Posts from — November 2005
How To Stop Your Horse From Rearing And What To Do If He Does It Unexpectedly
There is a dangerous problem that horse owners should be very aware of. It’s when a horse stands up on his back legs. It’s called “rearing.” This problem can be quite dangerous and cause severe injuries to the rider and/or horse.
Rearing is perhaps a horse’s most effective defense against the rider. It is dangerous in that the horse can fall over backward onto its rider. Because of a horse’s enormous weight this can cripple and even kill the rider. Thus, it is good to know why, if possible, a horse rears. But even more importantly, how to stop it.
If your horse ever does rear with you on him, there isn’t much you can do. If he rears suddenly, he could lose his balance and fall or he could rear so explosively that he can throw himself back to the ground with the rider under him. If you’re on him while this is happening and you use the reins to pull on to keep from falling, you’re likely to pull the horse over.
Although it’s not one hundred percent infallible, the best way to protect yourself when a horse rears with you is to lean forward immediately and put your hands forward so you have loose reins. If you have to, you could even put your arms around his neck, let go of the reins and slide off. For my money, there aren’t any other safer ways to deal with a horse if he suddenly rears.
Why do horses rear? There are several reasons why. Here are some examples.
I’ve read where a rider was on an obedient horse while trail riding. They came upon cows and it scared the horse because the horse was not used to cows. The rider tried to get the horse to go toward the cows to get it to learn that cows are not spooky. The horse obeyed and went forward but finally became so frightened that it reared up, lost balance, and fell on its rider. The rider suffered numerous broken bones.
The rider later understood the horse felt trapped. The horse obediently went forward even though it was frightened. As it got closer, fear overpowered the horse and it had nowhere to go but up.
Some horses rear because as colts they were too young to be ridden. Another reason rearing happens is because training may confuse the horse. The horse may be asked to do too much at one time and not know what to do.
Sometimes a horse will rear if it is forced to yield to the bit. Other horses may rear if you try to get them to put out more energy than they can. On the opposite end, some horses may rear because they want to go and you don’t let them.
So how do you stop a horse from rearing?
First, let’s take a look at the anatomy of a horse while it rears. A horse cannot rear while running. A horse must stop (or be barely moving) to be able to rear. If a rider has had enough experience on a horse he can feel when the horse gets light in the front. In a way, it would be a bit like sitting in the middle of a teeter-totter where you can feel one side getting light.
So, if a horse has to stop to rear up then it makes sense to keep the horse moving so it cannot rear up. Thus, if you feel your horse getting light in the front then you move him forward and do it with meaning. Not just a patient “cluck” from your mouth. Do it like you mean it. And it’s also important he has a place to go forward – don’t have him blocked in by anything.
If your horse rears up and you weren’t ready for it then lean forward and give your horse loose reins. As soon as your horse’s feet are almost back to the ground then make your horse go forward. Let the horse know, with no doubt whatsoever, to go forward. Boot the horse “hard” into going forward. When your horse has gone forward a little ways then double him and drive him forward out of the double. Then double him the other way and drive him forward from it also. Then bring your horse to a stop.
What does it mean to “double” your horse? Essentially, you will pull his head back one way towards his hind quarters. The moment he is committed to the turn then boot him forward. This impresses upon your horses mind that you can control him.
Other so-called “schools of thought” to stop rearing are to hit a horse over the head with a two-by-four when he rears up. I’ve even read where people break beer bottles over the horse’s head. Some people use the handle end of a riding crop. Not only are these inhumane ways to stop rearing, they are rarely, if ever, effective. They don’t teach a horse anything except to fear the rider. Hitting a horse over the head when you are trying to build a trust relationship will destroy all you’ve worked for.
As is almost always the case, the best way to get a horse to do what you want is to use psychology of the horse. Get him to move and you can accomplish miracles.
About The Author
Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at horsetrainingandtips.com” target=”_new www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training methods which can be seen at horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm” target=”_new www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.
November 30, 2005 No Comments
Your Cat’s Life Is At Stake Pick The Right Cat Collar For Your Cat
Finding the Ideal Cat Collar
If your cat goes outside it’s a really good idea to use a collar. It lets other people know that the cat has a home, and if your cat should stray or get lost then the contact details on the collar will have you re-united with your cat in no time.
Deciding what cat collar to buy can be a more difficult choice than you think. Do you go with a flea control collar, a reflective collar, an elasticated collar, a buckle-on collar, or no collar at all.
Do flea collars really work? My experience has been that they don’t, but they don’t hurt either, so we can look at form and fit. Fit is the most important consideration when buying a cat collar. If the collar is too tight it can cut off the cat’s air and blood supply. Choking your cat is not a good thing!! If it’s too loose the collar can get caught up on branches and fences while your cat is out playing. Cats have an uncanny knack of getting out of any collar that’s too loose. For kittens and still growing cats you’ll want an adjustable collar to allow for some growth, but make sure you check the fit on a regular basis.
Most collars have 2 methods of fastening around the cat’s neck. You have the traditional buckle style which is easy to put on and take off but the buckle can break. Then there is the slide through adjustable kind. This is a more secure way of fastening but it’s also more difficult to adjust, especially if you have a cat that doesn’t like having a collar on.
Most cat collars come with an elasticated or a breakaway section. This is a safety feature that allows your cat to escape the collar if it becomes stuck on bushes or fences. It helps avoid strangulation as well as being trapped. Even though a smart cat can figure out how to escape its collar, this is an important safety feature that you should seriously consider. Along these lines, buy a collar made of a material that can be easily cut through in emergencies.
Another feature you may consider is a reflective strip in the cat collar. This can be helpful at night, especially in areas that have a lot of traffic. The number one killer of cats is traffic, so give the driver every chance to see your cat, especially if it’s a dark colored cat.
Many collars come with bells or some other noise making device. This is designed to warn potential prey animals that your cat is out hunting. The idea behind these is to avoid your cat bringing home gifts and presents, especially ones that are still alive!! In the main these devices are ineffective and its usually best to remove them so there’s less to get caught up in bushes and fences.
If you have an indoor cat that you’d like to introduce to the great outdoors, try buying a cat harness and attach a leash. You should first practice with this indoors until the cat becomes accustomed to it. The next step – take the cat for walks; to the park, to the beach, or to Aunty Jane’s house! You can train your cat to use the leash but it will take some time, practice, and a lot of patience.
Mary Amos is a cat lover and long time cat owner. Find more articles and resources for your cat or kitten at
November 30, 2005 No Comments
Training Your Hyperactive Cat
You walk in your home after being gone for a short time, or all day from work and your cat has taken over the house. The drapes are hanging not where they should be, a cup was tipped over with the last few drops of coffee that has left a stain in the carpet.
The morning paper, which you were unable to finish reading, is torn in shreds. Now is the time to put a stop to all of that and train your cat. When you get home at night after work or gone for a short time, you can come home to a nice quiet, clean home and a healthily content cat.
Do not start by scolding your cat for all the mischief they gotten into while you where gone. A cat cannot remember that far back. Do not reward your cat for the wrong behaviors. Also, do not go running after the cat, this leads them to think you are playing with them and that is what they are looking for. Catching them in the act of doing these things is a good time to let your cat know that is not acceptable to do that.
Rewarding your cat when they have the good behavior is the best time. Sometimes if you have a real big problem with your cats’ attitude, there are other options. You can purchase a kennel to put your cat in there for short periods. On the other hand, even get them a kitty psychiatrist to start addressing their bad behaviors.
Starts when getting home spend some time with your cat relaxing. Cats can also help us to relax; it is known that a cat could help lower our blood pressure. Massaging your cat is another way of showing them you do care about them and helps them to relax, by knowing you will take good care of them.
A cat that is bored or lonely will have a tendency to do things when you are gone. Make a safe and happy environment when you are gone for your cat. Their special toys, strings items they play with. A ball, a scratching tree to climb on, an empty box of some type so they have a place to hide and play with. Your cat can do many things while you are gone and not destroy your home. Make them a perch somewhere near a window to have a place to look out, watch for you and to sunbathe.
When teaching the cat the right behaviors you will need to help them with this. Cats will not exercise themselves. Take time out each day and play with you cat. Teaching your cat how to play with the toys and item that you give them. Rewarding your cat for good behaviors, with a healthy treat or special toy or just a simple massage will also be rewarding for a cat.
A healthy cat can learn good behaviors; this is why it is important for regular visits to the veterinarian. Cats require shots, and healthy food for them. A cat that is lazy and fat is not a healthy cat. Cats will not behave well for you and will be almost impossible to train. It is important to feed healthy foods and snacks to your cat. This will help continue to build healthy bone and muscles for playtime and continue to let the brain develop so that training comes easier as you go.
There are natural supplements that are not a drug that which can be given to the cat to help with its fears and aggressions control. Older cats are harder to train for new behaviors then kittens are. When they are young, they are not sure what is right and wrong. Kittens are born with some instincts that are not good behaviors. Kittens have a tendency to be more playful and will get into more things. This is why it is very important to start your cat at very young age to teach them good behaviors, and keep them from having bad ones.
Remember when your cat is running in circles, or having a bad day. Don’t do as the cat does. Relax yourself and your cat.
I would love to share my secrets with you and my new special articles on cat training do just that! Everything you need to know to train your cat is included in these special reports: See our section on Cat Breeds. All reports are available from my new ebooks-marketplace.com/cats/index.html cat
training articles site
November 30, 2005 No Comments
Leo The Cat Is At It Again
I was asleep last night, and for some reason when I rolled over in bed, I opened my eyes for just a second. There on the wall, right above my dresser, was an angel, well, not really an angel, but an image of one.
It seemed to float on the wall, green in color, and it you looked long and hard enough, you really could make out the image of an angel!
I reached over to wake Pam up. She sleepily asked what I wanted.
“Look” I told her, “look on the wall!” I turned around to tell her about the image, shaking her some more.
“Pam, look. See what is over there?” But I could not seem to wake her.
Turning back, I just stared at the angel. maybe my luck is changing! Maybe I really go have a guardian angel that looks out for me, maybe I ….
Suddenly I let out a scream!
This giant hand appeared over the angel, claws extended, and ripped the poor thing apart!
I started shaking uncontrollably and I could not get a grip on myself. Of course, this woke up Pam who by now was sitting up in the bed.
“What going on?” she asks. And in the back ground I hear Leo laughing!
“What’s so funny”, I asked him?
“You Jurge, you are! What a moron … angels, ha!”
“Ok little buddy, how do you explain it?”
Then Leo suddenly pointed back to the wall, “Look on the wall Jurge, lookie.”
Turning around, I looked, and there was not a shape of a pumpkin! It was blue! “WOW” I said, What is going on?
Leo: “I am just trying to brighten up Miss Pam’s holiday! That’s not a pumpkin, that’s … look you moron, look at the wall!”
There is was again! The big claw reaching out, getting nearer to the pumpkin until it reached it and destroyed it!
I started shaking and Leo started laughing!
Leo: “Lookie Jurge, you seem to have some common sense about you. If you want to find out what is happening, look at the bedroom window!”
I did, and what did I see?
Miss Kitty, hanging upside down by her two back feet, with a piece of cellophane in her claw!
She was trying to stick it onto the window! When she finally made it, the light shining through from the street lamp projected an red glow onto the wall.
Leo: “What is that Jurge, a giant hooter? A dog? An image of ‘The Donald”, naked?
“What are you doing, Miss Kitty” I asked as I opened the window and pulled her inside from the cold.
Miss K: “Leo told me that you were too cheap to buy Christmas decorations. He told me that Miss Pam sit silently outside every day, waiting at the mailbox for the Christmas cards that never come, so she can tape them up to the door in the shape of a tree. Leo says that Miss Pam can have her own Christmas lights on the wall that change colors if I take the colored cellophane and place it onto the window for 15 minutes, then remove it and replace it with a different color cellophane.”
Leo: “Yea Jurge, you cheap moron, treating Miss Pam that way, not spending any money this Christmas, not caring for her feelings, snoring at night, leaving dirty socks in the bathroom, not putting the toilet seat down … you, you ,yoo.. grrrrrrrrrr.”
At this point, Pam was just sitting up in bed, snickering, trying to hold back a laugh! As for me, I just kept my mouth shut and took it. I could not tell my little buddy that he had spent all of my Christmas money while charging his United Airlines vacation, so I just took it. His heart was in the right place, it’s just that his mind is muddled! Anyway … Happy Holidays To All From Leo, Jurge, Miss Pam and Miss Kitty!
You can find more Leo at lifewithleo.com lifewithleo.com where all of the adventires of Leo come to life!
November 30, 2005 No Comments
Pet Adoption – Important Information You Need To Know
Pet Adoption: What a wonderful experience! Regardless of the type of pet, there are some simple guidelines about having pets that range from common sense suggestions about care and feeding, to things you might not consider, such as how pets impact your relationships, finances, or health. If other animals live in the house, it’s important to make sure that proper hierarchy is observed.
How does one get their new adopted pet to join a family and new people? Most individuals or families DO view their pets as a member of the family. Beyond the basic obedience classes for adopted pets, some areas offer “Four-legged Babies”(sometimes called Pets and Babies) classes, designed for expectant couples who want to help their “dog babies” and/or “cat babies” accept their new human baby siblings.
More and more people want to have pets, but there are many people who can not provide the right environment and the right nutrients for the animal. Please don’t misunderstand, mainstream care does have its place but it should not be the only choice people and their pets have.
Your new adopted pet may be insecure and more prone to misbehaving during the first few days in a new environment. Do you and others in your family have the needed patience to help your new adopted pet trough this time of adjustment?
Until relatively recently pet health was always approached by waiting for signs and symptoms of disease to occur, and then to counter them with toxic drugs which would either mask or knock out the symptoms. This naturally means vet bills. This is another serious consideration as you explore the possibility of pet adoption. For more information go to: adopt-a-pet.info/” target=”_blank adopt-a-pet.info
I am a true animal lover! So as you think about pet adoption, whether it be a dog, cat, guinea pig, bird, horse, (etc) do your best to give serious thought to this new endeavor. In the end, you and the new pet that you adopted will know the right decision was made! ~ Ms.CiCi
Ms.CiCi is an accomplished author and world traveler. Her writings expose her wealth of ’secret information’ so derived from her travels as well as drawing from her own personal wealth of wisdom. A great lover of nature, a visit to her website is a true delight:
CiCi-Online.Com CiCi-Online.Com
Ms. CiCi, has a gift of teaching, is an accomplished author and world traveler who enjoys sharing her life’s experiences with others, making their life, their world a bit easier. Her writings expose her wealth of “secret information” so derived from her travels as well as drawing from her own personal wealth of wisdom. A great lover of nature, a visit to her website is a true delight. CiCi-Online.Com CiCi-Online.Com
November 29, 2005 No Comments
The Attitude of a Toy Breed
Does your little toy dog know who is in charge? Or do they think they are in charge? Some people are not bothered that their little toy dog seems to run the household and may mistakenly call this being “spoiled.” A better description would be lack of training or failure to set limits. The life of a little dog can become dangerous without some official “human” rules.
Dogs have excellent ability, senses and ways of communicating with us. They do need to learn the limits of living in our human society without allowing them to be “little people” who can just do as they please. Dogs are like children. They feel more secure and understand how they fit into the world around them when rules and limits are set for them.
Because small dogs are less dangerous and are capable of doing less harm, aggressiveness is often overlooked and uncorrected. People often put up with a small dog’s aggressiveness. However, all dogs are much more enjoyable when they are well mannered. A toy dog with good manners is an ideal companion. Teaching good manners to your small dog will allow him to be welcome everywhere he goes.
Obedience commands are the ideal way to teach small dog manners and prevent or correct problems. The first thing any dog or puppy should hear when he is headed for trouble is a stern “NO!” He must learn this word means to stop immediately whatever naughty thing he is doing. That “NO” should always gains his immediate attention. Remember to praise him when he does the right thing.
For a puppy to remain safe he needs to learn four or five commands. Teaching him the command “Wait” will keep him from jumping out in front of a car. Sit, Stay and Come are the other important commands to teach your toy puppy for his own safety. The commands of “Leave it” and “Out” are also important commands for the curious toy puppy. Begin training your toy puppy as soon as he has settled into his new home. Buy a good training book especially for the toy puppy and look for the gentle training methods. Even better is training classes with a professional trainer. Definitely learn whether or not the trainer has ever worked with toy breed dogs and puppies.
A toy puppy should also be taught to lie on his side at a very young age. This training is especially valuable for the toy breeds that have a lot of hair and will require regular brushing.
Even though your toy breed puppy is very small, and quite easily to pick up, and carry around, train him to wear a collar and leash as soon as possible.
Connie Limon raises Shih Tzu Puppies. Buy Designer Dog Clothes and accessories made especially for any toy breed dog are offered at: littleguysdogclothesshop.com littleguysdogclothesshop.com
November 29, 2005 No Comments
An Accounting of Love
It was a late September afternoon and Gerald was driving down a country road that took him through vineyards. Due to roadwork on the main thoroughfare traffic had been detoured.
His job took him all over the valley and today he had spent a good portion of his day behind the wheel. Down between two rows of grapevines something brownish-red caught his eye. Gerald slowed the car to a stop.
With a hobbling gait, a tiny animal made its way toward Gerald’s car. Gerald opened his door and stepped out onto the dirt shoulder. The small animal kept advancing—its head tilted at an odd angle. As the creature drew closer, Gerald wondered how the animal could stand, let alone walk—it was nothing but fur, skin, and bones.
Gerald knelt down, keeping still, until the small dog took a few more halting steps, then as if surrendering, the little fur boy collapsed at Gerald’s feet. He was so frail looking Gerald hesitated to touch him. It was when the red dog turned his head up to peer at Gerald, that Gerald lost all his careful inhibition.
One of the young dog’s eyes was totally destroyed. From his clear eye, the little dog studied him. He looked so sad it nearly broke Gerald’s heart.
With eyes misting, Gerald gently scooped the fur boy up. “How have you made it this far?” he muttered before settling the little guy on the passenger seat of his car.
He drove to the vet he used for his senior Airedale Terrier, Chauncey. The vet, in examining the dog said, “He must be in a lot of pain with that ruined eye. The injury has been left too long untreated.”
The vet looked at Gerald, “I’ll do all that I can to make him well.”
Gerald nodded and left the office.
~*~
Three days later Gerald brought the furry patient home. He had an e-collar on to prevent him from scratching at the stitches that kept his eyelids shut. The infected, damaged eye had been removed.
Gerald held the little boy; stroking him tenderly. The twinkle in the dog’s remaining eye and his expression of thankful joy touched something deep in Gerald’s soul. He decided to keep him, but he needed to see how his older dog would get along with the newcomer.
As it turned out the elder dog would have nothing to do with the small red dog and there had been a couple episodes where the Airedale had physically threatened him. Gerald and his wife were devastated—they had both come to love their little warrior.
So, Gerald called the lady who ran a no-kill shelter in the next county and asked if she might accept a one-eyed little dog, with a big heart. She agreed readily after Gerald explained the circumstances. He added the he’d like to come by every other Friday to pick the dog up and take him home for weekend visits. It was Gerald’s hope that their Airedale would have a change of heart and grow to accept the dog as a friend.
~*~
One week Gerald got a call from the lady at the no-kill shelter, to tell him it looked like his little rescue had found a forever home. Gerald knew the time might come when the dog, which he had never named for fear of becoming too attached, would be noticed by a loving human and taken home.
Gerald’s insides twisted painfully, this was the weekend he was to have picked the fur boy up for another try at Gerald’s house.
“May I come see him, one last time?” he said.
“Of course!”
Within half an hour he was at the shelter. The lady was waiting for him, the small dog in her arms. She handed him over and the dog’s tail wagged furiously as Gerald held him lovingly. Then the furry fellow showered Gerald with kisses.
Gerald hugged him tightly and murmured words of affection. He walked out to a side yard so he could be alone with the now-healthy fur ball, whose life he had saved. But, in saving his life, he had lost his heart to the brave little warrior with the huge loving spirit.
Before he left, the lady assured him the red dog was going to a loving home. He nodded, thanked her and drove away.
It was hard for the lady to tell him about the new home the dog was going to. Difficult talking to a man whose heart was breaking. Hard not to cry when she looked into his eyes brimming with tears.
Later that afternoon a woman came to collect her new family member. She had been told the story about the little dog. And, after she arrived at the shelter the lady told her about the man’s last visit.
In his medical files, Gerald had left a letter describing how he had come to know and love the little dog. Included in the letter was his phone number.
That night, with the phone cradled at her shoulder, she told Gerald all about the red dog’s new home. She told him she had named the furry boy, Furgus…
…And Gerald smiled.
~**~**~
Copyright 2006 Kathy Pippig Harris
Kathy lives in Central California’s San Joaquin Valley with her husband and furry family. She is a weekly columnist for the publication “Frank Talk” and a published author of five novels. She states, “Were it not for her need, desire, and love of writing — she would surely go mad!”
November 29, 2005 No Comments
Easy Tricks to Medicating Your Cat
Many pet owners dread these words, “Give your cat one of these pills twice a day.” Any pet owner knows the frustration of forcing a pill down the throat of a cat who does not feel well and who is not a willing participant. Before you don your protective armour to medicate your cat, try these easy tricks to get your kitty to take medicine.
Pet owners can agree that giving a cat medicine is not their favourite job in the world. Many times, you end up with bite marks or bleeding from little claws. There are some easy ways to medicate your cat that will help you administer the medication. Giving your cat medicine properly can also help reduce stress in your cat.
If you are giving your cat a pill, there are a few tricks to remember. Following these simple and easy tips will help make medicine time for you and your cat a breeze.
Oral Pills and Drops: The first thing to do is to follow your vet’s instructions. Most oral medications should be given with food or water. Make sure that your kitty has access to both of these immediately following. The next thing to remember is that a cat that is not stressed will be easier to medicate. Try to give your cat his or her medicine when he or she is relaxed. Do not make medicine time a chasing game. If your cat knows what is coming, he or she is likely to run or hide. Comfort your kitty by giving loving pats and by sitting in a quiet room. If you have to do it alone, cradle your cat under one arm and take the other hand and gently press the sides of your cat’s mouth with your thumb and forefinger. Make sure your cat’s head is tilted up slightly. Drop the pill into the back of the mouth and promptly shut your cat’s mouth. You must remember to hold your cat’s mouth closed until the pill is swallowed. Be very careful not to block your cat’s nose when doing this. Sometimes a cat will throw pills up after being medicated. If you find a soggy pill on the floor, it will be necessary to give your cat another pill.
Oral drops are often much easier to give your cat than pills. If your cat requires antibiotics request that your cat is prescribed the drops instead of the pill form. Most cats like the flavour of drops. Vitamins and antibiotics can both be given in liquid form. When you are giving your cat liquid medication, it is very important to use the dropper given with the prescription. This ensures that the proper dosage is given. You will need to give your cat the medicine in much the same way as the pills. Hold your cat under one arm and open the mouth with one finger on each side of the mouth. As soon as you put the drops in, close the mouth and hold shut until the cat swallows.
Some pills can be given inside of food such as canned food or hidden inside a piece of meat. It is not recommended to give cats their medication in their water because if they do not drink all of the water, then they are not getting the proper dosage. Also, pills can make the water taste strange to the cat and could lead to dehydration. Another tip is to crush a pill into smaller pieces and mix with meat flavoured baby food or tuna. Most cats will eat this and not even notice they are getting medicine.
Injections: If you cat requires daily injections of medication at home, such as insulin, it is very important to follow a schedule. Cats with diabetes usually need two injections twelve hours a part. When giving your cat insulin, remember to not shake the vial. Roll the vial in your hands very gently to mix. When you are ready to give your cat the injection, place your cat on a comfortable surface and have your cat lie down. Gently pull the skin up at the back of the neck. This is the perfect place for injections because cats usually are not bothered by the shot. Insulin needles are very thin so you will not need to push the syringe in very far. After giving your cat injections a few times, it will become easier on you and your cat.
For more information on caring for your Cat check out Paul’s site at basic-cat-care.co.uk basic-cat-care.co.uk
November 29, 2005 No Comments
What Every Dog Owner Should Know About Canine Hip Dysplasia
Ask any veterinarian what is the hardest and most frustrating dog disease there is and most of them are certain to answer, “canine hip dysplasia.” Canine hip dysplasia or CHD is a condition wherein the dog’s thigh bone does not properly fit into the hip socket. In this scenario, the cartilage becomes damaged, the joint slowly gets destroyed, and the dog experiences pain and swelling in the affected area. Hip dysplasia in dogs is not the same as hip arthritis. However, dog hip dysplasia is one cause of hip arthritis in dogs.
* Canine Hip Dysplasia Can Be Inherited
Some experts believe that canine hip dysplasia is a genetic disease. If an adult dog has dog hip dysplasia, it will pass the disease on to its offspring. To prevent hip dysplasia in dogs from spreading, the only solution is to not breed dogs that have the disease. The solution sounds very simple and straightforwards, but it can be a challenge to actually do it because the symptoms of canine hip dysplasia are not easy to identify in dogs. In fact, there are dogs that do have canine hip dysplasia but the symptoms are not visible until it is too late or the dogs have already been bred. In addition, dogs that are perfectly normal can have the gene for canine hip dysplasia, and they are bred, which causes the disease to be passed on.
* Symptoms of Canine Hip Dysplasia
Usually, dogs with CHD appears lethargic and do not move around much. They often have a hard time getting up when they are sitting, have lameness in the back of their legs, and dislike going up the stairs. Dogs with CHD also tend to hop like a rabbit when they are running. The symptoms of canine hip dysplasia generally don’t show themselves until dogs are in their middle age. However, there have been cases when dogs as young as five or six months exhibited the symptoms of canine hip dysplasia.
* Diagnosing Hip Dysplasia in Dogs
Currently, it is still not possible to determine if a dog is carrying the dog hip dysplasia gene or not. Canine hip dysplasia cannot be determined by a blood test or genetic test. Instead, veterinarians are able to diagnose the condition by physically examining the dog and taking x-rays routinely. X-rays help veterinarians assess how far along the disease is and how effective the treatment is helping.
Dogs with hip dysplasia can be x-rayed using two techniques: the hip-extended ventrodorsal view x-ray, and the PennHIP radiography technique. The hip-extended ventrodorsal view x-ray gives the veterinarian a frontal view of the hip-joints and pelvis, providing the veterinarian the best view as to how severe the condition is. PennHIP radiography is an x-ray technique that is often used to see if there are any hip looseness in dogs.
* Treatment Options for Hip Dysplasia in Dogs
Unfortunately, canine hip dysplasia is not yet a curable disease. However, dogs diagnosed with hip dysplasia have non-surgical treatment options available to them in order to relieve them of the symptoms of canine hip dysplasia. One non-surgical treatment option is the use of pain and anti-inflammation medications. Some of the CHD drugs include Deramaxx, Ectogesic and Rimadyl. These drugs have been found to be effective at relieving dogs of pain and inflammation, enabling them to live normal lives. Other non-surgical treatment options include physical therapy, controlled exercise and weight loss programs.
If the non-surgical treatment options are not adequate, surgery is the only other treatment option. With surgery, the malformed joint can be corrected, thus eliminating the cause of the hip pain. When dealing with hip dysplasia in dogs, there are two ways to approach surgery: prophylactic surgery and therapeutic surgery. Prophylactic surgery is undertaken in order to stop the arthritis and joint problems from progressing. Therapeutic surgery, on the other hand, is undertaken to treat hips that already has arthritis.
Currently, the primary preventive surgical procedure for dogs with hip dysplasia is the triple pelvic osteotomy. In this procedure, the pelvis is cut in three different places and the hip sockets are rotated. This type of surgery is recommended for dogs whose arthritis has not yet set in or joint is not yet damaged.
Pubic symphysiodesis is another preventive surgery that can be done, but only on very young dogs. This type of surgery involves manipulating the pelvis so that it grows in such a way that the hip is connected tighter. The effectiveness of this procedure is still under study.
Total hip replacement and femoral head ostectomy are two types of therapeutic surgeries available for dogs with hip dysplasia. Larger dogs with canine hip dysplasia are often the recipient of total hip replacement. In this procedure, the socket is replaced with a high density medical plastic and a non-corrosive alloy is used as a ball joint. This type of surgery enjoys a high rate of success. Dogs who undergo total hip replacement are able to resume activity and live a normal life that is free of pain.
The femoral head ostectomy, on the other hand, is a type of therapeutic surgery wherein the top of the femur is removed. As a result, the painful grinding that the dog with hip dysplasia experiences at the hip joint is eliminated. The femur is made to freely float, which causes scar tissue to form. This scar tissue then acts as a false joint. Femoral head ostectomy is not advised for dogs with mild cases of arthritis. It is most effective when done on dogs that are smaller and well-muscled.
* Prevention of Canine Hip Dysplasia
Careful breeding is one of the best way to prevent the spread of hip dysplasia in dogs. Dogs who are predisposed to CHP can be helped by controlling their weight while they are still young and making sure the hips do not take on any undue stress. If the onset of canine hip dysplasia cannot be delayed any longer, dog owners can look into dog insurance packages to help cover costs of CHD surgery. In addition, potential dog owners should look for information on breed risk before acquiring puppies. It is best to make sure that puppies being sold have an OFA, PennHip of GDC certification.
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November 28, 2005 No Comments
Beagle: Is it the Breed for You?
The purpose of this article is to improve the public’s knowledge about dogs, the Beagle in particular. Many people decide that they want a dog based off of appearance alone. While this may not be a terrible thing to do if the person has the ability to accommodate all types of dogs, for some individuals the care for specific types of dog breeds is not possible. The best way to avoid any surprises after the adopting or purchase of a dog is to understand the breed and what it takes to care for it. We will go over some of the basic characteristics of the Beagle to help you get a better understanding of the Beagle as a breed and possibly a new addition to your family.
The Beagle is a perfect companion for an active family. They make great members of a team. Though they are a little more difficult to house train than other breeds and not always very interested in learning training commands, the Beagle is a low maintenance, clean dog that will live to a ripe old age. At about 20lbs and 16 inches tall, this super friendly, giving, stubborn, energetic breed is a fantastic family companion.
We hope that we have assisted you I your quest for knowledge and understanding of the Beagle. Please look below for some additional resources. The first thing you will want to do is see what the Beagle looks like. The next thing you will need to do is house train your Beagle. We find that one of the most common reasons that someone will get rid of Beagle’s is that they are not house trained. There is a wonderful manual that can be used and you will find the link below. Lastly we want you to show off your new Beagle. There is a wonderful online dog community complete with a forum for you to post pictures to. Check it out.
The key to success is to love your Beagle and nothing will help you achieve that more than bonding with them. Spend time with your Beagle and make them a happy and healthy addition to your family.
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November 28, 2005 No Comments