Posts from — February 2006

There are hundreds of online pet shops and aquarium dealers all waiting to sell you their fish tanks they have for sale. With so many available outlets nowadays it is not difficult to find a good bargain. While you are searching for your fish tank for sale you will find many other pets available for sale too.

Online Resources for Finding a Fish Tank for Sale

You can find your choice of fish tank for sale at an online general pet shop or if you are looking for a specific style a specialist aquarium shop may suit your need best.. Aquariums are available for sale in a variety of shapes and sizes and also come in different materials. The price is dependant on these two factors; what size you want and in what material you wish it to be? Glass is more expensive than the cheaper acrylic tanks. The majority of online stores accept all forms of payments and it is very secure to pay online nowadays so when you find your fish tank for sale, paying for it should not be a problem.

Many online dealers specialize in fish products and supplies and can provide your choice of fish tank for sale. This enables you to also buy everything you will need for tour new aquarium such as gravel, pumps and filters etc. They take orders from customers online, by fax, phone, or by regular mail. Once you have paid they will deliver you fish tank within a few days.

In case you are looking for a wall fish tank for sale, bizarreaquariums.com is a good place to look. A standard wall aquarium will cost from $300 to about $500, including shipping. Based in Michigan, the site ships the products in forty-eight hours. For UK residents, uk.freads.net is a good place to choose among online-listed fish tanks for sale. Here many fish tanks in good condition are sold for prices ranging from under £100 to £500. By registering for free, you can also place your own ad of fish tank for sale, if you need to.

By shopping online for your fish tank you will be easily be able to compare prices. Most places offer guarantees and refunds if when it arrives it is not what you were looking for, you can return it for an exchange or refund.

fishtankfun.com fishtankfun.com is an informative site relating to fish tanks, fish, aquariums, fish tank stands, filters, lights and all products related to owning fish.

Quarter cracks are vertical cracks in the hairline or coronary band of the horses hoof. They can be large or small, they can bleed and they can make a horse lame. Since the crack is sometimes an open sore its best treated in some way. Depending on the causes of the cracks they don’t all heal by themselves unless something specific is done.

The problem with dealing with quarter cracks is the movement and stresses put on the foot that spread the crack and prevent it from mending. If the horse becomes lame the problem usually can’t be ignored.

There are several types of fixes requiring a bit of skill and expertise in order to achieve a mend and recovery. There are also several reasons that quarter cracks occur as well – becoming aware of the reasons can go along way toward prevention.

Quarter cracks can be caused by a thin hoof wall (a genetic disposition) as well as low under slung heels combined with too long of toe. Uneven balances all contribute to the possibilities. When the heels of the horse are too low and the toe too long the downward pressure from the weight of the horse on the hoof is misplaced and the foot gets stressed in a certain point – the crack is the result. Obviously a horse involved in hard work and stressing the feet can be susceptible.

Shoeing the horse correctly is one of the first places to start for prevention.

The fixes are where things can get tricky – actually correct shoeing can be tricky as well but quarter crack lacing and repair is usually not an easy task. Probably the simplest method of repair is by just cutting the hoof wall directly under the crack where the hoof touches the shoe and creating a gap between the shoe and hoof there. By creating the gap the hoof at the area of the quarter crack no longer takes a pounding which keeps the crack open – in essence the area “Floats” giving the crack a chance to mend. This method works pretty well.

Another method is cutting a small piece of sheet metal and screwing it into the hoof wall at the location of the crack – the idea is to squeeze the crack together and hold it that way with the plate steel. I personally have used this method with mixed results.

A very interesting method of repair is to burn some slots into the hoof in the location of the crack one on each side of the crack – a nail (horseshoe nail) is driven through from one side to the other (in one slot out the other) and then the nail is pinched together thereby closing up the crack giving it a chance to mend. All in all quarter cracks can be a pain and become a chronic problem.

The first place to look for improvement and prevention is with the horse shoeing – making sure the shoeing is correct is paramount. And if your horse is popping quarter cracks there’s a great chance that your horse is susceptible to risk of other lameness’s as well.

When you want your horseshoeing to be the best go to a proven method. You should know I personally (as a farrier myself) have a 16 year 100% track record “Not One Single Lame Horse”. I know you care for your horse and all horses, then just run over before it’s too late and click the website link below in the Author Bio. This method is available. This method is not taught in textbooks or schools – I know I attended the schools and used the industry textbooks. So go ahead just click the link.

Thank you – happy riding and remember to Care4Horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed

Author Bio: John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 100% track record just go to Care4Horses.com Care4Horses.com and leave contact information.

A family, including three dogs and a cat live happily in a good house with extensive gardens; a great area for the animals to roam and play. By this stage, the kids have grown up, moved away and started their own lives. Mom and Dad are still there, looking after the animals and the gardens. However, old age takes its toll on the father and he passes away. Not wanting their mother to live in the large empty house alone, one of the daughters asks Mom to move in. This she does on the condition that the dogs come with her.

A buddy of mine was asked to house-sit pending the sale of the house. While there, he found that the cat was still living in the gardens. It turns out that the owners had decided not to take the cat with them. The cat’s health wasn’t good and, besides, he was used to living in a big garden and probably wouldn’t have liked to move anyway. At least, that was their excuse.

The story I heard later was that the cat was never theirs but had arrived on their doorstep one day and they decided to feed it. Naturally, it returned day after day. To my mind, that’s taking responsibility for the cat. If you don’t want that kind of responsibility, then don’t feed an animal. It will move on until it finds someone who will care for it or feed it. But that’s just me.

I popped out to see my buddy on a couple of occasions and to take a look around the house and gardens. The cat was there and looked in a sorry state. His breath stank to high heaven and he was suffering from cat flu. To be honest, I didn’t want the cat near me as I didn’t want to bring any infection beck home to my own two cats.

There things rested for a few months until a couple of things arose that prevented my buddy from house-sitting. He asked me to fill in for a couple of weeks until he could resume his duties. I asked him if the cat was still there and if he was feeding it. He told me that, yes, the cat was still there and, yes, he was feeding it. The original house owners were providing the food but still weren’t interested in taking the cat with them.

So I arrived out at the house one dingy, rainy night and, fumbling in the dark for the gate keys, heard a faint meowing from behind the wooden gate. When I opened it, I was greeted by the cat. I could just make out his shape in the faint light. The entrance to the house lies through a dilapidated conservatory where the cat lives – there’s a cat-sized hole in the brickwork to allow him to come and go, so someone originally went to the trouble of making this alteration for a cat nobody seemed to want!

The first thing I noticed about the cat was a half serious/half evil visage. This did not look like a happy cat. However, he was friendly and sidled up against my legs, purring all the while. I put out some food for him which he gobbled up, so his appetite was fine. I left the door to the house ajar while I turned on the light and got my bearings. I walked through to the kitchen and, as I turned to leave, tripped over the cat who’d silently followed me in. In the light, I got a better view of his face. He opened his mouth and meowed, but no sound came out. I soon realised he rarely vocalised. He was bleary-eyed and furrowed of brow, or so it seemed and was slightly unsteady on his feet. His eyes were weeping and his nose was wet. A cut, just below his right lip, had turned septic. His breath could kill at five paces. Stroking the cat, I found his hair was dry and matted in places, so I knew he wasn’t grooming properly.

When I went to the fridge, he perked up and lapped up a saucer of milk I gave him. Once he’d finished, he followed me into the TV room and sat watching while I got settled. As soon as I sat down, he jumped onto my lap, lay down and started purring. Then he stood up and, as best as I can describe it, hugged me.

This kind of behaviour persisted over the next couple of days. There was no doubt that this was a cat that was not only used to people but was very affectionate with them. This wasn’t a cat that just lived outdoors and got fed. This was a cat that had received a lot of love and attention. Again, I wondered how someone could just walk away and leave their pet.

Despite obviously enjoying my company, the cat always looked miserable, more so when sitting or lying alone. His eyes ran persistently, he sneezed frequently and dribbled from the area above the septic cut.

I guess I bonded with the animal because I couldn’t stand to see such a friendly soul in such misery. So I took him to my vet. I’ve never seen a cat pant before but the stress of the journey was more than he was used to.

The Diagnosis

The cat settled down once I arrived at the vet. The motion of the car and/or the engine noise seems to have been what made him uneasy. For their records, the clinic required a name for him. Since I’d never known his real name, I chose the rather unimaginative name of ‘Ginger’. Hey, it wasn’t like I’d had a lot of time to think about it!

He was reluctantly pulled from the cat box but curiosity got the better of him and he started to inspect the new surroundings. Meanwhile, the vet began the examination. This was the result:

6 rotten teeth – this accounted for the bad breath. The vet noticed that Ginger’s face was slightly asymmetrical. Apparently, the infection from the rotting teeth had travelled up through his face and probably infected his right cheek bone. The infection had also backed up into the sinuses and had caused a partial blockage of his tear ducts which prevented his eyes from draining properly and led to the bleary-eyed look.
the remnants of cat flu – apparently the virus can stay in the system for a while causing persistent weeping from the eyes and/or nose. In his weakened state from the infected teeth, he might not have been able to fight off the infection completely.
a septic cut below his lower lip – again, this probably didn’t clear up due to the other infections he was fighting off.
Ear infections
Fleas
A skin allergy
A heart murmur – while a murmur was detected, his heart is strong and no other problems were detected
The possibility of an immune deficiency disease which might have contributed to his inability to get well.

Why Help Was Needed

Antibiotics were prescribed to cure the infections and a flea treatment was given to kill off the fleas. The big problem was the teeth. Ginger needed 6 extractions and follow-up care. He also needed to be tested for immune deficiency diseases and feline leukaemia. And a new home needed to be found for him.

I covered the cost of the examination and antibiotics but couldn’t cover the cost of the dental treatment and tests. His original owners weren’t interested in helping out.

The vet wasn’t happy that his owners had let him get into his deteriorated state. He told me that Ginger was very uncomfortable (not surprising with six simultaneous toothaches) and recommended two courses of action:

find someone who would take long-term responsibility for Ginger; have him tested for immune deficiency disease and feline leukaemia and if he was clear, have the six teeth extracted. If he had either of the two diseases, Ginger could not go to a home where cats already lived as he’d pass the disease on to them. He could have gone to a cat-free home though
put the cat to sleep and end his misery.

I didn’t like option two and, if it was to be an option, it was going to be the one of last resort. This was a cat who’d had a miserable year and, despite the pain and suffering he’d endured and was still enduring, remained friendly and unaggressive. This gentle soul needed to have the opportunity to survive and have an enjoyable few years of life.

The Request

I asked visitors to my website to help me help Ginger survive with donations (through PayPal) to cover the medical bills. Finding a new home for him was the least of the problems and, I must admit, I was taken aback by the generosity shown…

To be continued

Gary Nugent, a software engineer by profession, has been a life-long animal lover, especially of cats and is the webmaster of cat-oholics.com cat-oholics.com – a site that helps you make the best choices to keep your cat healthy, happy and long-lived. Information about cats in general, health issues that can affect them, some of their weird and wonderful behavior patterns, their history, and how to choose various products, supplies and toys for your feline furball. And, not to forget about you…there are a few things on the site to keep cat owners amused as well.

Knowing dog first aid skills are very important, just as with humans and knowing what to do in the event of an emergency may mean the difference between life and death for your dog. Dog emergencies or any other extreme medical situations require that you get your dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Of course, not every possible ailment will need professional treatment but better safe than sorry. If your dog ever receives any kind of injury it is always best that you be aware of what to do in advance (depending on what type of injury the dog has received). Different kinds of injuries require different kinds of treatments. Many kinds of injuries may require immediate medical assistance. It is a very good idea to know how to prevent any dog emergencies, treat various minor injuries with first aid and just when you need to seek immediate veterinary assistance and care.

In case an emergency ever were to happen it is easy to prepare for it in advance by creating your own dog first aid kit. It is very easy to create. Good ideas for containers could be a lunch box, a tackle box or some other shoe box sized plastic container. Water-proof and strong enough to withstand mild pressure is the best idea.

It would be a great idea to label the first aid kit on all sides with something such as “Dog First Aid Kit”. It’s also a very good idea to list a description of your dog(s) including it’s name, color, weight, any health issues, distinguishing characteristics with a recent photo labeled with the name of every pet that you own.

An index card with the numbers of your local veterinarian, poison control, and other canine emergency numbers for your dog (emergency vet, etc) is also a good thing to include in the dog first aid kit. Here is a list of several items you should put in your dog first aid kit with brief explanations as to what each item is for. Remember, your dog’s health may depend on it.

Dog First Aid Kit Basic Ingredients List:

Activated charcoal: for poisonings (1 gram per pound, mixed with water),

Antihistamine tablets: for insect stings and allergic reactions,

Betadine or Nolvasan: cleaning open wounds,

Blankets: several if possible, to help prevent against shock in the event of an accident or injury as well as a good way to transport an injured dog,

Blunt nosed scissors: to cut tape and clip. Keep these scissors with the kit.

Canine rectal thermometer: to take the dog or puppies temperature,

Cortisone ointment: Used as a topical anti-inflammatory,

Cotton balls and swabs: Used mainly to clean wounds,

Eyedropper or dosage syringe: to apply medications to your dog,

Eyewash: to irrigate the eyes of your dog,

First-aid cream: to sooth and protect wounds,

Gauze bandage: for wrapping wounds,

Gloves: both thin plastic to avoid contamination and thicker ones if you have a fear of being bitten,

Hand towels: to dry hands, for clean up, etc.,

Hydrogen peroxide (3%): has various uses, one of which is to induce vomiting,

Kaolin and pectin: to help diarrhea (1 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Magnifying glass: to help locate any tiny objects

Muzzle: even the best dog may bite when in extreme pain. If you don’t have one you can also make one from strips of soft long fabric, tube socks, etc.,

Nail clippers: best case scenario, have both human and canine nail clippers,

Non-stick adhesive tape: to help tape bandages in place,

Non-stinging antiseptic spray: to help clean wounds,

Pepto-Bismol , Maalox or Kaopectate: to help relieve minor stomach upsets,

Petroleum jelly: for use with the rectal thermometer, also an aid in constipation (1/2 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Saline solution: can be used for many things such as irrigating wounds,

Stretch bandages: for wound dressing,

Styptic pencil: to stop minor bleeding,

Syrup of Ipecac: used to induce vomiting (1 teaspoon per 20 pounds),

Tweezers or hemostat: use to pull our splinters or other small foreign objects,

Vegetable oil: for mild constipation (1 teaspoon per 5 pounds, mix it in with food)

If you can think of other items to add to your dog first aid kit, feel free to do so. This list is just a place to get you started in creating your own dog first aid kit.

Any of the following symptoms or injuries require IMMEDIATE medical action from your veterinarian. Contact your vet immediately if your dog or puppy has any of the following:

Been hit by a vehicle,

No pulse or heart beat,

Broken bones,

Puncture wounds to the abdomen or chest,

Spurting blood,

Bleeding from nose or mouth,

Bloated abdomen,

Repeated vomiting,

Pale gums,

Diarrhea for more than 18 hours,

Muscle tremors,

Problems with breathing or swallowing,

Refusal to eat for 48 hours,

Seizures or disorientation,

Unusual swellings (especially ones that are sudden, hard or fast growing)

In any emergency situation try and keep as calm as possible and to get your dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. If anything ever happens, call first to see if the office is open, and to let the vet know what has happened and that you and your dog are on your way.

If your veterinarians office is not open for whatever the reason, call your nearest emergency vet clinic. Always keep all emergency phone numbers, including those of your veterinarian and emergency veterinarian clinic, near your telephone.

Debbie Ray, owner of

Which is better, to choose between a pure bred puppy and a mixed breed puppy. Which is the best choice? There are lot of factors in this decision.

A pure bred puppy will cost more. A mixed breed puppy is often free or cheaper in cost then a pure bred. A pure bred puppy will often have a higher level of care associated with it. Unless purchased from a puppy mill, pure bred dogs are often pampered, wormed and have their early shots. Pure bred puppies may have congenital problems associated with inbreeding unless care was taken in the breeding. Buying a purebred with accredited credentials from the American Kennel Club or other such breed clubs helps keep track of several generations of parents. The American Kennel Club offers pure bred dog registrations for both puppies that you eventually want to breed and puppies that are not to be used for breeding. Generally, the breeder you purchase your puppy from will charge more for a puppy if you want to eventually breed and have the puppies registered. This makes the breeder more money and helps keep out competition for that breed of registered puppies in the future.

I have personal experience in both pure bred and mixed breed dogs. I have had 4 different mixed breed dogs and all were lovable, healthy and great pets. One of my dogs, Shadow, I have had for 14 years. She is a mix between a Rottweiler (her mother) and a Golden Retriever. She looks like a wide black lab. I was hoping that she would retain some of the characteristics of both breeds. I wanted a friendly dog since we have three children, but also a dog that guards us at night. Well, it turns out, that she is a black Golden Retriever. She is all sweetness. There is not a trace of watch dog in her. We had good friends show up recently, at night.
They let themselves into our house with their key and walked right past our lounging Shadow to greet us. Shadow never barked when they arrived and just considered this a non alarm. Our friends visit about once a month and I’m sure that she knows the sound of their car engine. But I would prefer a bit of dog warning. She is a wonderful dog and just to look at her would scare most people with bad intentions.

On the other hand, I have a pure bred white German Shepherd puppy about eight weeks old. She is already acting like a watch dog at this early age. This is a trait that I was looking for. It is obvious that this instinct to guard is hardwired into her. I needed a dog that is highly intelligent, protective of my family and a watch dog, and large enough to wrestle with my son and I. I know that I found what I was looking for. My point is this. If you want a better chance of choosing a puppy that will grow to a certain size and exhibit certain characteristics, your best choice is going to be a pure bred. All you need to do is decide what size of dog you desire and choose the characteristics that you are looking for and then research the breeds. Do your homework and you won’t be sorry. I usually wind up with a dog because it is available at the time. This was the first time that I actually chose the puppy I wanted, and even ordered it before it was born.

To be fair, many people own mixed breeds and love them including me. It is a good deed to save a puppy from the pound or save the dog that is obviously looking for a home. But if you are looking for specific characteristics, consider a pure bred.

Lastly, if you are looking for a purebred, try not to buy from a puppy mill. Puppy mills breed purebred dogs by the dozens. The dogs get little care or socialization. The dog moms are abused. Puppy mills often sell through chain pet shops, the internet and even local classified ads. This is not to say that all chain pet store, classified ads and internet ads are bad. When we purchased our puppy ( I found our puppy on the internet) I chose a breeder as close to home as I could (3 hours). I questioned the breeder as to how many dogs she had to be sure that it was not a large, impersonal operation. I visited the breeder and found out that she socialized each puppy in her home and the puppies even had a chance to be socialized with cats. I wanted to be sure that we had the best chance of buying a great puppy, and we did.

Mitch Endick is a short article writer for the popular pet site: petpages.com www.petpages.com. He provides informative advice on all pets including dogs, puppies, cats, fish, reptiles, birds, ferrets, rabbits, mice and even pet bugs. Petpages.com also has an extensive pet classified ads section.

I have a heart felt passion for helping pets stay healthy. I’ve shared my whole life with dogs and have learned so much from these great creatures. I have 4 fur kids: Tara my 17-year-old Sheltie, Scotty a rescue 3-year-old Sheltie, Riley another 2-year-old rescue Sheltie, and Bob our longhaired rescue cat. We also have fire bellied toads and a bird. Even though I’m a healthy pet nut I know they are animals and they are not treated as people with fur in my home. I respect them as dogs and cats and honor this.

My pets don’t dress up in cute clothes, have fancy beds or their own rooms. They have backpacks for hiking, beds I made for them and they have the whole house. My pets are spoiled with love, affection and get the best care to maintain good health. My pets are family, they are emotionally and physically healthy and so very happy.

I’ve worked at my local humane society and currently care for many dogs and cats at the boarding kennel I manage. Right behind being the best Mom I know how to be I believe my life purpose is to care for animals. I take this very serious. I’m a healthy pet nut.

*I believe in using natural products around and in my pets.

*I believe the food I feed them is a direct link to their health and mental well ness.

*I believe dogs and cats are being over-vaccinated causing more illness and emotional problems.

*I believe there are alternative treatments instead of just drugs.

*I believe drugs are needed for some conditions and should be used but not be the first choice.

I have strong feelings about what is best for my dogs and cats and I believe it’s up to me to keep learning. I’m on a life long mission to find the best natural ways to give my pets a healthy, happy, fun and fulfilling life. I owe that much to them because they can’t take care of themselves.
I’ve baked treats for my dogs for many years.

I have more cookbooks for dog treats then people food. I was repulsed by what goes into a bag of treats like by-products, sugar and fillers. I was already feeding my pets a natural premium food when I first heard about this other dog and cat food. I didn’t feel a need to switch until Tara my old dog stopped eating her food.

I tried topping it with more healthy people food and even crumbled the dry food in my blender to make it easier for her to eat. It wasn’t that she didn’t like the food it was her system has become very sensitive and she would be sick for days at a time and just didn’t feel like eating. I started making pancakes for her.

This worked wonderfully, she loved them and never got sick. I mixed fruit in them and gave her supplements but knew she still wasn’t getting good nutrition. When I first tried the new food with her I didn’t think she would be able to handle it because of her sensitive stomach. I started adding it on her pancakes and when she did okay I gradually added more dog food and less pancakes. Now I rotate pancakes with dog food. I found because the Flint River Ranch dog food is baked she can chew it easier than the extruded kind. I still make pancakes for her breakfast everyday because she is over 17-years-old and deserves to be treated like royalty. Her favorite pancake is Strawberry-Banana.

The boys, Scotty and Riley will eat anything so the taste test means nothing with them at least that’s what I thought. I mixed the Fish & Chips formula with their other food and watched them pick out the fish flavor first. I don’t have any amazing results with the boys because they were already healthy and fit.

I did notice small things like their coats were shinier, less shedding, no itching, they didn’t have much doggy odor and my pooper-scooper chores weren’t such a chore anymore. I was able to feed less, this was a surprise because I was already feeding a natural premium diet. I rotate between the Lamb and Fish for them. I believe dogs need variety just like we do and they appreciate a different taste.

Do you know anyone who might like to know about a healthy natural food like this?

Robin Plan
healthypetnut.com/ Healthy Pet Nut

Dogs are wonderful companions for almost every type of person. They cheer you up with their antics, they try to comfort you when you’re down and they are the best protectors one could ever ask for. Although some are a bit mischievous, you can’t help but love them and cherish them.

But dogs are not all peaches and cream, you know. They do not always behave the way you want them to. That is why it is important to know the unwanted side of dogs first before thinking of purchasing one, or taking care of one.

Inside the House:

When not house trained or house broken, as dog trainers call it, dogs can wreck havoc inside your homes. They pee on everything, they can soil your rugs and couches and, the worst thing of all is they poop on the floor and leave you to clean up after them. Some dogs chew on furniture, some chew your precious leather bags and shoes, some pee on your books and important papers, and others eat up your child’s assignments—this excuse is sometimes true, you know! Other dogs with long furs can shed them on your clothes, the couch, the bed and even the rugs. These can cause problems like allergic reactions on some people. Having dog fur all over your sofa also is not a pretty sight, right?

To help eliminate problems inside the house, it is important that you house train your dog first before allowing him to roam around the house. You can enroll your dog to a dog training facility, or you can read up on the internet some tips on how to house break your dog. Make sure that you and other family members know how to train the dog around the house. This helps eliminate confusing the dog on the rules of training and will make things easier for him. The important thing to house training is to be firm, kind and consistent.

Outside the House:

Some dogs are just too bored when cooped up all day inside the backyard. They long to go out and explore the world, a.k.a. your neighborhood. They long to run free and run as long as they want. Nothing is more enjoyable to a dog than an uncontrolled run around the vicinity. This is another unwanted side of the dog outside the house—his innate need to roam around the neighborhood and chase after cars, bicycles and other vehicles. This unwanted characteristic poses danger to your dog, your neighborhood and eventually to yourself.

To counter the dog’s roaming, make sure that he never runs out of things to do inside the backyard. You can invest on toys to keep him interested. Fencing your backyard is also an alternative.

One thing is for sure, though. No matter what type of dog you have, it’s a sure thing that you would love it even though it might not be house trained yet, or has a tendency to roam. The unwanted characteristics can easily be dealt with, believe me.

You can find out more about 1800bestbuy.com/dog.php dog care here or you can share your opinions at theworldsbesthomepage.com the world’s best homepage.

The National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors is currently one of the, if not the only known, certified dog training organization. It has an extremely extensive process of evaluation, and does not give certificates away to anyone that walks into one of their courses off the street, it only issues certificates to people they deem fit for the role, and that have enough experience to pass on guidance and advice correctly. Passing their tough course and been issued with the NADOI certification will definitely contribute to your future success in dog training others, but this option is not available to fresh instructors.

There are numerous qualities and advantages that will determine whether or not you will become a good dog trainer. Firstly a love for dogs will go a long way, and it goes without saying, if you try to achieve certification and do not have a passion for the animals then simply do not bother wasting your time of the national association of dog obedience trainers time either. Knowing your love for dogs, you need a good level of communication with fellow dog owners and the general public, as not only are you dog training you are also training the dog owner, so they can put it into practice outside of lessons.

The majority of time spent obedience training is spent with the owner and training people, as it is essential that they know how to train their dog, and put it in all the correct actions at an early stage, so their dog knows what is right or wrong from an early stage, otherwise the dog will never know the difference. Therefore the two main essentials are people skills and of course the love for dogs. Been able to understand people is a must as instructors will be faced with many difficult situations, and good communication will go a long way in helping both the owner and the dog.

Of course there are stacks of private abc-dogtraining.info dog training academies around, but none are certified like the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors, and this is the only academy recognized by dog trainers and vets throughout the USA.

More information on Dog Training can be found at the author’s website at abc-dogtraining.info abc-dogtraining.info

Scratching is a common symptom in dogs, and a whole range of underlying causes can be responsible. If your dog is scratching, it is advisable to seek treatment as soon as possible, as self trauma can cause secondary injuries that may extend the duration, and cost, of treatment. So, if you have noticed your dog scratching, what should you do about it?

Firstly, ask yourself when was the last time I put anti-flea medication on him/her? Most spot-on flea products only provide protection for a month, so if it has been longer than this then you should re-apply the medication. Be aware that anti-flea products that are on sale in supermarkets and pet shops are general sales list products, and are not as effective as the products available from your veterinarian. However, Frontline? has recently been made available on general sale and so can be purchased without a prescription.

If flea treatment is up to date, with a reputable product, the next step is to rule out mites. Most anti-flea products do not kill mites. The most common type of mite infection in dogs is sarcoptic mange, also known as scabies. This mite causes an intensely itchy dermatitis that can also be transmitted to humans. It is often spread by foxes, so if you have many foxes in your area, this is one to be especially aware of. This is one you have to approach your veterinarian for. Scabies is diagnosed either by doing skin scrapes (using a scalpel blade to scrape debris from one of the affected areas, placing it on a microscope slide, staining it and examining it under a microscope) or via a blood test. Many vets though will choose to simply apply the appropriate drug and if the itchiness stops, a presumptive diagnosis is made. If your dog does have scabies, your vet might give a one off steroid injection to alleviate the itchiness in the short term until the anti-parasitic drug kicks in.

If external parasites have been ruled out, the next step is to rule out a bacterial infection, a yeast infection or ringworm. Of these, only ringworm is potentially transmissible to humans. Ringworm is not actually a worm, but a type of fungus. It is usually tested for by examining the affected area with an ultraviolet light, which causes a certain type of ringworm spore to glow green. If ringworm is diagnosed, your vet will dispense either oral or topical medication to cure it. Bacterial infections are treated with a 2-3 week course of antibiotics, whereas yeast infections are usually treated with a medicated shampoo.

If parasites, bacteria, yeasts and ringworm have all been ruled out then your pet probably has an allergy. This could be a food allergy, a contact allergy or an environmental (e.g. pollen) allergy. For further information on allergies in dogs, see my next article: “The Itchy Dog: is it an Allergy?”

Dr David Brooks is part of the online veterinary team at whydoesmypet.com” target=”_blank WhyDoesMyPet.com. Veterinarians, Vet Technicians, Nurses, Trainers, Behaviorists, Breeders and Pet Enthusiasts are here to answer your pet questions and concerns…
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Barking… It’s part of owning a dog. But it doesn’t take long before a dog’s bark becomes annoying and disruptive to others. So, for some people, a bark collar is an option for them to purchase to end the incessant barking. Dogs bark for all kinds of reasons, whether it’s for fear, to get some attention, being protective of their home or owner… In any of these scenarios a bark collar can be used to keep your canine from barking. You may want to seriously consider a bark collar if you have neighbors close by or if your dog’s barking is scaring your or the neighborhood kids. Not to mention the fact that many feel safer when they see a bark collar on the dog as they are walking by and such, since many people get “scared” or nervous around animals, particularly barking dogs.

There are a couple of options when choosing a bark collar. One is the citronella collar and the other is the traditional shock collar. The citronella collar is a more humane and safe way to prevent a dog from barking (in my opinion). In case you are wondering, this type of a collar sprays a light spray of citronella when a dog barks, that goes right in front of a dog’s nose. This prevents the dogs from barking since they generally dislike the citronella scent as well as the hissing noise that the bark collar makes when they bark. It doesn’t take long for dogs to figure out that it’s letting out this scent when they start barking… which, in turn reduces the barking. These collars have been shown to be twice as effective in reducing barking, as opposed to the other alternative, the shock collar. In any event, there are several types of these citronella collars on the market these days so be sure you choose carefully. Now the shock collar is in my opinion a way more aggressive approach in quieting your canine from barking. The concept behind the shock collar is essentially the same as the citronella collar, except that instead of spraying citronella, it gives your dog an electric shock! Obviously it takes no time before the dog learns to stop their barking since it gives them a painful jolt and many feel this is an inhumane handling of your canine. Still, some opt to use a shock collar over the alternative even though they have shown to be less effective than a citronella collar. Also, some shock collars are made so that the intensity of the shock increases the more the dog barks.

So choose wisely, since your decision will greatly impact the way your dog feels. The worst case scenario for any dog would be a surgery for debarking. This is generally frowned upon by veterinarians and they discourage this type of action. So, if your dog has a barking problem, the better choice would be to go with a citronella collar to help quiet your best friend in the most humane way possible.

Steven Resell is a successful Webmaster and Publisher of UrbanDogz.com. He provides more information and details on dog training, dog collars and ways to choose an appropriate urbandogz.com/ bark collar for your dog on his website.