Posts from — February 2007

A new dog is a new addition to your family. The moment you decide to bring one home, you must be a hundred percent sure that you are ready to take on the responsibility owning a dog entails. There are a lot of factors involved in choosing a dog, one of which is choosing the right dog breed. Why and how is what this article seeks to discuss.

Dogs big and small

First and foremost, you must keep in mind that there are approximately more or less one hundred fifty pure breeds to choose from. This number excludes cross breeds, and other undomesticated dogs. This, however, is just a number, and because of the huge number of dog breeds it is most important that you are able to find one most suited to your personality and needs as a pet owner.

While you won’t be able to research all the types of dog breeds, you can very well start on the common pure bred types available in your country or locale. Geographic location plays an important role in choosing a dog because there are dogs that cannot live in certain places due to weather and climate that may be considered to be too harsh for the specific dog type.

To make this search easier for you, you should probably start asking yourself whether you are more interested in owning a small dog or a big dog. From there, you can narrow down your search of the most suitable dog breed for you and/or your family. Small dogs are recommended for people who are always on the go and would like to bring their dogs with them. On the other hand, big dogs will probably appeal to people with children or who are simply more interested in big dogs for companions.

Dog personalities and traits

In addition, your dog must have the personality and distinct characteristics that you find most endearing. Remember, dogs are not created alike and like people they have their own traits (common to a specific breed) that make them different from the rest of the pack. There are dogs which are considered more sociable and more suited for homes which accommodate a lot of guests. Moreover, there are also dogs (both small and big) which can actually be good guard dogs.

These along with other characteristics must be researched by you. No matter how cute or adorable the dog is, if you end up not liking their natural tendencies then you might end up not liking each other at all. So, it is best that you are able to research on the dogs that you are interested in and make a proper assessment of the kind of dog that will fit your life best.

At any rate, you must decide to love your dog in spite of their limitations or character flaws (if there is such a term) that you might not be fond of. Your dog will be most loyal to and will return the love you will bestow on him and this is what is most essential in the relationship between you and your dog.

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When visiting a dog shelter, be sure to observe how the shelter staff members interact with the animals. You should be able to tell whether they truly know and love the dogs or whether they’re just feeding and walking them because it’s their job. They should be able to talk to you intelligently about the characteristics of the various dogs; however, they should never be in a rush for you to adopt a dog. You want them to be as careful about this adoption as you’re going to be. Indeed, if they seem to want you to pick a dog, any dog, and take him or her home with you right away, then they aren’t looking out for their dogs’ welfare, or for yours for that matter. Shelters that are too hasty in their matchmaking aren’t responsible shelters.

It’s important to remember that a well-kept, well-run shelter doesn’t have to be a large, flashy facility. There are many small, financially challenged and perhaps physically unspectacular adoption shelters – some that are completely operated by volunteers – which are wonderful places to adopt. In fact, small shelters with volunteer staffs (you might call them “labor of love” shelters) often know their animals more closely than large shelters do, and they will usually take the time to give every dog and potential adopter lots of attention. The bottom line is this: What matters isn’t whether a shelter has fancy displays and silver dog dishes, but whether it has clean facilities, a committed and informed staff, and reasonable adoption policies and procedures.

When you visit a shelter, you probably won’t be the only one taking notes and making evaluations; the shelter’s staff will be checking you out, too. There is no reason to be nervous. This doesn’t have to be like meeting your in-laws for the first time. Nevertheless, be aware that adoption is a two-way street, and the staff members of a responsible shelter will most likely have as many questions for you as you have for them. Be impressed rather than anxious by their interest, even if their queries occasionally seem snooping or irrelevant. There’s no reason to be defensive or apologetic, and answer honestly; after all, you’re a trustworthy adopter with nothing to hide, right? The shelter employees aren’t trying to trick you or trip you up. Remember, the more they know about you and your lifestyle, the better prepared they’ll be to help you pick the right dog when the time comes.

Lastly, some shelters will ask you (either during your preliminary visit or when you return looking for a dog) to fill out a written “pre-adoption” form before they’ll even show you their dogs. These forms aren’t binding; they are just informational and are used to help the staff get to know you and your needs. Other shelters may have “counseling rooms” where staff members will sit and talk with you before taking you to see their animals. However, most shelters will simply interview you informally as you visit their facility.

Dan Irwin has been ‘in love’ with the

The Pharaoh Hound can live in an apartment as long as she can get frequent runs on the leash through jogging, bike riding or other forms of running. She is a very fast runner and needs to stretch her legs occasionally. Her short coat means that she does better in warmer climates. She is a chaser so beware of other pets. She should not be trusted off the leash as she will take off after a scent or moving object and may be hard to catch. She can jump very high so if you are going to fence an area for exercise, keep that in mind. She generally does like children and she is very affectionate. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Pharaoh Hound is 23 to 25 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 45 to 55 pounds. The female ranges from 21 to 24 inches to the withers and 45 to 55 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Pharaoh Hound is no exception. Although considered an extremely healthy breed, be on the look out for bleeding disorders, heart disease and sensitivity to medicines, insecticides and flea collars. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Pharaoh Hound has a short and glossy coat which is very easy to care for. Brush occasionally to remove dead hair. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Pharaoh Hound can live between 11 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Pharaoh Hound comes from Egypt. They are considered one of the oldest domesticated dogs in the world. They were used to chase down small game. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1983.

Some Registries

Pharaoh Hound Club of America
UKC United Kennel Club
NKC National Kennel Club
CKC Continental Kennel Club
APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
AKC American Kennel Club
FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

7 to 8 Pharaoh Hound puppies

Category

Hound

Terms To Describe

Speed, power, grace, noble, clean cut, alert, balanced, friendly, intelligent, playful, affectionate, fast

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Good watch dog.
Virtually no dog odor.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Poor guard dog.
Not easy to train.

Other Names Known By

Kelb-tal-fewek

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

About the Author

Mitch Endick is a short article writer, editor and website developer for the popular pet site petpages.com petpages.com, a pet information site with free pet ads, dog classifieds, and puppy for sale info. petpages.com Petpages.com also offers information on cats, fish, reptiles, birds, ferrets, rabbits, mice and even pet bugs.

So you’re faced with the hard decision of choosing a bird cage for your bird? Well, there are multiple things to think about, but this article will discuss the 3 most important issues involved in that decision. If you abide by the guidelines discussed below, you’ll find a great cage at a great price that you’re truly happy with. There’s a lot to think about – not just the dimensions of the cage and the spacing between the bars. However, that is a great place to start, so let us cover that first in this article.

Choosing the right size cage & also making sure the bar spacing is safe

This is the very first issue you need to consider when shopping for bird cages. You can’t even look at the other details or features of a cage until you’ve determined it’s the right size of cage and has the right bar spacing. As a general rule of thumb; the bigger the the cage is the better, as long as the bar spacing’s not too wide. At our web store, we separate birds into 3 categories; small birds, medium birds, & large birds. These categories slightly overlap because some birds fit into the high end & the low end of 2 different categories. For example, Lovebirds fit into the small birds category, but they also fit into the medium birds category.

For your education, let us quickly give you the minimum dimensions & maximum bar spacing measurements for most species of birds:

Small birds (i.e. Finches, Canaries, and Parakeets) should be in a cage that is no smaller than 18″(W) x 18″(D) x 22″(H) and they should not have bar spacing that’s wider than 1/2″.

Slightly larger small birds (i.e. Cockatiels, Lovebirds, and smaller types of Conures) shouldn’t be in a cage smaller than 20″(W) x 18″(D) x 24″(H) and they’re bar spacing shouldn’t be wider than 3/4″.

Medium birds (i.e. most Conures, Timnehs, and smaller Amazons) should have a cage that’s at least these dimensions; 22″(W) x 20″(D) x 28″(H) and should have bar spacing no wider than 1″.

Large birds (i.e. Congo African Greys, most Amazons, smaller Cockatoos) should have a parrot cage that is at least 32″ x 24″(D) x 30″(H) & the bar spacing should be no wider than 1″.

The biggest of the big birds (i.e. large Macaws, large Cockatoos, Toucans, and Hyacinth) should be in a cage no littler than 38″(W) x 30″(D) x 48″(H) & they can get away with spacing that’s up to 1-1/2″ wide. Most large parrot cages feature 1″ bar spacing & that is just fine.

If your species of bird isn’t named above, just find a species above that’s similar in size to your bird & follow the dimension & bar spacing guidelines shown.

Choosing a good quality cage & not spending more than you have to

This is another hard aspect to face. If you have owned a generic bird cage before, you know you do not want to go through that again. The majority of first time cage buyers get a very cheap, generic cage, but they usually don’t make that mistake twice. Some of the top brand names around are Kings, Avian Adventures, Invision Cages, Animal Environments, California Cages, Cages By Design, Liberty Cages, Visionary Acrylic Cages, & HQ Cages. At our web store we offer what we consider to be the very best 3 brand names available, but we have heard good and bad about all of them. The reason we offer the cages we offer is for the following 3 solid reasons;

1. The manufacturer’s stand behind their cages & warranties,

2. The materials used are truly tested safe for birds (most manufacturers do not do this), and

3. We’ve offered or seen every brand name listed & have decided what ones we think are the most solid. Most cages offered by the brand names listed above are within approximately the same price range, so you just have to look around & see what fits you budget & your bird’s specific needs. A great place to do research is within online bird forums & bird discussion boards. You can talk with other bird owners who’ve tried the brand name you’re considering & they will gladly offer feedback on the cage that you are looking at. We do offer a bird lover’s forum & the website address is listed in my biography at the bottom of this article. I urge you to visit our forum and others on the web as well, they provide great insight into what cages would work best for you & your bird.

How to choose the best retailer to buy from

This is the third and final part of this article, but it’s only listed last because of how important the 2 factors listed before it are. This too is a very important part f your decision making process. If you can find a reputable store front in your region that offers top brand name cages at decent prices then that may be a good place to start. However, you will probably find that most pet supply store fronts that are offline are either extremely high priced, or they do not have any true parrot cages at all – they strictly offer small economy boxed cages that aren’t large enough for the smallest of birds. This is because local store fronts have a very tough time competing with the internet retailers. Local store fronts have multiple overhead costs that need be buried into their product prices, and online stores do not have much overhead at all. So once you look locally, you’ll most likely be on the web cage shopping. Now that you are online, how do you decide who you can trust? That’s a great question, and not an easy one to answer. There are a few really good indicators that you can use to make a good judgment on who the trustworthy web stores are; One of the ways is something we previously discussed; head to the bird forums – if other people had a pleasant experience with an online store, you’re likely to as well. I also recommend checking the sites you visit for positive customer testimonials. Web sites that do not post positive customer feedback they’ve received, probably haven’t received any positive feedback. If you had one single customer contact you to tell you how great of an experience they had, wouldn’t you place that testimonial on your web store? The last way to help determine whether a business is solid or not is to make sure they take all major credit cards, and not strictly PayPal. A site that takes all major credit cards strictly through PayPal is a red flag in my opinion. You may be wondering why on earth that’s a red flag, well consider this; if a web store takes all major credit cards and the credit card companies receive too many complaints from their customers, they can actually lose their credit card processing account. That’s right, the credit card processing company will actually pull their account & not let them take credit cards anymore. This then forces that online retailer to strictly offer PayPal or Google Checkout as their payment method. All internet retailers should take all major credit cards, and if they do not, it may be because they have lost their credit card processing account because of excessive customer complaints. I’m not saying that a web store shouldn’t accept PayPal as a payment method, they should, but they should also be taking credit cards directly through the store’s shopping cart as well.

Well, we have now covered what I consider the big 3 issues to consider when choosing a cage for your new bird. Again, there are many other factors, but these are the most important in my opinion, and if you follow these guidelines you will be very pleased with the decision you make. Plus, your bird will be proud of the decision you make on his behalf!

Until next time, this is Dave Hermansen signing off. If you’d like to read more great articles or visit the web store I am a part of see my bio below. I’m providing the web addresses for our forum, and the bird cage store I am a partial owner of. Best of luck to you on your personal venture to find the perfect cage for your feathered friend!

NOTE: This article is free to copy and use on other web sites as long as it’s copied in it’s entirety and any links are left in place and active.

Dave is an expert on bird-cage.com/ bird cages for sale in the online market today. Also visit the bird-cage.com/forum/ Everything Birds, Bird Lover’s Forum as well.

Let’s face it. Even though the dog is called ‘man’s best friend’ it still needs to be trained to adapt it to human beings. How we train our dogs? By using a specific set of dog training commands. Every dog owner should know about these dog training commands, so that they can train their dogs to do both simple and complex tasks. In this article, I will give you a comprehensive list of dog training commands. This is list is in no way exhaustive, but it gives you an idea about the commands we most commonly use with our own dogs. As you read though this article, you will discover that some dog commands are pretty similar to those we use when talking to a human. Others are a bit wacky.

1. “Off”: If you want to have your dog focus on certain things or become more attentive to you, then you can use this command. This is really an effective way of increasing a dog’s attention span.

2.”Dog’s Real name”: This is one of the most effective dog training commands that many dog owners don’t seem to use. I recommend you call the dog by its own name whenever you feel like calling it. This will help the dog develop a personal relationship with you and help it understand your commands more clearly.

3. “Good”: If you like something that your dog has done then compliment him using this command.

4.”No”: On the other hand, if you disapprove of something that the dog has done, you can use this dog training command to let it know about your dislike.

5. “Take it”: If you want to give the dog a toy of food or something else, you can use this command to ask the dog to take the thing from you.

6.”Sit”: To tell your dog to sit, use this command. This is the same command we use for humans as well!

7. “Down”: Ever wondered if there is a command you can use to tell your dog to lie down? Well, in case you don’t know, this is the command you can use for this purpose.

8.”Easy” If you want the dog to stop at the last part of the leash and hang around for you, or come back to you and wait, then you can use this highly effective dog training command. Also if you want the dog to be attentive to you even when there are certain distracting elements around, then too you can use this command.

9. “Quiet”: How many times has your dog wrecked your nerves by barking loudly all day long? This simple command will work like a stopper on his mouth.

10. “Kennel Up” – “Bed”: It is night time and you want your dog to have a good night’s sleep. However, your dog doesn’t understand it. Use any of these two commands to tell the dog to creep on to its crate.

As I said before, this list is in no way exhaustive. Also, if you really want to train your dog properly, merely learning a few dog training commands won’t do. To learn about the other aspects of dog training, please take a look at my dog training guide by clicking the link in my resource box below!

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The sight of a human and dog walking harmoniously down the sidewalk, leash loose as if entirely unnecessary, sparks envy in many dog owners who dare to dream of such behavior from their own pets. What this perfect picture does not show, however, is the amount of time, effort, and training that went into teaching the animal how to comfortably walk on leash. Although it is not a natural occurrence for a dog to walk on leash, it is required in many cities, as well as veterinarian offices, and the sooner you begin leash training your dog, the sooner you and your dog will be that perfect picture!

Ideally, the time to begin leash training is around eight weeks of age. At this point, your puppy is mature enough to learn basic commands, like come or let’s go. If your dog is past this age, do not worry. Even an older dog can be taught to walk on leash, but it may take a bit more effort on your part as his bad ‘on leash’ behavior may be quite engrained. To prepare your animal for the leash, first get him used to wearing a collar. Put the collar on for short periods of time at first, and try to distract your dog from biting or trying to remove it. Do not remove the collar when he is actively fighting it; only remove the collar when he is calm and tolerant. Once he is used to the collar, add the leash. Allow him to eat or play (supervised by you) with the leash on so that he can associate it with fun activities. A six foot nylon, non-extendable leash works best.

The key to beginning leash training is getting your dog to come to you when called. Using treats is perfectly acceptable, but be sure to praise as well. You can even begin in your own backyard; have your dog wear collar and leash, and let him walk freely through the yard. Call him to come close to you, and when he does, give him a treat. Hang onto another treat, show it to him, and have him follow you for a short distance. After a minute, give him the treat. You should be able to gradually increase the amount of time the pup follows you, and he learns that following you and paying attention equals treats and praise.

When you are ready to take your dog or puppy out of the backyard, arm yourself with motivation (food). The first few walks should be short, and remember that until your dog learns to walk without pulling, each and every walk is a training session. Begin walking, and give the command of ‘walk,’ or ‘let’s go.’ If your dog follows, say ‘good walk,’ if he freezes and refuses to move, drop a few treats in front of him, leash loose, and wait. Never pull or drag your dog, as this may frighten him even more. You can also try to encourage forward movement by touching the dog’s hindquarters, or turn your back to the dog and wait for him to become bored of sitting there. If, on the other hand, your dog runs to the end of the leash and pulls, stop moving. Do not pull back. As soon as the pup realizes that pulling did not work because you are no longer moving forward, get his attention, and motivate him to follow you in another direction. You are much more likely to keep a puppy’s attention by making a game out of following you, and you will have more fun too!

For an older dog that pulls, stopping alone may not work. Remember that the goal is to walk with the leash loose at all times, so you must be very careful not to allow the dog to experience tension from the leash. Arm position is very important; your arm should be relaxed, slightly bent, with your elbow in toward your body. An outstretched arm offers less control. The instant that the leash becomes taught from your dog pulling, straighten your arm to create slack in the leash, and take a step in a different direction. The dog may feel a tug at the leash, but he will recognize that you made a change in direction that he missed. This will encourage your dog to pay careful attention to your body language, and rely less on cues from the leash.

Leash training your dog can be extremely rewarding, and is essential for a safe, well-exercised pet. Your dog will enjoy trips out of the yard, and you will enjoy the ease with which your pet walks along side of you. You may even become the envy of your neighbors as you and your dog take pleasant strolls throughout the neighborhood.

David Beart is the owner of professorshouse.com www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers professorshouse.com/pets/dogs/dogs.aspx dog information, household finances, professorshouse.com/forum/ family forums, recipes and other household issues.

Dog training hand signals are a great way to get to know your dog and form a permanent bond with him. It is fun for both you and your dog. While he is being trained to follow a verbal command you can teach him to follow hand signals as well. Training your pet using dog training hand signals can be very beneficial. If you need him to follow a command in a noisy or crowded area it may be impossible for him to hear you. Also as a dog ages they often lose their hearing.

When you begin training your dog one of the most important things to remember is to never spank or hit your dog. You want him to associate your hands with good things; rewards and affection, not pain. It’s easy to get started. Begin with a few pieces of your dog’s favorite treat and make sure he’s hungry. You will start with a basic command and associate it with a hand gesture. With repetition your dog will begin to respond to the dog training hand signal. When he responds reward him with the treat.

Once your dog begins responding to the command you are giving him verbally, gradually stop using the verbal command. Use the dog training hand signal you have chosen for the command. Only when he responds using the hand signal is he rewarded with the treat.You will want to start with two basic commands. Once they have mastered these commands you will be able to move on to more advanced training. The basic commands to begin with in your dog training hand signal teachings are “sit” and “down”.

To teach your dog to ’sit “have your dog stand directly in front of you. Hold his favorite treat in your hand. Teach him the verbal command and then add the hand signal you have chosen to represent “sit”. Start by giving the chosen dog training hand signal. Keep your hands at your side, bringing it up and folding your hands as if to throw something. As you do this hold the treat near his nose, while guiding it upward. At he same time you are guiding his nose you will say the command, “sit”. Give him the treat when he sits.

To teach him the “down” command, start with your dog sitting in front of you. Again, teach him the verbal command and then incorporate the hand signal for “down”. The common command for “down” is to have your hand palm facing downward. You will slowly lower you hand to the ground. As you are using your hand to signal, continue repeating the verbal command. Slowly lift your hand over your head. Hold the treat in your fingers. Keeping your arm straight, slowly bring it down until it is hanging at your side. As the treat is passing over his nose, say “down” as you use the dog training hand signal. If he is successfully “down” he will be laying down with his paws and his head forward. When he goes “down” give him a reward.

A well trained dog is a pleasure to own. Your dog deserves to be well trained. He will know what is expected of him and know how to deliver. Taking the time to properly train your dog using dog training hand signals will bring years of pleasure to both of you. It is possible to train your dog at home. It requires patience and dedication. It will be time well spent though. Imagine the satisfaction you will gain when you have successfully trained your dog and can take him anywhere with pride. Get started today teaching your pet with dog training hand signals.

There are many benefits and variations to using dog training hand signals. Click the link to find out more about dogslikefood.com/”target=”_blank Dog Training Hand Signals and a review of the most popular training programs. Author: Lynn Ross, avid dog lover.

Our pets give us so much. They entertain us, listen to our secrets, and give us unconditional love. Losing a pet can leave us with a muddle of other feelings in addition to the sadness: anger, anxiety about other problems we couldn’t address because we were so busy caring for our sick pet, and even guilt, especially if your pet died suddenly or of an unknown cause. We may think to ourselves, “My pet trusted me to take care of him/her. Should I have taken him/her to the vet sooner”? Or maybe we are not convinced our pet got the right medical attention. Losing a pet can also bring up pain from previous losses we have experienced.

When we lose a pet, we may encounter well-meaning people who do not understand why we are so upset about losing “just an animal.” They may encourage us just to “get another one.” Not everyone is bonded in the same way to their animals, and that’s okay. But it’s not whether our loved one was a person or an animal that determines our “right” to be upset. It’s the quality of the relationship and the level of our love. It’s hard to recover fully from the loss of a long, possibly many-year, relationship in just a few days or weeks.

You’re not crazy to hurt so much. You have had a loss, and you deserve support. It may help to talk about it to people you feel understand and will be sympathetic. Grief is a powerful emotion and is one of the most painful we face as human beings. The good news is that if you get a chance to talk and work through some of the pain, grief is a time-limited process. Over time, the pain recedes a bit, and you can access the happy memories of the love you and your pet shared.

It may help to look at grief recovery as a process of convalescence. The dictionary definition of “convalescence” is “gradual return to health and strength after an illness.” Seeing grief in this way can help us to be patient with ourselves during the process and know that, in time, we will feel better again. Crying, some trouble sleeping, or loss of appetite is normal after a loss. But if you are having physical symptoms that are of concern, please seek medical attention. If you feel you may be “stuck” in grief after a long period of time, you may benefit from professional help.

As Leo Tolstoy said, “Only people who are capable of loving strongly can also suffer great sorrow, but this same necessity of loving counteracts their grief and heals them.”

© 2005, Ann Palik.

Ann Palik is a licensed marriage and family therapist in Los Angeles, California, and is a member of the Association for Pet Loss & Bereavement, Inc. She has appeared as a pet loss consultant on the radio program “Talking Animals” on KUCI, 88.9 FM. She can be reached at (310) 840-2341, or mailto:ann@therapy-conscious.com ann@therapy-conscious.com.

So you’re getting a Rottweiler puppy? Here are some general tips to help you choose a healthy, happy Rottweiler puppy.

Note: These are only general tips to help you choose – especially for first-time owners. (There are always exceptions to the rule and I believe every Rottweiler should be given a chance to show that he/she can be a well-adjusted, happy dog.)

#1) Choose one that approaches you or doesn’t shy away when you approach.

Don’t choose one that seems overly fearful or aggressive. Don’t choose one that shrinks back when you come near it or nips your hand. Choose one that seems friendly, lets you hold him/her and handle him/her.

When we went to choose our first Rottweiler puppy, I was convinced that I wanted a female Rotti. When we got to the breeder’s home there were 3 females and 1 male puppy available.

All of the females however, shrank back when I put my hand near them. The male puppy walked right up to my hand and began to happily chew on my diamond engagement ring. I fell in love on the spot and have never since regretted choosing my male Rotti.

#2) Insist on meeting the parents if possible.

Meet the parents first and observe their behavior before getting attached to a puppy. Do they seem friendly, well behaved, easy to touch and get along with?

If the parents are well adjusted chances are high that the puppies will turn out the same way with proper training.

#3) Ask the breeder how many times the mother has had puppies.

The general rule seems to be that a female rottweiler should have at most only 3 litters in her lifetime for optimal breeding results. And, as our breeder told us, it’s also best that she is given adequate time to recover after having a litter, before she is bred again.

If she is being overbred, you might run into some problems, health wise and behavior wise with your Rottweiler.

#4) Examine the back legs.

Rottweilers – and large dogs in general – can have problems with their back hips (hip dysplasia). Hip problems can be extremely costly to fix and heart-breaking, both to the dog and to you.

To find a dog that is less likely to have these problems, examine their back legs. The legs should not be grossly turned out (or in) but for the most part, face forward. (Again, this is a general rule)

Also, ask the breeder about the parents. Do either of them have a history of hip dysplasia? Since experts say hip dysplasia is hereditary this will give you a good idea of whether the puppy you are looking at will run into these types of problems later on in life.

#5 Don’t be afraid to ask questions.

Most reputable breeders will be helpful, eager to answer your questions and know many of the above facts already (without you telling them). They will allow you to ask questions and (if possible) meet the parents to assess their traits.

They will not be pushy (if any breeder is pushing you to buy their dogs, ALWAYS be suspicious) and may even be a bit cautious about allowing YOU to take one of their precious puppies!

Ask the breeder about any health problems in general in the parents or in the breeding line, not just in regards to hip dysplasia. Heart problems? Cancer? Temperament problems? Don’t be afraid to ask.

#6 Keep An Open Mind

When we went to purchase our rottweiler puppy, the breeder was – to the human eye – slightly eccentric. He was more of a dog-person than a people person and we were a little thrown off by his appearance and the state of his home in general.

But he loved his dogs.

And it was plain that he knew more about rottweiler breeding and training than most rotti owners put together. Once we got over our initial reaction and saw the way he treated his Rottweilers and the puppies, we knew that we wouldn’t have any problem with our chosen sweetie.

Make sure you keep an open mind when choosing a puppy. You might walk into something you don’t expect but you also might find the best companion you’ll ever have!

Those are 6 tips to keep in mind when choosing a Rottweiler puppy. Good luck and remember – although they are cute now, Rottweilers grow up to be VERY large dogs. You absolutely MUST start a good training program with them while they are small (and controllable).

It will save you a lot of time, trouble and stress. For more training tips and information, check out our website at: rottweilertraining.homestead.com Rottweiler Training

Good luck and have fun!

Kathryn O’Neill is a Rottweiler lover, owner and chief editor for rottweilertraining.homestead.com Rottweiler Training . For more tips and information about training your Rottweiler, check out:

rottweilertraining.homestead.com RottweilerTraining.homestead.com

Ferrets come in several colors and the albino ferret is favored by many. This ferret is lacking in all color and has a pure white coat, red eyes and a pink nose. A true albino will have no other colors and if you want to show your ferret, make sure there is no staining or discoloration whatsoever on his coat. Other variations on the Albino include ferrets that have white coats and black eyes and ferrets with cream colored to pale yellow coats and red eyes.

Like any other ferret, albinos make great pets will provide you with entertainment and love.
Many ferret owners do prefer that their ferret be white, but this is purely for aesthetic purposes and has nothing to do with the temperament or intelligence of the animal.

In some cases, albino ferrets have been more commonly shown to have more problems with sight as well as hearing but this is minimal and shouldn’t deter you if you really want an albino. In any event, ferrets can adapt quite well to these problems – my ferret was quite blind in her older years and would still run around the house at full speed! Often she would run right into a door or wall but would simply turn a bit and correct herself.

Other colors that one might consider when thinking about purchasing a ferret include the black ferret which is all black with a white undercoat, black eyes and black nose. The black sable which is a dark blackish brown color with a white undercoat, brown or black eyes and blackish brown or speckled nose. The chocolate ferret is a warm chocolate color with white undercoat, brown eyes and pink nose. A lighter version of the chocolate ferret is the champagne who has a light brown coat, burgundy colored eyes and a tan or pink nose. A cinnamon colored ferret is a reddish brown with burgundy eyes and a dark pink nose. The sable ferret is a sable brown with brown or black eyes and a light brown nose. Any one of these types can have different marking such as the mask on the face that is so closely associated with the domesticated ferret.

If you would like to own an albino, you can buy them through many breeders as well as find them in ferret shelters. In the true albinos, you will find that their coats are pale in color and even pure white and they will always have red eyes. The red eyes can be a bit detracting and many people seek out the rarer white ferrets that have dark eyes that are either black or dark blue. Choosing the right ferret for you is a personal one and no matter what color you pick, you’ll have a loving and entertaining companion.

Lee Dobbins writes for Ferrets at