Posts from — May 2007

You’ve searched all over and finally found the perfect apartment. You’re so excited, until the owner tells you that he does not permit dogs on the premises. You heart breaks, although you know that you should have checked for this provision before you started looking. However, all may not be lost. All building owners do not have absolute pet policies. There are ways that you can work to convince even the most skeptical landlord that you will be a responsible pet owner.

In instances like this, money speaks loudest of all. Be sure to explain to your potential landlord that you will offer to make an additional deposit to cover pet damages. If the landlord allows a lease for your dog, add a clause indicating that you will pay for all damages, but you can also be specific in this clause by specifying that you will steam clean the carpets and stating the amount of the security deposit that will be additional because of your pet.

When you first speak to the landlord, mention that you are a pet owner. If the landlord seems unsure, ask if you can bring your dog along with you. The landlord may be more willingly convinced if your dog is well behaved on the visit. Also bring along a doggie “resume”, listing any certifications, obedience schools, and references of people that can attest to your dog’s good behavior. It may seem silly, but your willingness to prove his worth will make a positive impression on any potential landlord.

If the landlord is unconvinced, find out why and address the issues. Adding clauses to the lease agreement regarding your responsibility will help your case. Look into getting liability injury coverage for your dog, as this will certainly clear the landlord’s mind should he or she have issues with the possibility of your dog biting someone.

After trying all of these, you may still sense a bit of skepticism. This is when you should back out of the arrangement and look for another property. Getting involved with a landlord who is closed-minded about approving a pet owner as a tenant is a very big mistake. You may move out to find that the landlord would blame any problem in the apartment, even routine maintenance issues, on your pet. Getting any money from your security deposit will likely be a major issue, if not downright impossible. Do not put yourself or your dog in this situation. Move on to the next landlord who will be willing to grant you a lease for your dog. No apartment is worth causing problems with your very best friend – your pet.

Amanda Baker writes for AllThingsPondered.com All Things
Pondered.

As cat owners, it is our duty to show our pets how much we love them as much as possible. There are a multitude of ways to stimulate your cat’s mind and keep him purring. Over a lifetime of cat ownership, here are ways that have worked well for me.

Cardboard boxes

If you want to make your cat’s day, just go get a cardboard box and put it in front of him. He’ll really be in kitty bliss if you give him two or more. There is something about cardboard that just attracts cats like a a magnet. In pet stores, you’ll see cat scratchers made out of cardboard, permeated with catnip. Anything with cardboard is a hit with most cats. Have you ever seen your cat try to squish his big, furry body into a small box? Why they like to do this, I’ll never know, but it is really funny to watch. Whenever I order anything from Amazon, the product inside is for me, and the three cats fight over who gets the box. Whether tipped on its side or upright, it doesn’t matter. If they can sink their claws or their bodies into them, they will be very happy.

Laser pointer

Cats love to chase anything, it’s in their instinct. If you start wiggling the light of a laser pointer on the wall, expect kitty to come charging, in full “hunt” mode. My deaf cat, Beau, is sensitive to shadows and light. He watches anything moving on the wall with total interest. He will jump and dance against the walls for hours trying to get that laser light, if allowed to. Make sure not to shine the laser light in your cat’s eyes, though, because it can hurt him. Just shine it on the wall and watch the cat version of the “Nutcracker Ballet” begin.

Catnip plant

Dried catnip is ok, but a whole plant is even better and fresher. The thing is, you will have to put a cage around it until it grows big enough to survive the assault of a hungry cat. Put it in a pot or garden, anchor the cage around it, and pick fresh leaves off to give to your cat. If winter is coming and you are in a cold climate, cut the plant back somewhat and hang the stems upside down, to dry them indoors. Put them up high and out of reach of your cat, or he will most definitely come when you aren’t looking and chow the whole thing down in one attempt.

Remotely controlled toy cars

On Ebay, I found a small, remote-controlled version of a Mini Cooper and bought it, to amuse the cats. And did it ever deliver. This little toy traveled fast, and the cats followed along, eyes bugging out of their heads, totally awestruck that this new thing was loose in the house! They are never bored whenever we get the toy car out; it’s something we do occaisionally, to keep them completely entertained. Whatever the remote controlled toy, choose one that cannot hurt your pet. The smaller, the better. The car toy we have is only about two inches long. Little, but mighty.

Super balls

On hard surfaces, super balls can’t be beat. Make sure to only use ones that are big enough, smaller ones could be swallowed by your pet, so get one that is bigger than his mouth. Fast movement is seductive to cats, they see something small moving fast, and they think “prey!”

Those really big rubber bands for workouts – not regular rubber bands!

You can buy huge rubber bands for working out your legs, sold in the exercise equipment areas of stores or online. Just shoot the band across the room like you would a little rubber band, and watch kitty go after it. My one cat used to fetch it, just like a dog, and bring it back to me. He loved it, dragged it all around the apartment and talked with it still in his mouth. He felt like “big cat of the jungle” when carrying it. Great toy but get only the big rubber bands, don’t ever use little ones, since they can be swallowed. When considering toys, always keep the safety of your pet in the front of your mind. Some toys are best used only when you are present. Better to be safe than sorry.

Cat condos

Cat condos, also called cat trees, are great for any cat who likes to climb to the highest point in any room. To keep kitty from balancing himself on the refrigerator, stereo speakers or worse, try a cat condo. My one cat used to get himself into trouble by knocking things off of shelves, or trying to jump up on the kitchen range hood. To combat this, I got the tallest, most sturdy cat condo possible on Ebay. As I put it together, all three cats gathered to watch. Somehow they knew this thing was theirs. And now, it is a cat magnet. There is at least one cat on it at all times. Get one with the largest surfaces possible. My cat sleeps at the top, or as we call it, the “penthouse,” with his tail hanging off the edge. Maybe sometimes a foot hangs off. Sometimes paws are sticking out in all directions. If your cats are big, it is important to make sure they can sleep like this on the top of the tree without being too cramped. They will love you for it.

Try a few new enhancements to your cat’s life. If they get tired of a toy, then put it away for awhile, then bring it back later. Chances are, they just needed a little variety. My cats’ toys are brought out at different times, so they don’t tire of them. It works to do this, my 15-year old cat still loves to play like a kitten.

The best way to spoil your cat, of course, is to give him your attention. Skritch his head, behind his ears and talk to him. He will melt like butter. By trying different methods of entertainment for your cat, you are adding to his life and to your own. Be creative and think of other ways that will give kitty a little “quality time.” In the end, you will have a purring, happy cat for the duration of his furry little life.

Carolyn McFann is a scientific and nature illustrator, who owns Two Purring Cats Design Studio, which can be seen at: cafepress.com/twopurringcats cafepress.com/twopurringcats . Educated at the Rochester Institute of Technology in New York, Carolyn is a seasoned, well-traveled artist, writer and photographer. She has lived and worked in Cancun, Mexico, among other interesting professional assignments in other countries. Clients include nature parks, museums, scientists, corporations and private owners. She has been the subject of tv interviews, articles for newspapers and other popular media venues.

Pet expos and fairs are a great way to get your products and name out to the public and to make some extra cash, too! However, like many things in life that are valuable, they aren’t easy. It takes planning, hard work and lots of budgeting to get all the profit you can from an event. The keys to success are preparation, location, and booth design.

The importance of preparation for an event can never be overstated. For most expos, all they tell you is where your 10’ x 10’ space is located when to show up. Then the rest is up to you. From the start, you need to find out what materials you need in your booth to effectively sell your products. If it’s outdoors you should consider getting a tent. Also, look into getting a banner with your store name. Many people attend these things and your booth needs to stand out in the crowd. Another important aspect is to have attractive displays for your products.

If it doesn’t look nice, people probably won’t buy it, at least not for your asking price. Don’t forget essentials like plastic bags and a cash box or register. Once you have all your materials, do a practice set up to decide how everything will be arranged. It’s also important to practice setting up so that the process can go as quickly as possible on show day. You don’t want to still be setting up when customers start walking through. Another way to prepare is to have back ups for everything. It seems to be some sort of law that things will break at the worst possible time. Don’t shoot yourself in the foot by not having any extras of things like displays or extra tent parts. Aside from back-up materials, you also need a back-up plan. Be ready for things to change at the drop of a hat, because they often do.

If, for instance, it starts to rain, be ready to cover your inventory or rearrange your booth. On the issue of weather, when you’re outdoors you need to be prepared for rain and wind. Having a tent and tarp can solve much of the rain problem, but the wind can be far worse. Be sure to weigh down your tent with sand bags at the bottom and water jugs at the top of the four posts. Be prepared to weigh everything down if needs be. It will seem a bit daunting at first, but once you are ready and get rolling, you’re sure to have tons of fun and make money for your business.

Just like in real estate, the most important factor to a successful event is location, location, location. There are literally thousands of shows for your to choose from each year, so take your time and research to find which ones are going to have the most targeted traffic. The producers of the event are of course going to say it’s the greatest one that ever existed, so you need to talk to other vendors to get a real picture. Go to some events and make observations about what kind of competition you’ll be facing, and how to market your products. Also, is the location worth the price you’re paying? Ask others if they feel it’s worth it and if they’ve made any profit. As long as you’re not talking to a competitor, you’d be surprised how much vendors open up to you.

Designing a successful booth can be as much an art as a science. I can tell you right now that you’re going to learn most in this area from experience. Try different set ups and see which one works best for your sales. However, there are a few basic ideas that seem to work for everyone. Set your sale items or your top sellers out in full view of passing people. Whether it’s a display that advertises your products or actually sells them, do whatever to catch people’s eyes. Remember that you’re competing for their attention. It might also work for your to make bright signs telling people about whatever sale or special promotion you’re doing for the event. Customers come to these things expecting something special, so give them what they’re looking for.

Grant Carroll proud father of four dogs and co-owner of littlepamperedpets.com www.littlepamperedpets.com with littlepamperedpets.com Dog Clothes and Dog Clothing

Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for elizabethaustinwholesale.com Wholesale Dog Clothing and Wholesale Pet Products

Anemia is defined as an overall reduction in the number of red blood cells within the bloodstream. The overall consequence of anemia is the inability of the blood to supply desired levels of oxygen to the tissues throughout the body. The signs of anemia include pallor in the mouth and around the eyes, (loss of normal pink color), gradual weakness, and the inability to exercise, rapid breathing, and an unsettled behavior.

The three major causes of anemia are (1) Destruction of red blood cells by parasites, poisons, bacterial toxins, and immune reactions. (2) Loss of blood as a result of accidents, poisoning, bleeding ulcers, and parasites such as hookworms or whipworms. (3) Reduced or abnormal production of new red blood cells in the bone marrow due to tumors, poisons, acute infections, kidney disease, and most frequently by vitamin and mineral deficiencies caused by poor diet.

A simple blood test performed by your veterinarian can tell you if your dog is anemic. Treatment of anemia depends on the cause. While treating the cause, the vet may also give your dog anti-anemic drugs such as iron supplements and vitamins, while putting him on a strict diet to speed up his recovery. Additionally, you shouldn’t overtire your dog during his recovery, rest is important. Anemia as well as any other disorders can be spotted early if you take your pet to the vet twice a year.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest

Various contentions have been put forward in the dog world by some, (eg those against mixed dog breeds), that ‘hybrid vigor’ is allegedly not possible (for example) when breeding mixed breeds such as Labradoodles (ie mixed breeding of purebred Labradors and Poodles) as it is alleged that hybrid vigor is only possible with mixed breeding of unrelated animals (eg horse and donkey). However, that is not correct, and the benefits and nature of hybrid vigour or heterosis in mixed breeds such as Labradoodles has been known of some some time.

It should be noted that it is well regarded and recognised that hybrid vigour or heterosis effect is ’strongest’ or ‘highest’ in the first generation of progeny produced from the crossing of the two purebred breeds, such as in Labradoodles. That is, when the two parents are purebred (eg Labrador Retriever and Poodle) and are crossbred, their progeny or offspring have the most hybrid vigour or heterosis effect. And this first generation of progeny or offspring are commonly referred to as the F1. And the next generation F2, etc, etc.

If, for example, you were to then breed an F1 progeny to another F1 progeny, then the hybrid vigour or heterosis in the progency or offpsring produced would be significantly lower than in the F1 generation. And the further down the generations you continue (eg F2, F3, etc), the hybrid vigour or heterosis continues to diminish to the extent that it is insignificant.

Some breeders, for example, of mixed dog breeds such as Labradoodles, even further minimise hybrid vigour or heterosis by ‘back breeding’. For example, they may breed an F1, F2, etc back to one of the original purebred breeds (eg Poodle). And may even deliberately continue this practice, in attempts to ’strengthen’ a desired characteristic in the offspring or progeny (eg the soft curly coat of the Poodle).

However, not only would this significantly reduce and/or remove the hybrid vigour or heterosis (which is one of the main advantages of mixed dog breeds such as Labradoodles), but it would be producing offpsring or progeny which are basically just more and more Poodle, and less and less Labrador Retriever. And if that is what is truly desired, then why not just breed Poodles in the first instance? Rather than creating a mixed breed (eg Labradoodles), which initially has significant benefits from the hybrid vigour or heterosis, but which is gradually reduced or removed through the back-breeding etc?

I have provided various extracts, links etc below that relate to hybrids, and to hybrid vigour or heterosis. And hope that these may assist with the understanding etc of hybrid vigour or heterosis.

Firstly, in a New Zealand government publication(1):

“What is a hybrid?

A hybrid is an organism resulting from a cross between genetically different parents. Hybrids can arise from crosses between closely related species (interspecific hybrids) or by crosses between different types (subspecies, varieties, cultivars) within a species (intraspecific hybrids).

Hybridisation occurs naturally, but it is also widely used in selective breeding programmes for both plants and animals. The mule is an interspecific hybrid between the horse and the donkey, bred to combine some of the favourable characteristics of each parent. Intraspecific hybrids often show “hybrid vigour” (heterosis), growing more vigorously and yielding more than in-bredlines.”

Hence, mixed dog breeds such as Labradoodles are ‘intraspecific hybrids’ (ie are within species breeding) and do show hybrid vigor or heterosis.

In an article titled ‘Heterosis Effect, Hybrid dogs’,(2) it states:

“Heterosis effect results in a healthier, more vigorous dog with a reduced chance of genetic disease. It is well known in all domestic animal breedings, hybrids 50%-50% mixes of two different breeds will raise the chances of having less genetic diseases because all doubling of detrimental effects will stop in the first generation. The genetic term for this is HETEROSIS EFFECT. This effect often gives non-related individuals stronger descendants than inbreeds.”

“Once one goes beyond first generation purebred to purebred, you loose the heterosis effect, which is the goal for most hybrid breeders.”

A noteworthy extract from ‘Principles of Genetics I’, D.H. “Denny” Crews, Jr., Ph.D., P.A.S.; Breeding and Genetics Section, LSU Department of Animal Science, Baton Rouge(3), states:

“Mating of animals which are not alike in their pedigree or that are not related are those which will generally exhibit higher levels of hybrid vigor. Closely related animals do not exhibit high levels of heterosis. “

Also noteworthy is the extract from ‘Heterosis and Outbreeding Depression in Interpopulation Crosses Spanning a Wide Range of Divergence’,
Suzanne Edmands, Department of Biology, University of Oregon, Eugene, Oregon, (4), which states:

“Relative to parentals, F1 hybrids showed a trend toward increased fitness, with no correspondence with population divergence, and a decrease in variance, which in some cases correlated with population divergence. In sharp contrast, F2 hybrids had a decrease in fitness and an increase in variance that both corresponded to population divergence.”

From a United States Department of Agriculture, University of Arkansas, and County Governments Cooperating:

“The highest level of hybrid vigor is obtained from F1’s, the first cross of unrelated populations.”

“Hybrid Vigor – An increase in the performance of crossbred animals over that of purebreds, also known as heterosis.”

From a transcript of the Senate of Australia(5):

“veterinarians recognize the concept of — hybrid vigor,“ especially in first generation hybrids”

In New Zealand, it was reported that keynote speakers at a series of Lincoln University Animal Industry workshops(6) indicated that:

“Another important but often forgotten principle is what happens when you interbreed the first cross (F1) progeny. In essence if you breed (F1) sires and dams together, there will be less hybrid vigour in the progeny. Like wise hybrid vigour also drops if you breed back to either of the parent breeds.”

From a report by the Australian Government’s CSIRO(7):

“The benefits of hybrid vigor only appear in crossbred animals that have parents of completely different breeds.”

From MSN encarta online:

‘hy·brid vig·or

improved traits resulting from crossbreeding: the increased growth, disease resistance, or fertility seen in hybrid species.’

From Encylopedia Brittanica online:

‘Increase in such characteristics as size, growth rate, fertility, and yield of a hybrid organism over those of its parents.’

‘Plant and animal breeders exploit heterosis by mating two different purebred lines that have desirable traits. The first-generation offspring generally show, in greater measure, the desired characteristics of both parents. Since this vigour may decrease if the hybrids are actually mated together, the parental lines must be maintained and crossed for each new crop or group desired.’

From Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary:

‘heterosis

the marked vigor or capacity for growth often exhibited by crossbred animals or plants — called also hybrid vigor’

From Britannica online (8):

‘heterosis’

“also called hybrid vigour, the increase in such characteristics as size, growth rate, fertility, and yield of a hybrid organism over those of its parents. Plant and animal breeders exploit heterosis by mating two different pure-bred lines that have certain desirable traits. The first-generation offspring generally show, in greater measure, the desired characteristics of both parents.”

Bibliography:

1. ermanz.govt.nz/resources/publications/pdfs/ER-IS-03-01.pdf
2. dogbreedinfo.com/heterosiseffect .htm
3. continentalkennelclub.com/Articles.aspx?ArticleNum=38
4. Journal ‘Evolution’, Vol. 53, No. 6 (Dec., 1999) , pp. 1757-1768
5. aph.gov.au/senate/pubs/occa_lect/transcripts/280203.pdf
6. country-wide.co.nz/article/449.html
7. csiro.au/proprietaryDocuments/BreedMeans.pdf
8. britannica.com/eb/article-9040306

Les Daniel has been involved with dogs almost all of his life, to different extents and in many different ways. From his first mixed-breed dog as a pet when he was a child, through to the use of dogs for guarding/security, bomb detection, drug detection, etc. Later, he has also been involved with dog breeding for many years, including both purebred and mixed breed dogs. See labradoodles-australia.com labradoodles-australia.com for various details relating to Labradoodles.

Urine is such a normal occurrence every day, yet not so many people consider it as something that should be taken seriously.

However, when damage has been or it has penetrated on the wrong area, it suddenly becomes a very demanding job.

Why? It is simply because urine can bring about bad odor that can actually humiliate you from your visitors especially when it has penetrated in your carpet.

Carpets are hard to clean especially when it comes to animal urine. In addition, when the problem has happened before, chances are, your pet will continue to pee on the same area. This is because animals such as cats and dogs can still identify the exact place where they have peed before. By the time they like to pee again, they will opt to have it on the same place, as if the area becomes a marked spot for urinating.

Many solutions have been tried and tested just to remove the stinking odor that urines leave behind when penetrated in carpets. However, most of these solutions failed to remove the foul odor.

To solve the problem, here are some simple steps:

1. Try to use some solutions that will effectively remove urine odor

Even if most solutions fail to resolve the problem, there are some “bio-enzymatic” solutions that have been proven to be effective in eliminating urine odors in carpets. These products were known to remove even the past urine odors that had long been soaked in the carpet.

“Bio-enzymatic” refers to the ability of the solution to work its way in removing bacteria or cleaning the enzyme material present in the urine. These are the things that create stinking odors.

2. First aid remedy

Once you have spotted urine material in your carpet, it is best to dab several layers of paper towels in the area. This will guarantee instant absorption of the urine. Let the paper towel absorb as much urine as it can handle by putting more pressure on it.

Repeat this process for about two to three times until greater amount of urine has been absorbed by the paper towels.

3. Use a car shampoo

After removing the urine and eliminating bad odor by using “bio-enzymatic” solutions, it is best that you use a car shampoo. This will make your carpet smell good enough. Besides, it can also condition your carpet since it contains some conditioning agents. Hence, your carpet’s softness is maintained.

4. Always rinse with warm water

After doing all the necessary application of proven solutions, always make it a point to wash away the entire residue by using warm water. This can also effectively wash away bacteria and other materials not removed by the solutions.

5. Home-made solutions are great alternatives

If your budget cannot afford to buy those commercialized urine and pet odor removal solutions, you can opt for some alternatives.

Try using some solution of vinegar, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, and some water. This solution will neutralize the odor that urine can cause.

Use the solution in your carpet and let it stay there for about a day or two. If some odor persists, repeat the procedure.

Keep in mind that nothing can work better than an instant remedy. So it is best to remember to treat the area as soon as you have spotted urine material on it.

Michael Louis is a dog lover with a passion for knowledge who enjoys sharing his dog cleaning care secrets. Did you fine these dog odor tips useful? You can learn more tips and training tricks at the-dog-stop.com the-dog-stop.com

Fleas have been bothering people and their pets since the beginning of time. Although not terribly dangerous many animals and people are allergic to their bites, making flea infestations miserable. Here’s how to get rid of them.

Allergic Reactions to Flea Bites:

Fleas inject saliva to stop coagulation when they bite. It’s this salvia that causes allergic reactions in animals and people. Humans react with dermatitis, skin lesions and mild to severe itching. Try applying ice, menthol, camphor or calamine lotion to your flea bites. Insect repellents that containing thyltoluamide (DEET) will repel fleas and lessen the frequency of bites; use these repellents only on your clothing but never on skin or pets. If you are having serious allergies, a doctor can prescribe you something to help while you get the infestation under control.

There are many dogs and cats that are allergic to fleas and will chew themselves raw. With the advent of so many great flea medicines for animals there is really no need for them to suffer anymore. If your pets have been bitten recently however, your vet can prescribe medication to soothe the itching.

Removing Fleas From People and Pets:

If your pet becomes infested with fleas there are some products that your vet can prescribe. Capstar is a pill that kills all the fleas on your dog or cat within an hour. Frontline, Advantage and other topical medications can also kill the fleas on your pet within hours. When Frontline and Advantage is used monthly it will keep the fleas off of your pets permanently. Treat your poor infested friend for fleas first and then focus on the environment to put a stop to further infestation.

Fleas generally don’t like to live on people, but they will visit you long enough for a quick bite. If you’ve been exposed to an infestation, wash your clothes in hot water with detergent and jump into the shower yourself. The fleas will drown in the soapy water. The next important thing is to remove them from the environment.

Removing Fleas From The Environment:

Fleas end their lives living on a host animal, but your pets are not actually the source of your flea infestation. Your home is. Fleas begin their life as eggs which are laid on the host, but fall off everywhere. The eggs then hatch into larvae that feed off of skin flakes and the dried-blood droppings of adults. Eggs can lay dormant for as long as a year. Killing the fleas is the first step. Getting rid of larvae and eggs is the next critical part of eliminating fleas. Here are the best methods.

Collect anything that cannot be vacuumed and throw it the washer on the hottest setting with laundry detergent. This will kill eggs and larvae. Then vacuum everything. Use the vacuum attachments and get all the corners, crevices and upholstery. Be as thorough as possible. This will get rid of most of the fleas. After vacuuming, remove the vacuum bag, sprinkle flea powder inside, seal it in a plastic bag and throw it in the trash outside. You may also want to have your carpet steam cleaned by a professional to get rid of any eggs or larvae that may be hanging on to your carpets fibers.

Once you get everything mostly flea-free, the best defense against them is to not allow them to remake your home into a stronghold. If you keep your pet on flea medication your house will most likely remain flea-free, but here are some recommended preventative habits to be safe:

Vacuum frequently to keep larvae and eggs from gathering in your carpet.
Wash you pets bedding frequently
Keep you pet current on its flea medication

The above method should keep everything under control. When the remaining larvae hatch, they are likely to jump on your dog and be killed by the medications. If you are still having trouble in your home steam clean or shampoo the carpets in your home as frequently as is needed. If this still isn’t enough, it’s time to call a professional or speak with your veterinarian who may have some great suggestions!

Popular Flea Control Products:

Talk to your vet when deciding on treatments for your animals and environment. Follow the directions carefully and never give medication that’s for a dog to a cat or vice versa. Also keep all medications and flea poisons out of the reach of pets and children.

Sorptive dusts kill fleas by dehydrating them; they absorb their moisture and damage their bodies. These dusts can be applied to carpets before vacuuming when you have an infestation of adults in your carpet.

Pyrethrins is derived from the chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium flower and is one of the least toxic flea control products available. They can be good for environmental control.

Flea collars work by constantly emitting poisonous vapors that kill any fleas on the animals. They work, but not nearly as well as the topical treatments or oral treatments that are available today.

Sprays and powders are not really worth the time and money when there are so many easier and moderately inexpensive methods for killing fleas. Flea dips can be a good choice for larger dogs that are expensive to treat with medications. Again, talk to your vet.

Mark shares more about howtogetridofstuff.com/pest-control/how-to-get-rid-of-fleas/ how to kill fleas at howtogetridofstuff.com HowToGetRidOfStuff.com; the web’s #1 resource for getting rid of things.

A common mistake ferret owners make is assuming their ferret is naturally inclined to use a litter box like a cat does. This is not true. Ferrets are separated from their mothers at an early age and never receive the stage at which mama ferret teaches them to use a litter box.

With that said ferrets are intelligent, trainable animals. Generally, the easiest way to train a ferret is with positive reinforcement. Simply put, by offering them a reward for performing a behavior you desire.

First: If you don’t have a cage, get one. It is very important that your ferret have a place to sleep, eat, play and use the litter box.

Initially, keep your ferret confined to the cage with a litter box. The ferret needs to get used to a small confined area, and become comfortable using his litter box before you can expand his play and roam areas.

Make sure the litter box covers two sides of the cage and secure it so your ferret cannot move or tip it over. The front lip of the litter box should be low enough to allow your ferret easy access. There are several commercial brands made specifically for ferrets.

Use a dust free litter. I like Marshall Ferret Liter. It is made from specially processed recycled newspaper that stops odor. Avoid scented and clumping sand litters. Because ferrets like to dig, the litter can get caught in their nose or throat. Perfumed litters can harm a ferrets sensitive nasal passages or cause allergic reactions. Never use wood shavings in a ferrets cage. Respiratory problems could develop over a period of time. If you run out of regular litter, shredded newspaper or paper towels are recommended.

At first your ferret may think of his litter box as a place to play. To correct this place some of his feces and urine soaked litter in one corner of the litter box. Ferrets rely on smell to find their toilet, so by smelling their feces and urine in their litter box they will realize this is where they should go to the bathroom. When cleaning the litter box, always put a little feces back in the box until litter training is complete.

Because ferrets have a small digestive tract food will pass through their bodies in just 2-3 hours. Upon waking in the morning your ferret will usually have to use the facilities within five minutes. You may have to place him in the litter box facing the used litter. Only let your ferret out of his cage after he has used his litter box.

Things to remember when litter box training your ferret:

1) Always secure the litter box to the cage. If you don’t your ferret will move it, tip it over and potty behind or next to it.

2) If your ferret starts using other areas of the cage to potty put his water and foods bowls in the spots you don’t want him to go. Also, place bedding in specific areas of the cage. Your ferret will associate these as eating and sleeping places and won’t potty there.

3) Use positive reinforcement – reward your ferret with his favorite treat when he uses the litter box.

4) If your ferret does have an accident move the stool into the litter box. Your ferret finds his litter box by smell. Smelling his feces in the litter box will ensure your ferret will use it again.

5) Never yell or hit your ferret. This is counter productive and will only confuse him. Never discipline your ferret for going outside the litter box after the fact. If you don’t witness the act, punishing your ferret later will not help. He just won’t understand what he’s being punished for.

6) Scoop out the litter box on a daily basis, and wash the litter box on a weekly basis. Remember to keep a little piece of stool in the box.

After a short time it will become habit for your ferret to use the litter box. Patient and consistent training will produce a ferret with good litter habits, which in turn makes for less cleanup time for you and more time for you to enjoy your boundless bundle of joy.

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Have you ever felt compelled to do something, and not known why? Yet you have just done it, followed the urge, and found yourself in an amazing situation to do good, and do something almost heroic, and yet known, why you ever had that urge in the first place?

One of my ideas in life is that everything happens for a reason. I do not always see that at the time it is occurring, however upon reflection I can make the links.

A near tragedy, which changed my daughter’s life forever, can be linked to a fateful day when she saw a puppies for sale sign in a yard two blocks from our home. Many times before we had gone past and many times she had asked for a puppy from that house with the a puppies for sale sign, and I had said no!

I was resolved that a puppy, lovely as it might be was impractical at that time in our busy household. I had no intention of changing my mind.

My daughter has always loved dogs. We had a gun dog that was in his senior years. My husband and I knew that we were not going to have him as part of the family for much longer, but we did not know how we were going to break this news to our daughter.

She was ten years old at the time and much attached to the dog that was eleven years old. She came home from school one day very excited because she said a friend had been allowed to have a puppy. A lovely puppy for sale at the place we passed so often, and also there were more in the litter still for sale. Her friend had seen the sign from the school bus.

So my daughter wanted to know if we could go see the puppies. I told her that her father only bought dogs that were registered and that we had not idea what kind of puppies the neighbors had for sale. The people that had the puppies for sale were fairly new to the neighborhood so we did not know them or what breed of dog they owned.

She pleaded to go see the puppies. In the end I perversely promised her we would walk over after supper and see them. I had no intention of buying. I felt it was something I must do. Just go there.

We went to the house that had the puppies for sale and knocked on the door. You could hear dogs barking and a baby crying but no one came to the door. We rang the bell several times and then knocked on the door.

I was concerned because the child crying sounded frantic. I looked in the side window by the door and saw a woman lying on the floor. I tried the door and it was open.

Then immediately I could see that the woman was obviously very pregnant and unconscious. The telephone was lying on the floor next to her. In a playpen was her 12 month old son crying.

In another playpen was a mother dog with seven puppies. I moved gently rolled her on to her side for her safety and called 911.

Within minutes the paramedics arrived and there was nothing they could do but deliver her baby in front of us, and soon a Doctor arrived as well.

My daughter was awestruck. The mother recovered and the shock eased. The lovely puppies, watched us. The 12 month old kid who we fed and bathed, and then the crying, but that came from a perfectly healthy baby being born, and all this happening in the house with us.

The woman’s husband has been out of town on business and had not been due back until the next day. She had tripped and fallen, striking her head as she fell. The doctor told her that if we had not come over at that moment she and the baby might have died.

The puppies for sale sign saved her life. Did my daughter get her puppy? What do you think?

It’s every pet owner’s nightmare- your dog is lost. Your dog is outside facing the elements and the dangers all alone. You don’t know where they are and you have no idea how to go about finding them.

Most dogs just love to explore and some breeds are more prone to straying further than others. Hunting dogs like beagles are even more adventurous than other kinds of dogs and will quickly stray out of sight.

It’s not just hunting dogs that can go missing. Dogs and cats escape all the time. Whether it’s the dog that escapes underneath your feet as you open the door or the cat who has escaped over the weekend. Pets also face all kinds of dangers while traveling with their owners.

If you’re pet does get lost finding them soon will reduce the threat of serious harm coming to them. A pet that is lost after nightfall has significantly less chance of being found safe and returned alive. The cold temperatures and dangers of traffic are increased and your pet becomes more vulnerable to attack by wild animals too.

If this all sounds like a nightmare to you there is a method of keeping track of your pet which might alleviate your worries. Using satellite technology you can keep tabs on where your pet is. GPS technology is not new for cars and boats but for pets it’s pretty new. Global Positioning Systems can now be used to keep track of your dog or cat.

The system uses governmental surveillance techniques with satellites; enabling a Mobile System for Communications (GSM). This means you can use your phone or laptop to keep track of anything from your car to your dog. You will need a service provider to relay the information to you which you will need to pay for.

A tracking device can be attached to your dog’s collar; so it doesn’t hurt or hinder them in any way. Except for curbing that adventurous spirit a bit! The system is very personalized – you can set perimeters and zones and you can change them as you travel or even move house to house. These “safe zones” can be set so you are alerted whenever your pet leaves an area determined by you.

If you choose GPS; remember it is only effective as part of a wider strategy. There’s no substitute for proper training but there are some tools you can use to make your pet safer.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at allmypuppiesonline.com All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, carpetsecrets.com Carpet Secrets and movingsecretsguide.com Moving Secrets Guide.