chick may not pip, or the chick may pip but die before hatching. This is an incubation problem, typical of incorrect humidity.

CLEAR EGG – A clear egg is NOT necessarily an infertile egg. A clear egg is one in which no embryonic development is seen. This could be due to improper egg storage, rough handling in shipping, or incubator problems as far as regulation of heat, opening incubator too frequently or for too long a period of time, chilling an egg.

I have seen a lot of terms misused in ads and auction listings for hatching eggs, ie, “my fertility rate is high” yeah, but how about your hatch rate? It is not necessarily the same thing.

“Circumstances beyond my control” are words often used by an egg seller in reference to after the eggs leave their care. This covers: rough handling by the Post Office or other shipping courier when the package is in route; changes in temperature or the eggs being in direct sunlight, or very near a heater or air conditioner, or out in the cold; eggs being x-rayed. As far as after the eggs are received by a buyer, the seller does not necessarily know or should not be held responsible for “circumstances beyond control” that could have an adverse effect on a buyer’s hatch, such as: not “resting” the eggs properly before setting; not properly disinfecting the incubator (or other equipment) between hatches; incubation equipment failure; power outages; kids or pets disturbing the incubator; incubator having been placed in too warm or too cool an area; incubator being opened too often or for too long a period of time; improper humidity levels; improper turning, etc.

What a seller CAN (and should) do to ensure the safest possible transport of eggs: Ship the freshest eggs available, package eggs securely in new, never re-used cartons and/or shipping material, mark packages of hatching eggs clearly and plainly, use a service such as Track & Confirm to know where a package is, COMMUNICATE with the buyer so they will know when to expect the eggs.

What the BUYER can do to be a helpful business partner: ask any questions about the type of birds or auction/sale terms before bidding; send payment right away along with any shipment instructions and make sure seller has correct shipping address; COMMUNICATE with the seller when the eggs are received, and most sellers are interested in the condition of the eggs on receipt. If you are unsatisfied, take photos to share with the seller and COMMUNICATE with the buyer about it. Try to resolve any potential problem before leaving auction feedback. Leave feedback when eggs are received, you should NOT wait until the hatch to “rate” the seller.

If you should come across hatching egg auctions or sale conditions that seem a little snitty or over-structured….this is most likely a very good and concerned seller who has been burned or who is otherwise especially cautious about his/her hatching egg practices. If you are in doubt, look at a seller’s feedback. Communicate with the seller and ask questions to ease your concerns. Visit a website, if one is listed, and get to “know” the seller through his or her writings.

I will also say that I was caught off guard in avery odd way once, an unidentified email that was not signed with a first and last name and not sent from that person’s account came through, demanding to know the condition of my premises. It did not sound like a typical “I’m interested in learning about the birds you have” or “I’d like to buy from you” type email, it seemed very much like a personal attack – from a complete stranger who seemed to have too detailed of information about me. The same person was appalled that I would look them up online by a simple search of the email address.

From this, I have learned when making inquiries to include my name, some indication of my whereabouts (city, state or the like) and specifically how I would prefer to be reached by an individual or company will help someone a) identify the customer and/or special considerations as to shipping; b) show in good faith that I am worth spending time answering and am not trying to “pull one over” on anybody and it is just plain decent business etiquette.

As for the freshness of eggs and hatchability; I have seen on sources on the internet that you must incubate an egg within 7 days of being laid; THIS IS NOT CORRECT. It is BEST to do this, and the viability or hatchability of the egg may drastically decrease after 7 days, especially if it is not stored under optimal conditions. At CBF Super Quail, however, we have successfully hatched eggs up to 4 weeks old! Yes, the hatch rate did decrease some, but not drastically. These were not shipped eggs but all eggs were treated in like manner and stored in the same place and in the same conditions.

As long as customs will allow it; eggs CAN be shipped to some International destinations, and buyers can get okay (not always “good” but “okay”) hatch rates. Just like eggs shipped within the US, the shipping and handling of the eggs and package cannot be guaranteed, and some packages may arrive in better shape than others, but there is some hope if a reasonable number of fresh eggs are shipped that you may get a good hatch. I hope to be able to report on this soon!

ALSO: Do research as to a seller’s claims if there is anything you question. People may copy wording, themes, or policies from other auction listings or other sellers and may have info that is not necessarily accurate. For example, I have heard mention of insuring hatching eggs USPS. Now, you may find a USPS that will sell you the insurance, but it is not in their policy, to the best of my knowledge, to refund anything in the event of a problem. Under no circumstances will they cover eggs for hatchability; but I just checked with 800-ASK-USPS and the official answer I received was that some POs may sell you insurance, but the USPS will only accept a claim on broken insured eggs if they are sent Registered and Insured, according to a telephone call but an email stated, “Insurance may be purchased for perishable items.

However, the claim will not be paid if the item is spoiled.” My opinion, a big waste of money! Checking on UPS at 800-PICK-UPS, I learned that there is no insurance available there, you ship at your own risk. Fed-Ex claims that they do not offer insurance at all; but they do provide protection for a shipment based on its “declared value”, their maximum liability in the event of damage or loss. That is all of the information that they would provide in an email inquiry. No courier will guarantee hatch rate or the like, only that the egg arrive intact.

The Canaan Dog is not that far removed from the wild dogs that she came from in Israel. Possibly owing to this near wild heritage, she is a very healthy dog. She tends to be a one person dog or a one family dog. She is a good watch dog and guard dog and she may be aloof with strangers or non family members. She can be raised in an apartment as long as she gets enough exercise. Of course, a properly fenced in enclosure for exercise is ideal.

Good With Children?

Generally good with older children, especially if properly socialized. As a reminder, never leave young children alone with a dog or puppy.

Good With Other Pets?

Good with other pets although can be territorial and may fight with dogs of the same sex.

Trainability

Very trainable, intelligent.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Canaan Dog is 20 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 45 to 55 pounds. The female ranges from 19 to 23 inches to the withers and 35 to 45 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed but the Canaan Dog is an extremely healthy breed. She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Canaan Dog has a double coat, the outer is straight, flat lying and harsh with a bit of ruff. The inner coat is short, soft and flat. She should be brushed weekly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

Life Span

The Canaan Dog can live between 12 and 16 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

This is a breed from the area that is now Israel. They have been around since pre-biblical times (around 2000 BC) and were developed through breeding of the Pariah dogs. Their purpose was to guard sheep and goats. The Canaan Dogs are not that far removed from semi wild dogs. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1997.

Some Registries

The Canaan Dog Club of America
ICDCA Israel Canaan Dog Club of America
NKC National Kennel Club
CKC Continental Kennel Club
APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
AKC American Kennel Club
FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
ACR American Canine Registry
CDC Canaan Dog Club (UK)

Litter Size

4 to 6 Canaan dog puppies

Category

Herding, Primitive Breed

Terms To Describe

Intelligent, loyal, loving, inquisitive, alert, devoted, well balanced, strong, stamina, deeply devoted

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Good watch dog.
Excellent noses.
Docile with his family.
Aloof with others.
Easily trained.
Great hearing.
Very clean dog.
She can stand extremes of temperature.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Good guard dog.
Difficult to find puppies, scarce in the United States.
Need extensive early socialization.
Very vocal.
May try to dominate people.
Seasonally heavy shedder.
Tend to be a one person dog.

Other Names Known By

Kelef Knaani

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

About the Author

Mitch Endick is a short article writer, editor and website developer for the popular pet site petpages.com. petpages.com PetPages.com is a pet information site with free pet ads, dog classifieds, and puppy for sale info. Petpages.com also offers information on cats, fish, reptiles, birds, ferrets, rabbits, mice and even pet bugs.

Twenty-six percent of the dogs at the six Los Angeles Animal Services shelters are “Pit Bulls”. American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull are various names used to describe the breed and any mix thereof.

Whatever name they go by, they refer to a breed that has been labeled ounce-for-ounce, the strongest dog in dogdom. These dogs have very adoptable traits like a good disposition, stability, and superior physical attributes but often these very characteristics are presented to provide justification for fighting them.

Owning a “Pit Bull” gives their guardians a badge of bravado. These dogs are considered to be “macho” and therefore many owners don’t want to neuter and spay them resulting in many unplanned and accidental litters. Consequently, they are also the leading breed and breed mix in Los Angeles shelters.

According to the Villalobos Pit Bull Rescue, the fallout is devastating. According to them the pit bull population in the combined twelve shelters (six city shelters and six county shelters in Los Angeles) has now risen to 40% of all the dogs in shelters.

They say, “Approximately 10 pit bulls are brought in each day to each shelter. That’s 120 pit bulls a day. Most are strays, tossed out like dirty laundry.” They calculate, “At the end of a week the total comes to 840 pit bulls. Then, according to Animal Control records, only about 2 pit bulls a week get adopted. That means 838 pit bulls a week, die in local shelters.” [Villabos Pit Bull Rescue: vrcpitbull.com.]

The MuttShack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation, is dedicated to change this tragic statistic. “We need massive adoptions from shelters, a very aggressive spay and neuter program, and an inescapable dog ID’ and micro-chipping campaign,” says the founder, Amanda St. John.

Shelter dogs are in a life and death competition with Breeders and Pet Stores for potential homes. Shelter dogs need a LifeLine to get their profiles out there. Pounds are filled with purebreds and gorgeous pit mixes, puppies and trained older dogs.

To promote the adoption of at risk pit bulls from Los Angeles Animal Services, MuttShack has put together a slide show that may easily be forwarded to friends by e-mail. It is a grassroots effort and the Pound Pit Bulls’ only hope in this competitive pet market.

A viewer can pause the slideshow at any time, read information about the particular dog and find out where to visit him.

The link is updated daily with new dogs, and fresh information. MuttShack’s Lifeline for LA Pit bulls can be found at photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls]

“Please copy the LifeLine link and forward it to your friends, looking to adopt, or bail one out of the shelter. If you know someone who has a pit bull, or mix, forward the link so that they can get free sterilization and microchipping information!” said Ms. St. John.
photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls

Several organizations have come forward to offer FREE spay and neuter of any domesticated Pit Bull or pit-mix.

> In Los Angeles, Actors and Others For Animals have declared their mission to curb the problem by offering free Pit Bull spay/neuter surgeries. (Telephone 818-755-6045, or 818-755-6323. Visit www.actorsandothers.com.)

> The Pasadena Humane Society, are offering spay and neuter through their SNiP program. (Telephone 626-792-7151 x106 or phsspca.org/SNiP/index.htm)

Most dogs forever loose the families they love, because they lack a cheap six-dollar ID tag. A simple ID tag on every dog could save hundreds of dogs’ lives. However, since collars can get pulled off during a rescue attempt, the soundest identification is a microchip. When a dog is micro-chipped and registered to a family, it reduces his chances of being lost. Most shelters and Vets provide micro-chipping services.

Microchipping also protects dogs from “bad guys”. When owners are identifiable on a database, the dog is secure against being abused or used in pit bull fighting.

Spay and neuter posters in Spanish and in English can also be printed from the website at http:/www.muttshack.org/freespay.html.

MuttShack is asking everyone to print up copies of the poster, and to put them up at Pet Stores, Vets Offices, and animal related facilities, and put them local bulletin boards and coffee shops. Think it is a waste of time? – Consider this: Every poster put up and broadly circulated so far has resulted in an adoption!

When you find the dog of your choice and want to adopt a LAAS Pit Bull, there is no need for a home-check. According to Heidi Heubner, the LAAS Volunteer Coordinator, all the applicant’s information is collected and processed. Then the pet gets micro-chipped and sterilized before going to his new home. The Microchip is the new dog’s security blanket. It will keep track of the owners if he ever turns up at the shelter.

There is a fee of course, but it is a fraction of what a pet store or breeder charges, and essentially covers the medical bills.

See LAAS’ recent program in pit bull handling at muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

According to Pia Salk of 1-800-Save-A-Pet.com, adopting an adult Pit Bull is an instant friend for life. “Ask anybody who has adopted an adult dog, and they’ll swear their bond with their rescued pal is as deep as they come. When you open your heart and your home to a dog that needs help, they really do show their appreciation for the rest of their life! No matter what circumstances brought them to the shelter or rescue group, most dogs for adoption are exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets and extremely loyal companions. But first you have to adopt one!” she says.

MuttShack sees abandoned dogs daily. A recent E-mail sent on behalf of the Linda Blair World Heart Foundation read. “Attached you will find a picture of Peetie. Peetie is a 9-month-old pit/boxer/dalmation mix that was rescued by Linda Blair. He had been used as “bait” in Pit bull fights. His ears had been cut half way off. You would think that this would make Peetie an unapproachable dog and aggressive. However it is quite the opposite. He is friendly, playful, trusting and loves to be petted even on the ears. He has all his shots and has been neutered, is house trained and is the best little boy!!! He loves dogs and people. He wants to be loved and he gives love. (He is not great around cats however.) We really need someone to foster him until he finds his new incredible family.” Looking at his picture was just a validation of everything they said! Link to Peetie’s photo at muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, and from the streets, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters.

Donations save lives. Visit animals online that are in danger of being put to sleep at muttshack.org. Join us in preventing animals from entering shelters that kill.
Support Muttshack Animal Rescue at our secure site https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD.

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Rescue
muttshack.org muttshack.org

If you are trying to come up with the perfect gift for a friend or family member, consider giving them cat note cards. Cat note cards are a perennial favorite for those who want to treat their animal-loving friends to a special gift. They make a great gift for the holidays or for someone’s birthday.

In this age of rushed emails and instant messages, your loved one will fully appreciate a handwritten note on a cat note card. This sort of personalized greeting is sure to warm the heart of those to whom you are writing. You can tell them “hi”, or you can ask them how they are doing. Regardless of what you want to say via cat note cards, they always make for a charming and caring means of communication.

Another way to use cat note cards is to send them in a pack as a gift to someone. They most commonly come in sets of ten. Better yet, you are almost guaranteed to find cat note cards that come in the common size of 4 1/8″ x 6 1/8″. This allows you to include photos of you, a family member, or your pet neatly within the cat note cards.

The fact that cat note cards feature an interesting photo or artists’ drawing of a cat is only half the fun. Much like traditional note cards that lack any artwork, cat note cards are entirely blank on one side. The main reason for this is so that people can write what they want on it.

The blank side can be used to send a special birthday wish. Or, if your recipient chooses, they can use the blank side to send a thoughtful holiday greeting. This rather makes cat note cards a gift that keeps on giving: you send someone a pack of cards and they end up sending them out to their loved ones.

There are several other uses for cat note cards. They can function as a reminder of a particular event or date. People often send them out when they want to make sure that others are aware of a rapidly approaching party or anniversary.

One of the most typical uses of cat note cards is simply as a decorative item in the house. They make superb refrigerator decorations. Cat note cards are also used on bookshelves and even occasionally hung on Christmas trees.

It is no surprise that veterinarians often use cat note cards to alert pet owners of an impending visit. On a sad note, cat note cards are also used to announce the passing of a loved pet. Hopefully, you will not need to use cat note cards for this purpose anytime soon.

Whether you want to scribble a note on one or send a pack of them to someone as a gift, cat note cards are an endearing way to communicate with people. Forget sending out mass emails this year – surprise someone you know or care for by sending them a special message via a cat note card.

Gift Ideas For Cat Lovers has an incredibly giftideasforcatlovers.com/cat-note-cards.php charming selection of cat note cards – as well as many other wonderful gifts for cat lovers.

Cats’ whiskers are as interesting as a cat itself. The top and bottom rows of cats’ whiskers move separately, helping them to use them as wind detectors and as aids in locating the source of odors. Whiskers are also part of a system that allows cats to detect atmospheric weather changes that mean a storm or even an earthquake is headed its way.

Cat’s whiskers work like antennae, they help your kitty feel what she cannot see. Although cats see better than humans in the dark, it is a myth that cats have superior night vision. What truly is the case is that their whiskers help to guide them in the dark.

Cats whiskers also help keep a cat balanced. In addition, a cat uses it’s whiskers with prey. A cat with a mouse in its mouth will touch the mouse with its whiskers, checking to see if it is safe to put the mouse down without it running away.

On top of all of this, your cat’s whiskers speak to you! Cat’s say a lot with their whiskers!

Here are a few of their meanings:

Drooping Whiskers- Kitty is bored or unhappy, she may even feel sick
Twitching Whiskers- Kitty is checking out her surroundings for food or another animal.
Whiskers Extended Outward From Mouth And Spread Far Apart- Kitty is happy and calm.
Whiskers Pulled Back Tight Along The Face- Kitty is either unhappy or feeling aggressive.
Bunched Whiskers Flattened Toward The Face- Kitty is shy or frightened of something.

So the next time kitty is a little bored or needs some more excitement check out your favorite lovemypetsupply.com online pet supply store for a new cat toy. Your cat will really appreciate it.

Leigh Adams is an avid dog owner and pet trainer. She is a frequent contributor to this lovemypetsupply.com Online Pet Supply Store. When not outside with her dogs Mimmi and SoSo, she enjoys spending time with her ragdoll cat and raising Koi fish in her backyard pond.

So you have decide you want a cute puppy or older dog. They make wonderful companions and
pets for families, however, they will be a permanent part of your life for a long time.

To start off you need to decide if you want a puppy or a full-grown dog. A puppy needs to be housebroken
and given obedience training. With an older dog you can see what you are getting. You know what
his coat, size and personality is. A older dog is housebroken, usually has had obedience training, is less
destructive and has house manners. He may, however, have some behavioral or health problems.

Before you go out and buy that puppy or dog ask yourself some questions first.

What breed fits your lifestyle? Do you want an active dog or a lap dog?

Can you afford a dog? Remember, besides food you have vaccinations and maybe vet bills.

Do you have the patience to train a puppy? Maybe an adult fully-trained dog would be better.

Do you have space for a dog? If so what size of dog would fit best?

Do you have children and what age are they? You need to consider the size of the dog because

children can accidently injure some small dogs. Some dogs don’t get along well with children either.

Do you have time to exercise a dog? Some require a lot of exercise while some require very little.

Do you work all day? Some dogs don’t do well if left alone all day.

Do you have other pets? Will they get along?

Some dogs need a lot of grooming while some require very little.

Decide what breed you want or are interested in and find out the temperament and characteristics of that breed. If buying a pure bred buy from a reputable dog breeder. Contact as many kennels as possible to
learn all you can about a peculiar breed. Often a good breeder has a waiting list but they are the safest to
buy from.

The health of the puppies is the most important thing. Breeders should provide you with the necessary
papers that confirm the pup came from a health certified parent. Know what possible health issues the
breed has that you want and question the breeder. A breeder should be available to answer all your
questions.

If you get an adult dog from a shelter he should have received preventive health care and checked for
heartworm.

Bulldogs love to sleep, and they will prefer lying on the sofa or in their dog beds to jogging. However, just like other dogs, bulldogs need to exercise to remain healthy. Given their stubborn nature, you must think of ways to make them exercise with you. To be able to do this, you must start exercising your dogs while they are young and make them accustomed to it since dogs are animals of habit.

Moderate Exercise

Just like other dogs, bulldogs need exercise, but the amount of exercise that they need is only moderate since their body structure does not allow them to undergo strenuous exercises. The shape of their head and their breathing apparatus are some of the physical traits that make them vulnerable to shortness of breath when they exercise. This is why you should not run when you walk your dogs. It will be difficult for them to cope with the physical stress involved in running. You must also be wary of the weather when you take your dog for a walk since bulldogs are also very vulnerable to too much heat. When the weather is hot, bulldogs can suffer from heart attacks or heat strokes.

Rest and Nutrition

Bulldogs love to sleep. Sleeping and sufficient rest help their bones, joints and muscles develop well. Given this, it is also important to let them get the sleep that they need so that they grow up to be strong and healthy. Together with this exercise and rest regimen, it is also very important to feed bulldogs properly. Proper nutrition helps them grow strong and healthy.

Bulldogs need only a moderate amount of exercise. However, you must also be able to consider their physical makeup and other needs so that you will be able to provide the appropriate amount of care that they need to become healthy.

i-Bulldogs.com Bulldogs provides detailed information on Bulldogs, English Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, American Bulldogs and more. Bulldogs is affiliated with fleas-web.com Dog Fleas.

Imagine being a new baby in new surroundings, separated from your mother and siblings. Or being a foster child, moving from family to family and having to learn about new places and new people. Now you can picture how your new puppy or dog from a shelter feels when introduced into your household. Besides the usual preparations for bringing home a new dog such as providing food, water and a safe environment, you will want to create a bond with your new pet.

Bonding with a new dog will not happen overnight, although some people and dogs seem to hit if off as soon as their eyes meet. You will need to be prepared to spend some time and effort with your new family member, but the rewards from creating a strong bond will last a lifetime.

Here are some simple tools for establishing a life long bond with your dog:

1) Before you go to get your dog, pick out a soft, big, warm shirt you wouldn’t mind giving up. Sleep in that shirt for a week or so, and don’t wash it. When you get your new dog, put the shirt in the dog’s new bed, or in his crate. That way he will learn your smell, and draw comfort from it.

2) Let your dog stay in your bedroom at night, although not necessarily on your bed! He will feel safe in his dog crate or dog bed in your room.

3) Spend some time with your dog , one on one. Now is the perfect time to start some positive feedback while training your dog new behaviors. If you have more than one pet, be sure to spend time with your new pet alone, whether on a romp in a meadow, or for a walk along the beach, just you two.

4) Introduce your dog to grooming with a soft brush or brushing glove. Your new pet will enjoy the close contact and also learn what grooming feels like. You can talk to your dog while you groom him, even sing to him, if you want. Maybe he will sing with you.

5) Take your new pet to obedience classes, whether it is a puppy play group, or canine good citizen training. Your dog will enjoy the socialization with other dogs, and the chance to learn something new. An added benefit to taking your dog to class is he will learn you are both his friend, and his leader.

Bonding with your new dog may take time and work, especially with an older dog who has been in a shelter or mistreated previously. However, once you create a sense of trust and closeness with your dog, the bond will only grow stronger with time.

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This article has been submitted in affiliation with PetLovers.Com/ PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for PetLovers.Com/ Pet Forums.

Mary Casey is a writer, and avid fan of dogs everywhere.

Flintstone’s doesn’t make a vitamin for horses, but that doesn’t mean that your best pet should be left without. When most horse owners consider their horse’s health and nutrition needs, they think about the different foods, the varying amounts of water, and a host of other considerations. Among those considerations must be the inclusion of different types of vitamins.

Ideally, a horse should have a very balanced diet. Through a combination of different foods, they should be getting plenty of proteins, carbohydrates, and a little bit of fat. In addition to that, there are the very important things like vitamins and minerals that every horse needs in order to truly be healthy. Without a steady balance of these things and twice daily feeding, a horse’s health can suffer and his performance will go down the drain along with it.

Supplementation is the key when it comes to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your horse. Just as simply providing meat and water would not make for a healthy person, giving a horse only grains and hay will leave him substantially lacking. If you want to provide snack foods for your horse, think about things that are high in vitamins and minerals such as fresh carrots and apples. These snacks should be given liberally, especially to those horses that are active. Commercial snack foods, such as Mrs. Pasture’s cookies are also good for horses. These grain-based treats are good for the animals and they taste great.

Vitamins will be found in these healthy foods that you provide for the horse, but you might have to find minerals in other places. Salt blocks have long been a staple of horse nutrition and it is not because horses like the taste. Horses lick them up, and with the sodium, they get lots of nutrients. When you purchase these salt blocks, make sure to specifically ask for the ones with added nutrients.

Vitamin supplements are good for most horses, but there are certain horses who don’t take well to the liquid form. Before you go out and buy liquid vitamin supplements to add to the horse’s food, make sure to consult a vet and find out what is best. They may suggest that you stick to the diet of hay and oats if your horse is doing particularly well. It is all dependent upon the horse.

One of the best things that vitamins can do for horses is to improve their energy level. If you have a horse that is not functioning at its highest level, then perhaps some natural vitamins can be the pick me up that he needs. Oats are a good supplement to add energy for horses before they go on long endurance rides. Bran, on the other hand, is a nice vitamin additive that will help keep colic away from horses.

Vitamins are an extremely important part of any horse’s diet. There are plenty of ways to find these vitamins and nutrients in natural foods that will promote overall health for your horse.

Patricia Reszetylo has been a “horse crazy kid” since 1978. She now operates EquineTeleseminar.net, where she interviews other equestrians on a variety of horse health, training and equine business topics “By Request”. Visit EquineTeleseminar.net/free.htm EquineTeleseminar.net/free.htm for your own free copy of a telepak (audio and transcript) from the most popular horse health call of 2006. You don’t want to miss out on this important information!