Posts from — September 2007

Silicone Basics:

Silicone rubber is a unique synthetic elastomer made from a cross-linked polymer which is reinforced with silica. Its characteristics are such that it provides a balance of mechanical and chemical properties useful for bonding glass aquariums (not acrylic).
The basic formula is: Me3SiO(SiMe2O)nSiMe3

RTV Silicones are the silicones commonly used for glass construction and is often sold in Home Improvement and Pet Stores (or online)
RTV Silicones consist of polydialkylsiloxane with terminal hydroxyl groups (groups made up of an oxygen atom and a hydrogen atom connected by a covalent bond), which are reacted with organosilicon (chemical compounds containing carbon silicon bonds) cross-linking agents. This operation is carried out in a moisture-free environment and results in the formation of a tetrafunctional structure (A chemical structure that possesses four highly reactive sites). Curing takes place when materials are exposed to moisture. Atmospheric moisture is sufficient to trigger the reaction, and thickness should be limited if only one side is exposed to the moisture source. Curing is also relatively slow, reliant on moisture ingress into the polymer which produces Acetic Acid vapors.

Different formulas and (combined with temperature and outside humidity) will affect cure time. Dow Corning and GE have proprietary formulas that cure at an even slow rate as compared to some cheaper formulas, especially used in construction where this is not an important factor.

100% RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant produces a flexible, durable weather resistant seal between similar and dissimilar materials; RTV Silicone provides excellent adhesion to tile, glass, porcelain, ceramic, fiberglass, non-oily woods, plaster, painted surfaces, metal, many plastics, and rubber. It will withstand temperature extremes from -60°F. to 450°F. and is waterproof for freshwater or saltwater use.
You will note that plastic (which is made from oil) is not mentioned. RTV silicone is not useful for bonding acrylic aquariums and the oils within acrylic will eventually cause peeling away (lack of adhesion).

Aquarium Applications:

RTV Silicones are useful in the construction of glass aquariums and sealing the joints in DIY wooden aquariums. Silicone is NOT useful for acrylic aquariums as it will peel away over time due to the inherent oils in plastics.
Not all silicone formulas are the same, as stated earlier, Dow Corning and GE produce a RTV silicone that cures at an even and slow rate necessary for aquariums. Why is this important? Too fast a cure will not allow proper surface adhesion especially in important seams. It is also hard to work with in building aquariums and the person needs to work very quickly (usually too quickly) for proper aquarium construction.
Also you want to purchase pure 100% RTV Silicone as many (including ones produced by Dow Corning) have other ingredients for different applications such as fiberglass.

A good example of a silicone you do NOT want to purchase is Dow Corning Marine Sealant which I have actually seen recommended for aquariums! This product is great for fiberglass hulls of boats however it lacks the proper strength for aquariums due to added ingredients that allow for adhesion to plastic.

Summary:

Can you easily purchase the proper silicone at a Home Improvement Store? The answer is yes, just do not purchase anything other than 100% Pure Silicone (color does not matter) and I strongly recommend brand loyalty has there are good reasons behind GE and Dow Corning patents. To be safe, if you are unsure of the silicone you are buying, don not try and save a few bucks at the local hardware store when your local Pet Store or Aquarium Store have the correct product for maybe a few dollars more (unless an exploding aquarium in the middle of the night is your idea of excitement)

For the full article including pictures, please follow this link:
aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/2007/03/aquarium-silicone.html CORRECT AQUARIUM SILICONE APPLICATIONS (What Silicone to use and what not to use)

By Carl Strohmeyer

americanaquariumproducts.com/ americanaquariumproducts.com/

Pit Bull owners who love their pets obviously want to do what is best for them. They want them to have the best care possible and be happy. Part of providing the best care comes with providing the best nutrition. All of the different types of dog food produced can make deciding what is best difficult for owners. There are many selections that are very healthy and nutritional, while others are very unhealthy with little to no nutritional value. The most nutritional foods seem to be those offered by the larger companies, in part, because they routinely test for food quality and nutritional worth.

Out of all the different types of food available, dry food tends to be the least pricey. Many owners prefer dry food because they have several dogs and it costs significantly less to feed them. The quality and nutrition of dry food varies dependent on the manufacturer. One advantage to dry food is that it can be purchased in large quantities and stored for quite some time, allowing the owner to avoid trips to the store. Being able to store the food also helps the wallet, if you purchase it in bulk when it is on sale. Dry food also is easier to prepare for your dog, as all you do is pour it into a bowl. It also doesn’t smell bad, which is a plus for owners of indoor dogs. Storing dry foods for long periods of time may affect the nutritional worth of the food.

The semi-moist dog foods are usually made up of about twenty five percent water and meat products, making them very popular with most dogs, however, they are not very good for the dog’s teeth as they tend to be very high in sugar content. They are also high in preservatives and additives, which most owners would prefer to avoid. Semi moist food is usually the most expensive food to purchase. As with the dry food, it all varies with each manufacturer; ingredients, nutrition, quality, taste, are all different from brand to brand.

Canned foods win the popularity bonus hands down. Canned foods offer a full meal in one can, which is often convenient for pet owners. They usually are made from animal by products, and contain more moisture than other dog foods. They often contain the least preservatives, and are the easiest food for dogs to digest. Purchasing canned food can be expensive, especially if your dog eats a lot, or if you have several to feed.

As with buying any food, it is always recommended to read the labels, so that you know what the ingredients are. You don’t have to buy the most expensive food for it to be nutritional; you just need to be a smart shopper. It is important not to feed your Pit Bull too much, and to make sure he gets a lot of exercise. If you are still confused about the type of food that would be best, your veterinarian should be able to help.

To learn all about pitbullsrevealed.com/ American Pitbull Terriers and how to train a pitbullsrevealed.com/ Pitbull puppy, visit pitbullsrevealed.com/ pitbullsrevealed.com today.

First it was one child, now it is one dog. That is the new decree issued by the government of China.

As the world’s most populace nation rushes towards affluence so too do its citizens. Millionaires and a middle income society are being created with such speed that the bottom line of most bank accounts is growing faster than a grove of bamboo shoots! Consumerism is on the rise. Brands of consequence such as Gucci, Armani, and Channel are being snapped up quicker than you can say Karl Lagerfeld! But darling, other brands are catching up: the Shar-Pei, Chow Chow, Shitzu, just to name a few. What? Oh yes, of course! Not brands! breeds, dogs of course!

In old China, dogs were a symbol of affluence, allowed to be cuddled and coddled only by members of royalty and aristocracy. Today all you need is a few yuan in your wallet and in but a blink of an eye, man’s best friend is allotted a choice corner for its bed in the family house. To urban couples restricted to just one child, the dog has taken on a whole new meaning as being a member of the family. Eager and able families are bringing home a pooch, or two or three.

Rapid growth is wonderful – but it sometimes brings unforeseen problems, one word here, rabies! In an effort to curb the spread of this disease, the Chinese government has decreed that now, along with their policy of one child per couple, so too, it will be only one dog per household in designated zones. Large and dangerous dogs are banned.

Envy the dog who now will hold center of attention second only to the child – nothing is too good or too expensive. Designer labels will not only be sported by people but on their doggies as well. Decreed to smaller dogs, you can be sure that Chinese pet parents will be snapping up the Prada Dog Carrier. both for its cache and comfort. Witness the new royal – the family dog – being taken out for its morning air on the Bund. No hard pavement for these tender tootsies. Into the Bag this adorable fluff of brown or white is placed for its “walkies” in style and splendor. Pets of distinction! Oh Yes. Absolutely!

Valentina Bellicova is a world traveller, an author and a public speaker. An avid student of life she observes how every human is bettered for having had the companionship of a dog. To subscribe to her newsletter, BooBoo Speaks, visit sitbooboosit.com sitbooboosit.com

Approximately 7 years ago I started using natural therapies in my practice as I became a more integrated doctor. Practicing in Texas I was seeing many allergic pets who really didn’t get better using conventional drug therapy. By incorporating natural therapies into my treatment regimen I immediately started seeing unbelievable results!

In addition to the great results I regularly see with natural therapies in my patients, one of the nice things that attracted me to this type of pet care is the relative lack of side effects. It’s rare to see any side effects using supplements in the care of my patients. Yet it’s been reported in human medicine that side effects of drugs is one of the leading causes of illness and death in people (I’m sure the unreported statistics are similar in veterinary medicine!)

While many pet owners think “natural” equals “safe,” this is not always true. There are some supplements (such as ephedra) that can be extremely toxic and even fatal if not used properly. This article will explore some of the more commonly used supplements, as well as any side effects that may occur. As always, the best way to incorporate natural therapies into your pet’s treatment regimen is to do so under proper veterinary supervision, as this will also decrease the chance of any side effects.

“Natural” does not automatically mean “safe”

Most supplements are safer than prescription drugs for long term control of medical problems

Examples: NSAIDS vs. joint supplements, choline vs. Anipryl or anticonvulsants, Fatty acids and antioxidants vs. corticosteroids, olive leaf extract vs. antibiotics.

Sometimes conventional medications are safer than supplements

Example:coventional deworming medicines vs. wormwood/ black walnut/ pennyroyal oil.

Ex.decongestants/bronchodilators vs. ephedra.

Sometimes species differences make natural therapies potentially toxic:tea tree oil/volatile oils/white willow bark with cats and small dogs.

Natural therapies may show interactions with conventional medications that could be toxic.

Examples:White willow bark with NSAIDS, ephedra with cardiac drugs, decongestants, and asthma medications drugs, ginkgo biloba with high dose fish oil.

In following articles, I’ll review some of the most commonly used supplements.

Shawn Messonnier, DVM

Author, 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

pettogethers.net/healthypet pettogethers.net/healthypet

petcarenaturally.com petcarenaturally.com

Did you know…

• Fleas spend only 10% of their time on your animal
• An average fleas’ life span can be up to 2-3 years
• One female flea can lay up to 1 million eggs during its life
• Eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment for hatching occurs
• Bark dust, wood piles and ivy are great places for fleas to survive the winter months
• The flea is the second oldest insect (the cockroach is the first) because of its excellent survival mechanisms

The Flea Life Cycle

Adult cat and dog fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people. The pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures than humans. Second choice would be children — especially infants and toddlers. Female fleas will probe and bite and average of seven times in a “grouping” before locating a blood vessel in the skin. The saliva they leave with each bite can cause a localized allergic reaction (flea allergy dermatitis or FAD as we call it in the veterinary world.) After feeding on large amounts of blood, the female flea deposits her eggs and droppings (flea dirt) which consists mostly of undigested blood. Both the eggs (which are white and about the size of a grain of salt) and the droppings (which are black and appear like ground pepper, often in the shape of a comma) drop off the animal’s coat and spread all over the environment.

Here’s a quick home-test to see if your pet has fleas: Lay out a white piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-looking things against the white paper? If so, put a drop of water on it. If it’s flea dirt, the water will turn pink.

Flea eggs remain in the environment for variable amounts of time and are not destroyed by extremes in temperature or by pesticides. When proper conditions exist, the eggs hatch and release tiny white larvae. These larvae are not able to get around and must rely on the undigested blood left in the droppings for their food source. Larvae are very susceptible to extremes in environment, pesticides, and insect growth regulators.

Within several days the larvae spin a protective cocoon called a pupae around themselves. The pupae are very resistant to all but steam cleaning and can lie dormant for many months to years. The pupae is the primary stage that over-winters in the environment. When conditions are favorable (warm and moist), the pupae release young adult fleas and the cycle is complete.

The length of the flea life cycle can vary from a little as one month to as long as two or three years.

Flea Control Products

There are many products available to eliminate fleas. They differ in effectiveness, application, safety, convenience, odor of the product, and duration of effectiveness. Sounds pretty complicated, right? It is. It’s actually a chemical nightmare.

AN EFFECTIVE FLEA CONTROL PROGRAM MUST INCLUDE ALL ANIMALS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE ANIMALS LIVE (INCLUDING YOUR CAR.)

Many people only use one product at a time, which is NOT effective. You must treat the animal, the house, and the yard all at one time to get this challenge under control.

Control of fleas on the pet: You have your choice of powders, sprays, dips, spot-ons or oral growth regulators.

Flea Powder: Manufacturers of these products say flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks of age. The active ingredient, (pyrethrins being the safest and most natural ingredient) takes about 15 minutes to kill fleas when first applied. By the end of 5-7 days, if not reapplied, flea powder works only as a residual, taking up to 12 hours to kill the flea. There is no growth regulator in this product so it only kills the adults.

Note: Powder should be diluted to half strength with talcum powder when used on puppies and kittens.

Disadvantages of flea powder: Flea powder can make the coat feel rough and dirty. So, if your pet is already uncomfortable from the fleas and now you are alienating them by not giving them the affection you used to when their coats were cleaner and softer, this makes the problem worse. The animals do not enjoy flea powder and it may make asthma worse.

Flea Sprays: Sprays can vary somewhat. Most are alcohol-based and some are more organic than others. The alcohol is for quick kill of the adult and pre-adult stages. Some flea sprays contain an insect growth regulator that will kill flea eggs as well. Make sure you get one with this in it. Pets run when they see you come to them with that bottle after a few applications.

The only time I use flea spray is when I’m treating a cat for ear mites (I spray some on a Kleenex and wipe their head down after I clean their ears and put medication down both ear canals.) I also use it to spray my pant legs when I take walks in the woods during tick season.

So, could you use rubbing alcohol or vodka to kill the adults? Yes, but using rubbing alcohol can be toxic. Rubbing alcohol contains a bit of methanol, which can cause blindness when ingested. Cats groom themselves and will ingest this. If you want to use alcohol, stick with vodka or Everclear, but it’s really not very effective.

Aromatherapy: Herbal insecticides include pennyroyal (very toxic), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils (diluted of course.) These can be mixed in with shampoos or applied to a material flea collar. They can be very irritating when applied directly to the skin. They should not be put directly onto the coat either because when the animal grooms himself or herself they will ingest it. In general, pets hate this type of flea control and only submit to it in a learned helplessness type of situation.

Flea collars are only minimally effective in the control of fleas. Most collars contain dichlorvos, which is released as a vapor. They are sold under several trade names. Dichlorvos is toxic to animals and people and can cause severe reactions occasionally. Remember, flea and tick collars don’t work well for animals over 20 pounds.

Note: Collars are especially harmful to Persian cats. They may also cause localized reactions around the neck.

Ultrasonic collars are ineffective and may cause hearing loss in your pet. Ultrasonic collars are an expensive gimmick. Don’t fall for this.

Dips which kill fleas and mites for several days or weeks are highly toxic and should not be used for routine flea control. One study found that more than 3 dips per year led to an increased incidence of cancer. Wear gloves if you decide on this method of flea control (although I have no idea why you would.) Try to pick a non-organophosphate (OGP) type with a growth inhibitor in it.

Pour-on and Spot-on products containing organophosphates are also very toxic. Organophosphate spot-on kills the fleas only after it bites the pet and sucks its blood. These products are also dangerous where infants are concerned. Do not let a small child be exposed to the pet for at least 24 hours after these products are used. I have heard of instances where the parent found a dead infant the day after putting this on the family dog that slept with the child. They are applied once every two weeks. A good rule of thumb is “if a little is good, a lot is NOT necessarily better.” Use only the dose specified on the bottle. Make sure you know the weight of the animal before you dose them. Make note of the next paragraph.

Common side effects to flea products may include hypersalivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Some animals appear to foam at the mouth, others stagger about. Their pupils dilate and they seem disoriented. The best treatment is to remove the product from the animal’s skin or body. Bathe your pet immediately—with a mild shampoo NOT containing flea control. Some animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian with atropine or steroids to help the animal deal with the toxicity and in some instances to save their lives. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet.

One product on the market seems to be working quite well and is minimally toxic. It is called Advantage. Advantage is a spot-on with a growth inhibitor, which works for 3-4 weeks. It permeates the fatty layer of the skin. It should be applied after the bath because bathing leeches the product from the skin. Advantix is a formula that is used for those who are in a tick area. It is also fairly safe.

For dogs that swim regularly, this product may not work as well as others such as Program. If Advantage is not working for you, you are most likely not following a total flea control program of treating all animals in your house, premise spraying the house, the car and treating the yard as well.

Occasionally I have seen Advantage react locally with the skin causing the hair in that area to fall out, but this is rare.

Program is an oral product that contains growth inhibitor. It is given once a month and literally sterilizes the adult fleas so they cannot produce any eggs. It is very safe for both the animal and owners. The animals don’t mind the taste in most cases and it is very effective when used with environmental control. Some forms of Program also include a heartworm preventative and monthly roundwormer (pyrantel pamoate). This product is especially recommended for flea problems of a larger magnitude and for long term maintenance. It’s not a good product for the flea allergic pet, however because the flea still needs to bite the pet to ingest the growth inhibitor.

I am often asked about Frontline products. I will have to say that I have never muscle-tested this product to be safe for any pet. It sure is popular and sells like crazy (I don’t carry it.) I don’t know why, but Advantage and Program seem to be the safest products with the fewest chance for side effects.

Flea Shampoos provide no protection once they are rinsed off. They can provide temporary relief (a few hours with severe infestation of the environment) and will kill the fleas on the animal at the time of the bath. They are good in getting rid of the flea dirt on the skin, but they also dry the skin out and are not good for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. It’s better to choose the correct medicated shampoo for your pet in these cases.

Apply flea spray, powder, or Advantage to the pet after the bath for longer lasting results. Any animal having skin disease along with the flea problem should see your veterinarian for proper treatment and recommendations regarding diet, shampoo and treatments.

I’m sorry to say that B-Vitamins, Brewer’s Yeast, Garlic, Cedar Chips and Herbal Flea Collars will not kill fleas. They do, however, make the skin smell bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a decrease of only 20% in the flea numbers with the use of these products.

Note: Cedar chips and shavings can be harmful to your pet’s skin. The slivers off the chips can embed into the skin and cause tumors (that goes for rats too!). The essential oil of the wood is also very toxic and has been known to cause cancer.

Avon Skin-So-Soft is used by itself as a flea deterrent and is in Duo-Cide products. To use this product, add 2 tablespoons Skin-So-Soft per pint water in a pint spray bottle. Shake well just before using each time–it is an oil/water interface. Skin-So-Soft may make the coat oily and you may have to wash the pet more often as the dust will stick to this oil more readily. If your pet has allergies, this would not be a good choice. The goal is to reduce allergen exposure on the coat for allergic pets. This product would help the pollens to adhere to your pet causing more problems.

Flea combs are highly recommended for animals that cannot tolerate flea products. The challenge is to get the owners to use the comb as often as necessary to help the animal–every day. Grooming can be biweekly after you comb off no more fleas for several days in a row. Continue to use the flea comb daily for those flea-allergic pets. Fleas need to be crushed with a thumbnail as they have very hard exoskeletons.

Some fleas combs are better than others. Try to purchase one that will rake off the adult fleas, eggs, and flea dirt all at once. These combs are also excellent in the prevention of hairballs in cats (and will comb out lice in a child’s hair very effectively). Fleas combs won’t comb through the longer coats very easily–the tines bend and break. I like the kind imported from England. They have a great handle you can palm and metal tines that can really take a beating (or grooming.) I also use my flea comb to comb out the winter coats on my pets. They cost about $7.00.

Treating the Pet’s Environment:

In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)

Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.

Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.

Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.

When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.

Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.

Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.

These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun’s rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don’t forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.

Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building — where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian’s office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.

Nematodes that eat flea larvae: A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!

Malathion and Sevin are the sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won’t be raining for a day or two.

Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don’t want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.

A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or “ribbon or noodle-like” worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.

When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.

My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (I use Cestex) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.

If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.

NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems–especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.

Diatomaceous Earth: Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.

How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.

Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.

Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don’t waste your money on this gimmick. White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.

Well, I hope this helps your flea problem. Good luck! You’ll need it.

© 2005 by Dr. Denice M. Moffat

Dr. Denice Moffat is a practicing naturopath, medical intuitive since 1993, and has worked around the veterinary field for over 31 years and has given this flea talk “about a bazillion times!” She now works on the family unit (which includes humans and animals) through her phone consultation practice established in 1993. She has a content-rich website at NaturalHealthTechniques.com NaturalHealthTechniques.com and free monthly newsletter. For more articles on holistic veterinary techniques and animal communication, got to: naturalhealthtechniques.com/Veterinary_Stuff/veterinary_stuff1.htm naturalhealthtechniques.com/Veterinary_Stuff/veterinary_stuff1.htm

For decades, hundreds of thousands, if not millions of people have been unexpectedly stepping in wet, cold puddles of dog urine, as a result of not understanding what it really takes to house train a dog. It’s frustrating as hell, ruins your socks, and stains your carpet. But it doesn’t have to be that way any longer. All you need is the right information, a string, and a little bell, and your dog won’t mess on your floor ever again.

I house trained this dog to ring a bell to go potty at 11 weeks!

Hundreds of dog training experts are teaching techniques like how to use crates to build bladder strength, and increase the length of time between eliminations; grinding your dog’s face in his poo to teach him it’s not OK, or methods even as intricate as getting a dog to go in a kitty litter box. And while all these techniques can work, they all have one major flaw…

… they all rely on your dog to hold his bladder for hours on end, until you finally remember that you should let him outside to go potty. This is fighting an uphill battle with your dog, because it is infinitely easier to teach an animal to DO something than it is to teach an animal to NOT do something.

Meaning that if we could find a way for our dog to tell us he has to go to the bathroom, that would be much easier than training him to NOT go to the bathroom

Here’s a few more examples to show you what I mean…

It’s much easier to teach your dog to sit when meeting a stranger than to NOT jump up on them. It’s much easier to teach your dog to chew on one of his toys, than it is to NOT chew on your furniture. This is because we can reward a dog for doing a behavior we want, but we can only PUNISH a dog for doing a behavior we don’t want. And when push comes to shove, a dog will obviously be more willing to work for praise, treats and rewards, then be scared into submission with more aggressive tactics.

So let’s take this philosophy and show you how I trained my brand new 11 week old Golden Retriever puppy to tell us EVERY time he needed to go potty, by ringing a little bell I hung from a string on our back door.

Here’s why this house training technique is so effective…

Obviously an eleven week old puppy hasn’t fully developed his bladder strength yet, and he was needing to relieve himself every couple of hours. And if I wasn’t there when my puppy was ready to go… we ended up with a puddle on our floor.

So I thought to myself, “I don’t want to just sit here watching my puppies every move, just waiting for him to look like he needs to go outside. Why don’t I train him to tell me?”

And that’s exactly what I did. First I got some of our puppy’s favorite treats and kept them in a bowl by the door, so I could have easy access to them when I needed them.

Then I tied a little jingle bell from our Christmas tree, to a long string and tied it to the handle of our door, so it was easily in reach of my pups nose. This made it so that every time I opened the door the bell would jingle, and I’d let my puppy outside.

Then I took it one step further. I spent a few days closely watching my puppy in our house (you could do this in a weekend). I’d watch for any signs that he was going to go potty. Signs like sniffing the ground and pacing; like he’s looking for a good spot to let it go.

When I saw my puppy doing this I’d immediately and gently distract him, rush him to the door, open the door and send him outside… of course this causes the bell to ring which is important as it starts to get the dog used to the fact that when the bell rings he goes outside.

Because the dog already had to go potty, as soon as he got outside he’d immediately go. I’d then toss him a treat and give him lots of praise. This taught the dog that he gets rewarded with a treat for going potty outside. And in my pups little doggy brain he very quickly started to realize that if he wanted one of those tasty treats, he had to go potty outside… and that that was the ONLY way to get one of his favorite treats.

After I’d spent a whole day doing this I adjusted my strategy on the second day of training. Instead of just opening the door for my pup when it looked like he had to go, when I took him to the back door I made him bump into the bell with his nose before I opened the door for him.

And after a full day of bumping into that bell with his nose he was trained that if he just bumps that bell with his nose, I’ll come open the door for him to go outside and go potty — and of course that earns him a treat!

This ends up being a HUGE blessing for me because I can be anywhere in the house and if my dog has to go to the bathroom I can hear him ring that bell. And because new puppies can’t hold their bladders for very long, it was the perfect way to show him that there was a perfectly expectable way for him to ask to go outside.

Otherwise I’d never now when he wanted out, and even if he held it for as long as he could, if I wasn’t there to let him out because I was in the other room watching TV, or not paying attention, he would have had another accident and it would have taken 3-5 times more time to house train my dog.

So remember, you’ll have much more success with house training your dog if you focus on training him to DO something that’s taking you closer to your house training goals, than it is to just get mad at him every time he has an accident.

Chet Womach is the author and creator of The Dog Training Secret Multi Media course, that’s helped thousands of dog owners thedogtrainingsecret.com/articles/house-training.htm house train their dogs.

One of the most asked questions by dog owners is “When do I start my dogs training?” Quite simply, as soon as your dog (puppy) starts to get around the house looking for things to get into.

Now, once you start the training it is most important that you keep it up until the desired results are achieved. While your dog is very young you will need to keep the training very structured, short and in an area COMPLETELY under your control. Look for small advances don’t expect the little dog to behave in the sense an older dog would react. Example: Teaching your puppy to stay or whoa. While the puppy is very young you can do this in the house or a very small area in the yard.

Remember you have to have complete control, so the smaller the area the better. Now, you and I both know or should, that a little puppy WILL NOT stay but for as very short period. No different than a young child told to stay in the corner. But what you are doing is laying a foundation for future training sessions. While you have the little one in the confined or defined area you get down on the ground or the floor to their level. Once there you pet them play a little but every once in awhile with a controlled voice you say, “Stay”. You will have to physically stop the pup holding your hand under the chin and your other hand under the belly. You will have to hold them there and the entire time saying in your controlled voice “Stay”. What you are doing, is not only teaching the pup to Stay but you are teaching the little one that you are in control and must obey commands. While the pup is a pup your reprimands must be very light. A simple “No, Stay” with your picking them up and putting them back a couple of steps is more than good while they are young. You are building trust here also so you will need to really think your training sessions through before you start.

While a pup your expectations should be open. What I mean is that you will need to look at all points of the pup, age, maturity and so on. In the above-mentioned training, your pup for all intents and purposes can be trained to stop whenever you tell them to and at any time. But of course that too depends on your dedication to the training. All dogs are different so to say your dog will be Stay broke in 2 weeks would only be a guess. Some will train faster and some slower. If after a week you are able to lie across the floor and tell your pup to Stay and they stop for a couple of seconds that is a good start on the training. Once you have identified that the pup does indeed understand the command then you have to be a little more forceful when you set them back (just a firmer “No, Stay” and a very soft tap on the end of the nose is more than sufficient).

Keep in mind that while your pup is a pup you will need to try and keep training fun, structured, consistent and short.

Is your dog or cat tormented by ear infections? Do you spend time and money at the veterinarian’s office trying to bring relief to your beloved pet, only to find that another infection appears over time? If so, you may want to try some more natural approaches to preventing and treating your pet’s ear infections.

Dogs and cats have an incredible sense of hearing. To protect their hearing and prevent damage to the ear drum, their ear canals are L-shaped. The problem with this design is that it allows the ears to trap parasites, moisture, debris, and earwax, and any of these can lead to ear infections. Up to 80 percent of ear problems in dogs are linked to allergies, and earmites are often the cause of infection in cats.

The traditional treatment for ear infections is to give antibiotics, antifungal medications or other drugs. The problem with this approach is that drugs upset the normal chemistry inside the ear and can possibly turn a simple infection into a long-term problem. It makes more sense to deal with underlying allergies and strengthen the immune system so that it is able to fight bacteria and other germs BEFORE they cause infection. Also, there are many natural treatments for cleaning the ears and stopping infections without using drugs.

These are the Signs of an Ear Infection:

*Pet shakes head or holds it to one side.

*Pet scratches or rubs ears, or rubs head against furniture or carpet.

*There is a yellow, brown or black discharge in one or both ears.

*Ears smell bad or are tender or red.

The Solutions

*Clean the ears with vinegar – If your pet’s ears are filled with brownish-pink wax, there is a good chance that allergies have caused a yeast infection. To clear up yeast infections, clean the ears thoroughly. Veterinarians often recommend using white vinegar, also called acetic acid, because it removes dirt and debris and helps restore a healthy chemical balance in the ears.

Diluted vinegar works well. When using vinegar, pour a small amount into the ear canal, massage the area, then gently wipe the inside of the ear with a cotton ball. Do this once a day until the ear is better.

*Stop infections with pau d’arco – The herb pau d’arco, which comes from the inner bark of a South American tree, is a natural antibiotic that quickly kills fungi and bacteria. At the first sign of infection, mix equal parts pau d’arco tincture and mineral oil and put several drops in your pet’s ears. Give the drops two or three times a day for several days.

*Reduce inflammation with vitamin C – The adrenal glands produce a natural steroid that can help reduce inflammation when ears get infected. Giving pets vitamin C can help the adrenal glands work more efficiently. Pets weighing under 15 pounds can take between 100 and 250 milligrams of vitamin C a day. Cats and dogs 15 to 50 pounds can take 250 to 500 milligrams a day, and larger dogs can take 500 milligrams two or three times a day. Vitamin C can cause diarrhea, so you may have to cut back the dose until you find an amount that your pet will tolerate.

*Eliminate toxins with a healthy, all natural diet – Giving your pet a healthy, homemade diet or high quality commercial food that doesn’t contain corn, additives or preservatives can greatly reduce the amount of wax that the ears produce, while also helping to boost the immune system.

*Air out the ears – Increasing air circulation inside the ears can control the growth of bacteria, yeast and fungi. Trim or pluck hair inside the ears periodically to allow more air to get inside.

*Strengthen the digestive tract – Supplements such as bromelain and quercetin (with bromelain) can help prevent an allergic response in the gastrointestinal tract, making food allergies less of a problem.

*Stop ear mites with oil – When an infection is caused by ear mites, putting a few drops of almond oil or olive oil in each ear will smother the mites and may allow the infection to heal. You usually need to continue the oil treatments for three to four weeks, putting three to seven drops of oil into the ear canals each day. To help the treatment work more efficiently, clean wax and other debris from the ears before
using oil.

*Try an over-the-counter remedy – One of the best ways to stop ear mites is with over-the-counter products containing pyrethrins. Made from chrysanthemums, pyrethrins are natural insecticides that are very safe to use. Just follow the instructions on the label.

When to Call the Vet

Ear infections can look and smell awful, but they usually affect only the outer part of the ear and aren’t too serious. If you’re unable to get to the source of the problem (especially if your pet is still scratching a lot), you will want to see your veterinarian to find out what is causing the problem. Vigorous scratching can break blood vessels in the earflap, causing the entire ear to swell like a balloon. This condition is called hematoma and must be drained by a veterinarian to prevent permanent damage.

Other symptoms to watch out for include head tilting, clumsiness, walking in circles or drooping eyes. These are signs of an inner-ear infection, and must be treated by a vet. Your pet will probably need antibiotics to knock out the infection. In addition, your vet may need to drain pus and other fluids from inside the ear!

Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products
Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets.
To receive FREE “Pet Pointers” Newsletter, go to:
healthyfoodforpets.com healthyfoodforpets.com mailto:deecaruso@cox.net deecaruso@cox.net
Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665

One of the simplest things I ever learnt about goldfish was a simple technique for preventing bladder disease by adding a few frozen peas to your fish tank. By taking this simple step you can reduce the chance of your favorite goldfish, becoming very ill.

Goldfish, if looked after, can live for a very long time if cared for properly. When deciding on a fish tank for your goldfish, stop and think how do you like to live? Is your goal in life to live in a tiny studio? Or would you prefer a large spacious house? Your pet goldfish is no different he or she has needs as well. A good rule of thumb is to allow 10 gallons of water per fish and more is better.

A goldfish’s environment is as important to them as ours is to us, would you prefer to live in a place with no furniture? Do you sleep in a bed? These are just some of the questions that you can ask yourself, and apply the answers to creating a livable environment for your goldfish. Simple things like adding a selection of gravel and rocks to the bottom of your tank can greatly improve the life expectancy of your fish. A few plants and other objects can be found either at your local pet store or around your house or garden.

When adding items from your house or garden. Or if you’re lucky enough to live by the ocean, “from the beach” make sure that that you sanitize the items before adding them to your fish tank. Otherwise, you could be creating more problems that you can imagine.

For more information on goldfishcare.org Caring for your goldfish visit the authors site goldfishcare.org goldfishcare.org

According to Donald R. Strombeck (DVM, PhD.) in the book, Dog and Cat Diets; The Healthful Alternative – most commercial foods wrongly contain carbohydrates as their PRIMARY energy source.

He also says that while dogs can digest some carbohydrates, an estimated 20% pass through undigested.

The excessive levels of carbohydrates in some commercial foods are there mainly to add bulk, and since they are not entirely digested are just wasted space in the can or bag!

The beauty in homemade dog food is that you control the amount of carbohydrates and can vary it according to your individual dogs needs!

Several of my recipes for homemade dog food feature a rice component because it is one of the best assimilated sources of carbohydrates for dogs.

White rice digests the fastest, while brown is much more slowly digested, due to the protective rice husk. Diabetic dogs benefit from the slower energy release of brown rice or a mixture of the two.

I also use pasta, either white or whole meal, depending on what I am making. But you WILL find that dogs, like us – prefer white pasta?

I have trialed using both fresh vegetables and frozen mixed vegetables and found the frozen home brand vegetables to be convenient and very cost effective. Studies I have read for humans, show that frozen vegetables are almost as nutritious as fresh.

We choose to cook our dog food, and the dogs LOVE it – but if you prefer the concept of a BARF diet (bones and raw food) you can also leave it raw, especially if you are using human grade meat sources!

One of the main reasons many vets recommend cooked meat over raw is that of food safety. Cooking meat kills many harmful bacteria – however if you start with quality human grade meat or verified fresh pet meat, the risk is greatly reduced.

On page 26 of his book Stromberg says “Dogs and cats in the wild select diets containing negligible fiber. Thus, dogs and cats have low requirements for fiber.”

My recipes for homemade dog food have small amounts of vegetable fibre, as well as a component from nuts and seeds in each recipe. I have found that the dogs thrive and have no difficulty passing stools.

It has recently been discovered that Omega 3 & Omega 6 are helpful with human health – so too with dogs. Dogs need more Omega 6 than Omega 3. My recipes for homemade dog food always contain good sources of both Omega 3 & 6 in LSA (linseed, sunflower, almond). I also add fish and additional sunflower oil, to provide extra sources and to assist in keeping skin and coat condition. Our Staffordshire Bull Terriers are known to be prone to some skin conditions and grass allergies, the use of these oils can help to reduce these problems.

When using my recipes for homemade dog food – you can use pretty well any herbs you like in moderation – BUT do be careful with pepper and chilli in large quantity – it may cause irritation to some dogs an especially puppies.

I use curry powder, additive free stock powder and tomato paste in my recipes, these are added for flavouring only.

NEVER add any sort of onion to dog food, they lack the ability to digest it and can make them ill. Onion in sufficient quantity can kill your dog!

If you are ready to give your dog the absolute BEST food that you possibly can; while still SAVING REAL $$$ compared to the putrid stuff they pack into cans and bags – then visit my site for your FREE RECIPE!

Thanks for your interest!

Steve

Steve Gaskin is an author of Dog Training Articles – he and his wife own and breed Staffordshire Bull Terriers. For more information on dogs and dog training – for Ebook reviews and a FREE Home-made Dog Food Recipe visit: dogloverstoolbox.com dogloverstoolbox.com