Posts from — March 2007

1. Your cat can’t eat the fish.

If you have a virtual fish and a virtual cat, I recommend keeping them in separate hard drives.

2. Virtual fish are very low maintenance.
You’ll be delighted to have something in your life that’s low maintenance. Simply dust the monitor of your aquarium every couple of weeks for a screen that gleams.

3. Virtual fish don’t die.
Have you or your kids ever became attached to a fish just to have it kick the bucket? Never let this unfortunate event happen again—virtual fish have long lifespan. In fact, there has never been a recorded death of a virtual fish, though viruses and spyware have been a threat.

4. Virtual fish don’t smell fishy.
Virtual fish don’t smell at all. Well actually, they do, but the human nose can’t detect virtual smells and as far as I know, dogs can’t either.

5. No more flushing unwanted fish down the toilet.
If you get tired of a virtual fish, simply hit the delete key and vaporize it into cyberspace.

6. No more trips to the pet store.
How many times have you taken your kids to the pet store to purchase a goldfish and came home with a goldfish, a puppy and a gerbil? You can fill your virtual aquarium by simply downloading fish from the Internet. Don’t worry—virtual puppies and gerbils are easy to take care of too.

7. Virtual water-dwellers are less expensive.
Don’t spend hundreds of dollars on a few fish; spend a few dollars on hundreds of virtual fish.

8. You can mute a virtual aquarium.
Now you can get rid of that annoying hum of the air pump—just turn down the volume.

9. Keep great white sharks in the house.
Laws prohibit you to have even a raccoon as a pet—you’ll never be able to hide a great white shark. However, you can have a virtual great white, hammerhead, tiger and sand shark. And that’s just in the living room.

10. Virtual aquariums mean no water damage.
Sit a virtual aquarium anywhere in the house, even on that old antique table. Your virtual aquarium will never leak or spill, but it may freeze up now and then.

Cristopher Fowers

Cristopher Fowers is a Writer/Reviewer for TopTenREVIEWS.com. TopTenREVIEWS features expert reviews for technology and entertainment products and services. For more information and an in-depth review on virtual fish, see the aquarium-screensavers-software-review.toptenreviews.com/ TopTenREVIEWS Aquarium Screensaver Review. We do the research so you don’t have to™.

Unfortunately, there are no cures for dog allergies. However, there are several things you can do to make life with your dog more comfortable:

1. Wash your hands frequently.

Wash your hands with soap and hot water immediately after handling your dog. If you are unable to wash your hands right away, avoid touching your hands with your face especially your eyes, nose, and mouth. If you have severe allergies and are in close contact with your dog, you may need to take frequent showers and change your clothes throughout the day.

2. Feed your dog a well-balanced diet.

Your dog’s diet should include some natural fat. This fat helps to make your dog’s skin less dry, resulting in less shedding. Talk to your vet about his recommendations on how to safely add fat to his diet.

3. Don’t allow your dog in the bedroom.

This tip takes a lot of discipline, but it does make a big impact on your reaction to allergies. Keeping your bedroom door closed is ideal because it keeps airborne particles away. Sleep on mattresses and pillows with hypoallergenic polyester fillings. Also, as an extra precaution, cover your pillows, mattresses, and box springs with plastic, zippered, allergy-proof covers.

4. Brush your dog often.

It is ideal to brush your dog daily. However, if you suffer from allergies, you’ll need to give another family member the responsibility of brushing the dog. If possible, the dog should be brushed outdoors. If you live alone with your dog, consider taking him to a professional groomer. You could wear a dust mask and gloves for brushing him in between grooming visits.

5. Bathe your dog often.

Check your dog’s current shampoo. It should be ahypoallergenic or oatmeal based shampoo. If it’s not, try switching brands. If your allergies can’t handle the bathing, have another family member be responsible for giving baths. Or, have your dog visit a groomer.

6. Wash your dog’s belongings.

Get into the habit of washing your dog’s bed, blankets, and toys on a weekly basis either by hand with a safe soap or in the washing machine.

7. Check your vacuum.

Make sure your vacuum cleaner has a HEPA (High Efficiency Particle Air) filtration system. This type of system will help pull up and trap more of your dog’s dander from the floor.

Note: vacuuming is recommended over sweeping because sweeping can stir the dander into the air, rather than trapping and removing it.

8. Have carpets cleaned regularly.

Even though you use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filtration system, it is important to still have your carpets steam-cleaned throughout the year. Try to have this done at least quarterly.

9. Dust often.

Use a damp cloth to wipe down surfaces such as tables, shelves, window sills, wall hangings, lamps, and other furniture and accessories. If necessary, wear a dust mask as you clean. Reccomended cleansing solutions:Oti-Clens Cleansing Solution

10. Keep the air fresh.

Use an air purifier one that contains a HEPA. This type of system will help eliminate dander from the air.

The less a dog sheds the less dander it produces. The following breeds typically produce less dander:

Airedale

Basenji

Bedlington terrier

Bichon frise

Chinese crested

Irish water spaniel

Italian greyhound

Kerry blue terrier

Maltese

Poodle

Portuguese water dog

Schnauzers

Shih tzu

Soft-coated Wheaten terrier

Tibetan terrier

Wire-haired fox terrier

Xoloitzcuintli (Mexican hairless)

To read the Entire Article and the remaining allergy prevention tips go to: largedogbreedz.com/your-large-dogs-health/large-dog-grooming-techniques/dog-allergy-prevention-tips.html

For more largedogbreedz.com/your-large-dogs-health/” target=”_blank Dog Breed Health Tips, largedogbreedz.com/large-dog-breeds/” target=”_blank Large Dog Breed Profiles, and details on specific Dog Training Exercises, visit us at largedogbreedz.com” target=”_blank largedogbreedz.com

Like people, cats need water even more than food. Even a 10% loss of water can cause serious illness in a cat. So how much water is enough? And how do we persuade our cats to drink?

In general a cat should drink 2.5 times the amount of food they eat. This fluid doesn’t always have to be in just drinking water. Some of the fluid can come from the water in canned cat food. However, a cat must take in more water than they do food. Fresh water should always be available. In hot weather or if a cat is ill, there may be an increased need for water.

Cats can be finicky about their water. If you wouldn’t drink from their bowl, chances are neither will they. Make sure water dishes are clean and are filled with fresh water. Ceramic and stainless steel bowls are best. Plastic can leach cleansers into the bowls which will seep back out into the drinking water. Often water in plastic will have a taste that is unpleasant to your cat.

While room temperature water is great most of the year, during the summer months you might try adding an ice cube or two. The water shouldn’t get too cold. However, the ice cubes can cool the water, which may add to the cats interest. It will also give the cat something to play with.

Water fountains are another excellent way to keep the cat interested in water. Fountains keep the water flowing and keep it from stagnating. Further, they often have filters which will help keep bacteria from forming, which can happen in stagnant water. In addition to offering a source of play, fountains can then offer a safer source of water.

Many cats like to drink from the toilet. Ironically this can be because the water from the toilet is cooler (due to the larger surface area) and perhaps cleaner than the water in a bowl. Be sure to clean the water dishes frequently and you might find your cat is less interested in the water from the toilet.

Another favorite water toy for cats is often the water faucet. Some cats prefer to drink from a dripping faucet. It’s been said that this is because these cats don’t have the depth perception to drink from a dish. Fountains are suggested for these cats. Also glass dishes are supposed to be helpful. The cat can see how deep the water is by looking at the side of the dish. Dripping faucets are fun too, so don’t forget that your cat likes to be entertained.

If you keep many sources of clean fresh water around, your cat should have no problem getting enough to drink. For older cats, the need for water increases. Keep many ideas in mind in case you need to increase your cat’s fluid intake. Cats need quality food but they need too quality water even more.

Bonnie Koenig lives with her three cats. She and her Siamese maintain their website mysiamese.com mysiamese.com

Training Your Dog to Eliminate Outdoors

The Equipment You’ll Need

1. A Crate

Also known as a kennel or carrier (you see them at airports because they are approved for flight) They are either plastic with wire windows, or are all wire, these type can be collapsed down and transported more easily, therefore the wire style are my personal choice. They come in various sizes to fit all dogs (even Irish Wolfhounds) the tallest dog in the World.

Do you need one?

I believe they are almost a necessity in this day and age. If your dog lived in the woods it would seek out a den where it could sleep and be secure, free from predators and interference. Think of a crate as a portable den. Your dog will if its presented correctly think of the crate as it’s haven, and in times of stress or tiredness or just time out will seek it’s den to settle in peace and quiet.

2. Food Treats

Something your dog can consume quickly. Not a biscuit, which he must chew and then look for crumbs. I use dried liver or cheese.

3. A Lead and Collar

I dislike Check Chains, Haiti ’s and Chest Harnesses they are not required in most cases. You can train nearly any dog to walk to heel within 5 minutes without the need to use any other form of restraint other than a good leather, nylon or canvass collar and a five-foot lead.

I have also invented and I am patenting a device called a Jingler. It works by distracting your dog momentarily from what it is doing,. The repetition of the jingle and either a change of direction or a command conditions your dog so that it associates the noise with a command. Though not necessary for crate training it is extremely helpful for many other training situations including walking to heel, nipping, jumping, and barking etc.

4. An Odour Eliminator

You can buy a commercial one or mix one part white vinegar to four parts water or I use biological washing liquid or powder which breaks down the fatty acids and proteins and removes the smell, If you can obtain it, a quick wipe over with surgical spirit afterwards finishes the job.

The Crate

Mothers keep babies in a playpen when he/she can’t be supervised? Dogs are den animals. They will seek out a den to feel protected. It should be small and cosy, therefore do not buy a crate that is to big for your dog. However the dog should be able to turn round comfortably. Dogs will rarely soil their own beds therefore if you fill the crate with something like VetBed which can be washed regularly in the washing machine and dries very quickly, you will find that toilet training should be quick, painless, and easy. Do not put paper in the crate this only serves to stimulate the puppy to toilet in there if he is being paper trained. Cover the crate with a blanket to make it more den like.

Your first rule on toilet training is when your puppy or untrained dog is not supervised; he or she should be in the crate. Teach your dog to enter on command. Begin by saying, “Kennel” “Bed” or any word you prefer.

Place the dog in the crate, give a food reinforcement (a treat) and lock it. Wait 15 seconds and then release the dog and praise.. The dog will start to associate the crate with the food and feel it is a good thing. Work the dog up to an overnight stay. If the dog is noisy, rap on the top and say “Quiet”. And never, ever let the dog out if he is noisy. You’d be reinforcing his Behaviour. Variable reinforcements worked better than fixed ones. When you go out, leave on a talk radio station in another room NOT the same room, Hearing voices will help your dog not to feel so alone.

Establish Meal Periods

If you feed and water your dog on a schedule, your dog will eliminate on a schedule. FREE FEEDING YOUR DOG WILL MAKE THE JOB OF HOUSE TRAINING MUCH MORE DIFFICULT…First, establish meal periods. three to four meal periods for young puppies and a single or a double meal period for adult dogs. The meal period will last for 10 minutes. During that time give the required amount of food and as much water as the dog wants. At the end of the meal period, remove the food whether or not the dog has eaten, unless instructed otherwise by your veterinarian. If the dog plays and does not eat, he will soon learn that the food will be taken away. This also helps to discourage picky eating habits.

Place Your Dog on Commands

Many dog owners inadvertently teach their dogs to eliminate indoors. Each time they take their dog outside they wait for him to eliminate. As soon as he does, they bring him in. Most dogs, especially young ones, like the sights and smells of the outdoors. They quickly learn that as soon as they eliminate, they are taken inside. They learn to hold it until they come inside to prolong the experience.

It makes better sense to train your dog to eliminate on command, especially if you must lead walk him. Take your dog to “his spot” each time. As your dog begins to urinate, choose a word and say it over and over as the Behaviour is occurring (I say “wee”) do this each time your dog urinates. After several weeks of hearing “wee” as he urinates, it will eventually act as a trigger for the Behaviour. I use a different phrase for defecating. Each time your dog finishes, praise him while offering a food reinforcement (a treat). I use cheese puffed jerky or frankfurters.. When he has finished, take him for a walk as a reward! If your dog fails to eliminate in 5 minutes, take him inside crate him for a half-hour and then try again.

Use an “Instructive Reprimand” each time you take your dog outside say, “Outside”. He will soon learn what outside means then, if the dog inappropriately urinates inside, say “Outside” and take him to “his spot”.

“Outside” becomes an instructive command because it directs the dog to the appropriate elimination place and it is a reprimand because of the tone of voice you use as the Behaviour is occurring, thus acting as a negative reinforcement.

There is a device called a pee pole which is a pheromone impregnated device that is supposed to aid toileting I have mixed responses to this aid with some dogs it works well particularly if you want them to go in a particular spot. With other dogs I find they pull them up and chew them therefore they are useless in that circumstance

About the Author

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161
mailto:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk enquiries@doglistener.co.uk

Margaret has a one year old lurcher. He is house-trained, doesn’t pull on the lead and usually comes back when called. Lurcher is a rescue dog who was ill-treated so rather nervous of people.

However one of the problems Margaret is facing is that he is very friendly with other dogs. Usually he obeys the command when called, however when playing with other dogs he ignores the recall command and the leave command.

SitStayFetch: Consultation With Margaret

Hi Margaret,

Thanks for the enquiry. I believe that there are a few courses of action available to you and your dog.

No.1 “Secrets to becoming the alpha dog” I think this will help you to enforce your position as the person (or alpha dog) that your dog should listen to. To my mind this is where most problems originate from- a lack of authority on the part of the owner/trainer. So use this techniques as often as you can.

No.2 Review the “Secrets to training your dog” The particular section (in DOG 103) that I would like you to review covers the best methods of ensuring that your dog learns and obeys your commands. These techniques are also very important as they give you the best methods for communicating effectively with your dog.

No.3 Command enforcement It is very important that when you issue a command that you are in a position to enforce that command if your dog does not obey you straightaway.

This is relatively easy when learning the first stages of any command as you are generally close enough to your dog to be able to make any correction to his behavior. The problem comes if the dog was not taught properly in the first place or when you get an older dog (such as in your case) who seems to have a mind of his own.

To overcome this I would suggest that you follow DOG 203: Commands to Start, from the beginning. You may well have taught him some or most of these commands but it would still be worth while going through each one to ensure that he responds to you when you ask something of him.

Having frequent training sessions will also make him more responsive to you when you command him to do something. It is also important that you have full confidence that he will obey you before you move on to the next stage of any progression.

I would also suggest that for a start you train him in an area where there are no distractions such as your other dog or dogs in general. You need to get him focused on you so that you have his full attention.

I am sure that if you follow these courses of action, you will have a dog with a greater sense of discipline and one that will answer to you every time.

I hope this helps and good luck!

sitsstayfetch.blogspot.com/2007/05/sitstayfetch-consultation-with-margaret.html sitsstayfetch.blogspot.com/2007/05/sitstayfetch-consultation-with-margaret.html

Kind regards,

D Stevens

I didn’t grow up with pets, so when I came of age, it was one of my first priorities to get a dog.

And I’ve adopted lots of them from rescue organizations, mostly Dobermans and Bearded Collies, one of which I have now.

While I’ve enjoyed playing with cats, and especially talking with them and having them respond, I never had one I could call my own, until now.

Cleopa was born a feral, or wild cat, nearby my urban home. Somewhere, nestled between yards and parking lots, she arrived on the scene with at least two sisters and a couple of brothers.

About six months ago, I started leaving some food out for these teeny creatures, and I took a liking to Cleopa, who is snow white with beautiful black and red markings, mostly on her head and tail.

I resolved to adopt her, to tame her, and here’s how I did it.

(1) I talked to her, every chance I got. Having a door that opens out onto a front terrace made this fairly easy to do. Before too long, she spoke back.

(2) I tried to pet her, but she bit me. Next, I decided to hand-feed her some food, which she was wary of, but couldn’t resist.

(3) Petting her back while feeding her came next.

(4) Next, I placed a bowl of food inside my door, moving it closer and closer to the kitchen with subsequent feedings. Finally, it came to rest next to the stove, where I feed her now.

(5) Before long, she allowed me to pet her without food, and then she jumped on my lap for petting, and finally she meowed to get in to be petted, without any promise of food.

Now, she’s like a regular house cat, and she doesn’t want very much to go out.

What happened to her brothers and sisters? The boys split long ago, but the sisters, Marquesa and Nochka are still hanging around, and I feed them outdoors.

For some reason, they resisted my efforts to civilize them!

Dr. Gary S. Goodman, President of Customersatisfaction.com Customersatisfaction.com, is a popular keynote speaker, management consultant, and seminar leader and the best-selling author of 12 books, including Reach Out & Sell Someone®, You Can Sell Anything By Telephone! and Monitoring, Measuring & Managing Customer Service, and the audio program, “The Law of Large Numbers: How To Make Success Inevitable,” published by Nightingale-Conant. He is a frequent guest on radio and television, worldwide. A Ph.D. from USC’s Annenberg School, a Loyola lawyer, and an MBA from the Peter F. Drucker School at Claremont Graduate University, Gary offers programs through UCLA Extension and numerous universities, trade associations, and other organizations in the United States and abroad. He holds the rank of Shodan, 1st Degree Black Belt in Kenpo Karate. He is headquartered in Glendale, California, and he can be reached at (818) 243-7338 or at: mailto:gary@customersatisfaction.com gary@customersatisfaction.com.

Like many older breeds, the origin of the Maine Coon is unclear and steeped in rumor. Some believe Maine Coons, also known as American Longhair, American Shag, American Forest Cat, American Snughead and Maine Trick Cat, are a cross between semi-domestic wild cats and raccoons (doubtful if not impossible). Others believe that Marie Antoinette sent her beloved Angoras to America for safety. They escaped and inbred with wild cats. Still others believe a cat was brought to Maine by Captain Coon and the cat escaped to live in the wilds of Maine.

Whatever the origins, it is generally agreed that the Maine Coon is the one of the oldest Native American breed of cat and they were an established domestic and hunting cat by the 1800s, but were not recognized as an actual breed of cat until 1967. Maine Coons are a hearty breed due to the New England winters they endured early on. This has resulted in a semi-long shaggy coat in almost all colors that makes it look like a wild Lynx. This coat does require regular grooming, which is enjoyed by the cat.

Maine Coons males will reach an average weight of thirteen to eighteen pounds and females of nine to twelve pounds, though with their thick coats, they may look larger. They mature slowly and are not considered adult until somewhere between ages three and five (when they stop growing) and will live approximately twelve years.

Maine Coons do enjoy their human companions, but do not need their attention. They prefer instead, to spend time with them in the same room, but not necessarily to interact. They are not a lap cap, and can be quiet independent, but will follow people into other rooms to be near them. Unlike many breeds, Maine Coons do not like to jump or perch in high places, instead preferring to chase things on the ground.

Some Maine Coons can be trained to play fetch and generally do well with children, thanks to their loving nature. This breed is generally healthy but can be prone to hip dysplasia and cardiomyopathy. Some Maine Coons are born with an extra toe, though this does not mean anything for them medically, it will only disqualify them from being shown.

There is a website that has great information on Maine Coon and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:

dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2007

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter, or on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 6 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25 years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970’s-80’s.

Seasonal Vacation Spots

seasonalvacationspots.com seasonalvacationspots.com

As all cat owners know, a feline can be a wonderful addition to any
family. One of the most basic aspects of cat ownership is proper health
care for the cat. Health care for a cat encompasses a wide array of
vaccine shots, flea protection, vet visits, medications, and even proper
exercise.

However, the most important aspect of cat health is also often
overlooked. People spend hundereds of hours and thousands of dollars over the
lifetime of a cat to keep it healthy, but most cat owners don’t pay
nearly enough attention to the proper cat food.

The right cat food is absolutely essential to a healthy, happy cat.

But what is the best cat food for your cat? While each cat will have
slightly different nutritional needs, there are some general rules that
must be considered when looking for cat food.

First of all, cats (like their human owners) need a high quality diet.
This means the best types of protein, fats, carbs, and the less
preservatives and chemical additives, the better. Most of the research
available online does not compare specific brands of cat food, as much as
specific ingredients to feed your cat, and which to stay away from!

Cats need a high protein diet. Wild cats are very carnivorous, and cats
derive a great deal of their nutritional needs from protein. House
cats, while not wild, still have many of the same nutritional needs as
their wild feline ancestors. So, the most important ingredient in any cat
food is protein.

Carbohydrates are also an important part of a cats diet, though not as
important as protein. Cats really should derive the majority of their
nutritional needs from protein, so cat foods that are high in
carbohydrates may not necessarily be the best for them.

Interestingly enough, many of the premium brands of cat food, such as
Eukanuba and Innova offer exactly what most cats need, and aren’t
necessarily more expensive in the long run. This is because high end cat
foods need a smaller serving amount than the low end cat foods to give a
cat all the nutrients they need to be satisfied and healthy.

When comparing a premium brand such as Eukanuba, to a lower cost brand
such as Purina, the cost difference for the recommended serving size is
only a nickel a day. Furthermore, because a cat will eat less of the
high end cat food, their waste will be reduced. This can cut down on the
frequency of litter replacement and litter box related chores.

Another aspect of cat food to be considered is the quality of the
protein in the food. Because of the way many pet food companies describe the
meat in the food, it can be difficult to figure out exactly what the
difference between “chicken flavored”, and “chicken dinner” is.

Food that contains “chicken meal” can only be made from the skin,
flesh, and bones only. This is really the best type of protein for a cat.
Food that has “meat byproducts” can contain nearly any animal parts, and
are of lower quality than “chicken meal”. Food that is “chicken
flavored” only has to taste like chicken, but may not contain any animal meat
at all. Also, chicken is generally better than beef for cats.

And it goes without saying, preservatives, as well as artificial
colors, should be avoided whenever possible. Although specific research is
lacking on this subject, we do know that preservatives and artificial
colors can have a negative impact on human health. It is only logical that
cats will also be negatively affected by artificial colors and
preservatives in their cat food.

Greg Podsakoff is an avid cat owner, having recently adopted Hercules the cat, and is dedicated to finding the best ways to care for any cat. Find out more about proper cat care at: cat-care-cat-information.com cat-care-cat-information.com

If you have a pet that you’ve had for a while and want to bring a new one into the home, you may worry about how your old pet will feel about the new one. Both dogs and cats can be extremely territorial and might not take to the idea of a new pet encroaching on what they feel is their home.

Usually if you have a grown dog and bring a puppy into the home, this is usually not too much of a problem. A puppy is extremely active and will want to play with the older dog that may just get annoyed and wish it would leave him alone. The older dog may also enjoy having someone to play with and may take to the puppy as readily as you do.

Cats are a bit different. Once they get older they get set in their ways and are no longer as playful as kittens. A kitten may approach the older cat just to have the cat swat it with a paw but usually the cat will not viciously attack. It may just slink off to a place where the kitten can’t get to it so that it can go back to its nap and have a peaceful place where it won’t be bothered.

The important thing to do when bringing a new pet home is to slowly introduce it to the other animals. When you bring home a kitten, its going to be a bit skittish anyway, not knowing where it is and assaulted by all the new sights, sounds and smells. Its better to segregate the kitten in a carrier or a room for a while until it adjusts. This could take days so don’t feel the need to rush the kitten into meeting its new older brother or sister. Whatever room you first leave it in, you will find that it is likely to spend much of the time hiding from you. It may stay under the bed until you go to sleep and it feels safe. After a while, the kitten may climb into bed with you and curl up in your hair where it most feels as it did when it cuddled up with its mother. You will know when its time to introduce the kitten to the rest of the home because it will show an interest in leaving the room by howling or scratching at the door.

Once you let the kitten out, follow it around as it explores its new home and pay particular attention if it approaches the older animals in the home. If the older animal is a dog that starts to growl, reassure the dog with soothing words. Pick up the new kitten or puppy and approach the dog with it to show that you accept the new addition. This will reassure the dog that it’s ok to have it around. Let the animals sniff at each other and if the dog shows irritation then take the newer one away for a while. Don’t rush trying to make them become friends.

Older cats may never actually become friends with newer ones but they can accept them and be able to live with them in a civilized manner.

Gregg Hall is an author living in Navarre Beach, Florida. Find more about this as well as
petmedicationandsupplies.com pet supplies at petmedicationandsupplies.com petmedicationandsupplies.com

Our primate friends are becoming closer & closer to us everyday. Have you ever thought back 10 years ago when we use to leave our dogs outside in their kennel & for them to be given our scraps from dinner.

Have you ever thought that we never use to give them hardly any attention & use to think dogs were mainly for security. Well times have changed & so have the way we treat our dogs. Us being the owners, over time have invited the ‘canine pet’ into our living rooms now with big open arms treating the ‘canine pet’ as a family member, therefore, certainly becoming a member of the household!

This has only really taken place in the last couple decades & for some reason we are giving the ‘canine pet’ more attention, taking them on holidays more & more, better quality food, more effective bathing treatments, better tick & flea protection & it’s even going as far as insurance for our pets. There is more attention to our pets these days & that is because the world is changing at such rapid pace, we all need to have that someone special in our lives & for many people it maybe our friend, the canine. They are loyal & extremely smart creatures & we still have so much more to learn about these facinating creatures. I hope one day Man & dog can have an intelligent conversation but would this spoil the bond!

To find out more about our ‘best friends’ & join our growing community go to happydog.com.au/” target=”_blank Happydog – The happy place for dog owners

Dog community – Dog tips & info – Blogs – Directory happydog.com.au/” target=”_blank Happydog – The happy place for dog owners