Posts from — August 2006

When it comes to dog crates, they can be extremely useful in training your dog. Many dog owners use them for housebreaking. And at times, when they need to leave their dog alone for a while. So what exactly is crate training and why you should do it too?

What You Should Know About Crate Dog Training

Crate training is a well-known method of training a dog to be left alone, as well as to housebreak them, too. It is a fact that all dogs will not soil their bed if they can help it and so that is why it makes an excellent method of housebreaking a puppy.

Dog crates come in a number of different sizes, so it is vital to get one that is big enough to fit your dog. Even if your puppy is quite small, it would still be a good idea to buy a crate that will fit the dog until it becomes fully grown. This way you will save money as you will not have to go out and purchase another crate later on.

The good news is that crates are not only good to train puppies, but they are also great for an adult dog too. Older dogs enjoy going into their crates sometimes as it provides them with a safe haven to rest and have their own space.

You can also use the crate for basic obedience or whenever your dog is a little too much to handle, just place him in there for a little while. Now it is important not to shut him away for hours on end. A crate should only be used when needed and should never be used to cage a dog in there for extended periods of time. This is especially true when house training puppies to not mess up the floor and home.

As mentioned earlier, dogs will never make a mess of their bed unless they have to. So it is important when you keep a puppy in the crate overnight, that you let it out frequently. Puppies cannot hold on all night and you may need to wake up every few hours to let them out of the crate.

As also mentioned earlier, a crate should only be used when needed and leaving a dog inside for too long may elevate their stress level. I highly recommend that you only use it for a few hours. But if the crate is large and roomy enough, it can be left overnight.

A dog crate is an excellent tool for separation of anxiety, as many dogs will ruin furniture and make a big mess when left alone. As you can see, a crate has many uses and can be an excellent piece of equipment to have for any dog or puppy owner. Tip: a plastic crate is highly recommended by most animal experts.

When deciding on buying a crate, treat it like a dog’s master bedroom and be sure that his crate is big enough, comfortable and sturdy. Trust me, you will yield greater results with your dog loving you for it!

Jeremy C.W is an expert author on dogs and puppies. Visit dognpuppies.com for more articles, dognpuppies.com dog videos and useful resources on dognpuppies.com/crate-dog-training/index.html dog crate training.

The Basset Hounds we all know and love today have bloodlines that descend from England in the middle-to-late 19th century. However, the Basset breed actually got its start (best as anyone who has delved into it can ascertain) much earlier, and in France, of all places. This was in the 16th century. Now, I know what you’re thinking… how can such a magnificent and flawless dog breed as the glorious Basset Hound have had its origins in France? I have to confess that it does makes things a bit more complicated for me emotionally, since I detest that snooty, has-been nation (kidding, sort of), BUT…

My love for Bassets wins out every time!

The AKC officially deemed Bassets ‘worthy’ in 1885 by recognizing them. I guess they didn’t realize that Basset Hounds are all BORN perfect and, thus, are beyond such trifles as being “recognized” by the almighty AKC (oooh!). But I’ve learned to forgive such human errors.

You may be wondering why French folks would concoct such a funny-looking dog breed. The answer is pretty boring, actually (as are most things French…ok, enough!). Nobles of that time liked to hunt. A lot. But the French countryside featured a lot of dense brush and thickets. The hunters’ prey (deer, rabbits, etc.) routinely escaped into nearby cover. Hunters didn’t like being stymied by mere animals.

Enter Monsieur Basset Hound (say it like this: Misssssssure Bass-ay Ound). Developing a dog breed that could smell and hear just about anything from one side of the nation to the other, and who would fearlessly bound into the thickest of brush, became essential. Being low to the ground made them more efficient hunting machines.

So, now you know why Bassets are funny looking. But isn’t the way they look the very reason why you find them adorable and huggable? *NOTE: If you do NOT find them both adorable and huggable, stop reading now. I mean it. Go away.

Basset Hound Characteristics

The name “Basset” is a play on the French word for ‘low’ – bas. The English, clever devils that they are, combined that word with the English word for how something is positioned – ‘set.’ Bas-set. Low set Hounds. Cool, huh?

Basset Hounds typically come in combinations of the following colors: brown, black, white, and red. So-called ‘tri-colors’ are the most common nowadays (brown, black, and white).

Quick! What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you visualize a Basset Hound? The long ears, of course! Do you know why they were bred to possess such ridiculously long ears? I do. OK, I’ll let you in on it. It was NOT primarily to improve their hearing (the common myth). It was all about picking up the prey’s scent.

Imagine if you walked with your head a foot or so off the ground all the time. Now imagine having ears that dang near dragged the ground. Ears flopping back and forth with every step. Besides never getting any dates, you’d also catch a whole lot more of every scent in the vicinity with those tremendous lobes.

For a hunting dog, a finely tuned ability to pick up faint scents equals success for the master. And now you know why Bassets have those trademark ears. You must promise to use this information only for good…never for evil.

The tale continues…

Basset Hound Temperament

When you picture a Basset Hound’s daily activities, what do you see? Most people imagine a lazy, sprawling, sleeping and eating machine. And that’s pretty much right on target for most Bassets. Every now and then, some mutant Basset will spring forth who actually becomes delusional and thinks he’s a Jack Russell Terrier, all wired up and full of pep. But those types are few and very far between, thankfully.

In terms of getting along and playing well with others, Basset Hounds are among the best. It goes back to their breeding, again. They are pack animals by nature, so docility among the pack was an especially advantageous and much sought after characteristic. Yes, individuals will vary, but you have a much better than 50-50 chance at raising a low-key, unassuming pet with this breed. And this includes how he gets along with other pet dogs. Males and females share this trait.

There is a vicious rumor floating around about Bassets being hard to train because they’re stubborn and strong-willed. Slanderous! OK, actually, that’s true. But nobody’s perfect, and I bet you weren’t exactly the model child! So stop being so critical, miss or mister high-and-mighty.

Among Basset trainers, you hear this sentence a whole lot: “Bassets are easy to train, as long as you’re trying to get them to do what they wanted to do in the first place.” That’s as close to a truism as you’ll find in the dog universe. If you adopt a Basset with the intention of making an obedient little trooper out of him, prepare yourself for years of frustration. Be happy that he’s loyal and allows you to feed him and give him lots of toys. Enough said.

Some Basset Tips

First, you have to keep Basset Hounds on a diet pretty much from the time they’re grown until they pass away. This is much easier said than done, as any Basset owner will attest. They have faces that just beg to be given treats for any action, including waking up, looking around, yawning, and the other major accomplishments of a typical Basset’s day. Resist that urge!

Basset Hounds are naturally heavy, and it’s very easy to make it worse if you don’t stick to a pretty strict dietary regimen. Obesity in dogs leads to canine diabetes at an alarming rate (just like humans). This breed is particularly susceptible, so be careful. A daily walk is a terrific idea as well.

Staying with the health rant for another minute – clean your Basset’s ears often! Their huge size makes them ideal breeding grounds for all kinds of nasty little critters on the insides; and the outsides tend to collect dirt, food from bowls, and water (which turns the dirt and food remnants to a mushy mess). Not exactly hygienic.

Finally, never ever, under any circumstances, let a Basset Hound run around loose outside without a fence that is well maintained. They’re specialized hunters – bred to find their way into (and out of) tiny openings. And they’re intelligent. That’s a potentially lethal combination for your pet, especially if you live near roadways. A Basset believes he has the right to be in the middle of the road if the scent led him there. Vehicles be damned! No need to endure that kind of tragedy. Keep your Basset INSIDE (or at least behind a fence with no possibility of escape).

© John Schwartz puppies-dogs-supplies.com (All rights reserved – article may be reprinted freely, providing the author section is included and all links are intact and clickable.)

About The Author: John Schwartz is a freelance writer and dog lover. He has written many published articles on subjects that include shopping for safe puppies-dogs-supplies.com/dog_toys.html dog toys and supplies, improving pet health, and good dog training practices. Visit his website at puppies-dogs-supplies.com puppies-dogs-supplies.com for general dog information, some funny stories, and lots of dog ownership tips.

The Ragdoll breed of cat was developed by a breeder in California, Ann Baker, in the 1960s. She bred a white female Persian that carried Siamese markings to a male Birman. She introduced those offspring to a female Burmese, resulting in today’s Ragdoll, a medium sized breed with oval blue eyes and a medium length coat with Siamese markings. Mature Ragdolls (considered adult around age three), are heavier than other breeds; males will weigh anywhere from twelve to twenty pounds and females ten to fifteen pounds. They will live an average of twelve to twenty years. Their fur does not tend to mat or shed excessively, all though regular grooming is a must (something this breed does not mind).

A Ragdoll’s coat will start all white at birth then develop into four colors: seal, which has dark seal brown points with a light tan body; chocolate, which has milk chocolate points with an ivory body; blue, which has dark gray points with a pale gray body; and, lilac, which has pinkish gray points with a frosty white body. In addition to these colors, Ragdolls have three patterns: colorpoint, which has dark points (ears, tail, face, and feet) with a body of a lighter shade and no white markings; mitted, which has dark points and lighter body, but also has white ‘mitts’ on the front paws, white ‘boots’ on the back legs and feet, a white chin, a white strip on the stomach, and a white ruff; and, bi-color, which has the dark points (ears and tail), but the mask is interrupted by a ‘V’ running between the eyes and expanding into the muzzle.

Ragdolls make good family pets for several reasons. They like their human company and try to be ‘considerate’ of their family. Ragdolls take care not to scratch children and are gentle around them, and will follow their family around the house to be in their company. They are not noisy and talkative, and tend to keep their purring at a low volume.

Ragdolls are also intelligent cats and can be trained easily when given rewards. They are described as docile and laid back almost to a fault. Because of this temperament, Ragdolls are less likely to defend themselves in dangerous situations. For this reason, Ragdolls should be kept indoors at all times and away from more dominant animals (whether cat or another family pet). This is a healthy breed of cat and Ragdolls do not have any unusual medical concerns.

There is a website that has great information on Ragdoll and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:

dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2007

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter, or on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25 years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970’s-80’s.

Unknown Creatures

unknown-creatures.com unknown-creatures.com

If you own a pet, you know how frustrating it can be when they get sick and nothing seems to get them better. Visits to the vet, drugs, pills, shampoos … it seems as though they will be sick forever.

The problem usually lies in their food. Nutrition, or lack thereof, is the number one factor that determines a pet’s health. Store bought commercial pet food lacks almost all the nutrients that pets need. To make matters worse, they are loaded with toxic chemicals, synthetic preservatives, and discarded animal parts that you would never knowingly give your beloved pet.

Even ‘premium’ store bought pet foods lack the proper nutrition that your pet requires. They also usually contain most of the same dangerous chemicals that the cheaper brands do. It’s all about slick marketing and advertising. Unfortunately, once again, it’s all about the money.

However, there is hope. There are a handful of companies that really do care about your precious pup or fuzzy feline. They manufacture top quality, human grade, natural and organic pet foods that have everything your little friend needs, and nothing they don’t. The best part is that they usually don’t cost much more than the store brands, sometimes even less. Because they are so nutrient dense, you normally will feed your pet less because they won’t need as much in their bowl. This makes every bag last longer and will actually save you money.

Even the best pet foods usually lack a few vitamins, minerals, or important nutrients. This is where nutritional supplements come in. There is a very wide range of products available and you need to know exactly what you are buying. Consulting a pet nutritionist or holistic veterinarian is usually a good idea if you plan on treating your pet without drugs. There are specific alternative remedies for every condition or ailment out there. Most are very effective.

Do a little research on the Internet for organic or natural pet food, nutritional supplements, holistic or homeopathic pet remedies, etc. You will see thousands of resources listed, but the top 4 or 5 will usually be reputable companies that can be trusted. The more you read, the more you will learn and can then make informed decisions about the health and nutrition of your pet.

Learn more about healthy-pet-supplies.com pet health
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that can restore and maintain your pet’s health.

We all love our cats and many of us would prefer them in their natural body form i.e. not subject them to any surgery or general anesthesia. But there is one procedure for which I do recommend surgical intervention…sterilization of cats.

We all know by now the outcome of allowing uncontrolled breeding of cats (ferals…remember!). But apart from that sterilization of cats has several important benefits. And unless you are a serious breeder, I do suggest you consider the following:

Male cat – When your tom cat reaches puberty at nearly six months of age, he will start yearning for female cats, and it’s not his fault – it’s only natural. He will meow at night, spray foul smelling urine all over the house aside from his litter box, and totally ignore all your attempts to control him, in short there will be a total change in his personality and it will continue…until you let him out! Once outside your tommy boy will be no match for the ferals who have grown on their own and are much better hunters and fighters than your pet who never learned to fend for himself under your loving care. So when he’s gonna eye female cats and try and establish his territory, he’ll end up inevitably in a fight with another feral male cat – and return to you with a scratched face and scarred ego! You’ll worry about him but there’s not much you can do – he will go outside again – and this time may not return (as your domesticated pet he didn’t even learn how to cross a street or avoid humans!) And you’ll be left with heart break, uncomprehending…when all of this could be avoided by a simple procedure…neutering. The surgery is one of the simplest in all of veterinary medicine. Carried out under general anesthesia your pet will be discharged the same day and will have no significant personality changes!

Female Cat – Here you have a lovely queen who adores you, rolls on your feet and shows affection for the whole family – until she reaches puberty (again at approximately six months). Now your sleep every night is disturbed by her constant yowling! She desperately wants to get out and meet a tom cat – and she can’t help it…she’s in heat. You try to soothe her but to no avail. Finally you let her out. She returns after a few days, relatively unharmed. However, she continues to venture outside periodically, much to your concern, where she is exposed to unhygienic conditions and diseases. A few months later she bears a litter of four kittens. Now you have a problem – what to do these with these new cats. This will continue every few months and your house will become crowded with cats, you will be left wondering if it’s a good idea to keep pets? Again all of this could be avoided by a similar surgery…spaying (ovariohysterectomy). Your cat will no longer come in heat and will lead a happy, healthy life!

Even if the above does not motivate you enough, remember this, sterilization also reduces the risk of cancer in cats (testicular in males, ovarian in females)! What’s the right age for neutering? I’d say at puberty…around six months! No use letting the cat have one litter since they may only learn a behavioral trait that you don’t want!

The author is a blogger about ailurophiles.blogspot.com cats and an expert on ailurophiles.blogspot.com/2007/05/neuterspay.html sterilization of cats.

Learn more about cats by visiting: ailurophiles.blogspot.com ailurophiles.blogspot.com

When searching for a great dog training book, look for those dog authors who use humane training methods and have similar goals as yourself. Choose a book that uses training that you feel comfortable with. It does not make sense to get a book that suggests using shock collars if you’d never put one on your pet. Think about how your dog relates to the authors training methods. If your dog is an older pet, then don’t buy a book meant for training misbehaving puppies. Look for a book that coincides with your dog, your beliefs and the results that you’re looking for.

If you’re looking for a dog training book to help you with your new puppy, then find a book that offers obedience training and early behavior problem solving. Are the techniques used in the book easy enough to carry out? Do you have access to any tools needed, such as a choke collar? Remember, just because the cover of the book shows a puppy that is as cute as your own, doesn’t mean the techniques in the book work. Look for good reviews on the book and pet owners who say the book gives good and useful information.

Some dog training books come with videos which can be very helpful. If you are a visual person, a video or books with clear illustrations will be beneficial. If you still aren’t sure which dog training books are best, ask friends, family and even your veterinarian for recommendations. Most dog owners will tell you about books that have practical ideas that work. Don’t count on just one book to tell you everything about training. You may need to purchase a book on obedience and another on potty training. Most authors of dog training books own pets themselves and will write about the way their own dog was trained. This may or may not work for your dog, so be open to new suggestions and look through a few books before deciding on one particular way of training.

For More Information on

Children and animals make great companions. Regardless of the type of pet that you own there are always certain precautions to take. If you are considering having a bird as a pet, keep the following things in mind.

The biggest challenge when combining birds and young children is how they treat the animals. If you had a bird while your child was growing up, then they should have learned the proper technique to handle and feed these wonderful creatures. However, if you bought a bird while your child was still young, they may have several things to learn.

The bottom line is that the majority of the tasks associated with owning a bird will fall on the parent and not on the children. It will be the parents’ responsibility to make sure that the few chores that the child can do are done accordingly. This will include things like cleaning the birdcage or dispensing food.

As is often the case, young children do not understand how to handle a bird and are not aware of how fragile these amazing creatures can be. A bird is a very soft creature and is not a tough toy like your child may be use to playing with. If your child is overly aggressive with other animals, you probably do not want a bird at this point as the chances of injuring the bird or making them erratic is very good.

There are often many species of birds that are suitable for a child. But some species prefer more quiet and less energy driven areas. If you bring a bird home, which is not suitable for this habitat, it could be aggressive, noisy, and even experience many health problems. .

Canaries, budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels are perfect pets for an older child. There are also many types of parakeets and some small conures that would also be good choices. Typically these creatures are very social, and should be kept in an area of the home that is usually attended by people as well. These creatures should not be kept in the kitchen however, as they can be very messy. Also a child’s bedroom is not a good place for these wonderful creatures, unless your child spends most of their time there. However, having a second birdcage in the bedroom is a good idea.

If you have never had a bird before, there are many things to consider. For more articles and information on

As the author of several pet loss books, I frequently receive letters and e-mail from people thanking me for my work. Along with their kind and generous words, people often give me kudos that I do not deserve. Somehow people feel the need to thank me for helping animals. The truth is I don’t do as much for our animal friends as people imagine. I do help support scores of shelters by providing books for their fundraisers, making financial donations and helping out in any other way that I am asked to, but my work, my goal is to help the people that help animals.

Dogs and cats do not read my books. People do; and many of them have a sad story to share. In the past decade I have received no less than 5,000 such stories. It is heart-wrenching to read of their losses and the grief they feel. I am so thankful to be able to offer soothing words and advice and to correspond with them for as long as they feel they need my assistance.

They are not the only ones to benefit from our communication however. I have acquired a wealth of knowledge from them; in particular on the dangers that face our pets and how to avoid exposing them to those dangers. Most of what I have learned is common sense, but it would surprise you to know how many people are born without that commodity. I won’t go into the sad details, but generally speaking, many people lose their beloved best friends through circumstances that just did not have to be. From swimming pools to open gates, to exposure to the elements, most “accidents”, and therefore grief, can be avoided.

I have been affectionately labeled a “worry wart” by those who know me simply because I try to think ahead and imagine what dangers there might be for my pets when I am away from them. Admittedly, I do sometimes go a little overboard. For instance, when we are traveling and cannot take our pets with us, we have someone stay with them in our home rather than boarding them at a kennel. It is more expensive, but it comforts me to know that they are in a safe environment that I created for them.

If that is not bad enough, I hand the person staying in our home a small book of rules and information about the animals. I know that no one reads them, but it eases my concern to know the information is available to them should they need it. To my shame, there is still more to my confession. I also call my pet’s babysitter several times each day to ensure my buddies are okay.

I suppose the label of worry wart fits, so I will wear it proudly. I would rather look silly erring on the side of safety than to bury my head in my hands in grief for having overlooked a potential danger

“Oversight” is the word I want to emphasize. It is the one common denominator that I find present in each sad story that is shared with me. When tragedy comes the catalyst is usually someone not perceiving that a danger existed. I am not blaming anyone. Indeed, there is no blame to assign. I am merely pointing out that sometimes people are not aware that certain conditions or situations might present a danger to their pets.

Let me use myself as an example. I have three dogs, all rescued from shelters. Two of them sometimes have “discussions” because the smaller of the two is dominant and pushes the larger one (twice her size) around. I was aware that there was some occasional squaring off, but these always amounted to nothing more than grumbling at each other with a low growl and icy stare. They usually got along splendidly, and on those rare occasions where they had a small confrontation over a rawhide or toy, it usually was settled by the dominant one having her way.

Returning home one day from shopping, we were greeted by a frantic neighbor who told us that these two dogs had gotten into a real scrap while we were gone. Fortunately, we had made a way for the dogs to go outside into the fenced yard whenever nature calls and the incident took place in the yard. Had it happened in the house, it is doubtful my neighbor would have been aware of it and the story might have ended tragically different than it did.

He told us that he immediately ran over to the fence and yelled for them to stop, but they would not listen. He ultimately had to jump the fence and separate them because he was sure that the larger dog was going to kill the smaller one if they remained together. My initial thought was that he was exaggerating a bit, but when I saw the gashes and cuts on the bloodied smaller dog, I knew there was a real problem.

As a consequence of that episode, our home is now divided in our absence, as is the yard. The two problem “children” have separate doors that they can use to access and exit the yard. They can still be together, but they are divided by a fence. That doesn’t stop the neighbor’s dog from jumping over into either side of the yard (which we are still working on), but it keeps my two rascals from mixing it up.

My point is that while we need to guard against dangers, there is a limit to what we can anticipate and guard against. Sometimes even worry warts miss things. Still, when we accept the responsibility of caring for an animal, we need to be vigilant and proactive in their care and safety. There are just so many potential dangers. With a little thought and perhaps a little study on the internet, we can gain critical knowledge that we can easily apply to our pet’s environment to ensure their safety.

For instance, how many of us give tennis balls to our dogs? They are fine for smaller dogs, but pose a real choke hazard to larger dogs. Tennis balls are a disaster waiting to happen, one that has happened far too many times. Swimming pools are another problem. Fortunately for me, my dogs detest the water and won’t go near it. Most dogs enjoy the water, however, and an exposed swimming pool is an open invitation to fun.

While you are at home and they are swimming with you, there is little danger. When you are gone however, if they purposely or accidentally enter the pool, they often cannot find their way out, if indeed there is one. You may not realize that when you are with them, YOU are their way out of the pool. When you are gone, the whole dynamic changes.

I have had so many readers share their pool tragedies with me, that I felt compelled to find a solution and make it available to pet owners on my website. I found a company who offers a flotation device that allows dogs of any size to exit pools without assistance. I feel that this is such an important product that I advertise it on my website without charge. I do not make any profit from sales of this product. The only benefit to me is the satisfaction of knowing that another tragedy will be avoided when someone purchases it and uses it.

There are so many dangers, too many to mention here. So please do some research and educate yourself. It is important that we be vigilant. Those trusting faces depend upon us to look out for them. If there is a way for our cats and dogs (and other animals) to get themselves into trouble, they will find it. We need to find it first and eliminate it as a threat.

Be a worry wart. It will pay big dividends.

The author is a retired Coast Guard Officer with over 32 years of service. He is also a Baptist Preacher and Bible Teacher. He helps those grieving the loss of a pet to understand the Biblical evidence that proves they live on. His most popular book, “Cold Noses at the Pearly Gates” delivers hope and comfort to the reader in a very gentle, yet convincing way. Visit at coldnosesbook.com coldnosesbook.com for more information or write to

* Lock things up that could cause harm

* Keep the washer/dryer door closed at all times

* Honk the car horn before starting it up

* Use fire carefully

* Keep all upstairs windows closed or screened

* Store string away tidily

* Keep floors free of small things

* Be constantly aware of what your cat is doing

Curiosity gets most cats in trouble at some point in their lives. As your cat’s caregiver, keeping her safe sometimes seems like a “mission impossible.” With a little foresight and action, however, you can create a “home, safe home.”

When you’re trying to provide the best home possible for your cat, it pays to think like her. Put on some old clothes and get down on hands and knees and take a look around. Is that shiny crystal vase on the shelf a tempting target? Remember that cats will jump onto shelves and tables.

That dangling drapery cord would be fun to leap and grab. What’s in this big pot? In case you need help identifying what might catch a cat’s eye, here’s a list of common household items that are often the cause of cat injuries:

* Roach and ant traps

* electric and phone cords

* cigarettes in ashtrays

* open doors and windows

* rubber bands

* housecleaning chemicals

* lit candles

* Christmas trees

* ornaments

* paperclips

* rocking chairs

* uncovered toilets

* trash cans

* human medications

* chocolate

* anti-freeze

* unattended boiling pots

* electric stove burners

* plastic bags.

Cats find plants irresistible as playthings. They love to pounce on them and shred them with both their claws and teeth. Although they are carnivores -meat eaters-they sometimes eat plant material. For these reasons, it’s important to make sure the plants in and around your home won’t pose a health risk. The following are some common house and landscape plants that are toxic to cats:

* Philodendron English ivy

* caladium dieffenbachia “elephant ear”

* poinsettia

* mistletoe

* azaleas

* holly

* berries

* boxwood

* wisteria

* hydrangea

* oleander

* chinaberry tree

If you live in an area prone to natural disasters, keep an emergency pet supply kit with your own. Include a week’s worth of food as well as any medication your cat takes on a regular basis. A photo of your pet is also good to keep with your emergency supplies, in case you are separated from your cat during the event, you’ll have a way to get the word out to locate her.

A collar with an identification tag is one of those things that you might never need, but will wish you had if you need it and don’t. Even if your cat is strictly and indoor pet, the unexpected could happen. A door or window is left ajar, or a natural disaster creates an opening in your home through which your frightened feline escapes.

Your cat’s identity tag should include the following information

* Pet’s name

* Owner’s name and address

* Telephone numbers (day and evening)

* Medical problem requiring medication

* Veterinarian’s name and number

* Current Rabies vaccination information

* Reward offer should pet become lost

Many people have their cats micro-chipped for identification. A small silicone chip containing the owner’s contact information is painlessly inserted under the cat’s skin. Most animal shelters automatically scan lost pets to read the owner contact information. However, if your cat is found by an average citizen an identification tag will speed up your reunion.

Pet Medication Supplies pet-medication-supplies.net pet-medication-supplies.net can help you get the best possible supplies for your pet. Advantix, Arthramine, Cosequin, Frontline, Heartgard – find the best deals in pet-medication-supplies.net pet medication for flea and tick control, arthritis and lyme disease. Upto 50% discount everyday on brand names.

Cats need to scratch because scratching is a natural part of cats’ instinctive grooming habits. Unfortunately, scratching can also be annoying for cat owners because cats often damage furniture, curtains or other property. Additionally, many cat owners worry that their cat’s claws may carry germs – and it is true that a cat’s claws can be a great medium for bacteria and viruses.

Some people address these issues by declawing their cats, which is the removal of the cats’ claws. However, most people who elect to declaw do not realize the seriousness of the procedure: Cats’ claws are directly attached to muscle, so declawing can be compared to the amputation of the half of the cat’s toes.

Cat’s claws are an essential part of the animal’s anatomy:

- Claws help the cat walk, run, and spring

- Claws are cats’ main protection when they feel threatened

- Removing its claws is very tough on a cat, and it may find it hard to resume its normal activities after being declawed

- Declawing renders cats defenseless in the face of attacks

- Declawing is very painful

- Declawed cats may develop infection and bleeding problems.

So, before you decide to declaw your cat, think about it very carefully and think about alternatives:

- Scratching may be resolved through scratching posts

- Your cat’s claws can be made less dangerous with plastic covering

- You can also enroll your cat in a cat training school, especially if your cat is young enough.

Declawing is very extreme measure. It will hurt your cat more than you can imagine.

First published at guide2pets.com/p1_articles_cats_declawing.php guide2pets.com/p1_articles_cats_declawing.php

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