Posts from — January 2007
Shih Tzu – Tips On Eliminating Problem Behaviors During Training Of Your Shih Tzu
Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviors is one thing that most dog owners eventually face. This article will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems.
Problem #1 – Jumping up on people
One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people. Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviors that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning owners. After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 3 pound shih tzu puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your friends. Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small shih tzu puppy with kisses and treats.
This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little shih tzu puppy may soon become a full grown shih tzu dog. Suddenly that cute jumping behavior is no longer quite so cute.
In addition to being annoying, jumping up on people can be dangerous as well. A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically, can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult. In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make you, as the shih tzu dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.
The time to teach a shih tzu dog that jumping up on people is unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle. Retraining a shih tzu dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can be difficult for the owner, and confusing for the shih tzu dog.
When the shih tzu puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your family, gently but firmly place the shih tzu puppy’s feet back on the floor. After the shih tzu puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure to reward and praise him.
It is important for every member of the family, as well as frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow it religiously. If one member of the family reprimands the shih tzu dog for jumping and another praises him, the shih tzu dog will be understandably confused. As with other dog training issues, consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is always inappropriate.
When praising and rewarding the shih tzu dog for staying down, it is important for the trainer to get down on the shih tzu’s level. Giving affection and praise at eye level with the shih tzu puppy is a great way to reinforce the lesson.
Problem #2 – Pulling and tugging at the leash
Pulling on the leash is another problem trait that many shih tzu puppies pick up. Unfortunately, this behavior is also one that is sometimes encouraged by well meaning owners. Playing games like tug of war with the leash, or even with a rope (that can look like the leash to the dog) can unwittingly encourage a problem behavior.
The use of a quality body harness can be a big help when training a puppy not to pull, or retraining a shih tzu dog that has picked up the habit of pulling on the leash. Try training the shih tzu puppy to accept the body harness the same way it accepts the regular buckle collar.
When walking with your shih tzu dog, try using a lure or toy to encourage the shih tzu dog to remain at your side. A training collar, when properly used, can also be a good training tool for a problem dog. When using a training collar or choke chain, however, it is very important to fit it correctly, and to use a size that is neither too big nor too small for your shih tzu dog.
When walking with your shih tzu puppy, it is important to keep the leash loose at all times. If the shih tzu puppy begins to pull ahead, the handler should quickly change directions so that the shih tzu puppy fast finds itself falling behind. It is important to reverse directions before the shih tzu puppy has reached the end of the leash. The leash should stay loose except for the split second it takes the handler to reverse direction. It is important to use a quick tug, followed by an immediate slackening of the leash.
When training a shih tzu puppy, it is important to never let the shih tzu puppy pull you around. Training the shih tzu puppy to walk properly while he or she is still small enough to handle.
It is important not to yank or pull on the shih tzu puppy’s neck when correcting him. A gentle, steady pressure will work much better than a hard yank. The best strategy is to use the least amount of pressure possible to achieve the desired result.
Connie Limon is a shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: stainglassshihtzus.com stainglassshihtzus.com
January 29, 2007 No Comments
My Spoiled Dog and Spoiled Rugs
Two thirds of the floors in my house are covered in ceramic tiles. The rest is carpeted. Tell me, why is it that my dog has to vomit on the carpet? I have actually observed him, in his nauseous quest for somewhere to throw up, search through the house for a convenient rug, then chuck up all over it, rather than stay where he was and be sick onto the tiles, which are oh so much easier to clean.
Dogs are strange creatures, I have decided. Our pooch is particularly spoiled, as we rescued him from an unhappy life and we believe we should somehow atone for his early misery. As a result he has grown in dignity and craftiness. He can hear a treat packet being opened from fifty yards, and he knows by instinct when his bath is being planned and manages to escape capture indefinitely.
There is one corner of our garden which is thickly covered with a bush giving out sticky burr-like woody beads, and these little beads can entwine themselves into our dog’s long fur and resist all efforts to extract them. He makes a bee line for this bush every time he goes out, in spite of going through numerous painful sessions of burr extractions from his face, legs and undercarriage. I am now certain he does it for attention, as he knows if he is covered in sticky burrs, then someone must remove them.
The latest foible of this spoilt mutt is to refuse to eat his dinner unless my husband and I are sitting next to him. This sounds little enough to do for him after his early traumas, but in fact it can be very inconvenient to give up that particular ten minutes of the day, especially as it coincides with the preparation time of our own meal. All the same, we do sit there like two idiots, totally in the control of this small furry despot.
Someone suggested to me we need to take him to obedience classes, but I really think that what we need is a doggie psychiatrist. Or perhaps just a psychiatrist.
Jan Gamm writes reflections on life with an emphasis on world travel. She has lived in many countries and traveled extensively in the Far East, the Middle East, America, South America and throughout the South Pacific. She writes for fun and for money whenever she can manage it.
January 29, 2007 No Comments
Dog Panic Attacks Explained
It’s a strange notion if you haven’t come across it before, but a dog panic attack can be a real problem. A dog panic attack is exactly the same as human panic attack, but with a dog there is more potential for a violent reaction, which is why we need to understand exactly what’s happening.
What constitutes a dog panic attack?
You’ve probably seen a dog panic attack before, although you may not have realized it. Any dog that tries to attack you for no reason is more than likely suffering a panic attack. It may be that you are seen as threat to them, in which case their reaction will be one of fight or flight – a classic symptom of a panic attack – and if the dog has nowhere to go it will turn on you in it’s panic.
Some dogs are very nervous, and if you approach them without making them aware of you, they can panic when they suddenly realize you are there. This would be a dog panic attack.
In addition to this kind of dog panic attack, there are those which can be due to the physical or psychological health of your dog. If you suspect your dog may be having panic attacks, the first thing to do is give him a good health check. You might want to look for the following signs and symptoms;
* Is your dog off his food?
* Are there any obvious signs of injury?
* Has he stopped running, or is he walking with a limp?
* Does he look under the weather or irritable?
* Is he sleeping more than usual?
Any of these could increase the potential of your dog suffering a panic attack.
If things are a little more serious than that, and your dog is obviously in pain, take him to the vet as soon as possible. They will conduct a thorough physical examination and confirm whether there is a likelihood of a dog panic attack occurring. Vets understand more than most how animals cope with anxiety, stress and pain.
Is there a cure for dog panic attacks?
Unsurprisingly, a dog panic attack can be treated in much the same way as a mild human panic attack. One of the best remedies is affection. Give your dog some extra love and attention, and it may just be enough to make them feel secure again and bring them out of their depression. They are very simple animals, and an open display of affection shows them they are loved, much like children in many ways.
If there is an underlying physical condition causing your dogs panic attacks, your vet will be able to prescribe any medication. Resist the urge to give your dog any medication intended for human consumption, this can be fatal.
Peter Coughlin writes on anxiety and stress related issues for various ezines, websites and publications. For more information about panic attacks please visit his PanicAttackTips.com Panic Attack Tips website.
January 28, 2007 No Comments
The Humorous-Appearing Brussels Griffon
The Brussels Griffon has an abundance of monikers, among which are the Griffon Bruxellois, Belgian Griffon, Petite Brabancon, and Griffon Belge. In Europe the Brussels Griffon (Griffon Bruxellois) is a reddish-pin in color and rough coated. The Belgain Griffon (Griffon Belge) is black, black and tan, or red and is also rough coated. The Petite Brabancon is accepted in the same colors as the other griffons, but is shorthaired. Now after all that, one can just remember that all varieties are shown in common classes in the United States and in the UK, but in Europe they are differentiated by color and coat type.
The coat care of a Brussels Griffon depends on whether the Griffon is rough or smooth coated. A rough coat requires regular combing and every few months the facial hair needs plucking. This plucking of the facial hair gives the dog its typical appearance.
I say the Brussels Griffon is humorous-appearing because of its pointed ears and sharp looking eyes and well…..just humorous-appearing.
The Brussels Griffon was developed in Belgium from crosses between the Affenpinscher and the Griffon D’Ecurie or Stable Griffons that were sometimes called chiens barbus. The popular peasant’s dog was developed in and around farms and stables to control rodent populations. I guess it was a real good mouse catcher in the beginning! Some authors speculate that the Yorkshire Terrier, Black and Tan Terrier and Tuby Spaniel were included in the Affenpinscher-Stable Griffon gene pool that produced the Brussels Griffon. Yet another writer traces the Brussels ancestors to include the Barbet and Hollandsche Smoushound. Pugs were also developed nearby in the Netherlands and were crossed into this mixture. This cross might account for the smooth variety or Petite Brabancon that strongly resembles the Pug.
The attitude of a Brussels Griffon is one of an exceptionally intelligent dog. The Brussels Griffon is athletic enough to participate in obedience and agility trials. The Brussels Griffon is quite easy to train and therefore could probably make a good therapy dog. They are usually sensitive to cold weather and should wear a coat or sweater when going outside in cold weather. The Brussels Griffon is a curious little dog and perhaps a bit mischievous (another trait I can see in its eyes, which makes me think the Brussels Griffon is quite humorous-appearing). He can also be described as calm and eager to please, and as stated before, easy to train. He may show a bit of a stubborn streak according to some writers about the Brussels Griffon’s attitude. It is said even today household rodents are at high risk wherever a Brussel Griffon dwells. This little dog does bond snugly with its principal owner or handler, but can extend its love toward every family member.
Generally the Brussels Griffon is said to be lovable, funny, active and an intelligent family companion. The Brussels Griffon socializes well with adults and children. He may be a bit wary of toddlers if not properly introduced.
A Brussels Griffon exercise requirements are minimal and can usually be fulfilled in the backyard and probably would thoroughly enjoy walks through the countryside whenever possible. He is well suited for apartment or suburban living as well.
He is a small breed that stands about 7 to 8 inches tall and weighs 8 to 12 pounds. Take a close look at the Brussels Griffon’s face and you will see an almost human expression and a resemblance to its Affenpinscher heritage as well. His body is thick and short and sort of looks square in appearance and his legs are straight. I again see a very humorous-appearing breed of a toy dog. I can’t help but think, however, how sort of sweet and cute he looks through his eyes and other facial features. And since I don’t like cats, this little dog would be my second choice (to regular mouse traps) for catching mice around the house!
This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.
Author: Connie Limon. Visit us at abouttoydogs.com www.abouttoydogs.com About Toy Dogs is a guide to the selection and care of toy dog breeds. We feature articles, dog training resources, dog books, dog supplies and a toy dog breeder directory. Purchase ad space at the rate of $25 per year for a full page ad for one year. Sign up for our FREE bi-weekly newsletter.
January 28, 2007 No Comments
10 Tips to Keep Your Pets Safe & Healthy During Summer
Summertime is great fun both for you and your pet. But it can also bring along some dangers for your four-legged friend that you might not be aware of. Here are ten tips that take no more than simple care, to keep your pets healthy and safe during summer:
1. Take your pet for walks in cooler hours in the morning or late evening. The hot afternoon sun makes pavements hot which can burn your pet’s feet.
2. While you might enjoy swimming and wish to take your pet along with you, beware that deep pools can cause problems for your pet. It might not be able to get out of water or swallow poisonous chemicals while inside.
3. Take strict measures to prevent fleas. Use a bed of cedar shavings or get a powder from the vet that will help get rid off fleas.
4. If taking your pet along for a road trip, feed it with cool water several times a day and keep it in a cool part of the car which is away from direct sun.
5. Use car harnesses when traveling with your pet in a car. This will help protect your pet from sudden halts.
6. When taking your pet to the beach, keep it off the hot sand which might burn it’s feet. An umbrella will provide good shade and regular drinking of cool water will help it stay cool throughout the visit.
7. If your pet spends most of the time outdoors, make sure it has a lot of shade to play and rest under and ensure ample supply of drinking water.
8. Never leave your pet in a parked car during summer. Cars get hot quickly and pets can die of heat stroke.
9. Keep your pet from playing on the lawn. Lawn grass with weed killers and pesticides can provide harmful for pets. Pets can even get poisoned by licking themselves after walking on pesticide treated grass. If you notice vomiting or diarrhea, visit the vet immediately.
10. Regular health checks at home and trips to the vet when necessary, like before planning a summer vacation, will ensure that your pet stays healthy throughout summer. At home, check for lumps under the fur and for any strange changes in eating or drinking habits. Call the vet if something seems suspicious and abide by the vet’s advice.
Looking for more articles on your PetstoGet.com pet’s health, safety and care? For more tips and advice for your pets, visit PetstoGet.com PetstoGet.com
January 28, 2007 No Comments
Nervous Rat? Use These Techniques And Your Rat Will Trust You
Trust training is essential for many reasons. With time and patience, trust training can turn the most anti-social rat into a loving companion – great news for the rat, because it will live out its years knowing it’s loved!
Trust training can also ensure your safety, since an anti-social rat can do considerably more damage to you, or even worse small children. Thankfully, the horror stories are rare – but there is evidence of rat bites that cause considerable bleeding, and even permanent damage to fingers or forearms. Why is that? Most of the time, the rat is older or has been seriously mistreated. Remember that trust training takes a lot of time – some people who have used this method say it’s taken them upwards of four hours per day over a number of weeks and months, but the rewards can be priceless.
- Begin with soft food.
Your best assets to begin trust training an anti-social rat are a spoon, and low-fat yogurt, cottage cheese or even baby foods (try feeding your rat a few options in their dish first, to figure out which of the soft foods they love the best).
- Reward good behavior.
Because you can’t yet trust feeding the rat from your fingers, the spoon and soft food comes in handy to draw your rat out of the cage and hopefully onto your hand, arm or lap. This can take days, even weeks, depending on what the rat has gone through (i.e. a lab rat, or even a young rat that’s just scared and shy). Don’t just thrust the spoon at the rat and expect them to come running.
Talk softly, move with care and be patient. It’s often best to reward bit by bit, and break the trust training into 20-minute spurts over the day, giving your rat time, space and encouragement between sessions for maximum effect. Given time, they should learn to identify you with all the good stuff – and leave their bad past or poor behavior behind.
- Rats “learn by doing”.
Keeping a pair of rats is not only preferred, with trust training it’s practically the only way to go. Like most other smart animals, rats learn by watching each other, and a well-socialized rat will help teach its more skittish cage companion to trust you much more quickly and more easily than you can.
Just follow these tips and you will be truly amazed at how your little buddy responds. Lots of people who have had exactly the same issue of having a nervous rat have applied these tips, with added ingredients of love and patience, and now have a happy and relaxed rat. Hope these tips help you too!
Diana Davidson is author of a new neat book on pet rat care which is a great resource that contains information you wouldn’t find at your local library. For lots more pet rat care information, tips, quirky and interesting facts, and answers to your questions visit Diana’s site at rattiesecrets.com/ rattiesecrets.com.
January 28, 2007 No Comments
Measuring Your Dog’s Intelligence
Most owners of dogs are curious to know how intelligent there dog is. A number of none too scientific studies have been published ranking particular breeds as to their intelligence. In addition, simple tests that purport to determine whether one’s own dog is smart are also available.
The study that is most often referred to is one presented in a book by Stanley Coren of the University of British Columbia, in Vancouver, Canada entitled “The Intelligence of Dogs”.
The author believes there are 3 types of intelligence displayed by dogs, namely, adaptive intelligence (the ability to problem solve); instinctive intelligence (genetically-dictated behaviors); and obedience intelligence (the ability to obey commands).
As a measure of the latter, Dr. Coren polled some 200 dog obedience judges, asking them which breeds of dogs were most trainable. He then listed the survey results, basing them on how many repetitions it took for the breed to understand a new command and how often the dogs would then obey the command the first time it was spoken. Topping the list were Border Collie, Poodle, German Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Doberman Pinscher, Shetland Sheepdog, Labrador Retriever, Papillion, Rottweiler, Australian Cattle Dog and Welsh Corgi.
Bringing up the rear were the Bull Terrier, Chihuahua, Lhasa Apso, Bullmastiff, Shih Tzu ,Basset Hound, Mastiff, Beagle, Pekingese, Bloodhound, Borzoi, Chow Chow, Bulldog, Basenji and at the very bottom, the Afghan Hound.
Those dog owners whose dogs rank low may take solace in the criticisms that Dr. Coren’s list has attracted. One obvious problem is that the results are based on the subjective determinations of dog obedience trainers. This is clearly not an objective scientific method of measuring intelligence. And this flaw is compounded by the fact that only 200 trainers were surveyed, so that for each particular breed that is ranked, the sample size may well have been low and may not be statistically reliable.
Another issue raised by the list is whether obedience is really a good measure of intelligence. For example there are some breeds that seem very bright, such as terriers, which rank low in the survey. But does the fact that they are slow to respond to new commands mean they are unintelligent, or merely that they are independent and not overly doting on their masters. Be that as it may, dog owners whose pets rank highly probably enjoy and take comfort in the results.
A number of do-it-yourself tests for dog owners to measure their particular pet’s adaptive intelligence can be found on the internet and in Dr. Coren’s book as well. These involve things like:
(1) Letting your dog sniff some food he likes, then placing the food under an empty soup can and timing how long it takes for him to knock over the can to get the food;
(2) Having your dog sniff a large bath towel, then throwing the towel over his head and measuring how long it takes for him to free himself; and
(3) staring intently into your sitting dog’s face and when he looks at you, counting silently to three, then smiling broadly, and seeing whether he comes to you, tail a-wagging or not, or whether he does not move at all, or moves away from you.
Whether tests such as these provide any real feedback as to the actual intelligence of one’s dog is very debatable. Really, as a dog owner, what should interest you is your pet’s willingness to obey your commands and his overall temperament. And for people who do not yet own a dog but are seriously considering getting one, the best advice is to speak with a couple of local dog breeders, tell them what characteristics you are seeking in a dog and then heed their advice.
Colin Albert manages the TakeCareofYourPet website. The website features a product called Hope for Pets, an all-natural supplement that he believes is the top natural takecareofyourpet.com dog nutrition supplement on the market to help promote long, healthy lives for our dogs.
January 27, 2007 No Comments
Sneaking into Hotels: How To Outfox the Front Desk Dragon-Lady to Get Your Pet in the Room With You
I’ll bet I’ve snuck into some of the best hotels in the world. You name them in Orlando, Miami, Boca Raton, Seattle, Toronto, Houston, Denver, Aspen, Portland, Vancouver, Whistler, or San Antonio…I’ve been there.With my dogs and ferrets, that is. Yes, I must confess that at one time, as I traveled around North America, with two toy poodles, later with two ferrets, I had no choice but to sneak them into hotels, motels, inns, and resorts when traveling for both business and pleasure. In those days, it was tricky work, especially with the two toy poodles. My wife had to distract the front desk personnel so I could sneak in a back door, zip down the hall to the room we had just checked into, then in a flash glide into the room, calm them down, pleading with the younger one, not to bark. Whew!Spenser, the little barker, always was a yappy cuss. He gave me no end of anxiety. Katy was older, wiser, and almost Queen-like.
She understood that she didn’t need to exert her authority over everyone and everything around her, so she was mostly quiet. Sometimes, we had to wait for nightfall to provide more cover. We would reconnoiter the surroundings, check out all the available entry points, calculate the distance from the entrance to our room, or even choose a room by specific number when checking in, because we knew it was closest to the entrance in the back parking lot. This ’scoping out’ exercise was not just to get them into the hotel, but also to facilitate the night pee and poop breaks too. I’ll never forget the Saturday night of my 50th birthday. We were in the little town of Ouray, Colorado. It’s half way between Durango and Montrose on highway 550. Ouray is named after a famous Indian Chief in the area, and advertises itself as the “Switzerland of America”. It is a neat little spot in a circular canyon, surrounded by immense vertical cliffs. There are not that many hotels or motels in town, so we had to quickly pick one that was a bit back from the main road through town, so we would not be seen by passersby, who might blow the whistle.
This incident is special in my memory, since, as I said, it was my 50th, and we were planning on a nice celebration dinner in a restaurant on the main drag. But after nightfall, it was starting to get cold, so we didn’t dare leave the two poodles in the vehicle, since they would get cold and might start to whine. The woman who owned or managed this motel was a real ‘dragon lady’. She had accusingly asked me three different times if I had pets. I knew that if she heard them in the room, we were toast.
It took a while to get them both calmed down and we took the chance of going out for dinner. It worked, since we weren’t thrown out when we returned. But around midnight, I had to take them both out for the final constitutional. We had been forced onto the second floor, a walk-up stairs (I did the walking, holding one in each arm) and this was trickier in the dark of the back stairwell. I nearly fell forward, flat on my face, twice tripping over my own feet. I made it, by sheer luck, got the necessary business conducted, and then safely back into our room, without being seen. When dawn arrived, with full light, we had to sneak them out of this hotel, quickly, so this woman was not chasing us down the street. She looked and sounded like someone who would. I didn’t want to press my luck or push her overly-officious, little Napoleonic-like buttons. We got the entire vehicle packed carefully – that means I did it all, while my wife kept the two of them quiet as mice – and then in a flash, with one each in our arms, the two of us raced for the car, fired up the engine, and shot out of there by way of a back street, burning rubber, before the dragon lady could ever know. Sneaking ferrets into lodging establishments is much easier.
Ferrets are prized as pets, especially in condos and apartments. They don’t bark or meow or make any noise. All poop breaks are conducted within the confines of their cage. We would carry them in a nice ‘Sherpa’ bag (meant for small dogs or cats) and they were just fine. However,standing there lying like some impersonator to the front desk clerk, is not a thing of which I am proud. This anxiety and extra stress has now disappeared. I discovered Pets Can Stay.com. This is a unique pet-friendly web site and free travel service, where hundreds of lodging establishments that welcome and honor pets allow you to stay in the same room with your pets. Not every hotel can join this group. To become a member of their system, each establishment must adhere to certain pet and guest-oriented standards that ensure the traveling pet owners’ best interests, and those of her or his pet(s). Sure I know that there are hundreds of “pet-friendly online directories,” but how do you know what you’ll get until you arrive? What ‘surprises’ are waiting? How will you know for sure that the standards of accommodation you seek for both you and your pet(s) will be met?
To my way of thinking, Pets Can Stay provides some “quality assurance” in that aside from the website, and the services they provide, the Pets Can Stay certification logo provides travelers with “peace of mind” by letting them know that this particular lodging establishment will provide them and their pet with excellent hospitality and service. With this company I have no anxiety regarding what I will find when I get there. This means a lot to me and thousands who travel with their pets. The very best part is I no longer have to fight the hotel dragon ladies of North America. I no longer have to sneak around like a member of the 82nd Airborne on night maneuvers. It’s a big sigh of relief, and just one less nasty problem to worry about when traveling.
©Copyright, Roy MacNaughton, 2006
Roy MacNaughton is a niche marketing coach and business writer. He’s a seasoned marketer, with more than 30 years of international marketing experience, including nine years online. His new e-book, (Marketing Yours), teaches solo practitioners, entrepreneurs and professionals how to market their most important product. Learn more at his blog: UmarketingU.com UmarketingU.com. For more information on traveling with your pet, go to: petscanstay.com petscanstay.com
January 27, 2007 No Comments
How Do I Stop My Dog From Whining?
Question: My 9 year old female pit bull has become a very vocal whiner. She whines all day long. Sometimes I know what she wants but most of the time I don’t. She lives in a house with a lot of people and they are always spoiling her. I know that’s part of the problem. Do you have a suggestion on how I can minimize the whining? – from Kat
Answer: Great question – and you will be relieved to know that you are not the only dog owner that has experienced this behaviour. Anyone that has owned a puppy knows that whining is a constant problem. However, most puppies outgrow this behaviour with time. Your situation is a bit different because your dog is 9 years old and has apparently just started exhibiting this behaviour recently. Lets look at a couple different types of whining:
Whining for attention – some dog owners inadvertently condition their dog to whine more by rewarding the whine with some form of attention. This attention could be a simple as eye contact, or more direct like petting. To break this cycle, it works best to simply ignore the whining completely – do not give any notice or attention to the dog until it stops. Sometimes using a signal that you will withdrawal your attention works well. For instance, blow a kazoo to signal that you are ignoring the dog until the whining stops. This can often times work faster than simply ignoring it completely.
Whining when Anxious – If you dog is whining when nobody is around, it may be a component of separation anxiety syndrome. Dogs with this syndrome will whine simply when they cannot see their owner. If this is what your dog is doing you might want to visit with your vet about available medications for this condition.
Treatment
Ignore whining for petty things your dog wants. By giving a bone to your dog when he whines, simply reinforces the behaviour.One idea is to get a simple clicker (available at pet stores) – ignore the whining until it stops then click and reward. Be sure to not click until at least 3 seconds of silence has occurred.Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise – a tired dog is a happy dog!The biggest thing to remember is that all dogs whine, it is simply a way for them to communicate with us humans. However, this can also become very annoying, and needs to be dealt with swiftly and consistently. Your biggest challenge, Kat, will be that there appears to be many “owners” in your household. Every person in your home will need to correct the dog exactly the same way. I would suggest sitting everyone down and going over the “ground rules” – even show by example how you are ALL going to get this problem corrected.
Do you have a question about your dog? Visit our pet-guides.com Dog Question Form to submit it.
To see all the dog questions that have been submitted visit pet-guides.com/blog/ Dog Answers – feel free to share your knowledge, and leave an answer or tip to any of the questions.
January 27, 2007 No Comments
The Basics of Bearded Dragon Care
The bearded dragon is undoubtedly one of the most interesting pets one can own. Even if you don’t like lizards, the bearded dragon’s playful disposition and unique characteristics might just win you over. If you are already a proud owner of a bearded dragon (or “beardie” for short), or are thinking about purchasing one, then please read on for some crucial info on how to care for these unique lizards.
The most significant element of bearded dragon care is to have the right type of environment ready and assembled for your new found friend once he arrives in his new home. First, make sure that the cage is large enough. If you’re buying a baby bearded dragon, then he is definitely going to grow. So, make sure that you’ve allowed plenty of room for your bearded dragon to develop properly. Ideally, you want
a tank that is a minimum of forty gallons, but a 50 gallon tank is even better.
You’ll need to think about what kind of substrate you want to put into the tank as well. Substrate is a hotly debated subject and there are many different options. If you are going to have a young lizard, it’s highly recommended that you avoid any loose substrate, like sand. Paper towels, newspapers, or indoor/outdoor carpet are better choices. As your pets grow and get older, the risk of digestion of loose substrate decreases and washed play sand can be used. This type of substrate make it easier to scoop out feces
from the cage. Any bark, corncobs, or nut shells should always be avoided as they can cause severe problems if accidentally swallowed.
Furnishing your pet’s home is very important as well. Beardies prefer both shade and light, so it’s important to give them both options. They also are a sub-arboreal animal, so they like to perch off the ground. So, a silk plant or greenery from your local pet store for lizards will make a great addition to the tank.
Artificial rocks and branches make great additions to a bearded dragon habitat, as do reptile boxes which are made especially for bearded dragons and similarly sized reptilian pets. Water should be provided in a shallow dish. The tank can occasionally be misted, but not so much that it causes the environment to cool or become humid in any way.
The bearded dragon is cold blooded, so it’s important to have an adequate heat source for “basking.” There are lamps especially designed for reptiles, which you can find at the pet store. The proper
lighting for a bearded dragon habitat would be a low watt bulb with a mirror reflector on it. For optimum health, make sure your bearded dragon has a properly balanced diet of leafy greens, fresh vegetables, meal worms, and gut worms. Crickets and pinky mice are also good choices as food.
Bearded dragons are truly magnificent creatures, but they require very specific care. They aren’t necessarily high maintenance; however, like most reptiles there are certain things they need, and more importantly lots of things they cannot have. Hopefully, the above guidelines give you a good idea of what is involved in owning and caring for a beardie.
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January 27, 2007 No Comments