Posts from — December 2006
Tropical Fish Breeding for Beginners – Guppies and Swordtails
Breeding tropical fish can be a lot of fun. Try your luck at breeding livebearers such as guppies or swordtails.
Equipment Needed:
Breeder Box or Breeder Net
Breeding Grass
5 or 10 gallon tank for the baby fish or a tank divider that you can use for your main tank.
A pair – 1 female and 1 male, 2 females to 1 male works even better
Two of the more popular tropical fish for beginners has to be Guppies and Swordtails. Guppies and Swordtails are livebearers which means that their babies come out swimming. Like most livebearers, there is not much to getting your guppies or swordtails to breed. If you have a male and a female then you will eventually have a pregnant female. The gestation period for livebearers is usually 28 days but can range from 20 to 40 days.
Place the male and female in the same tank together and they will soon mate. You are probably asking, how can I tell when the female is pregnant? When a female guppy is pregnant she will develop a dark triangular shaped gravid spot near her anal vent. This will get larger and darker as the pregnancy progresses. While you are waiting on the female to develop the babies it’s time to make sure you are prepared for the delivery. We use plastic breeder boxes and always have without any problems. A breeder box is a small box plastic box about 4 inches long by 3 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
There is a removable “V” shaped trap in it which serves to separate the mother from the babies. When the mother fish has babies they fall through the slot in the “V” into the bottom of the box. After the mother is finished having babies, you can remove the “V” trap and the mother so that they babies have more room to grow. Some people have had bad experiences with breeder boxes and now only use a breeder net. It is also a good idea to purchase some real or plastic breeding grass for the top of the aquarium. The breeding grass is just in case the mother gives birth before you have a chance to put her in the breeder box. The young babies instinctively will swim to the top of the aquarium and the breeder grass provides a great hiding place so they won’t get eaten by the bigger fish in your tank.
To feed your new arrivals you can use finely crushed flake food. Using your fingers, you can rub the flakes into a fine powder. Some only feed live foods such as baby brine shrimp. Live foods would definitely be the best way to go, but for most this is simply not feasible. Crushed or powdered flake food will suffice. Try to feed the babies 3 very small meals per day. You will invariably feed too much and the excess food will drop to the bottom of the tank or breeder box. To clean a breeder box we like to take a 3 ft. length of aquarium tubing and a small bucket. Use the tubing as a siphon to clean the bottom of the breeder box. Be careful not to siphon any baby fish.
Try to perform 25% water changes weekly for your baby guppies. This will aid in the optimal growth of your baby tropical fish. After a few weeks in the breeder box your new babies will soon outgrow their home and you will need to move them either to a new tank or your main tank with a divider installed. By 8 weeks old your baby fish will most likely be able to return to the main tank without a divider.
For more tropical fish and aquarium information, please visit fishlore.com FishLore.com – Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.
Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! FishLore.com FishLore.com – Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information
December 31, 2006 No Comments
Arthritis And Your Canine Companion
I remember watching a TV show once. It was a comedy. The one person made a derogatory comment about a dog and the dog supporter replied that dogs were people too. It was supposed to be funny, but the truth of the matter is, dogs are very much like people in many respects. One of them is arthritis, which affects dogs pretty much in the same way as it affects people. In this article, we’re going to present some basic facts about arthritis in dogs that hopefully will help you care for your canine companion in his time of need. He will more than thank you for it with the love that he’ll give you.
Unfortunately, dogs, like people, age. Puppies don’t stay puppies forever. And as a dog ages, he is susceptible to many of the same ailments as humans, especially arthritis. The first thing you need to know is when to be on the lookout for when your dog might be developing arthritic conditions. This is greatly influenced by the size of the dog. For small to medium dogs, you should be on the lookout for arthritic conditions around age 9 to 11. For large dogs, it’s between the ages of 8 and 10. For giant breeds it’s between the ages of 7 and 8. Compare this to cats, who usually don’t start getting old until the age of 12, and you can see that dogs are more susceptible to arthritis than cats.
The first thing that’s important about dealing with your dog’s arthritis, assuming that he has been diagnosed with having this terrible disease, is to manage your dog’s weight. The more weight he has to carry around with him, the harder it is going to be on his joints. So it is important to keep your dog on a strict diet and see that he doesn’t become overweight. This means no more scraps off the dinner table. Yes, I know he likes them but they’re not any good for him.
Another thing that is important is to get him as much exercise as possible. Naturally, this becomes more difficult as he ages and as his arthritis progresses. But keeping your dog active in early years will actually help prevent him from getting arthritis in later life, or at least greatly reduce the risk. An active dog that is at a proper weight is an overall healthy dog.
There are other things you can do to make your dog’s life a little easier should he develop arthritis later on in life. One thing you can do is to make sure you provide a bed for him that is heavily padded and comfortable. This will make resting and sleeping a lot easier. Also, elevate his food and water bowls so that he doesn’t have to bend down as much. This will also ease the strain on his arthritic joints.
Most importantly, show your dog as much love as you can each day. Just like people, your dog has feelings and during this time if suffering he needs your love more than ever.
Yes, dogs are people too.
Visit our web sites for more information about dog-arthritis-help.com arthritis care for dogs . To get a free home made pet recipe book plus money off pet product coupons visit natureshealthypet.com natureshealthypet.com and sign up for the free pet food recipe books.
December 31, 2006 No Comments
Bad Dog Behavior in the Four Corners – Which Is Most Difficult To Change?
We have four corners for four dogs, each with an extreme bad dog behavior. In Corner Number 1 we have Aggressive Dog Axe, who bites people and other dogs. He is unpredictable. In Corner Number 2 we have Shy Dog Skye, a dog who is such a fearful dog that she urinates every time a new thing comes in contact with her, especially new humans, but also new sights and sounds. In Corner Number 3 we have Willful Dog Willie, a dog who lies down when called or put on a leash, forcing you to drag him when he does not wish to listen… or even worse, he simply walks the other way and ignores your calls. Our last finalist in Corner Number 4 is Hyperactive Dog Holly, who is sooo hyper that she cannot focus at all when there is a distraction of even a simple sort. Let’s not go there on big distractions, like another dog or human. Why, she pulls so intensely that she has sores on her neck. Her owners are so embarrassed by her that she is no longer walked and cannot even be in the house when guests are present.
The four contestants wait eagerly for the decision, each facing severe obstacles and in need of a great deal of rehabilitation. The judges hand over the envelope …
For MOST DIFFICULT TO CHANGE, the Runner-Up is Contestant Number 2, Shy Dog Skye!
The judges dare not approach her frontally, for as with all fearful dogs, eye contact represents a challenge. What to do? While Skye is in a cage, approach her with your back to her. Sit down in front of the cage and let her familiarize herself with your scent. Then, without looking at her, back yourself into the cage. Sit for a few minutes and slip a leash on the top of her neck. From here, move forward. If she yanks in terror, pull up in response. Let her release herself from the built-up fear and bring her forward again – all the while avoiding eye contact. Keep pulling up, and she cannot shut down.
Walk Skye for 45 minutes at a heel. Once you are back in the yard, drop her leash and face her. Calmly rub her under the chin to make her feel confident. Do not rub the top of her head for a while, or she will cower down and decrease in confidence.
And the WINNER of the First Place Prize for MOST DIFFICULT TO CHANGE is …
Hyperactive Dog Holly! Who among you would have picked Holly for hardest?
A dog like Holly is the most difficult to change because she is going to push your patience right to the limit if you are not careful. On cannot be frustrated, or allow himself to become so, when handling this type of dog. Being frustrated will achieve the opposite result, increasing her hyperactivity.
Take Holly’s leash and focus yourself on a memory of one time in your life when you accomplished something great. Be sure the leash is looped around the top of the neck. Remember, timing is critical on corrections for her. You also cannot stop until you get exactly what you want.
Let’s say you want Holly to walk calmly on a leash and to stop injuring herself with those sores. Make Holly sit at least a few feet from the door, and have her stay until you want her. Give her a firm TOUCH with your hand or foot if she moves forward without permission. You need to catch Holly at Level 1 – “too much interest” instead of Level 6 – “obsessive fixation.” She can go to Level 6 in about three seconds.
When Holly is calm, put her leash on and take her out, walking calmly beside you. Correct her by pulling UP firmly – not harshly. Each time she tries to move ahead of you, give her a firm correction. Until you feel a little more confidence in handling Holly, remove her from any situation such as another dog or human. Do not avoid the situation; only remove her when she gets obsessive.
There are many gradual steps Holly will need to master in order to calm down and approach her obsessions like a normal dog. Dogs like her often love to be used as narcotics dogs, and are very good at it!
No matter if you have a Shy Dog Skye, Aggressive Dog Alex, Willful Dog Willie, or Hyperactive Dog Holly, be encouraged. Just try to do your best, and be consistent.
GET HELP from Rena Murray at the
December 31, 2006 No Comments
Optimizing K-9 Health And Performance
Every Working Dog handler knows that “Failure to Thrive” and “Hip Dysplasia” are big issues for Shepherds. But do you know why? Genetics and environment. The primary suspects are- pollution (air, water, soil) and a fast food diet.
“Fully 90% of all disease is caused by an unhealthy digestive system!”
The Royal Society of Medicine of Great Britain
Rescue areas can be loaded with airborne pollutants. Often times, their effect shows up long after any immediate connection can be made. Water contaminants can include everything from, chemical spills (transmission and engine coolant are particularly toxic in small amounts) to bacteria from unseen decaying garbage.
Commercial Dog Food Is Fast Food. Canned or dry dog foods are little more than empty calories, which are very difficult to process. Although they satisfy hunger, empty calories do nothing to support health and vitality. Empty calories are hard to digest. Food digestion is a time sensitive process.
Dry dog foods are extruded under extreme heat, destroying any nutritional value they might have had.
Although you won’t find it among the ingredients, recycled restaurant grease is sprayed on dry dog foods as a flavor enhancer. Yet frying temperatures chemically alters oils, making them carcinogenic!
Canned meats contain meat and meat byproducts unfit for human consumption. Canned meats become rancid quickly. Open bags of dry food attract bugs and rodents who deposit eggs and leave toxic droppings.
Low nutrition food remains in the intestinal tract too long where they putrefy; at the same time it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and pathogens.
Chlorine not only kills pathogens and bacteria in municipal water, it also kills the good bacteria in your dogs’ gut. Untreated water soon becomes stagnant, requiring frequent replacement. Water puddles are likely to contain numerous toxic contaminants like engine coolant residues (carcinogenic), bug larvae, and pathogens.
It’s bad enough when the family dog gets sick, but when a K-9 is taken out of action, lives may be at stake.
When a dogs’ GI tract is upset, they instinctively know that eating grass and dirt will settle it. Alas, allowing them to do this could actually make matters worse! Why? Today, soil and grass is contaminated with pesticides, insecticides, inorganic fertilizers, chlorine and chemical runoff.
Most K9 Disease is Reversible!
The steps to restore (or maintain) health are relatively simple, and far less costly than vet visits, medications, or health insurance!
GI disorders develop when your dogs’ GI tract is out of balance. You restore that balance with digestive aid supplements, not medication.
The intestinal wall is the gatekeeper. This is where blood dumps the waste products and picks up the nutrients to feed your dogs’ body.
Once the intestinal wall is inflamed, the nutrition/waste exchange is compromised. Until the inflammation is addressed, the benefits of improved diet, supplements, or medications will be negligible! Chronic inflammation leads to immune system breakdown. Herbal anti-inflammatories are natural alternatives to steroids like prednisone.
Working dogs are often placed into highly stressed environments. Routine administration of nutrient rich food combined with bio-available supplements, and digestive aids is essential.
No matter what age they are when you start, you will soon see improvements in mental and physical performance!
The author of this article is Robert Hart, the co-founder of Vitality Science, Inc., a company that formulates scientifically proven, all natural supplements to restore and maintain pet health- for cats, dogs, kittens and puppies.
Robert Hart has articles published in Fido Friendly Magazine, The Pet Professor, an on-line pet portal, Ani-Med, and pet newsletters.
December 31, 2006 No Comments
Top 5 Dog Health Problem Symptoms
Protecting your dog’s health is the most important thing over anything else. With the proper diagnosis and knowing what to look for will help, you determine some possible reasons for the dog health problems. The top 5 dog health problem symptoms provide knowledge about parvovirus, skin disorders, eye problems, rabies and ear problems. When you see the first signs of a problem, you need to respond appropriately to protect the health of your dog.
Dog Health Problem Symptoms of Parvovirus
Some symptoms of the disease are weight loss, dehydration, vomiting, fever and nasal discharge. If you see any of these signs, you will need immediate medical attention for your dog. Diarrhea is usually the first symptom, which could be from anything, but when other symptoms appear, you will have a better idea of what you are dealing with. A puppy under the age of six months can contract this disease and will ultimately die. Proper vaccination at an early age will protect the puppy from this horrible disease and death.
Dog Health Problem Symptoms of Skin Disorders
Some symptoms of a skin disorder will be scratching, inflammation of the skin, and is some cases a discharge of pus from the area that breaks open due to excessive scratching. This requires medical tests and observation to determine if it results from a parasite, both internally and externally, allergy, bacterial or fungal infections and hereditary. The bottom line is there are two different types of shin diseases, hereditary and acquired.
Dog Health Problem Symptoms of Eye Problems
Red eyes, swollen eyes and weepy eyes are signs of something wrong and should be checked by your veterinarian to determine if is caused by an allergy or a more serious health problem such as conjunctivitis. The problem may also be the result of an injury if the dog plays with other dogs or cats with claws.
Dog Health Problem Symptoms of Ear Problems
Scratching of the ear, discharge, odor and shaking of the head might indicate some type of ear infection. This also might come from a parasite infestation that invades the ear such as an ear mite. Other reasons for symptoms may be trauma, bacterial and allergies, which will result in ear problems as well. Dogs that have ears that hang down covering the ear canal are more prone to ear problems than other dog because no air gets into the ear to dry it up, so it stays moist and invites infection.
Dog Health Problem Symptoms of Rabies
Without proper vaccination, the dog that has an encounter with a rabid animal can contract rabies, which will result in death. Symptoms to watch for are change in behavior, foaming of the mouth, biting and aggressive behavior towards people and other animals. This is probably the most serious dog health problem ever, since it can spread the virus through biting. Immediate containment and medical help is needed at the onset of such symptoms to protect your family and society from the spread of rabies.
You can also find more info on aboutdoghealth.org/dogbreedhealth/Bull-Dog-Health.html bull dog health issues and aboutdoghealth.org/index.html dog health care. AboutDogHealth.org is a comprehensive resource to help dog owners identify their dog’s illness symptoms and treatment options.
December 30, 2006 No Comments
Dog Training-Socializing Puppy at Home
Two terms most new dog owners hear early on are Obedience Training and Socialization.
Obedience Training is pretty self-explanatory. It’s teaching your dog to obey you better. It’s very important, since it helps put the humans in the position of “leader of the pack,” and also helps develop control of the dog and establishment of house rules for her.
Socialization is not quite as clear most of the time. Well-socialized dogs tend to be much calmer and more adaptive to strange situations than dogs that are not given that educational advantage.
Starting at home, you can begin socializing your new dog or puppy by making a point of exposing her to new things in a non-threatening manner. For example, if you seldom wear a baseball cap, it might be a surprise to your dog the first time you do. Things that change your appearance should be introduced to the dog frequently and she should be given time to adapt to them. Wigs, masks, cowboy hats, anything that is different and makes you look strange to your dog is a step forward. It also allows her to begin to comprehend that there are different people out there.
Other things you can do would be like bouncing a basketball near the puppy. Then, let her examine it. Have some crutches lying around? Use them around the puppy and then let her examine them, too. Always encourage the puppy to examine new things, but don’t force her to go near things she’s reluctant to get near. Less is more in this case.
Introduce your puppy to stairs, the car, taking short trips with you, friendly people in your neighborhood. Make it all as fun as you can and praise the puppy or dog when she does well. Allow her to approach things from different angles. Sometimes, just a different angle/viewpoint of an item makes it seem totally strange to the puppy.
An example of this is when I was teaching obedience at a major pet retailer. One thing I used in my puppy classes was a child’s play tunnel. It was six feet long and about two feet in diameter. Many of the puppies would be very leery of this strange thing. For some of them, we would close the tunnel totally up and let them go through it that way, then, we’d slowly let the tunnel out and encourage the puppies to go through it. One of my reluctant (at first) students even decided one day that the tunnel was a great place to just take a nap during class.
The easiest way to do this is to have two family members working with the puppy. Put the lead on the puppy (hopefully she knows what that is) and run it into the tunnel. One family member holds the puppy at one end of the tunnel and the other goes to the far end with treats and takes hold of the lead. The puppy is encouraged to come to the family member with the treats through the tunnel. Work the puppy back and forth, as this will look different from the other end to the dog. Part of what this teaches, too, is trust. Trust that you would not expose the puppy/dog to something dangerous to her.
Other socialization things you can do include handling the puppy’s feet (helps with nail-clipping later), handle her tail and pat her bottom (helps her learn that her bottom is not sacred territory, especially if temps need to be taken at some point), give her a massage now and again (gives you some more control over her body and helps you know when something is wrong with muscles or in case of lumps of some sort). Teach her to be rolled from one side to another without struggling (helpful if she needs to be moved when wounded). All the time you work with her, use lots of praise and try to end all sessions on a positive note.
Once the shot schedule is complete at about 4-6 months, start taking the puppy, or dog (if an older adoption), to places like pet stores that allow pets in, shopping areas where you can have people pet the puppy while she sits nicely, visiting to “grandma’s” house or other relatives’. Going to the vet’s just to say “hi,” dog parks where she can meet other dogs.
Use your imagination about anywhere you might ever concievably need to take the dog. The more you can expose the puppy to other people, dogs, places and activities, the more socialized the dog and the calmer and easier to live with she’ll be. Besides, then she can go anywhere a well-trained, well-socialized dog is welcome and do you proud.
C. Rogers Upson has been training dogs and studying them for nearly 40 years. Her website is dogpotentials.com Dog Potentials and she has two dog-related stores at cafepress.com/keepbts Keeping to the Borders and cafepress.com/dp52 Dog Potentials-The Store.
December 30, 2006 No Comments
How Can I Get Rid Of Fleas On My Cat?
Did you know that a cat typically does not bite and chew when they are bitten bye a flea. In fact a cat may not show any signs of having fleas until they are completely infested with them. A cat will only bite and chew if they have an allergic reaction to a fleas saliva. If your cat doesn’t have a reaction to the saliva and becomes completely infested with the fleas, your cats life is in danger.
Fleas eat 15 times their body weight in blood. Cats are not very large animals to begin with which means it will only take a small amount of fleas and a small amount of time for their circulating blood flow to become seriously diminished. If you don’t check your cat for fleas regularly, you should. You are putting your cat at serious risk for anemia, dehydration and even death if you are not checking for fleas regularly.
Checking your cat for fleas is a very simple process. First, put your cat in an empty tub or sink. Rub their coat vigourously for a minute. If you see any black spots fall from your cats fur put a small drop of water on the black spot, if it turns red when the drop of water is added, then your cat has flea droppings on its skin, which means they have fleas.
There are numerous options to free your cat from fleas and it’s very important that you address the situation immediately. Your cats health and life are in danger bye these little buggers and they need your help to protect them.
To learn more about how to get rid of fleas on your cat, along with step by step instructions to walk you through the process of flea control, go to
December 30, 2006 No Comments
What to Expect From Dog Obedience Training Class
A basic dog obedience training class is one of the best things you can do for your dog or puppy and is a necessary requirement for anyone who owns a dog. The best way to get started with an obedience class is to visit your local pet store or look in the phone book for to find local classes taught by reputable trainers.
The average weekly obedience class meets anywhere from four to eight weeks in a row for an hour to an hour and a half per session. In a number of classes, curriculum may include training on dog’s social behaviors and training-related topics often allowing a certain time to be devoted for exercises like jumping up or controlled walking. You will also be given home work to work on with your dog between classes.
Obedience training doesn’t solve all behavior problems, but it is the foundation for solving just about any problem. Dogs are social animals and without proper training, they will behave like animals. Obedience training class is a good first step way to establishing the social hierarchy and if done successfully will create a firm relationship between your dog and you.
Training opens up a line of communication between you and your dog and can strengthen the pet/owner bond and help each understand the other better. Dog obedience training class can also be used to carry out many of your dog’s fundamental needs like exercise, feeling of accomplishment, the security of understanding what’s expected from him, and to adapt him for social interaction.
Dog behavior can often be directed and controlled by training. If you were to define it would be the control of the environmental and social issues to accomplish desirable actions and decrease undesirable behavior from your dog. The very essence of dog obedience is to direct and control the behavior of your dog.
To do this a good dog obedience training class will help do several things, including: understanding how your dog views the world, understanding of how your dog learns, ensuring that your dog enjoys doing what you want him to do, that you not only train your dog to do what you want, but make sure he understands the words of command, rewarding your dog for the right reasons and using your dog’s natural instincts as a basis for training. For the basic dog obedience training class- the curriculum for novices would typically comprise of the basic exercises like “sit”, “stay”, “heel”, “down”, and “come” for these only reinforce their normal behavior making it easier for your pet to learn more advanced commands as you get deeper into the class.
Dog obedience training class should be fun and rewarding for you and your dog. It is also a great way to make new friends and helpful contacts in the dog world. Remember that a well trained dog is a happy dog.
If you are looking for more information about worfdog.com/Dog-Training/Dog-Obedience-Training.html online dog training please visit the website worfdog.com/Dog-Training/Dog-Obedience-Training.html Worfdog.com.
December 30, 2006 No Comments
Declawing Your Cat
This is a very controversial topic which has a lot of emotion behind but it needs to be looked at. As a cat owner who has experienced difficulty dealing with a cat scratching issue in my home, it is difficult not to be biased but let’s give the issue of declawing its due and see what exactly the pros and cons are.
There are 2 types of surgical procedures which are commonly done to eradicate this problem. One involves cutting the tendon that attaches the claw to the bone in a cats foot. The claw stays intact but the cat can’t use it at all because it is no longer attached to the tendon that works it.
The second procedure employs the use of a laser for cutting. This procedure removes the lateral attachment. The claw is then removed.
Proponents of both these procedures claim there is minimal blood loss and discomfort. They also state that most cats are up running around in no time after the surgery. Great!
However, what they fail to mention is that both procedures are invasive (any surgical procedure is), both require general anethestic, and both can result in complications especially for older cats. The second procedure is quite plainly amputation. They also fail to mention what many people have stated – that post-surgery their cat developed a biting problem that was not prevelant prior to the surgery. What I have read also doesn’t account for the many reports of people’s cats undergoing drastic behavior changes afterwards.
One such advocate I read about stated that “there will be medical reasons and other circumstances where this procedure will be necessary.” But it fails to cite any of those reasons.
For me at least, it all comes back to the question – “How would you like to have part of the anatomy God gave you amputated?” For me, there is only one “pro” After declawing, no matter what procedure you opt to have done, your cat will no longer be able to claw your furniture and carpets. The “cons” however, are still stacked against this and they are many!
We had a terrible experience with our cat Milo, when he recently developed a lower urinary tract infection and had to be admitted to stay 2 nights in a local vet clinic while he underwent surgery and monitoring for this common cat health problem. After seeing how terrified he was at the clinic and then worrying whether he would live or not because he refused to eat anything for a week after we got him home and had to be forcibly fed water to keep him hydrated, we simply could not bring ourselves to consider the idea of declawing no matter how stressful his clawing behavior was.
Milo is part of our family. God gave him all the parts he has for a reason and declawing to us is tantamount to saying he is less important than any other member of our family; something that we couldn’t bring ourselves to think.
Pets count on us to look after their best interests. When we take on the responsibility of owning a pet we make what should be a statement of promise to protect them, nuture them and ensure that they are looked after. If you are considering declawing as a way to deal with your cats clawing behavior, I would urge you to please try some less invasive methods first before you resort to such a drastic measure. Why risk potential side-effects and the trauma that can accompany any surgical procedure if there are clearly other, less invasive ways of dealing with this problem?
by Brad Knell (c) 2005 All Rights Reserved
Brad Knell is the webmaster of stopcatscratching.com stopcatscratching.com one of several sites designed to help people with pet problems.
December 29, 2006 No Comments
Aquarium Fish Buying Tips
It’s very important as part of your plan for having successful aquarium to take note of the type of inhabitants. One of the most important elements of you aquarium will naturaly be fish.
Never buy fish before finding out about its requirement first.
You really need to take your time to ask questions and be very observant when you are in the aquarium store. There are lots of aquarium stores with unknowledgeable owners, so you don’t base your decision on their advice alone… make sure you take a look at the fish yourself.
If you can make friends with some of the staff in the store they will possibly tell you more about the lifestyle of the fish you are intending to pick.
Below are some basic guidelines to consider when buying new fish.
- The following points all need to be considered:
- Is your fish tank at the right temperature?
- Are your water conditions correct?
- How big does it get? – It may be small now, but will your other fish be at risk when it grows?
- Is it a territorial – or will it be happier in a group?
Can you supply the right food for it?
Remember that the key to successful fishkeeping is happy, stress-free fish, so don’t be tempted into buying an incompatible species jut because you think it’s attractive – you’ll regret it.
Sometimes it can be difficult to be patient, particularly if the dealer has a species of fish that you really want. But it’s important not to rush things. Don’t try to add too many fish to your tank at once – and always check that the fish are healthy.
For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out
December 29, 2006 No Comments